Easy enough Monday morning job, hobbing 45degree helicals. Not too bad as long as you don’t push the machine too hard.

First time using quick release jaws, there’s nothing wrong with having a bit of overhang in the tennon is there?

Has anyone had a problem with this ?

So I’m an 18 year old guy, who’s been doing machining for school and what not for about two and half years. This school year I’m being taught how to run CNC machines, and about, let’s say, 80% (estimated guess of the top of my head) are HAAS machines. Now seeing some posts on here, why are HAAS machines not looked favorably upon? I’m just curious as I haven’t really run on any other CNC machine, outside an old Clausing mill (which ain’t exactly had the best experiences with). So overall my questions are: why don’t people like HAAS, and what is the most preferred manufacturer of machines?

Going to the end up being the basis for a ball turner for my mini lathe.

To preface I have about 4 years of experience in job shop environments. setting up, programming code by hand, de-bugging programs, all that good jazz.

I’ve done a good amount of manual machining and have a small shop at my house.

Anyway I interviewed at a pump repair shop the other day and the interview went well, he told me to come in the Monday for a skills test. He said he’ll probably have me indicate a part in on a 4-jaw, do some single point threading, and probably making a Male and female bore connection. How normal is that? I’ve interviewed at a lot of shops and never had to do this extensive of a test, do yall manual machinist have to do this to show how much you know at most interviews?

Okay I know it sounds bad, but look at this. This is not an abnormal sight in the shop. And the worst part about it is the taping cycle is in the program. I know it sounds bad that I refuse to assemble these parts, but it is all to frustrating having to fix these issues time and time again. Am I being unreasonable?

I’m new to operating a haas lathe (formerly operated a mill) and I’m curious what the GCode of this part looks like? If I see how all the features are written I think I’ll have a better understanding of lathe vs mill code. Thanks so much!😊

Was at my school working on a now botched final where I saw myself taking breaks after a few hours or so because I was either too tired to make a good cut, or because one part of my body was WAYY to close to the chuck. Seriously, nearly jumped back after seeing that my face was almost inches away from the chuck.

Any advice on break down points, or links to wiring diagrams would be appreciated. Currently on a job and not sure wtf to do with it to get it moved.

To start I'm fairly new to machining. I've been around it my whole life just never done much myself. I'm an industrial mechanic by trade but dabble in everything.

My problem: I need to make a 3/4 inch hole through 2 inches of hardened steel. I know it's not easy and I need proper tooling. I have a JET mill with a 2hp motor and no power feed. I can obtain any drill bits or cutters needed no matter the cost. The steel is a hardened spear, round, 2 inches used for moving hay bales. I don't know the exact hardness but the point will bend and the shank breaks. I have no specs on this metal other that hard as crap. The hole has some play room so a twis drill is plenty accurate.

I am guessing carbide twist drills 135 degree split point. Pilot hole first followed by full size and plenty of cooling. Rpm slow 300 or less. Again I'm guessing from what I've heard and read I'm not a well seasoned machinist.

For fun I tried a medium to high quality high speed steel bit at 150 rpm for a 1/4 inch pilot hole. It cut for about 30 seconds before the bit chowdered the end to oblivion. I think I have the power to do it I just don't have the right bit and speed. Then again I may just be completely wrong and screwed, I dunno. Any help or advice would be appreciated even if it's just that I'm screwed.

I just started learning G code and I'm confused about how radius compensation G41 and G42 work. When I use them, they seem to affect what happens in the block before them, and the block after them is then delayed in execution. I can't figure it out. Can someone explain to me the correct way to use these commands?

Hi,

I am a mechanical engineer and new to CNC milling.

I have a 1000mm long and 75mm thickness and width rectangular piece. Is it possible to mill this piece on a milling machine having a 600mm maximum travel using some sort of adjustment, settings etc., or do I need a machine with 1000mm travel.

Thanks

Does anybody know where I can buy left hand thread #8-32 screws? Seems that back in the day Craftsman really liked using them. I have looked locally and online but the only source wants me to buy 1000. I can buy a die and cut my own, and that may be what I have to do, but for a couple of screws the cost is a little higher than I would like. I would appreciate any help.

Hello people. I need help. I brought MACHINIST B450M AM4-A motherboard and I need to update bios. Can you please send link or file for bios.

