Join the discord!

I am trying to fix a recliner for my dad. I just need to get this 90 back into shape and its giving me some troubles. Its a thick metal and also has a rivet holding the pieces together. I am hoping its possible to fix without removing the rivet? Everything i have tried has been unsuccesful. So i am open to any suggestions?

Guy said galvanized welding is basically not more harmless than normal shop dust after welding.

My question is: is it true that galvanized welding is mainly just poisonous in near proximity (time and distance) to the source of heat?

We are clearing half a warehouse, and a weld shop uses the other half of the shop. They weld galvanized sometimes. Is it true that basically due to how far i am working, i basically will suffer no real galvanized poisoning?

Hey all,

Im by far from experienced when it comes to working with different metals.

At my job where we restore classic design furniture i got the challenge of working on a stainless steel product.

I sanded it up until grid 2000 to get all the heavy scratches and damages out. Im polishing with different grids at the moment.

My problem is, I cant get it near the mirror finish that stainless steel has originally.

Am i missing a step or am i doing something wrong?

Thanks in advance!

The welding devices that have been suggested to me support both techniques, mig and mag. I want to weld things like a metal table made of steel, or a little roof. Which technique is suited? I don't know any welding and want to take a course to learn it. But there only seems to be a course for mag welding in my area, not for mig. Does anyone have any ideas why this is the case? Can i do mig welding when i know mag welding?

Thank you in advance and have a nice day!😊

https://preview.redd.it/shrzdu0l5ted1.jpg?width=3002&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ea14033f99bb0013b384345866089ce0ac08714a

I need a simple and cheap way to stop the rust from spreading. I don't care about the looks (it's internal). I don't mind leaving the rusty part as long as the rust stops spreading.

Is it necessary to sand the rusty part or remove it in some way? Is applying only rust convert enough? Should I apply oil to the other parts that are not rusty yet for greater durability? Is just coating the entire metal in oil (even the oxidized part) an option?

Thanks in advance.

hey there,

i want to make a mini internal combustion engine. a 2 cylinder boxer engine to be more specific. now, i’ve done my research and i am confident i can get the job done, but there’s one thing troubling me.

i want to make the pistons out of 2017 DURAL, but i’m not sure about what to do about the cylinders. i know on some small engines the cylinders are made out of bronze and the ID is hard chrome plated and i’ve scoured a few nearby places that do plating, but i haven’t called them as i’m afraid its gonna be hella expensive for this little project of mine… so that leaves me with 3 options:

1. somebody will say it’s not that expensive and i should call them xD

2. i have hard moldmax which is about 35-40hrc (still pales in comparison to a hard chrome plated surface) which might be enough for a small ~1.5cc/block engine

3. i make it out of hardened steel if above 60hrc is absolutely a necessity

what should i do guys?

(For a personal sculpture project)

Overlapping circles with a cylindrical pipe down the middle. Ideally so it could slide into a pole. Preferably tennis ball - baseball sized.

Very similar to an agitator blade or mixing blade but I can’t find any that are circular bladed.

Thank you so much , any ideas appreciated

My mother in law somehow managed to break this beautiful antique brass & marble table that she has. I love this table and they're very expensive, so replacing it isn't going to happen. Is there any way this can be repaired? I'm not worried so much about the cosmetics, but rather the cost and being able to do this myself. It's real marble so the top is probably at least 30-40lbs. (Picture is not mine, but for reference with the area hers broke at circled)

I want to make some lengths of 1mm mild steel sheet that are bent up such that this is the cross-section.

I have a brake, basic hand tools, and a 6" vise.

Any ideas?

Finished the first section of this fence up! Forged this from railroad spikes that I found!Working on making several sections of it to line my garden!

Hello

I'm in need of a small spring snap? Kayak clip? I don't know how it's called but it's this thing here:

https://preview.redd.it/cbe06twpqned1.png?width=328&format=png&auto=webp&s=a098c9195fc05da49f51ce66fa4192f35c3513db

I bought this one but it's too freaking big for what I'm making, and I couldn't find smaller ones anywhere, so I guess it's up to me to make one. The probem is, I can't even find a material for the spring part. Then it dawned on me that I once I saw a video on YT where someone made a spring for OTF knife from an old hacksaw blade. I don't know how much of it is true but my idea is like this:

1. Anneal the blade and let it cool. After that make the pin hole bigger if needed. Grind off the saw teeth.

Sorry for bad art ^^;

