Got a quote from a Mitsubishi diamond dealer, so 12 year parts warranty I believe for $5k. This includes all the electrical (which is a pretty far run).

The unit is heating and cooling 12,000 BTU GS head and standard capacity pump.

Is this about the going rate or too high?

I have an old 120v 12k btu Senville Leto unit that I installed 10 yrs ago but few years back i had a contractor install a 3 unit 24k btu mitsubishi mi isplit heat pump. I was told its cheaper, more efficient top of the line. Well long story short, when I run the leto for heat it uses on average 400 watts per hour, daily total of 3 to 4 kwh. But when I use just one 12k btu unit in the same area (the mitsubishi model) it goes up as high as 2 kwh, average daily use 10 to 15 kwh. That's almost like 3 times as much as the Leto. It's exactly the same area, just located on a different wall, identical indoor and outdoor temp. It makes no sense to me. (Also I use the Emporia monitoring to get exact usage values.

Looking for advice on removing a gas fireplace and dealing with return air issues.

I recently moved into a 1998-built house, which had a gas fireplace installed in 2015. The fireplace was located on the main floor and vented through a cutout on the side of the house.

I’ve removed the fireplace, which required demolishing some drywall and ceiling, as the framing was extensively nailed in place. My plan was straightforward:

1. Cap the exterior vent hole
2. Redo the home wrap
3. Reinstall insulation
4. Apply a vapor barrier
5. Finish with drywall

However, after removing the drywall, I ran into some unexpected issues:

• I found a different type of insulation in the wall with the words “return air, do not insulate”
• The room already has a return air grill, so I’m unsure of the function of what I’m seeing.
• I noticed duct at the base of the floor that was behind the drywall I demolished, but demolishing the drywall behind the fireplace, it had no return air grill (see picture 2)
• I don’t see any ductwork in the ceiling.
• There is a paper-like material at the top of the insulation, seemingly allowing outside air in.

Picture:

1. Gas fire place (https://imgur.com/a/2WjTKHb)
2. Wall behind fire place after removed (https://imgur.com/a/40uugBG)
3. Wall after removing drywall, you can see return vent written on insulation (https://imgur.com/a/iXPZLO5)

3.5. The layers of foil insulation (https://imgur.com/a/CV6crlE) 4. Wall after removing first three layer of foil insulation and patched hole, also you can see the other return air grille in the right side of the room (https://imgur.com/a/oWRuwjU) 5. Floor duct for the return vent that was behind the drywall (https://imgur.com/a/DQd1dSG) 6. Top part of foil insulation, paper like material letting outside air in? (https://imgur.com/a/fEex3bL) 7. Ceiling, to see if there any duct that leads to this? (https://imgur.com/a/B27S0gg)

I’m unsure how to proceed, specifically regarding the return air. My current plan is to install a return air grill at the bottom and insulate the upper portion. Would this be the right approach? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! P.S I double posted.

I have a single zone Taco relay for zone 2 (upstairs) and an old school Honeywell relay for zone 1 (downstairs). When zone two thermostat calls for heat, the power light stays green and the zone light turns red, both expected. But when the thermostat is NOT calling for heat, the power light remains green (expected) but should the zone light turn green or off? I don’t remember what it used to be but recently the zone light is green at all times when no heat is called in zone 2 and I feel lukewarm pipes there when zone 1 is calling for heat. The pipes are not full on hot but warm to the touch. I am wondering if the zone light staying green means the zone is stuck open and some hot water is making its way through even though the circulator pump is not activated for that zone.

When placing mini splits in service, the condenser pre charge states it contains 25 x 3.. this is a 3 zone condenser, but we are only using two zones. So is the pre charge considered to be 50 feet or 75 feet? I’m still finishing out the line sets, but I think we will be at or over 75 feet total length. Another question. When adding refrigerant it states different amounts per foot of a certain diameter of liquid line. Do you only calculate the liquid line, and not add any refrigerant for the gas line? Thank you for the help.

