Looking to do a little remodel on my gen2. Planning on taking front fenders off and changing the headlight to a circular style. Wondering how they do on the highway without fenders. Also without a windscreen?

What rear springs are you running on a Gen 3? Looking to upgrade the stock spring.

Front brakes started squeaking Saturday while riding. Got home and took my wheel off to find this. Bottom piston isn’t moving. Sunday was too nice not to ride so I did 100 miles with a lot of off-road without touching my front brakes lol.

New pads ordered but could this be an air bubble in the bottom piston or is it something to do with the grease fitting? Tried to bleed my brakes last night but I stripped out one of the screws on the reservoir, it was in there, need to reverse bit pull it out and replace it

Any idea on the purpose of this spring? Previous owner said it went to carburetor but that doesn’t sound right to me? 2016 klr 650

Hi, I have a 2024 klr 650. And really want to get better at wheelies. I can pop it up pretty high in first gear but any gear after that is almost impossible. Is it possible to shift up in a wheelie to keep the bike going? Cuz I keep running out of gas in 1st. I’ve seen countless stunt videos but people rarely explain these phenomenons on a klr. Thank you.

I have 24 klr 650 adv changed the oil at 600 miles. When do I need to service tye bike again?

I was looking around and I know that Eagle Mike and Schnitz Racing do 685+ kits for the KLR, but I found MTech which does some of the same work. Any good reviews?? I've dealt with both Eagle Mike and Schnitz and had good luck with both, but MTech seems to have a bit more complete product.

Had to take off the exhaust header since it developed a crack, but I had some trouble when trying to take it off. The acorn nuts on the studs holding it in place were very, very rusted, alongside with the top of the studs, so much so that I was afraid I might break either the stud or the nut when trying to take it off. Fortunately, that wasn't the case, but I just couldn't get the nut off due to the rust. Instead, in both cases, the stud came out along with the nut. The lower part of the studs (that was inside the hole) looks fine, without any signs of rust, but the upper part is covered in thick rust, and since I can't even take the nuts off I don't feel confident reusing them.
I have the OEM part number for them (172G0822) but I'm wondering if there are any non-OEM alternatives that may offer better corrosion resistance? I saw some stainless steel ones available on eBay, but I'm not sure if it's a good idea since it's gonna be weaker than whatever steel alloy the OEM ones are made of.

Got this ‘17 for a great deal.

I am buying a gen 2 klr with 30k miles. Previous owner has owned the bike since 2018, apparently serviced at a dealer in regular intervals. Should I be worried about to counterbalance tensioner?

Does anyone know of a fully assembly/build video or series of videos for a gen 1 klr?

I was doing valve lash on my 08 klr and sent a bore scope down into the cylinder. once all the carbon burns off now that the carb is clean and rejetted how can i tell if a 685,692, etc. has been done? any visual cues on the top piston? sit there a way to get at the bottom of the piston with a bore scope without tearing everything apart? if I'm tearing the head off to measure the bore I'm not gonna worry about measuring the bore and just going to jump into the 692 kit as well as a port and polish on the head. someone please save me hours of labor lol.

So I’ve looked closer at the bike and it’s got more damage than I thought. The whole right side of the bike is a little bent up. This was somewhat known when I got it, but only the handlebar was initially noticeable. But Some parts are less noticeable than others. Handle bar and rear brake lever are a non issue, easily replaced. What I’ve found that’s a little more disturbing is the lower right side mount point for the fairing is crushed into distortion. Even more disturbing than that is the bracket that holds the instrument cluster and appears to also be mounting points for the front cowling pieces and turn signals, is also bent on the right side. So even if I did shell out all the money to get the 3 replacement cowling pieces plus the windshield, and the side fairings, it seems a far stretch that anything on the right side would fit at all. I’m thinking about just taking the front bracket off all together and starting from scratch. There’s plenty of headlight options as long as that that bracket and cluster of the way. I’m hoping there are some KLR riders that have first hand experience that they could share regarding after market digital speedometer units installed on their bikes. The ones I’m looking at claim to be universal for any motorcycle and includes odometer, tachometer, even water temp. Just seems easier and cheaper to go that route than to replace not only the fairings and cowlings, but the bracket that holds the cluster. And that’s not to mention the lower fairing mount point that would most likely need to be cut off the frame and fabrication would be needed in order to install replacement fairings. All that is a daunting and expensive route that will keep me off the road far longer than I dare to even imagine. Open to suggestions here.

https://m.facebook.com/groups/33893502388/permalink/10162374787717389/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Apparently, when I added superglue, I put a touch of it into the sleeve as well as the grip and it got in between the bar and the sleeve and so that’s why it was sticky

Had to get it off the ground somehow lol

Found a shovel today that'd make a perfect 1-2 gen skidplate

Is there like a parts list or diagram for all the parts to the klr? The one I picked up is in pieces and I want to make sure I have everything before I start building it.

I got 3 inch lowering links for my gen 1, how hard is it to install them? Anyone willing to write up a short description of doing it?