2. Bend it to shape

https://preview.redd.it/0hhyb9x4tned1.png?width=321&format=png&auto=webp&s=a0102358cb5c9ac8ea5646497b838475853a4394

3. Heat it up again and quench it in oil. Then put it in an oven at 200 C for an hour to temper it.

https://preview.redd.it/7xo2icvatned1.png?width=321&format=png&auto=webp&s=c0b49a94d4f22681b3013425ceb6ed80589a0570

4. Screw in the pin and it should hopefully be done.

https://preview.redd.it/7iaf1s2etned1.png?width=321&format=png&auto=webp&s=384beba64020738a4b36826981ef837b28aa7ea9

Am I correct with this? Will it make the spring keep it shape?

Hello. I’d like to hear all about the qualities stainless steel and aluminium and the comparison of the two.

I am here to ask about the strength, durability etc of stainless steel compared to aluminium in relation to aerial hoops.

I am an aerialist looking to buy a hoop and they generally come in stainless steel and aluminium options.

The research I have done states that aluminium is lighter but requires more care and is weaker than stainless steel.

Stainless steel is heavier and stronger with more corrosion resistance. (Please correct this if it’s wrong)

I am keen to do lots of dynamic tricks on the apparatus and will be teaching to adults and do not want the hoop to bend or snap.

The hoops can also be made hollow or solid - hollow hoops are lighter obvi, and solid are heavier but sturdier. Unfortunately there are not many solid options available domestically (Aus) and I’d like to know if a hollow hoop could still be strong enough to support the dynamic weight bearing of various tricks.

If anyone knows specifically about aerial hoops I’d appreciate their knowledge but also just the general facts about aluminium and stainless steel would be great so I can apply that knowledge to the hoops.

Thank you :)

I'm looking into CuNiFe passivation using sodium chloride solution and a tiny amount of ferrous sulfate, but I'm finding almost nothing about the process' mechanism as well as the endpoint determination for the process, as well as the endpoint for passivation processes in general how am I supposed to know when/if I can stop exposing the alloy to the solution? All the articles I'm seeing online are related to CuNi and not CuNiFe, so I'd also like to know the difference between the two

Please help. I am trying to find the exact kind of metal this is. I am looking to replicate the type of plaque seen here. It it about 2” x 4” if that helps anything. Help me find it and I will venmo or cash app you $10.

I just got my first 9” table top bandsaw (Wen model BA3959). Woohoo! 🎉 I’ve worked with a lot of tools but haven’t done as much with bandsaws or stainless steel. I have a some commercial kitchen stainless steel tables with stainless steel legs that are hollow circular stock (about 1 5/8” in exterior diameter) that I need to cut down so I can add wheels to them. What kind of blade (62”) and cutting oil/lubricant would you recommend? I have 17 table legs I need to mod. Thanks for your help!

They seem to have priced this at close to the cost of the real estate, but it comes with a beautifully equipped old school machine shop.

For anyone near Waterbury CT

$275,000

https://www.loopnet.com/Listing/64-Diane-Ter-Waterbury-CT/32552370/

https://preview.redd.it/h5z46s9oxied1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f43585362007456051d362063df4e82e9567b078

https://preview.redd.it/6j7vnfzoxied1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5d64dafa9301f8e649d4ce1a767564236e3a123

https://preview.redd.it/kkxg9uxpxied1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6202d0d142a6236f6638d643db9b82fb640cbf1c

Please ignore the dust as I got it used, I ordered a strong blower to get it clean (as it's unlikely I will ever use again an ultrasonic cleaner)

There are some parts which look damaged, I dunno how, if it's like rust/oxidated or if the paint came off.

In any case how could I cover those spots? What kind of not too expensive paint/process could I use to cover up the damage while not making the cooler to work as an insulator?

I've started my career in 2021 at a valve reconditioning company, where I currently work. Ever since then I've been doing my best to grow in the field of machining. I'm very neat and tidy in whatever I do. And I've come to find out I'm somewhat of a perfectionist when it comes to tasks. I'm really hoping to find a company that focuses on machining/related work. And I'm currently seeking employment in the USA/UK/ Surrounding areas. I believe I have the potential and would really appreciate any opportunities to grow in a company as I advance in my career. Please give me a shout if you know anyone looking for someone like me, a "Mr fix it" or a "Mr make it look new