To start, I was a mechanical engineer for 6 years at Lennox (still work for them, but just in management now.) I worked strictly on commercial RTU’s, which are obviously quite a bit different than residential systems, so I’m not as much of an expert there.

I recently bought a new house. The home is 2155 sqft - 1750 downstairs and 405 upstairs in a bonus room above the garage. We are planning to renovate the bonus room to our new master bed+bathroom. The bonus room is ducted currently and the whole home operates on one single stage 4 ton 14 SEER system.

For comfort reasons (I live in North Texas with plenty of 105 degree days) and so that my electric bill won’t be through the roof, I want the master suite to have its own HVAC system.

Here’s the question: I know a ductless mini split would work great, but my wife refuses to use one as she doesn’t want to see the indoor unit on the wall/ceiling of our beautiful new bedroom and I can’t blame her. So, should I go with a 1.5T ducted split system? I know the golden rule is 1T:400 sqft so this might be a bit much. Or, do I get a 2T fully variable speed system which could essentially spend most of its time running at half speed/ 1 ton cooling?

Luckily I can get the units at cost, so price is not a big issue for me.

Thanks and let me know your thoughts!

So i just finished my first year of college for hvac, the only problem is... my license is currently suspended for a four month period. I racked up too many points because of my heavy foot and i paid the price (im dumb i know) I just wanna know if its over for me or if there's still a slim possibility that some time after it gets un-suspended that i'll be able to get a job or if i should just start looking at another career path

Just had an HVAC installed a little over a week ago. Did not work after the install, so they had a senior tech come out the next day to get it working (bad overflow sensor). Got one good day of use then it died again. Had a tech come out the next day and found loose wiring at the outdoor unit. Died again yesterday and now I’m waiting on another tech. I believe the new disconnect they installed is making bad contact. All 3 times the unit didn’t work, air would blow, but heating and cooling didn’t work.

When would you consider this a lemon install and request removal and have another company do the work?

Any advice given these measurements? Said my unit is probably leaking refrigerant. It is an older unit. Seemed like an honest person, but wanted to get the opinion of folks here.

I’m a homeowner/builder in over his head a bit. I have a chiltrix high efficiency heat pump for my heating/ cooling and domestic hot water. Two compressors outside, one air handler inside, and a radiant floor tank. I rent my space on weekends so I need to make the thermostat controls idiot proof.

I can use some help. I have the Honeywell RTH6580WF thermostats in the bedrooms and bathroom to only control the radiant floor in each of these room.

I have the Honeywell TH8321WF1001 to control the radiant floor in the main space as well as the air handler for forced air heat (as the back up) and it also controls the force air for cooling the entire house including the bedrooms/ bathroom.

My issue is that the bedrooms/bathroom radiant floor is accessible by renters to put in heating while the main thermostat is in cooling (which would run cold water through my floor and cause my floors to sweat).

What I’ve done so far- I have a relay that turns off the thermostats in the bedrooms/bathroom when the air handler is activated in cooling mode. The issue with this is that if the set point is already reached when switched into cooling, the relay doesn’t activate. And once the set point is reached after being activated, the thermostats in the bedrooms turn back on and are able to be used. So the relay only turns off the thermostats in the bedrooms/bathroom while the cold air is actively blowing.

It’s a complicated system and I’m so close to getting it right.

Any ideas how to turn off and keep the thermostats in the bedrooms/bathrooms off when choosing cooling mode on the main thermostat even if the set point is reached? Or is there another solution that I am missing?

Getting the error E003 on my navian tankless boiler. If I kill the power it resets and runs fine. Before I hire some guy to come price gouge me I'd like to at least understand what's wrong.

Does anyone have advice, troubleshooting steps, things to check or information that could help me?

Thanks folk's!

