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I did my best with my limited experience to research machines in the 4-5 axes range and I am finding it difficult to fine a machine with my specifications.

-Specs | Currently looking for a machine for personal use as a hobbyists for milling wood, plastic, and/or soft metals. Preferably with a working size of 1 inch cubed, but can go as small as 0.5 inch cubed. Cutting tolerance can be .1mm or better. Goal is figures, game prices, jewelry, or other decorative designs.

For a 4 axis machine I'm looking for spindle style on the 4th axis as this would allow me to get as close to my desired outcome. Getting a 3 axis with a 4th axis accessory is fine as well.

The 5 axes machine that I'm currently looking at would be the "Pocket NC V2-10".

As for price, preferably less than 10k.

Machine size would be best on the smaller size.

-Conclusion / tl;dr | The purpose of this thread is to identify other machines similar to the "Pocket NC V2-10" with a small size and working area and the ability to cut soft metals. Wood and plastics are fine as well. The machine will not be used for commercial use and is intended for my own enjoyment.

Edit- formating because mobile

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I have this door handle on a sliding patio door and it keeps breaking where the screws attach to the handle. I'm on my 3rd handle in 18 months. I've tried to find another brand to fit my door but havent had any success.

I've been a lurker on this sub for a little while now and I wonder if it would be possible to CNC this exact handle out of something far more durable? I'm not looking to save money. Im looking for a door handle that doesn't break from regular use.

If it is possible, how would you suggest I go about finding someone to create this for me?

https://www.swisco.com/Mortise-Handle-Set/pd/Patio-Glass-Door-Replacement-Locking-Handles/82-080

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I got my HY6040 5 axis machine a few days ago. Getting it together was pretty quick and straight forward. Unfortunately the software was missing. The seller did get that to me pretty quick via download. Setting up the software was a bit of a pain. things were missing. Some pieces were in the zip file multiple times. The files were not well organized and the Mach3 profile that was supplied was not quite right. On the second day, I sorted out getting all the axis moving properly but the spindle would not work through the software. Another day and the seller got me another profile where the spindle worked but I had to blend it with my original profile to get everything working. Even though a bit of a pin, in the end, I'm happy with the machine and the support I got from the seller. I guess sorting out these issues gave me a deeper understanding of how everything works.

As far as the machine goes, It's sturdy enough, I would have added a dozen or so more screws to hold it together. I think you just need to have realistic expectations. ( I have pushed my Sheline mill pretty hard at times and it does flex )

I decided to use Mach3 so I bought my own license for it.

My setup,

HY6040 5 axis
Peladn mini PC with win 11 and 10" touch display ( I need to mount the display to the machine )
Mach3
DeskProto

I think it will work out well. I did a test on some wood just to see it work.

https://preview.redd.it/m5w0e33ejdrc1.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5cd59011a3a7b7b744e7ae13ec3e53312407197b

https://preview.redd.it/rcqlg53ejdrc1.jpg?width=2448&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=902245cf7a0b5836aef9528da63937f0abf52ac7

https://preview.redd.it/azbaf93ejdrc1.jpg?width=3264&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d0013b51df60d8e23cfecad1cb48fa9c079d8e5d

I got my first CNC machine, it's a Fadal 3016L and I went to run my first part and I crashed the machine into the fixture because I had my fixture offsets wrong and I quickly hit the e stop after seeing some sparks. When I released the e-stop the jog button didn't seem to enable the motors so I turned off the machine and turned it back on again and moved the machine away from the fixture and turned it off. The next day, I turned on the machine and it was stuck on the Fadal logo screen. When I removed the e-stop I could hear the drives enable and the Fadal logo disappeared and the machine said "updating memory" but then went back to the logo screen. When I remove the e-stop and press the jog button the amplifiers power on for maybe 10 seconds and then shut themselves off, while they are on, the e-stop LED is also on. Does anyone have any recommendations on what I can try to fix this? I'm just new to this and could use a little help.

I do not have a plasma table but I have a small steel plate project coming up. I would like to mill the pieces out on my 6090 (2ft X 3 ft) router mill with a 2 Kw spindle. I could not measure any run out on it (<0.0001")

It would be 1/8 inch mild steel plate. Maybe 500 total inches of cut.