I've been a machinist for about 3 years, press brake, lazer, saw etc... interested in developing more into CNC, but wondered about being a toolmaker? Also maybe robotics? Lots of options honestly, I want to feel better about what I'm diving into before I do it.

At my new work place the company mostly does repetitive works and run proven program. They have two multi axis lathes with sub spindle and two 5 axis mills.

Me being a new joinee, I have been asked to pitch in and run at least two machines and for long cycle parts run three machines.

With my previous work place I was running one machine and programming for three machines.

With this new job. I am not longer have to program parts but need to set up jobs and keep the spindle running.

Under such work conditions, how can be efficient in running multiple machines without making bad parts and keep the machine running as in how to keep at three or two machines running.

Would love to hear your experience and advise how to do it.

I recently picked up a bandsaw and it didn’t come with tires, would it be worth putting on Urethane bandsaw tires? I want the cleanest cut as possible as I can get with this tool.

Hello there I am an electrician and I have to drill 70, 7/8” holes into rain water litres to install heat trace. The rain water litre is a tube having a wall thickness of a quarter inch. And 1.5” inside diameter. What is the best method to drill this? Hole saw, Twist Bit, step bit, carbide, bi-metal? I am a little out of my element here.

I am a machinist for a reasonably large contract manufacturing company and while the pay isn't bad at 32/hr they are crazy strict on no overtime (few exceptions but it's at the whim of the GM) I've got the time/energy and lack of other commitments to pick up a second job. I've only been at this company for a little over a year and up until recently I've enjoyed the job and had a promising upward trajectory but I did not get the position I had been fighting for so having to reassess as outside of that position there really isn't any growth to be had (there is one position above my current roll and our engineering manager said to expect that upgrade in roll as a psudo consolation prize for not getting the manager position).

On the other side I have been talking to a few friends at other companies to potentially leave my current job but at only 1 year I feel that may be too soon. 2 of the likeliest options would require me to move (one is about 2 hours away (Greenville sc) and the other is about 6 hours (Huntsville Al)from my current location) both would likely pay 25-30k more (hopefully).

I am only 3.5-4 years into my career so trying to decide whether to ride out the current job and get a second source of income is the right choice or jump to another company I'm having a hard time deciding what is better worth the time/effort.

Is this a viable option to strip paint from parts? I have a side gig I do refurbishing parts...generally I get these in rough shape and soak them in acetone, then scrape paint off with a razor blade, and wire wheel any bits left.

I broke my wrist and cannot do this process now, or for the near future, but if I can get these stripped, I can do the rest of what I need to do to get these finished and ready for sale.

Sand blasting is another option, but my compressor is tiny and won't handle this (tried before), and I don't want to buy a new compressor + media blasting cabinet.

If something like this sounds feasible, what kind of media should I use? Suggestions on a unit to purchase? I honestly have no idea what these are made of, some sort of SS I'd guess? Idk. But if they bang against each other, they won't damage each other. They're very solid.

Example pic of said parts. They're about ~2.5" wide and height (L-R as pic shows up varies from 1.5-3.5". If I could do multiple pairs at once, that'd be amazing.

https://preview.redd.it/kxetu4uxn44e1.jpg?width=3060&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ebd8fb437091ebd6f175bf2c77c9b859f78e2a34

Looking for work In or Around LA county, iv worked with my fair share of smart and crazy that use the term "tittys" when a job came out beautiful as a surface grinder. iv seen HASS catch fire with the boss bitching about productivity. cheep managers who pretend to be on your side. high on weed supervisors rallying the 4AM crew

hear are some of my personal proud tools iv worked with in my 5 years. book is "new"

I'm still green but serious on learning this field, I'm no green button pusher

powers of reddit guide me to aerospace 22/hr lead.

On the inserts, the od of the threads on them are .366in when measured with just a caliper on the outside (not sure if there's a better way to do it) and it's a 24 tpi thread, I couldn't find anything like it is this just a metric thread?

It be digital 1,2, and 3 inch micrometer and a 0-6 inch digital depth mic. All four are mitutoyo. Im trying to get them to understand that tools for the trade are not cheap unless I go with poor quality ones I'll be replacing constantly.