/r/LandRover Rules:

Hey, how do I get through that stopper to pour BG diesel additive, I do not want to force it and break it. Any hints? Range Rover cca 2011.

Thanks.

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I know each one has ups and downs but which old discoveries/engines have the best reliabity

Guys, i need a smart, no bs, honest, thorough, detail oriented mechanic or motor engineer who has the time and patience to go through the suspension system and get it ready for offroading, it has 2 new rear bags, valve block rebuild, new shocks and giving me the eas error, i’ve read all the technical guides on landyzone in detail but i’m visiting scotland and have no tools… i’ve had it with a local “land rover specialist” shop who can’t even clear an alarm fault…who do you all trust? Have the ‘tow it anywhere in the uk’ breakdown cover so want to find the right place once and for all thanks for your advice.

I'm currently driving a Porsche Cayenne. We're expecting our first child and have three dogs and need something more spacious and practical - the cayenne is not going to cut it. Recently, I've been looking at the Defender 130 as something that has enough space for a newborn, plus my wife and I, and our dogs. I wanted to see for folks that are driving it what are some of your opinion on the new Defender? Have you been enjoying it? Is it a comfy ride? How's the space? For reference I'm 6'2" so I already take up a lot of room between sitting in the driver seat or passanger seat.

Hi All!

We recently picked up a loaded 2024 P400 Carpathean Gray Sport. Love the thing so far, it feels like you’re floating on a cloud driving the thing. It’s fully loaded as far as I can tell, but there’s one thing I can’t figure out. Is there only one ambient lighting color? Most new vehicles have an option to change ambient lighting, but this car has one color, warm white or yellow or whatever it is.

Is there a secret meny I don’t know about lol?

Hello i am new to land rovers, but not old cars, i drive a 1986 modify fusca. I want to restore with my siblings the car. This is a model 52 without a engine, So that do you all think??

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I saw the new-gen Range Rover today and had to look really hard to tell it was even a Range Rover! Looks pretty good but the badging is a bit odd in this particular spec lol

so i’m only 24, and on my 4th car. my cars have always been leases as that’s what my mom did and my mom gave me her car mid-lease for my first car. i currently have a 2022 jeep wrangler. always have had jeeps. but, i’ve always wanted a range rover ever since i was a teenager, still want one. i went with my boyfriend to our local land rover dealership the other day to look because my wrangler lease is up in january. i was looking at the discovery sport, because the sticker price is cheaper than my current car, or even some of their pre-owned cars. im paying too much a month for this wrangler, and it’s killing me while being in nursing school. this car really did stick out, and i really loved it, going to test drive it this weekend. but, im hoping someone who’s owned land rovers or range rovers for a while can honestly tell me if they’re worth it.

I’m currently in the market and looking for a Land Rover Defender. I’ve had other luxury SUVs and still have one currently but I’m looking for a new daily driver and at my local Land Rover dealership they had a few options of new Defender 110s on the lot for around 75k-102k. Having only owned Mercedes and Porsche vehicles. I’m new to Land Rover. When I went to the dealership, they let me test drive and showed me a 2023 Land Rover defender S 110 with 13k miles on it with a retail price of $77,945 but currently has it listed as a past service vehicle for $65,999. I was told that it is a CPO that has a four year warranty 50,000 miles that then turns into a five year unlimited mile warranty from when it was first sold. This also offers an extension of bumper-to-bumper manufacture warranty. Is this a good deal and or should I negotiate off the price a little more? I’m not in a rush to buy a new SUV as I have until the end of the year. Should I jump on this or hold tight?

Hello everyone, hoping to get some insight on something I noticed driving my LR4 the other day. I’m in the US and have the SCV6 with 8HP70 trans. I got into the car to move it back into my driveway after being parked on the street for a day and had a check engine light for some sort of camshaft code “circuit B” (foolishly cleared the code before getting a picture or writing it down). The vehicle occasionally may run slightly rougher than I expect while in gear (D or R and foot on brake), has NO rattle or timing chain noise that I’m aware of or can hear either at cold/hot startup or while revving the engine. There is a loose heat shield on the transmission that I can hear rattle sometimes at 1100rpm under load (essentially lugging the engine under light throttle) and have been able to crawl under and verify as loose.