Hey, i saw a window unit on sale yesterday saying the annual running cost was about $55 thats less than what my unit costs to run per month. How misleading is that information? The unit i have is about 20 years old, so im thinking it would probably be cheaper in the long run to get a new one. Im renting and its a building from the 1800's cant get anything other than a window unit, or a unit with a hose that goes to the window. Any thoughts or advice? Would be greatly appreciated.

Trane furnace for three story house. I believe that a thermostat in the basement is there to close the duct to there based on the temp. About 6 months ago, it started this high pitched whistling noise. I can manually change the duct door and the whistling goes away.

I'm trying to open up this unit to clean it. Removing the cover and the filter are no problem, but after removing 4 front-facing screws the face plate still won't budge. I don't want to damage the control unit by prying too forcefully, and have a particularly awful wall blocking part of the window, so I'm hoping this can be done without taking the unit out.

I can't find any videos or threads for this particular model, and it doesn't seem to match other GE model how-to's for locations of screws/etc. Any chance anyone knows how to open this thing up?

I'm a homeowner, and we're weeks away from doing rough-in; framing is going nicely. I'm currently slated to have a ducted mini-split heat pump system providing primary HVAC needs for the home, plus a Zehnder ERV to help keep air moving.

My HVAC designer and I talked through the ducted mini-split at length, so I'm very happy there. The ERV, on the other hand, was designed by the vendor rep, without a conversation (they looked at the plans and did the design), so I didn't have an opportunity to talk through things with them, leaving me with questions.

The design they did has 'supply' rooms and 'extract' rooms - bathrooms, kitchens, things like that, have extract. Rooms like bedrooms and such tend to have supply. Each room has only one ERV register per room, no matter the size. Total CFM is either 12 or 24 for all the rooms save the kitchen, which extracts 36 CFM.

I'm specifically wondering:

• Is/are there ever situations where you'd want both supply and extract in the same room? Specifically (for example) the bathrooms, which seem like having a supply on one corner, and an extract on the other, might really help keep air moving and dry? Or my office, which is otherwise super closed (jump ducts and undercuts both mean noise from the house coming in), so a supply and an extract seems healthier?
• Is/are there situations where you'd want to break such low airflow into two registers, again, just for air mixing?
• Does the location of the register matter much? If I put it in the corner of the ceiling, vs high (or low!) along the wall of a room? I keep wondering if I should put the registers high-up on the top floor, and down low on the bottom, to help maximize thermal de-stratification. Similarly, I could put the bathroom extracts behind the toilet, or over the shower...
• Anything else I should consider? I'm trying to avoid jump-ducts anywhere in the home, and had originally hoped the ERV ducts would help me avoid needing large undercuts (I had been hoping for 1/4" or lower) as the ERV would provide balancing paths, but the vendor design is all-supply in some rooms, and all-extract in others, so ...

I have a climate controlled unfinished basement that leads to a crawl space that's under my kitchen. On the outside of my house is this vent.

[Outside.jpg](https://postimg.cc/HV8Hncn7)

And this is what it looks like from inside the crawl space

[Inside.jpg](https://postimg.cc/nspt33kv)

The vent is cold to touch on the outside so AC is getting to it. Is there any reason this vent exists or was it an oversight? Even bugs and whatnot can fly right in. I'm assuming it's ok to cover it? I want to put a hose bib there anyways so i'm thinking of some sort of stained wood cover plate that make it super easy to mount a hose bib too. That's a topic for a different sub though I think

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I'm a journeymen electrician - don't really do hvac stuff, but a friend has asked to look at an old retirees unit to see if I can help someone whose income restricted.

This is what ive been told :

Unit appears to cycle on and off correctly. There appears to be power to the thermostat. Condensor relay will engage. There's 25v coming off the backside of the relay. The fan will engage and turn on for about 10 seconds then stop. It does not blow the fuses or trip the breaker. If they pull the blade disconnect out and reinsert it - the fan will again run for 10 seconds then stop. This process can be repeated indefinitely. With no trip occurring. There are no strange noises or indicators otherwise.

