Hello everyone!

Recently, the 2024 Southeast Asia International Forum on Recycled Metals was held in Bangkok, Thailand, and it sent a clear and important message: Major Chinese recycled non-ferrous metal enterprises are strongly seeking opportunities for overseas inspections and investments.

^(Forum Overview)

This forum brought together industry experts, corporate representatives, and government officials from around the world to discuss the latest developments, technological innovations, and market trends in the recycled metals industry. There was particularly strong interest and high expectations for the Southeast Asian market.

Chinese Enterprises Going Global

In the context of global economic integration, major Chinese recycled non-ferrous metal enterprises are actively seeking international development. Many Chinese enterprise representatives at the forum expressed their optimism about the immense potential of the Southeast Asian market, especially Thailand. Thailand not only boasts a superior geographical location and a favorable policy environment, but also has significant room for growth in resource recovery and recycling.

Advantages of Investing in Thailand

In recent years, the Thai government has introduced a series of policies to encourage foreign investment, including tax incentives, streamlined administrative procedures, and technical support. These measures provide great convenience for Chinese enterprises investing in Thailand. Moreover, the local market demand for recycled non-ferrous metals in Thailand is continuously growing, offering a broad space for business expansion.

Promising Market Prospects

Experts predict that with Southeast Asian countries' increasing emphasis on environmental protection and sustainable development, the recycled non-ferrous metals industry will experience rapid growth in the coming years. Chinese enterprises have significant advantages in technology, capital, and management experience, further enhancing their competitiveness in the Southeast Asian market.

Conclusion

The 2024 Southeast Asia International Forum on Recycled Metals not only pointed the way for industry development but also provided new opportunities for major Chinese recycled non-ferrous metal enterprises to enter the international market. As a major economy in Southeast Asia, Thailand is undoubtedly an ideal choice for enterprise investment and business expansion.

If you are a practitioner in the recycled non-ferrous metals industry, pay attention to the development trends in the Thai market. It could be the new starting point for your career!

Feel free to leave comments and discuss the future development of the recycled metals industry.

Thank you for reading! I hope this article was helpful to you. If you have any questions or suggestions, please leave a comment below, and I will respond as soon as possible.

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#Mining #Metallurgy #ThailandIndustry #copper #Metalextractiondiluent

This is the inside of a Bialetti moka coffee maker. The white and black spots are deposits that form when it sits unused for a while. I'm wondering what those might be and if this is still safe to use? I think this started after I washed the pot in the dishwasher once, but I'm not 100% sure about the correlation...

I'm looking to build my self a vessel to be a giant sterilizer. I've been using mild steal drums up to this point, and the steam / oxygen is reacting to create rust and magnetite. So anything I'm sterilizing is getting a rust dripped on it or black staining if it touches the sides.

Obviously stainless would be the best way to go, however I'm unable to find used stainless barrels for less than 200$ plus 200$ in shipping. Its also crazy expensive to purchase for building.

From what I can tell, galvanized steel would be safe to use, the zinc coating shouldn't peel off running 212f for 18 hours, and it won't corrode. Is welding together a box out of galvanized steel a safe bet or am I missing something? Doesn't need to hold pressure, just mostly hold in the steam around the items.

I'm back at it with alloys and metalworking procedures from the book The Chemical Formula Vol #1, the procedure is as follows: boil linseed oil, add 1/2 lbof resin per gallon of oil, iron or steel is immersed in the solution until it reaches the same temp, metal is removed covered with resin and quenched in cold coal-oil.

My question is how does this harden the metal, I cannot imagine boiling linseed oil could bring the metal up to any significant temperature. I originally thought it could be case hardening but it simply doesn't get hot enough.

Hi, just curious if there is any way to estimate the melting temperature of a manmade item whose composition is 75% copper, 18% lead, and 7% tin. Would the relatively high (I think) percentage of lead give it a low enough melting point to melt or deform in a campfire?

I beg pardon if this makes no sense, but I know nothing about metallurgy and am just curious if an item composed of that alloy is something that could be routinely heated in a campfire without being destroyed.

Howdy I’m a student working on a project with nitinol and having some issues. The transition temperature is between 10 and 16 degrees Celsius and is 0.02 mm round wire. We are heating it in a kiln up to 500 degrees Celsius and holding in our shape for 10-20 minutes. The issue is that after removing it from our shape it retains an almost half shape and does not return to the exact shape we had it in even when placed in temperature controlled water.