I wanted to know if this sounds like a timing chain issue or a camshaft position sensor going out. One is obviously easier than the other to repair and I have checked in the oil fill cap the tension of the timing chain with a pick (had a LR tech tell me this was a way to see condition of the chains at least on one side) and they were nice and tight. The car runs wells and is coming up on its 112,000 mile service, in which I planned to do spark plugs, fluids, and filters. It currently has 103k and change on the odometer. No warning lights or codes currently on. I’d love to hear some input of what I might be experiencing. This is my first LR4 but I’m not new to Land Rovers, any help is welcome.

Edit: the code is P0366: camshaft position sensor B - circuit/range performance(bank 1)

Ok so I was looking at an 2016 LR4 with 108k on the clock for about $21k out the door. I’m going to pass.

Now I’m looking at a 2020 Range Rover Sport HST from Carmax. Something 54k miles and $53k. Has two keys. I’m getting the warranty (I have no idea how much that will cost).

Checked Carfax, no wrecks or title issue. Couple of service records listed. No service records in the online service history.

I had it shipped to my location for $249. I’m going to try to get a 24 hour test drive, because I want to do a PPI at an indie shop.

Anything else I should know or be thinking about here?

Can I use an extractor to change the oil in this particular engine?

Also should I go ahead and get a scan tool for this thing while I’m at it?

Thanks in advance for your help.

I’ve done a lot of research as to what this may be but wanted to ask for feedback. I have a moderately loud clicking noise when the car is idling in combination of being warmed up. When I start it cold there’s no clicking. The engine runs fine once I accelerate. No notable issues after that. It does need a transmission oil change which I’m doing this week but other than that nothing going on. Any thoughts?💭

I miss my Disco, LR3 and even the LR4 I gave up so I’m back on the hunt and am supposed to go see a 2013 LR4 tomorrow. My last LR didn’t have this (see photo) can you tell me why it has 11-30-2009 if it’s a 2013 vehicle?

Just bought an old 1996 Discovery and I'm totally in love HOWEVER I suspect I must have triggered the anti-theft system because about 50% of the time when I try to start the engine, it just won't go. Just a clicking/beeping noise. Sometimes it will, sometimes it won't. If it doesn't, I have to either sit around and let the car run for some time or I jiggle random locks and knobs until something works and I'm able to start the engine again. How do I resolve this issue or work around it? I'm hauling my one year old around town, I can't exactly have my car refusing to start half the time.

Hey everyone I have a 2007 LR3 today I was attempting to calibrate the suspension through my gap tool and after selecting the ‘test valves’ option and messing around with it, it lowered completely to the bumpstops. I have attempted to do the manual suspension calibration, when I selected that all 4 were at 250. Which seems to be the limit although Ive seen on forums that it should be at 493 in the front and 483 in the rear, but it simply will not go below 150 or above 250. I try the guided calibration, when I get to the first corner, tire, whatever you wanna call it, it says to increase to 493 mm (# might be wrong forgot to take a pic) but I cant. I press both the up and down arrows and nothing changes. I can hear the compressor going but nothing moves. Ive worked with this car before its simply just all of these numbers that are a bit confusing to me.

I do have one photo of what the calibration screen looks like, I genuinely cannot explain it tho, I believe the center number is the ‘new’ number? But then why are they negative?

UPDATE: Disconnected battery and removed fuse to allow it to reset, nothing happened. Going back in to attempt the guided calibration, once I go through each corner and go to allow it, it says operation failed E 1. I click on re-enable EAS, click allow, I hear the chime and then it says to go up or down on the height lever in center console. I should have mentioned this in my original post, I have the RED suspension fault light, the codes say that each height sensor is not reading. I check the voltage of them and they are low low.