To me this sounds like a bad motor. If the relay was failing it seems like it wouldn't run those 10 seconds. Also don't belive the caps bad, otherwise it shouldn't start at all. I've yet to get my hands on it personally, just asked a bunch of questions before leaning in too far to help.

Howdy. My wife and I toured a home for sale yesterday that has a pair of geothermal heat pumps. I have no experience using a geothermal HVAC so I have some questions:

1. One of the geothermal units is 20 years old. What's the typical lifespan of a geothermal unit? I know there's no outdoors condenser but as I understand there's still a compressor and an evaporator indoors along with a water pump?

2. When a geo unit reaches end of life, assuming the buried water pipes are reused, how does replacement cost compare versus replacing a traditional air-source heat pump?

3. One thing that worries me is the seller's disclosure mentioned needing to add water last year. Is that normal part of maintenance or is it indicative of a problem with the buried pipes? I was under the impression that geothermal pipes were closed loops?

Thanks much!

Hello, So my wife and I have central heating but we do not have central air. We have a baby on the way so we are pretty heavily contemplated on getting central air installed. My question is, will it be cheaper to have it installed since we already have central heating? And also would it be smart to replace our oil furnace with an electric one at the same time?

I turned on the ac for the first time this year and forgot to take off the cover. It ran for about 30 minutes and the unit was hot when I took the cover off. Do you think I damaged or broke the unit.

I had a company come out and replace a failing compressor under warranty, they did that and any related work with it. I assumed they did a total system inspection as well. This was a few weeks ago, fast forward to now and the system is having issues, they came out again and is now saying the evaporator coil upstairs is leaking (6 years old). Now they quoting me for a replacement. Was this something they never inspected when they replaced the compressor? Coincidence? Could they have damaged the evaporator coil when they replaced the compressor? Or are they fishing for more money?

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Hello,

I am facing a challenge with my Sensi Thermostat ST55U located on the first floor. The thermostat's heating and cooling functions are working without any issues, but ever since I added a new HVAC zone in my attic, which uses a Nest Thermostat, the Sensi has been rapidly draining batteries and frequently losing its WiFi connection.

This problem surfaced after the installation of a C wire for the Nest. Even after replacing the Sensi unit with another one, the same problems persisted, leading me to suspect that the additional zone board wiring might be the cause. Upon inspecting the zone board, I discovered there's an unused C terminal, and the Sensi has additional blue and brown wires.

Could anyone guide me on whether I can connect one of these wires to the C terminal on both the zone board and Sensi Thermostat to supply constant power? Would this approach resolve the battery depletion and WiFi connectivity issues without harming my HVAC system? Your expert advice would be very valuable.

Please find the attached images of the current wiring setup:

All heating and cooling functions are performing correctly, so I'd like to rectify this without affecting those operations. I am looking forward to your suggestions and thank you in advance for your help!

hello i recently installed a diy mrcool minisplit and lately i realized its freezing up outside and don't understand why. i have seen some other instances where the cords could be mixed up but i'm not sure if mine are. the pictures below do not show the freezing but the bottom two cords that are for the cool air tend to freeze up which stops cool air coming into my cabin.

another problem is in the bedroom the mr.cool likes to condensate which sometimes leads to water dripping ive adjusted the pipe outside so it does drain proberly.

thank you

https://preview.redd.it/k7amhcx6dfxc1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5af44bd64e5c0e3399ac37fb4adc5a84df5d76f7

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Hello there. So we currently rent an upstairs apartment and have a smart thermostat. The apartment really isn't that big maybe a thousand square feet.

Anyway I'm convinced there's something else going on here but I just wanted to get some opinions.

So during the day I have my AC set at 70°, and during the night I have it set at 67°. I had always felt that in our bedroom it consistently was hotter than that and I can never get the apartment complex to believe me. Well recently we had a baby and have a baby monitor now that measures the temperature in the room. In that room the temperature never seems to drop below 73° with often times being higher closer to 75 or more.