Any ideas would be appreciated!

There are aluminum straight edges for sale, but is there some metallurgical reason that copper, bronze, or brass straight edges are not or cannot be made?

Hello, r/Metallurgy community,

We are excited to introduce our newly developed non-ferrous metal extractant, specifically designed for use in Thailand's mining and metallurgy industries. Through this post, we aim to share the technical features and potential applications of our product.

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*High-Efficiency Extraction: Our new formula enhances the extraction efficiency of non-ferrous metals such as copper, nickel, and zinc, making it suitable for various industrial processes.
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Hi, I am writing a story involving giant robots, and I had the idea for one machine to launch a superheated nail made of tungsten through a machine whose armor is made of iron (I am also considering steel or aluminum). The idea is that the attacking machine is originally used for massive shipbuilding, and has basically giant nailguns.

My theory is that if the tungsten nail is heated above 2200 Fahrenheit (but not near its melting point of 6000), and is launched within a chamber(?) of something with a similarly high melting point, and launched with enough force, the combination of force and heat would allow the nails to penetrate thick iron armor. I don't know anything about metallurgy but wanted to see if ya'll had any thoughts about this, or any reasons why something like this might be impossible. I know I can do whatever I want in a fictional story, but I'd like for it to be a little grounded in realism.

Thanks so much for your time!

Hi guys, any recommendations to prevent sacrificial corrosion of an aluminum PCB ( LED CHIP ) that is fixed to a brass plate?

Its a mechanically attached PCB to I have room to insert something between the PCB and brass mounting plate.

The customer demands a more refined microstructure of our tin bronze (Cu-12Sn) castings.

We can't really improve the cooling rate further due to the limitations of our current setup.

Are there any inoculations for this class of alloy to boost nucleation rate? It could also potentially reduce our other problem with this alloy, which is solidification shrinkage.

The ASM handbook for Cu-based alloy mentions inoculation as a method for improving the microstructure of tin-bronze. But it doesn't mention which types, and the method of adding them!

Hello to everyone reading this. I am currently working on measurement of strain and displacement fields at high temperature using DIC. I used Ncorr, pydic, and the Christoph eberl software for my analysis but the results were not satisfactory. I want to know any other open source softwares or how to further improve my results. Any help is appreciated 🤞

I am an engineer, but not a metallurgist. Chloride stress cracking is my guess, but I’m looking for someone with more specific experience. The “growth rings” on the cracked surface seem to be what I’d expect.

From an ocean going sailboat. This part is specified as 316L, it’s about 20 years old. Under constant tension. The failure occurred under moderate load, and obviously after the cracks had spread to about 50% of the cross sectional area. This would normally be regularly wet with ocean water, then drying, so a potentially very high chloride environment local environment. Temperature full sun ambient, so a high of 40C would not be unusual, but certainly not constant.

This is actually a very rare failure in these parts, so any comments about what might have initiated it would be very welcome. Would out of spec alloy be a potential cause?

Can anyone help me understand how they differ? My understanding of air melt grade is that they slightly deviate from standard chemical composition whereas vacuum melt grade has to stay within the chemistry range. How are melters converting air melt grade to vacuum melt grade and how expensive is the process?

My current understanding is that for a given hardness, a steel with a lower carbon content will have greater impact strength and fracture toughness than a similar steel with a higher carbon content. I see knifemakers for example, using 1095 at 58HRC when 1060 would be able to reach that. What exactly are they trading in that toughness for?

I got a really good deal on a super extra heavy barreled rifle. It had rust on it. I took the barrel down to baremetal without rust and then used engine primer and engine paint. Then i baked the rifle for 500 degrees fahrenheit for an hour. Did i make the barrel weak by putting it in the oven?

Hello, Hoping someone can explain to me the main difference between S355G7 and S355G10 steel? Would one be deemed a "higher" grade than the other? Thanks

This may be a bit off-topic in regards to the scientific aspect of this subreddit, but I think it's worth asking since people here definitely know their steels and their corrosion science. I want to protect simple steel objects from corrosion. Some of them may be left outside. However I don't want to paint them, since I enjoy the metallic look. I don't quite trust penetrating oil or DW40 to offer any protection against corrosion, except maybe short-term.

