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Ok forgive my lack of proper terminology, I'm only an apprentice right now. So heres my issue. My final we are supposed to create was going great, all parts were in tolerance. And first thread went well! Then I got cocky. I thought my cutting tool (Tool Steel) was sharp enough to cut again. It chipped about an hour and a half in. I decided after sharpening it for about half an hour, it was better I just ask someone for their tool. Problem is, I was confident that I wouldn't break their tool too! The part was smoking a bit (probably because I didn't use cutting oil) So I just quit, took the part out of the chuck and left at that point, because it was 6 o'clock and I had work early in the morning. My instructor had always said that taking the part out of the chuck middle of the threading process was bad, because of the centering right? So how can I fix my threads? They're only about a few thousandth away from finished, the bolt almost went in.

I’m not sure where else to ask this question since r/engineering told me I’m “too new” to the subreddit to make a post. Anyway, I’m looking at small springs for a personal project and I’m not very knowledgeable when it comes to springs. I’m trying to find a lightweight spring that is easy to fully compress in between your fingers. Can anyone help me out or maybe point me to a better subreddit for my question?

I have a 4", 7 insert, Walter ODHT mill and their speed and feed calculator online isn't working with my phone for some reason. I'm machining A572 and only taking a millimeter off per pass and yet at 2000rpm and 650.0 mm/min, I'm still getting premature wear. Ant ideas, ladies and gentlemen. Thank you I'm advance.

I got a drawing with text - “Double copy original”. What does it mean?

Hey r/machining,

I’m “bellevillebro,” your friendly disc spring enthusiast. If you’ve got questions about draw bars or Belleville washer applications—whether it’s configurations, force requirements, or anything else—drop them in the comments below!

I’m here to share insights, troubleshoot issues, or just nerd out about how these awesome little springs keep our machines running smoothly.

Let’s talk shop!

— bellevillebro 🚜

Tinkercad doesn't seem to have an export as STEP file option. It only has STL, OBJ, and GLB. Yet the design itself inside of Tinkercad is made from basic shapes. How can I get a STEP file from my Tinkercad design, for the purpose of machining?

I've got a 1975ish Enterprise L Lathe.

I'm trying to figure out the right kind of oil to go in it. The manual has this but I'm not sure about things that aren't motor oil 🙂

I am trying to parse some files that are in the German format VDA-FS (Verband der Automobilindustrie - Flächenschnittstelle) 2.0 (DIN 66 301). So far, I have only been able to buy the 1.0 version of the standard, and I have not found anywhere the 2.0 version. Does anybody know where I can find the standard? I know that there are several CAD systems that do import VDA-FS 2.0, but I need the standard to check the equations.

I start my first job out of high school on Friday and I am going to be building pulling tractor heads and other Engine parts it is a mixture of CNC and manual machine. Dose any one have any tip or ideas of what I need on my first day?

I've wired it up to three-phase 220 But all I get are angry buzzing noises.

My outlet is 4-wire three-phase and the lathe is three wire three-phase.

So to test and see if it works, I've hooked the three hot wires from the outlet to the lathe.

That seems like how it should go based on what I'm reading, but again, just angry buzzing when I plug it in.

Any ideas on troubleshooting this? I checked the outlet and I know it's three-phase 220.

45 years in the machining world Thinking of starting another machine shop. My last business was both CNC and manuals. Been out of the shop for 10 years. Need a recommendation on either CNC or manual shop again. Used to do alot of maintenance work for customers. Also did production runs also. But also don't want to get big again also

Hello,
I'm a relatively new CNC machinist.
I programmed a part in 2 operations with profiling on both of them, with the same outside profile split so half the outside is done in the first op and the second half is done in the second op, and the part is just flipped between the ops and held in a vice.

The profile is not complicated, just a square with fillets in the corners and a couple holes in it that don't need to be precise.

The part itself is just a fixture plate, so it doesn't need to be perfect, but I want to gain some experience with it, so I can use this technique in the future.

I'm concerned that the parting line will be visible when I go to do the second operation, due to either bad probing or some other factor.
How can I make sure my profiles meet exactly?

I have been searching online for a bit and I found someone suggesting putting an indicator on the part upon probing, but that seems impractical as I need to make more than one of these parts.
Are there any other ways?

Thanks for the help

We have Horizontal machine and as per drawing Dia 115J7 hole operation done surface finish is not OK, tool height is around 300mm ,Please help for proper parameters for surface finish

In the state of Ohio in Aerospace Services, looking for job shops interested both regional/around the US/canada is good. Looking for runs from 1-100 pcs etc Would need material certs and to send prints requires NDA etc, reach out if you are interested in quoting me.

Regular metals are like 4140, 6160 etc , sometimes random HDPE’s and stuff its a mixed bat, and lots of black oxide parts and zinc/ nickel plating and heat treated parts.

It is a pleasure to make your acquaintance, regards,

My father and I are starting a CNC machining company. My father has over 20 years of machining experience and decided to open his own business. We currently have a CNC lathe, a lathe, a milling machine and a few other machines that help us at certain times. We have some local clients, but nothing fancy, and we want to expand our business to find companies and provide services to them. What is the best way to do this?