Originally I was told that this happens at night because I keep the door closed so that the dog doesn't leave the room while we are sleeping however this also seems to happen during the day even when the door is left open all day long the temperature in the bedroom will never drop below 73°, no matter whether I have the AC set at 67 or 70° no matter the door being open or closed it doesn't make a difference. The temperature seems accurate and on point in the living room close to where the thermostat actually is. and I can't get the apartment complex to do anything about it I don't even know if there's anything to do about it.

I guess that's why I'm coming here to ask for help because I want to know if there's something else that can be done or if they're just bullshiting me

Honestly my theory is that the walls just aren't insulated very well. But it doesn't seem to be a problem in the winter time when it's cold outside the room stays warm. So I'm not really sure what the issue is

Fan is squealing and located at a 2nd home elsewhere so additional details at this time are not easy to get.

This is the information I have.

Condenser model m4ac3036a1000aa Serial Number unreadable. Google Search is inconsistent, It's coming up as a Ameristar/Trane and sometimes as an Air Handler. Needeless to say I'm scared to order anything because my confidence that I'm getting the right fan is virtually non-existant.

Hoping to source a low-cost variant from Amazon due to the age of the unit and Amazon's liberal return policies. Unfortunately, I don't know the RPM, or the bolt pattern, or the dimensions of the motor either. It does appear to be a shaft end Clockwise 1/8 hp motor. Can anyone point me to the specific motor I need on Amazon? I'm having difficulty uploading the pic of the motors label But it says WELLING MOTOR

INS CL B PH1 HP1/8

208-230V 60hz. 6P 0.68A ROT ___> CAP 6.0uF/450v

I have done a cross-reference check with an online database and the Welling Motor was not listed.

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Hi, we have a standard attic mount AC unit and this is in our master bedroom closet ceiling. To my understanding it's an Air mixer for outside air. But what I don't understand is why it's blocked with the metal plate if there's a vent over the plate? Should I remove it or leave it?

https://tinypic.host/image/1000008769.Dr9StM https://tinypic.host/image/1000008766.Dr9EfO

https://tinypic.host/image/1000008768.Dr9o2k

Contractor told me he only uses new refrigerant because if he uses the old it "could have acid in it." I said how the hell would acid get in there? He said I don't know, maybe the guy who installed it installed it wrong.

Google tells me old refrigerant can be used as long as it is passed through a filter drier. Is this correct?

UPDATE: I was told by another contractor that there is a valve or gasket that is broken so the system cannot be pumped down. That’s what he said anyway.

I have a Airmax 12k btu mini split inverter air conditioner for about a year and the technician at the time installed a WiFi module with instructions for an app called “Smartlife-Smarthome” (on Apple Store at least, not sure how it’s called on Android). The app works great, but now I had him install a 2nd Airmax mini split and also added the WiFi module, just that this time it has instructions for a different app called “NetHome Plus”, both mini splits work fine on their apps, but I was hoping I could use both mini splits inside the same app rather than two separate apps.

I already asked the technician to check how to add both of mini splits to the same app and he’s going to check with his supplier because when I tried putting any of the mini splits in AP mode they are not compatible outside their intended app.

Has anyone experienced this before? I figured they’d use the same app. The reason why I want them on the same app is just so it’s easier to manage them together, my only concern is when we add a third mini split later in the future It too will have another third app to manage.

I had just purchased a brand new window AC unit for our bedroom.

I installed it, and got it ready for use. Despite it only being 55 degrees overnight, and this morning, I decided to run it because our bedroom was pretty warm, around 72° and humid.

The unit just rapid cycled for an hour, compressor on for 2 minutes, off for 3-4 and didn't cool the room so I shut it off. I don't believe I've had this happen with previous units. Tried again when it was sunny this morning, still 55. Same thing. Unit was set to 65, just to see what happened. Rapid cycled too often to cool the room down

Maybe I am naive, but was this happening because the weather outside is cool, or do I need to replace this unit?

Right out of the box