Looking to turn a half inch alumium bar for a pen with carbide bits - calculators online are saying like 5000+ rpm??? My school's manual lathe only goes up to 1500 and running it at that speed feels like somethings going to kill me. I'm new to all this, so looking for advice. What am I missing? Thanks!

So I'm trying to measure tool lengths and I keep getting this error code, 436 unregistered tool number. I have used it before in a single tool program, so I don't understand how it is unregistered. Any help is appreciated.

I just purchased an old south bend lathe that came with a lantern style toolpost.

Are there any good videos or articles y’all have found on how to properly set one up?

Mainly wondering how to ensure my tooling is set at the right height.

Does anyone know why my lathe grooving toolpath is completely ignoring my chain ??? I have tried everything and it just won’t work.

Hi I wanted to talk about the process of plate/ cylindrical lap charging/impregnation with lapping particles.

What are the requirements for the grit to embed itself into the lap? Is it dependant on the hardness of the lap compared to the part being lapped? Or does it depend on the lapping compund type (diamond, al oxide etc.) Or perhaps both are important?

Are there special compounds that never embed themselves?

Suppose I am using a soft metal ID lap with diamond compound to lap a hardened tool steel cylinder. Will the grit embed itself into the softer metal only? If so is it possible to wash it out with mineral spirits when switching to a finer grit? Or should I dust the lap surface on an OD grinder to be extra safe?

2nd example lapping 3 hardened tool steel plates between each other. Do I have to use a special non embeding compound or is aluminium oxide or diamond safe to use without the risk of impregnation?

Part is similar to my 2D drawing. And any other tips you may have for the lathe just throw them my way , thanks in advance!

I'm looking for some waterproof (coolant proof) thin REUSABLE gloves that I can wear all day long and then wash, dry and reuse the next day that still enable me to do all the dexterous activities involved in machining. I'm bored of going through blue nitrile gloves or washing my hands constantly to avoid my skin dissolving from being covered in coolant all day long.

Any recommendations would be extremely helpful!

The shop I work in has air conditioning just for our aerospace customers. Anything over 90° outside and the air comes on in the winter time we have no heat at all. is this okay?

Hey! New here, I run a manual Bridgeport Mill and was looking for ideas for cool tats (for this trade) was wondering if anyone has some cool ones to inspire me. My idea would be to get the Bridgeport tatted but in pieces. Kind of like the photo but obviously more aesthetically pleasing;

Have a Bridgeport ez trak. When I got to home it the axis’ start to move but then it says “drives not on fails go home” followed by this alarm “y dac underflow”. When I manually move it the digital read out changes for both axis’. Any ideas?

Easy enough Monday morning job, hobbing 45degree helicals. Not too bad as long as you don’t push the machine too hard.

First time using quick release jaws, there’s nothing wrong with having a bit of overhang in the tennon is there?

Has anyone had a problem with this ?

So I’m an 18 year old guy, who’s been doing machining for school and what not for about two and half years. This school year I’m being taught how to run CNC machines, and about, let’s say, 80% (estimated guess of the top of my head) are HAAS machines. Now seeing some posts on here, why are HAAS machines not looked favorably upon? I’m just curious as I haven’t really run on any other CNC machine, outside an old Clausing mill (which ain’t exactly had the best experiences with). So overall my questions are: why don’t people like HAAS, and what is the most preferred manufacturer of machines?

Going to the end up being the basis for a ball turner for my mini lathe.

To preface I have about 4 years of experience in job shop environments. setting up, programming code by hand, de-bugging programs, all that good jazz.

I’ve done a good amount of manual machining and have a small shop at my house.

Anyway I interviewed at a pump repair shop the other day and the interview went well, he told me to come in the Monday for a skills test. He said he’ll probably have me indicate a part in on a 4-jaw, do some single point threading, and probably making a Male and female bore connection. How normal is that? I’ve interviewed at a lot of shops and never had to do this extensive of a test, do yall manual machinist have to do this to show how much you know at most interviews?

Okay I know it sounds bad, but look at this. This is not an abnormal sight in the shop. And the worst part about it is the taping cycle is in the program. I know it sounds bad that I refuse to assemble these parts, but it is all to frustrating having to fix these issues time and time again. Am I being unreasonable?

I’m new to operating a haas lathe (formerly operated a mill) and I’m curious what the GCode of this part looks like? If I see how all the features are written I think I’ll have a better understanding of lathe vs mill code. Thanks so much!😊

Was at my school working on a now botched final where I saw myself taking breaks after a few hours or so because I was either too tired to make a good cut, or because one part of my body was WAYY to close to the chuck. Seriously, nearly jumped back after seeing that my face was almost inches away from the chuck.

Any advice on break down points, or links to wiring diagrams would be appreciated. Currently on a job and not sure wtf to do with it to get it moved.

To start I'm fairly new to machining. I've been around it my whole life just never done much myself. I'm an industrial mechanic by trade but dabble in everything.

My problem: I need to make a 3/4 inch hole through 2 inches of hardened steel. I know it's not easy and I need proper tooling. I have a JET mill with a 2hp motor and no power feed. I can obtain any drill bits or cutters needed no matter the cost. The steel is a hardened spear, round, 2 inches used for moving hay bales. I don't know the exact hardness but the point will bend and the shank breaks. I have no specs on this metal other that hard as crap. The hole has some play room so a twis drill is plenty accurate.

I am guessing carbide twist drills 135 degree split point. Pilot hole first followed by full size and plenty of cooling. Rpm slow 300 or less. Again I'm guessing from what I've heard and read I'm not a well seasoned machinist.

For fun I tried a medium to high quality high speed steel bit at 150 rpm for a 1/4 inch pilot hole. It cut for about 30 seconds before the bit chowdered the end to oblivion. I think I have the power to do it I just don't have the right bit and speed. Then again I may just be completely wrong and screwed, I dunno. Any help or advice would be appreciated even if it's just that I'm screwed.

I just started learning G code and I'm confused about how radius compensation G41 and G42 work. When I use them, they seem to affect what happens in the block before them, and the block after them is then delayed in execution. I can't figure it out. Can someone explain to me the correct way to use these commands?