Hi all,

A few years ago, I moved to South Africa for work, and now I’m planning to move back to Belgium. I’d like to bring my old Land Cruiser 75 (Pick-up/Bakkie 1999 model, with the 4.2D 1HZ engine) to Belgium as well.

I was wondering if anyone here has experience registering a South African vehicle in Belgium? What’s the process like, and what costs should I expect? As far as I know it’s only the shipping costs as I’m exempted from import tax because of the fact that it’s part of a relocation.

I’m also curious about the annual road tax in Belgium as a lot of things changed after 2023 (I’m not able to register it as a light vehicle or oldtimer anymore).

Thanks a lot!

I'm in a tough situation, my car was running perfectly yesterday just a little down on power cause I'm over 10k feet. But I went and did a hike and the temperature dropped into the freezing I belief and now the car cranks very strongly, but will not start. I do not smell gas at the exhaust which makes me believe it's a fuel related issue. I did put some crappy gas in which I think could cause the issue if there was water in it and now it's frozen. I have a good amount of tools, fluids, extra better gas. Am I screwed? Anyone know of some off road recovery services in bishop?

What is the Best place to get seat covers for the hz or what’s the best eBay covers (bench seat 75 series)

Had a quick run out to Stockton Beach in NSW, awesome.

Looking at a LX 470 2004 at 250k miles.

$10500 but willing to go down $8500 considering the cons found by the pre purchase inspection.

Is this still a good deal? I’m looking at like $2-4k for suspension work and that’s not even touching master cylinder or rear differential work.

Does this kind of work just come with the territory in this age/mileage?

Any help is appreciated. TYIA.

Pros: Engine is humming. Sunbelt truck with no rust. Interior is good/very good.

Cons: Clear coat is damaged from the sun around the windows and roof. Rear differential clunks when switching gears. Mechanic diagnosed worn bushings so recommends suspension haul in next year or so. Leak under master cylinder brake unit.

I have a low km 80series which is starting to show a few rust spots coming through to the surface causing staining and visual concerns. Seeking recommendations to best treatment process as I have lots of time on my hands and can't come at $20k for a pro respray. Would like to bring it to a point where I could get a decent wrap applied. Appreciate any thoughts.

Hey all,

Video of cranking - https://imgur.com/a/APaCp6H

I purchased this 94 cruiser last month. 240k miles. been sitting for 8 years. The gas that was in there is pure varnish now and I can imagine it's filled to the rim with rust. The owner passed away so the son sold it. Don't think it was super well maintained. Weird stuff like fuses mismatched random tidbits missing here and there.

Long story short, I'm trying to keep my investment into this low as I have no idea if it runs or not. Obviously I need to drop the fuel tank and clean it out but don't want to invest the time to do that if it's dead anyways. Here's what I've done

• fresh oil and filter (no coolant in oil)
• dropped a tbs of 2 stroke oil in each of the cylinders from the spark plug ports. Let it sit overnight and rotated by hand. rotates freely
• checked coolant - no oil
• I made a temp gas tank (2 gal portable tank with fuel pump sitting in it. Have the pump feeding right before the fuel filter and have the return line routing to back into the portable tank. I couldn't get power from the fuel pump harness so I wired it to the battery with a 30a fuse.)
• I have new spark plugs but I haven't installed them yet as I didn't want to have them soaked in the oil. I'll probably try swapping those next.

When I went to crank it for the first time, it cranked no problem but didn't start. Checked spark - nothing. I realized the CEL wasn't coming on when ign is at On. Headlight wasn't working either but horn and din lamps worked. I replaced the fusible link, CEL comes on now, headlight works.

Cranked it over again and with fuel but this time it sounded very unhappy and seemed to be fighting itself. I stopped feeding it fuel and after cranking it over some more it returned to a non-strained crank.

It seems to only struggle when there's fuel.

I could really use some advice on where I can look to narrow it down. No engine codes because it hasn't actually ran.

https://imgur.com/a/jLRGe37

Last album of the LC on this beautiful fall day. Gonna miss this one.

Long time reddit lurker. Thought I'd drop a pic of my 86 hj61. Near 500k km and going strong. Love the 12HT it's got. Fairly stock except for 33's and a 100 series turbo.

https://preview.redd.it/vnq2e7aj8vzd1.jpg?width=2041&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b3e9239ccd953fd8b452ece77dc99e901b2a747

I know I know, check ih8 mud but I was just looking for more insight and opinions.

Rack and pinion is leaking like a damn sieve, and I’m finally going to replace it. Not looking forward to the work cause it seems daunting but it’s a necessity at this point.

My question is what are the best aftermarket options for the rack? Oem is looking like 500-750 and some other aftermarket are running 250-300. I’ve been pretty diligent about replacing most things with oem considering they all lasted 26 years before shitting out but this one is a little pricey for me atm but not unobtainable.

Anybody have any experience and or tips to replacing the rack? I might have a lift lined up so I wouldn’t have to do it on jack stands as well which seems like one of the biggest hurdles.

Are new tie rods recommended when the rack is replaced?

I understand I’ll need alignment as well after.

Thanks in advance

Hello Gurus of the internet,

I’m looking at a 2006 gxl 100 series has 1hdfte manual with 390000 on the odo

Question: old mate has put in the ad he has put a new head, injectors, turbo, radiator and timing belt on. By the looks of it all by a reputable mechanic. I’m going to ask about whether the water pump was replaced as well.

Should I be wary? Strange for these things to have a head done prior to 500k I get the injectors, turbo and timing on that mileage but Anything to take note of I’m going to look at it in a few days times any advice would be greatly appreciated it’s a lot of Kay’s but the price is right compared to a lot of others out there.

I love the 100s coming out of a 76gxl to a grandpa spec for family reasons

Many thanks!

Hopefully a new fte owner!

I had my new LC lifted with Wescott preload, and added new Wildpeak at4 285/75/17. Mileage has dropped considerably, about 30%. Anyone else have thos much in milage drop?