Just posted on ebay. I ran these for a few months then sold the truck. THey looked great with the Compomotives.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/196392258360

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2006 LR3, I believe my tires are cupped, I have a vibration that runs the full speed range from 60 to 120 km/h. What is the first thing I should be checking. Everything seems fine.

cant start my l322 2005 has been sitting for a while but sparks are sparking and fuel pump is working should i take apart the fuel injection system?

Little Man’s bday today

Hi everyone, I’m looking to get an LR3 I found one with 187k miles on it and the seller says he has all the receipts for the work he’s done on it including the brakes and new air suspension. My question is what kind of questions should I ask him when I go see it? I’ve always wanted a Land Rover since the Discovery 2 came out but steered away because everyone said they were so unreliable. I did my research and I think that’s just people who don’t want to put the car into owning a great beast of a vehicle. Any advice would be helpful. I do plan on getting it inspected before buying but I feel like it’s a steal for 6k. Am I wrong?

Hey guys, just bought my first Rover. 2017 Discovery Sport. My first mistake was purchasing this vehicle from Carvana. They definitely did not inspect it because it already has a multitude of issues and is in the shop. Anyways, we didn’t realize this at first but the wheel lock is missing from the truck. Carvana won’t help me at all with it. The repair shop said they can’t break it off without damaging my rim. I know I can call a Rover dealer, but are there any universal wheel locks that I could possibly purchase online? Cheers everyone!

A while back I bought some black wheel arches for my LandRover 90, however I’m not sure on the chunky shape and design, my wheels are smaller and compared with the fenders it looks odd. I like the style of the current classic wheel arches but with the black colour any ideas? I would appreciate any suggestions *I’ve attached a picture of the arches ⬆️

There are external devices available that can add Carplay functionality to any car’s integrated media center. These devices are designed to be plug-and-play, making them easy to install and use. For instance, there are portable Carplay units that connect to a car’s AUX input for audio, and they draw power from a standard car power outlet.

Has anyone here tried this on their Land Rover and if so, what would you recommend?

This particular example is perhaps just an adaptor for wireless connection but it's pretty much the same idea, a simple dongle that connects to the car.

https://amzn.eu/d/f7yewXA

The example they have in the following article is an entire screen, whereas I'm simply looking for just a dongle like the example above but with full portable carplay functionality.

https://9to5google.com/2022/09/23/android-auto-add-unit-car/

Context

Got my first ever car, a 2016 Discovery Sport.

The Media Centre is ass and is really my only complaint about the car. The lack of car play and the constant Bluetooth interruption make it a major inconvenience. The satnav is also horrible. Basically everything wrong with the car is with the digital stuff.

I read some of the threads on this sub about a device that can be installed behind the screen to add carplay functionality but that requires a specialist who practically takes the entire car console apart to install the electronic component. It's also expensive AF costing almost 2k on average.

Searched and don't see anyone addressing this yet. I'm scoping out a 2016 LR4 with 108k miles on it. I have a PPI schedule for Monday at a very respectible family owner indie shop that specialized in Land Rover.

The LR4 is 1 owner, always serviced at the dealership (according to CarFax). I checked here: https://osh.landrover.com/ but there is nothing listed at all.

CarFax only show that it was at the dealership for service 2-3 times year. It only show what must be some of the oil changes. It does show very regular tire and brake replacement.

Since it was services at the same local dealership for it's whole life to date, any chance they would provide me with those service records in a print out or something?

Based on the CarFax, I see the following items have been replaced at that local dealership (in addition to regular tires, brakes, and oil changes) over it's life:

Looking for input on a Velar Lease (or any questions I should be considering). Appreciate anything you can share..first time leasing.

2024 Velar 250 S $63,391 MSRP $60,396 Selling Price

12k Miles | $1,890 DAS | $955.66/month

I’m thinking I can get that selling price down a little lower. By my math the RV is about .59 (don’t have MF). I understand these things don’t have the most optimal numbers but want to get the best I can.

Thanks!