Hi, i left my coffee grinder fall and the cup doesnt fit anymore. I dont want to scratch the outside. How do I bend it back to a circle shape? I have a knipex parallel plier, a lot of bike tools, some classic pliers, some screws extractor bits and a nice coffee machine.

Help please

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Hi Everyone, I am just posting this to ask for advice on what to use on this table.

My grandparents have been restoring this beautiful cooper table and they are looking for a sealant to put over the table. we were looking to use everbrite or johnsons miniwax but we are skeptical as they are either extremely expensive or hard to get in australia. if someone would be able to share any thoughts on what to seal this beautiful table with I would appreciate it.

Hi, gang!

I'm trying to figure out the best way to paint my aluminum surface in the salt air environment.

Initially I used this method:

1. Alumiprep 33

2. Alodine (Bonderite 1201)

3. Wash primer

However, I noticed that after some time the wash primer layer began flaking off.  

So I'm thinking about using alternate way to prime:

1. 99% Alcohol cleaning

2. a coat of Self-etching primer

3. a coat of Sherwin Williams High Solids Corrosion Resistant Epoxy Primer CM0483928.

Can anyone point me the right way? This seems like an easy topic, but the more I research, the more I'm confused about this topic.

Hey all, am a design student with a brief to design and manufacture an adjustable floor lamp, one possible design I have so far is this bent steel tube frame with a sort of kick bent into the base to allow the whole lamp to "rock" back and forth towards you.

However one area that I'm unsure about is whether there'll be too much flex in the base and whether there is anything I can do to reduce or stiffen the frame?

https://preview.redd.it/n02jhp7p034e1.jpg?width=7680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4eaba8cf32620bf0ff1596f35818e7f6b14400f3

https://preview.redd.it/6h8oxs7p034e1.jpg?width=7680&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36e541f4dccb47d1b56ca464465d6cce5dceee8d

Hey all, I’m a hobby project welder and almost everything I’ve made has either been outdoor art which I wanted to rust, or indoor railings which were finished with a surface coating after fabrication. I am about to make a gate though that will live with full element exposure in Seattle, lots of moisture and rain. It will have weathering steel panels for the cosmetic look on the outer surface, but my question is what will the lifespan of 2x2 square tube and other structural components be if left uncoated to patina/rust with the weathering steel? I’m thinking the sidewall of the tube will be .188, and the only stuff I can find with all the variety of shapes I need is standard hot rolled mild steel. If it lasts 10 yrs uncoated before issues arise that is long enough, but if it’ll be falling apart in 5 years or less that won’t fly. I’d rather not work with galvanized for both the health factor and visual appearance where those parts show. I also have considered coating the structural components with a rust inhibitor (oils/rattle can products/etc) before doing the final spot welds to attach panels. Or any other ideas I’m not thinking of?

So I have an enclosure which is basically a box and have another piece that bolts onto it. It's 3D printed, but now I'm considering designing a sheet / metal plate version of it using maybe something like 3/16"

I'm pretty new to metal work, but I was thinking of using tabbed slots to build the enclosure. But problem is I don't have a welder. Is it possible to maybe just epoxy the thing together or some other form of method that would allow me to construct the enclosure requiring welding as I live in a small apartment with very limited space for tools

I'd like a small pry bar / drift punch but the typical small 'edc' ones are ludicrously expensive and have like weird greebling and bottle openers and pocket clips and other 'tacticool' stuff built in. In contrast, a 1/4" Tekton 66001 cold chisel is $4 and dead simple.

The Tekton site says:

Each chisel is individually heat treated to harden and strengthen the tip while maintaining the soft temper of the striking end. The chisel blades are rough sharpened before heat treatment and then re-sharpened to a precise edge after heat treatment.

Can I somehow soften ("temper"? "anneal"?) the Tekton chisel to make it safe for use as a pry bar? I would not want it to shatter during use and cause injury.

If yes, what is the most accessible method? I have the following possibly relevant heating tools at my disposal:

• a kitchen oven
• a toaster oven
• a butane torch
• a corded 2000W heat gun that boasts temperature control from 122-1202 degrees Farenheit.

I also have pliers, files, a hmmer, a bench vise and "fiber face jaw caps" for the vise which I believe are supposed to be thermally insulating.

If I wanted to adjust the shape of the taper on the business end, I assume it would be better to do that once it has been softened?

I’m getting the hang of CNCing metal now. I use mostly copper and aluminum. I’d like to make my own pickup covers. How would I go about doing something like this?

Inside the tube. The cap circumference is surrounded by black bead (the plastic piece blocks the most of the view, look at the tiny opening on the bottom)

The Cap from outside. An edge is slightly visible from outside, it is not perfect.

See the wall thickness, approximately 0.3mm

I first thought it was capped by welding a cylinder piece which is smaller than the diameter of the tube at the end, like this:

https://preview.redd.it/x6lsgjve0p3e1.png?width=540&format=png&auto=webp&s=b3fa62053aa4fcc98e9c185747fe4f24683b7436

But then I realized the black weld marks (bead) inside (visible at the bottom of the first pic) and the mark goes all around the inner circumference. There must be a tool that allows welding in such a tight space. Could you tell me the name? Can it be handmade practically? Is there an easier way to cap such a tin piece without advanced tools?

I have to assume this exists or there’s a good reason why it doesn’t. Google and ChatGPT are failing me. I have to cut a groove in a lot of rods and being able to do it by hand rather than lathe would save me a massive amount of time. If there isn’t a simple hand tool does anyone have any alternatives that don’t involve chucking every single rod into the lathe? I’m even imagining some sort of system where I have a jig the length of the rod and then roll the rod through and a blade cuts groove, but I’m not sure if this is feasible. I have to do 1,000+ rods and likely many more in the future.

I orderd some cheap stainless steel watches on the internet and wanna try to customize them.I already have a soldering tool and already orderd some alloy.I need some tips on how to make this posible.Any help is apriciated. Here is the site i saw the models on https://dystopiumdesigns.com/collections/shop-all . I saw some people were saying to use a copper wire as a base for the solder .These are the models Im trying to recreate:

https://preview.redd.it/vauac3bdhn3e1.png?width=387&format=png&auto=webp&s=3b2574dfee852c851b9b509d8ba6b4ee6b84379b

https://preview.redd.it/zgx5euvdhn3e1.png?width=443&format=png&auto=webp&s=144f8a1b75fcedd8f54fc5745305d460426309f5

https://preview.redd.it/ax19q2mehn3e1.png?width=632&format=png&auto=webp&s=4b5570a95fdca9d5215e9d55efcd3d4ef1173eb9

Hey guys, I would like to try inlaying as a hobby, though I found some beginner tutorials about the technique and the process, I can not seem to find what exact tools are needed to begin and where to buy them, I don't even know the prices to know if I can even afford this hobby right now. Can anybody help me with the tools needed? I don't have the money to mess around with gold, so what cheap materials can I use to practice at first? Would copper on steel be viable? Thanks in advance

I don't know what's going on. I just can't drill through this so called mild steel angle iron. Wtf is going on brand new 6mm drill bit shattered.