Hey All,

I have a Mitsubishi 3.5tn Zuba Central Hyper Heat System, PUZ-HA42NK, and the exterior noise from the compressor (I'm assuming) during the defrost cycle is significantly louder than the operation of the unit. Everything else is fine with it and it's made this noise since install about 3 years ago. I'm just worried it's driving my neighbour insane who has his bedroom right near the unit.

Here's a (dark) video that captures the sound difference: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/1wNN-Qdaz40

Looking for any feedback on if this is normal for this unit or not, and if anything can be done about it.

So I live in a mobile home (renter) when the furnace turns on I can smell fuel. HVAC guy came of course he couldn't smell it. Landlord said they couldn't smell it. But my wife and I smell it and especially when we first walk in after being gone for a while. Neither Carbon monoxide detector say there is a problem and I put one in a room that is smaller than would contain more of the air still nothing. It started Thursday. I thought maybe it was cause we had just had a fill up. So waited until the next day to have the landlord have it checked out. HVAC guy came literally LOOKED at the furnace and said sounds like it's running good. Checked by the tank for leaks and nothing. Didn't take anything apart and it's still so strong when it blows. Makes me light headed sometimes. And it isn't like exhaust it's more like the smell you'd get if say someone spilled some and a breeze blew the scent to you...oh I smell oil...if that makes any sense. HELP it's driving me crazy....I feel like they think I'm nuts.

On The outside of my house it looks like a big wet spot. My hvac unit is behind that wall. Is this normal or should I worry that something is wrong.

my boyfriend mentioned awhile ago hed like a "milwaukee 6amp battery m18" whatever that means? theres so many different ones on amazon i have no idea which one is the right one. is this the right one? how can i tell if its the right one they all look the same. i apologize if im asking for advice in the wrong place ive never used reddit before ! thanks!!!

Hi all. First time here. HVAC tech recently was out and recommended replacement of the disconnect box. He said there was a problem with the handle that pulls out. Quoted $500+ to replace it. We did not do anything then. 2 weeks later now and our hvac quit on us today. I think the disconnect fuse may be blown. Everything else is working, but the outside unit is not coming on at all. When I opened the box, the disconnect handle broke completely off.

Finally... my question. $500 is way too much, yes?

The box seems to be under 50 for the box and new fuses.

Also... the current disconnect box is a 60a 240v box. The breaker it is connected to is 30a. The label on the unit says max fuse 30a (min 25). Is my setup even correct? Can anyone offer any advice?

I recently purchased some new registers for the ductwork that heats/cools my bedroom and a side room because they were very old and didn't open/close properly.

After I did my measurements, I realized that there is a vertical space above where the registers would sit, about 8 inches high and 4 inches wide. I'm guessing it is about 10-12 inches long, a little longer than the opening in the wall.

Is this vertical space intentional? Could this be affecting airflow into both rooms? Does it make static pressure higher? I could try to grab a picture if needed.

My house was built in 1912 and it's not the most efficient, but the front bedroom is always less comfortable than the other rooms in the house. It always felt like there wasn't much air being pushed in. Part of the reason I got new registers is so I could actually close the one in the side room and force air to go into the bedroom instead.

Hey guys,

I just moved in to a new apartment. It looks like the heating/cooling is through an omega hrp 40 heat pump, and a honeywell T6 thermostat. It actually was working for a bit, but for some reason I set the schedule and then it started saying the temperature was way higher than it was.

I did some googling which said to change the filter which I did as it was quite dirty, as well as vacuumed around it. I factory reset (bad idea) and the temp is now showing close to what it should, but still showing 20c when I'm almost certain it should be lower.

I do not know what settings I need to put in to make it work, when I select heat pump the "heat on" on the thermostat is flashing, but if I change it to conventional then it doesn't flash, the air goes on to super high but it's just a fan with no heat.

I've emailed the building manager but wanted to see if there was anything I could do tonight since it's quite cold.

Thank you!