Dear All

Does anyone have any experiences with both machines? We are trying to buy turning machine. Quick turn 200 vs puma 2100. Is mazak worth the money? I just want some opinion :)

What do you guys know about these machines? Looking like I’m going to land a very high volume order and I’m weighing my options. This machine has caught my eye. Any comparable machines we should consider?

I'm asking you guys because you seem to deal with matching and measuring threads a lot! Are these threads some sort of standard? I want to model a new spout in Fusion 360 and would love it if I don't have to manually model them.

OD is about 37mm and thread pitch is about 4.8mm?
They seem to be a sort of buttress thread but it's plastic so not sure if that makes any difference.

https://preview.redd.it/ryx7knio5b2e1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22dbd69f4fa8d39f9ab2dce8b3f8fd7d073db95d

https://preview.redd.it/wts19lio5b2e1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc7ad4a2e1acce92c983ef80de316d52ec269b60

I don’t work in a machine shop but I have a job to build a machine to automate a process at work. I need to build a machine to cut disks up to 25” diameter out of stone slabs using a die grinder as the cutting implement. My plan was to build a turntable with a center overhead clamp with a thrust bearing foot. Motor driven turntable with an adjustable armature for the grinder to mount on and let gravity do its thing as far as cutting force.

Has anyone worked with such a machine before? Does a machine like this exist?

Hi, ive recently decided to take on the task of creating my own 1 of 1 gaming mouse from scratch, its something i have been thinking about doing for ages and next month i've decided im gonna do it, now i really like the idea of the BEAST X magnesium alloy mouse by WLmouse, would anybody know what type of magnesium alloy that would be? im planning on prototyping many designs on my 3d printer and eventually when i get a design i like i will go to a local machining company and get some metal samples made, however the only thing that im stuck on is that magnesium "alloy" i know i obviously wouldnt be able to use pure magnesium however i have absolutely no idea on what alloy i should go for hoping someone more knowledgeable could bless me with that info, Thanks :D

https://www.facebook.com/reel/577872854892759 My dad is trying to find any info related to what this model would be any help is appreciated

https://preview.redd.it/014gjz6u0q1e1.png?width=700&format=png&auto=webp&s=5c033cff80584f3c2b84b69f7e5c079ebed1d85f

Considering buying a Deckel FP-1 as it is not very commonly available in Norway. And because of that I´m also unsure how to value it... don´t have many comps here...

He´s selling it to the highest bidder above 35.000 NOK (Approx. 3150 USD)...

Text from the ad translated to english:
Deckel FP-1 milling machine from the early 60s, which runs like a dream, tight and nice, with upper arm => both vertical and horizontal milling. Spindle run-out with 10 mm sleeve and transition is less than 1/100, check video. There is no play at all in the cone. Feed on X and Z axis works perfectly and the axes swivel silky smooth manually. Aikron DRO with miniature scales (about 10,000 NOK in total) and Wohlhaupter boring and planing head (bores out and plans a plane or, for example, a groove for an o-ring that is completely perpendicular to the boring axis) + quite a lot more. Demanders stick. Frequency converter provides soft start, motor brake and reverse.

Se links below for more pictures, video etc.

So, I know this is a very sought after machine and valuable... but I don´t know any of the nuances between variants / vintages etc. So just wanted to get an opinion of what you guys think of this machine, any pitfalls to look out for, estimated value etc?

https://preview.redd.it/8ij0wld2ag1e1.png?width=1280&format=png&auto=webp&s=c08798791a3d5a014dca71143751eeb7af96453d

You can see more pictures of the machine for sale here:
https://www.finn.no/recommerce/forsale/item/380368397?ci=9

Video of spindle run out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=471QIE4qA5I

Demo of machine:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzaSy6LbGPs

The table of my newly acquired HBM BF25 is 18 cm deep (7.08") and I'm looking for a good clamp that is compatible with the dimensions of my machine. It should also be of good quality and last for many years. Strangely, most clamps that I find are far too big (30cm long or even much longer). They don't fit on my table.

The only clamp that looks good and could fit is the HBM type 7 clamp. It is 24.5 cm long (9.65"). What are your opinions / advice here? And how do you mount this clamp to the table? I dont see any holes for bolts...

Thanks!

HBM type 7 clamp

I need some direction on how i could cut these external splines on a 0.75" shaft: https://imgur.com/a/8TBofUg

I know it can be done with just a normal endmill as they show here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gDQLIEV3IpA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PY7N-kliLiI&t=422s

I know if I had a spline cutter I could just rotate my workpiece 360*/6splines=60degrees per spline, but with a normal endmill I will have to make a total of 12 cuts, not just 6. I can't come in with the endmill dead center, how do I know at which angle to come to my workpiece so that 12 cuts get s me the necessary dimension for my spline as they show in their videos? Particularly this section of Tony's video: https://youtu.be/gDQLIEV3IpA?t=347