Hey guys I ran into an issue that I need some help with. So I need to tap some m1.2 x 2.5 holes and I couldn’t do it on the mill with the cutting tap or what I had in stock. So essentially, I just went down around .050 or more to get the first thread started so I could hand tap later with ease. Well now I have 200 holes to tap and I keep braking taps, even while hand tapping. After searching, I finally found a roll tap in this size and was wondering if I can put it on the machine again . I still have a depth of around .180 left to go so I was planning on using the roll tap for this.

I realize the top portion of the thread may be off, but it just might pass QC. Any thoughts or suggestions ? It’s an internal thread on 7075ALU .

Hey y’all, I’m working on updating and modernizing the family business’s website/online presence.

We’re a grinding (Blanchard, double disk, surface grinding, creep feed grinding) and machining (vertical milling) facility based in Easton, mostly a job shop with a bit of production work.

There’s the obvious website stuff - general info, capabilities, contact.

Is there anything less obvious you like to see on a potential suppliers site? Things that are helpful, save time, help decide if a companies worth contacting, etc.

I appreciate any input!

Current site - http://www.abprecision.com/home.html LinkedIn - https://www.linkedin.com/company/ab-precision-grinding-co/

Almost lost my stitches virginity at work! Lucky it was a clean cut, barely even bled but easily could’ve been worse. Don’t save de-burring for later! (Obvious advice but urgency culture can make us skip vital steps sometimes)

how do I solve this?

Im a precision surface grinder, single with one son. I have the ability to do 16 hours overtime when ever I want to but I only do 6 a week. My side gig is doing dirt bike and quad tune ups! I ride dirt bikes every weekend and love wrenching on shit while watching or listening to podcast, what’s your side gig???

Hello everyone,

My name is Patrick, one of three co-hosts of the Impractical Machinists podcast. Myself and two friends started this podcast a few months ago, and are up to episode 9. Episode 10 comes out this Tuesday.

We want to provide our knowledge and experience to the community, and so I thought I’d take the time to introduce it to Reddit. We welcome feedback. If you enjoy it, leave us a like/rating!

A little information on we three co-hosts:

I am a machinist with 10 years’ experience from east TN, and currently am the lead programmer of the same job shop I have worked at for my entire career thus far.

Brad is the owner of Marvel Machining in Minnesota, a one-man shop that’s been in business for a decade. He’s got a total of 20 years’ experience in the trade, including tool and die work, manual machining, and programming.

Cameron is the foreman of a small machine shop in Georgia. He has four years’ experience but has progressed very rapidly in that short time, going the new route for machinists: eschewing being tutored by an old fogey, instead learning from the mass amount of information out there on Youtube, Instagram, and just applying himself.

Here are the playlist links.

Spotify: https://open.spotify.com/show/7g0wFLl2oNiGPB5MiL6iEx

Apple: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-impractical-machinists/id1753982393

Youtube: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLxzIM06jyJCYTCMGUQLgKXNtpq-HqvV2Q&si=O9dTg7rmP4swQMVy

We release episodes on Spotify, Apple, and Youtube every other Tuesday. On Youtube they are released to the Practical Machinist Youtube channel.

Thank you for checking it out. If you enjoyed it, good news, episode 10 comes out in just a few days!

Question for you guys, I have a historical firearm restoration project I'm working on and am trying to get a very specific type of thumbscrew that I have specs and dimensions for, but the usual suspects (MSC, McMaster, fastenal etc) don't have the exact screw. I'm basically wondering if custom or CNC would be the best option? I also only need...about 4 of them, so that might change costs significantly.

The thumb screw is 5/8 overall length, slotted drive, straight knurled (cheesehead thumb screw knob), 10-32, 18-8 stainless steel, and phosphate coated.

Edit for context, this is the screw I am trying to recreate

https://imgur.com/a/TAzeS1v

Fixture design class, need help with work instructions/gcode.

I need to figure out how to clock the rotational position of a turbine/impeller with a probe so a 5x machine can take the blades to final dimension. Part is a forging, so the blades are already present. 16 blades, equally spaced.

I know it needs to touch off the reference datums on the pressure and suction sides, but I don't have experience with probes or 5x machines outside of the barest exposure in class, so using those to tell the machine where the centerline is is out of my skill level.

If anybody has a bit of code that I could use in my class, or is able to point me to a resource to work it out myself, I would be grateful. Nothing is actually going to be made, it's just design proposals to try and sell to an imaginary customer for their imaginary production line.

Machine: Whatever we want

Probe: Whatever we want

Extra tooling I don't know I need: Whatever we want

When I work at night shift I try to sleep 30 min before shift end time ,here's my spot to avoid cctv

I'm tired of babysitting a saw.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an automatic band saw? Something in a 12" round cap, and mitreing.

I heard mention on forums years ago that saws often need to take a trim cut to set zero, but there was a particular brand that would touch off the stock to the blade to set it.

Is that still a thing, or and I misremembering?

Thanks!

Mixed up my memory and chucked up a 21/64 instead of a 27/64” drill for the tap. Tapped the first hole fine and then snapped on the second 😅 Ran the proper pre drill through them and they were good threads, didn’t even need to run a tap through 👌just a fixture block anyway..

So I’ve recently finished my required projects for my semester in my high school vocational program, and I started my personal project using 3d milling on Mastercam. However, the shop didn’t have the right stock for it, so my teacher had put in the request for it. I was wondering if someone could tell me, simply because I’m just curious, if there is either a calculator online that can determine the price of stock based on length, width, and thickness, or a mathematical equation to figure out it myself. Thanks y’all

Am building a bench that will primarily hold a mini-lathe (my first one).

I am 6’4” and prefer to err on the side of higher rather than lower because it maximizes storage underneath.

What do you guys think is a good bench height? (I am using metal legs that can be adjusted in 2” increments.) 41” seems like a good starting height for me but it might be too high in actual practice.

Also a lot more for mill machining

2m Cycle Time…360 parts. Hmm…M99 and on OT Day… Chillin

Anyone know where you can buy these with or without the DTI. DRO is broke on our lathe at work and doesn’t look like it’s getting fixed anytime soon so looking at getting something like this, or up for making it just to make things quicker and more accurate.

So we've got a right angle attachment for our mill and we're wondering if its possible/is it reccomended to use an endmill in it for some slotting features in an aluminum part.