I know of bluing and this is probably the effect I am mostly keen on, aesthetically speaking. I also understand that it offers quite adequate protection against corrosion due to the oxide layer it forms. Problem is I cannot find any cold bluing solutions outside the US (I am eastern EU). I have found several offers for silver darkening but I don't know if those would work.

Do you have any recommendations? I want to avoid making my own cold bluing solution since from what I have seen it can contain some sketchy and/or hard to find chemicals (commercially speaking at least). Or perhaps aside bluing, is there maybe a trustworthy way to protect steel from corrosion long-term, while avoiding painting?

Thanks in advance and of course feel free to call out anything incorrect that I have said!

Hopefully someone can share their expertise on my question. I’m looking for the best material to be able to boil sea water (3% concentrate) and reduce it to 33% concentrate which will resist corrosion and pitting. I’ve read articles that suggest SS316 and others suggest aluminum alloy in the 5000 and 6000 series. I don’t have the Iron Bank backing me so I want to keep costs down. I appreciate the insight in advance.

I am looking to mimic an old watch dial look. this is what i am hoping to emulate idea wise:

Way back when, watch manufacturers would take a polished blank brass dial, stamp and image on it, plate with zinc, then apply a black chromate to blacken the zinc. The stamped image would be wiped away and the polished brass would show against the blackened zinc. Over time some of these dials turned from black to brown either to varying degrees to total brown. I am trying to mimic that natural brown coloration by forcing it through whatever means.

Would the brown discoloration be more due to oxidization of the brass showing through the blackened zinc? Or is there something else that is happening/

Hi all,

As the title states, I’m building a DIY pool chiller for my saltwater pool and I’m looking for the best alloy material for my coil. My pool has roughly 0.33% saltwater concentration and I will be circulating pool water through the coil, which will be submerged in a continuously chilled propylene glycol/water OR CaCO3/water OR NaCl solution.

I’m a scientist by trade so I enjoy this type of stuff… meaning I’m not going to buy $5000 chiller lol. Any ideas, questions or suggestions welcome.

Thanks!

Not much of a metallurgy background but I do have some experience in engineering.

I am curious if anyone has any input regarding the performance of aluminum vs anodized aluminum, specifically serving as an anode rod within a water heater.

It is my understanding that the anode rods are used as a sacrificial part to wear instead of the steel tank. Other materials such as magnesium are often used as well.

Would an anodized aluminum rod perform better worse or similar to a non anodized part?

Hello all, not sure if this is the right place to ask, but I am trying to research how conversion of sponge to ingots. For example 1 Tonne of Sponge + XYZ alloys = how many tones of Titanium Ingots?

Is this conversion possible? Or am I comparing apples-to-oranges here? I've done a lot of searching on my end, but couldn't find an explicit answer...

Thanks for the help all!

I been seeing articles about 316 titanium reinforced stainless steel pots and pans

I’m curious to know if they actually provided improved material performed such as an increase to pitting corrosion

Here is an example

https://www.heritagesteel.us/products/hsc-17002

Edit:

And another

https://saladmaster.com/fr-ca/cook-more/delicious-perspectives-blog//saladmaster-cookware-why-316-stainless-steel-316-ti-cookware

Hello all, I'm looking for some information, I'm an author and writing a sci-fi novel. I have been doing some research in to Heat treating steel to improve its durability and was wondering if it would be possible in the future to have Star forged Steel.

To explain a little more, the idea is that space ships are used to get close to the sun and use the suns extreme heats to smelt and mould the steel into the necessary building components for construction, creation of armour for tanks and maybe even swords and other such weapons. I want to make sure my book is as accurate as possible. Thanks and take care

I have MiG welded and done visual inspections. But never testing of any sort. Anywhere I can look or anyone have any tips for me?

Hey everyone, just acquired this antique ash tray stand and advice online to clean up the metal has been mixed.

I’ve been told to start with soap and water, vinegar, purple power, and mother’s mag with a brass brush.

I want to clean up the patina/rust so I can use the ash tray as intended. I wanted to ask the experts here what I can do to make sure I don’t ruin it. Thanks!

Hey guys.

I'm trying to find either an individual, or a compound of metals in which are relatively resistant to physical "Injury" or obstruction, that maintain their rigidity, and are highly/extremely reactive under moderate to high temperatures.

Asking for a friend