I’m considering whether I want to get a heat pump or central AC installed. Here’s some context: I live in the northeast, have a forced air oil furnace, 1.5 story home, 1400 square feet, built in the 1960s. I only plan to live in this home for about 5 years (maybe less).

What would you do?

Hi all, not sure if I’m in the right spot but any help would be appreciated, have a Hitachi RAS-5HVNC1 displaying a 04 fault, Abnormality between Inverter PCB and Outdoor PCB. anyone have any information on testing PCBs please!!!

So, 6 weeks ago, I came home, and my house was cold. Turned the t-stat up, and nothing. Tinkered with the stat a bit, and nothing. Decided to turn the system off via the emergency switch. Waited 30 seconds, start it back up, and the propane furnace fired right up. Figured issued was solved. Soon as the blower motor kicked in, the flame went out. Got 4 flashing lights, indicating a flame sensor issue. Knew I could do anything about it at the moment, and used what I could to keep some heat in the house.

Next day, tech comes over, and changes the HSI immediately, knowing it isn’t the right one. He conveys this info to me, but says it should work long enough to get a new one to replace. No joy, furnace is still a paper weight. He finds the proper one in town, and installs it. Still doesn’t work. He checks limits, switches, pressures, everything shy of taking the furnaces temp the baby way, then concludes the board is fried.

Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu!

No boards in town, so to the net I go, scouring to find one. I order it, and it FINALLY gets here, but that’s a totally different story.

I install the board, and voila! Beautiful heat is coursing through my home! I even crank it up a few degrees hotter than normal, just cause I fucking can. After two weeks without central heat, I. Was. In. Heaven.

Fast forward 4 weeks to the day, and the furnace isn’t working again. Tried resetting the unit, and the same thing happens: have flame until the blower kicks on, then flame dies. Same four flashes.

Anyone have any idea what is wrong?

Hey, I have to replace my dryer vent hose because it broke. Would I be able to safely and securely attach the new dryer vent hose to the flange side of a starting collar using a clamp and tape, and then put the flat side of the collar into the vent pipe and seal it with high heat flue tape? Is it a major fire hazard? Just want to be safe

I am planning on installing an AprilAire 500 in the red area and bypass in yellow area. The manual says you can install on SA or RA but my setup only allows me to setup on SA. Is this really that big of an issue? I’ve read a few posts on this sub Reddit and many are saying RA for robustness against if humidifier leaks then it will not damage furnace or coils.

I just had a Mitsubishi heat pump puz-a42nka7 installed, with a ducted air handler pva-a42aa7, single zone. The installer put in model PAR-41MAAU thermostat after I told him I heard that the Mitsubishi thermostats have better control and are more efficient. I expected it to have WiFi and connect to the kumo app, but apparently it has no connected features. Can anybody help me figure out which thermostat and other accessories I should get? Thanks! I like the idea of adding more temp sensors around the house and choosing which room to use as the setpoint.

Provided that the tankless is already bought and ordered from Amazon Prime credit. So just for labor and an additional piping and materials. Is it a big job? New Venting system needed? I wish to keep it in the basement and was hoping it was somewhat plug and play and use much of the existing pipework that goes to the showers and sinks and washer.

Hitachi ducted system throwing 04 fault. Abnormality between Inverter PCB and Outdoor PCB. Anyone have any information on how I can tests PCBs.

I have been seen a lot of videos on social media where technicians be advising to not buy a high MERV rating due to the condenser having to work more in order to cool down the house. My reason why I invest on a MERV 10 or more filters is due to my dad having asthma, we live under the glidepath of an airport, and we use to have pets. Appreciate anyone that can debunk on this - unit we use to have is Carrier condenser however my friend is not an authorized distributor he swapped it out with AC Pro condenser.

I was quoted $4000. $1500 for the inverter and $2500 to install it. The labor seems high. How many hours does this take? It’s basically just disconnecting all the wires and reconnecting them to the new boards. Tempted to do it myself.