I am thinking of using a 1/8 inch bit to cut the parts but would like to hear your recommendations for bit size and milling strategy. Am willing to invest in a good quality tool and use proper speeds and feeds. I am am in no rush to max the cutting speed and will use mist coolant. I could also move up to a larger bit. My main concern is to not break bits and decent it longevity. ..... or maybe use lots of cheap bits.

Thanks for your reply.

Hi all, I am a complete noob in CNC and wanted to dip my toes in by buying one of these Genmitsu 3018 cnc routers available for about 250€.

My main use case would be pcb prototyping and I was wondering if anyone had any experience using this router for this task. I am sure it can handle the standard dip package sizes but I would need to know if it's usable with smd type packages for processors and ics.

I occasionally need to take measurements and I appreciate having a nice caliper. But I don't take them often enough to need an expensive Mitutoyo one. I understand their value but that's quite a bit to spend for something I'd use sparingly.

But IS there another option out there where I can SHUT OFF the Caliper? The one I got off Amazon, some cheap $10 one, the battery drains fast. It doesn't turn off. So something without or with greatly reduced phantom drain is my primary motivator. It's useless to need your caliper, reach for it, and it's dead!!

Having a problem!

I am having issues with the depth of my cuts not being accurate. For instance, when cutting a tray out a piece of wood with a depth of .96 , i set the profile cut to .965 to get a good pass through. but for some reason the cut only ends up being around .4 - .5. Obviously there is a problem but i feel like ive diagnosted mostly everything. Ive verified ive set the correct messurements. Ive made sure ive zero'd my X, Y, and Z correctly. I made sure all of my cut depths are correct.

The only solution ive been able to find is to make my cut depth deeper and deeper to get the correct depth i want, but doing that consistantly everytime is impossible.

Specs: Im using a next wave cnc shark with a bosch router. im using V-carve for my programming.

Hi. This part is pulling out. I'm drilling a part holding by half inch I have a .6 inch spacer behind it 4 inch od about 2.5" sticking out. The part keeps pulling outta the pvc chuck jaws. I'd use aluminum jaws but the plastic indents. 100rpms .01 feed .25 peck.... howndo you guys hold plastic efficiently? Should I slow it down? Plastic and lathe noob here.... Edit: 1000rpms not 100rpms

Hey guys, I am looking for help because I am confused about the hole size/drill size to use in order to calculate feeds & rpms & z depth & also drill diameter for a 8-32 tap drill. I know the major diameter is 0.164'' so I used that to calculate my spot face & the spot rpm, feed, z depth & dwell but now I am just confused on how to find out the hole size to do the rest of my calculations for the next operations after spot drilling. I'm just asking to get a better understanding on if the hole size is the same as the major diameter or would I use a different number & also how would I figure out the hole diameter from the tap drill chart? I am new to CNC programming & am currently learning how to do it by hand, this is why I'm confused. Also I need help on understanding the hole size for a 8-32 cold form roll tap drill. Would it be the same for both? Sorry I am just super confused about hole size for the drill & also the roll tap. I guess I am not making the connection/understanding between it but any help would be appreciated so I can understand this shit better.

Does anyone have a template I can use to record cycle time improvements made by machinist? I want to start incentivizing my Operators and Machinist for identifying improvements with CNC Programs that substantially reduce cycle times. I'm wondering if anyone in the community already has something similar to what I'm talking about, or at least has some input into the type of information I should be gathering.

Also does anyone have any ideas or a proven process that assure Machinist are not creating Rogue programs that our different to our Master Program. I'm having an issue with quality and repeatability for parts we've already manufactured before but I'm starting to find out often times we have multiple programs with different edits/modifications being used by machinist rather than the original Master Program.

Chime in...

Anyone know any local CNC repair companies in the Memphis area? I have been using Morris south but they are not very responsive.

Good evening everyone, does anyone have experience using camworks for cylinder head porting. If so, how do you program it? I've been trying to get it to work with little luck. My primary experience with the software is 3 axis.

Thank you