Thanks

Hey everyone,

I’m currently building a portable, ported speaker box using two older 60W RMS (3Ω) speakers and wanted to ask for some advice before finalizing my build.

I’ve already tackled the box geometry to minimize standing waves and calculated the ports while keeping the ideal box size in mind. Now I have a few questions:

1. Bracing Placement – I know I shouldn’t place bracing between the speaker and port, but are there other key placement considerations I should be aware of? What about the geometry of the bracing? I want to keep the enclosure as rigid as possible messing with the performance.
2. Edge Rounding vs. Sharp Edges – I keep hearing that rounding the edges is beneficial due to diffraction, yet I see a lot of speaker enclosures with sharp edges. Is it mainly an aesthetic or manufacturing choice? Are manufacturers compensating with DSP/equalization, or is the benefit of rounding less significant than it seems?
3. All-in-One Amp/Bluetooth Solutions – I’ve already put together my own system (amp, Bluetooth, etc.), but before I finalize my setup, I’d love to hear if anyone has found a great all-in-one solution that works well in a portable build.

Any insights or recommendations would be really helpful! Thanks in advance.

Hi guys, don't know if this is correct forum but i'm really want to build simple compact stereo speaker for desk usage with somewhat good sound. With max length approx. 40cm

I've scrap 2x 3" speaker from previous build that i want to use but last time it was a sound disaster since it was build out of balsa wood and LM386 amplifier (i know it is stupid, but it's what i have that time)

Now i want to rebuild it in single day. What enclosure that i have to use to "only" drill, make a speaker hole and also has an acceptable sound quality? Last time it has 1-3khz-ish resonance freq to it that made listening awefull. Don't know if it because speaker or balsa lol.

MDF is kinda "if you have to" territory since i have to cut it off many time.

I'm proposing for large PVC pipe with its endcap cut to size. But don't know the sound quality, might be the same? Any idea guys?

So i got hold of some old Logitech Z906 Satelites which apparently feature a version of the venerable TB W3-871. The driver seems to be perfect for a closed box satelites with their fairly narrow directivity. In a little simulation i also found that 3-4Liter vented should be possible with these, although SPL will need to be limited and it needs some correction filters to smooth the response curve. So near field monitors with a vent seem possible despite the bit too high QTS, but i have to deal with extremely short xmax somehow.

I found a lot of incredibly large cabinets like the Cyburg needle. Even the CT265 is unnecessarily large for a 3liter vented box since it uses a large horn shaped BR port which i don't think is really necessary or a good use of space.

I eventually found the Mini-ACL, which apparently goes around the limited xmax problem by having a small 1.5liter chamber inside a 4.5liter total vented box. So the ACL principle on this is a larger vented box divided into four compartments, each giving some air spring effect to the driver, which helps it to achieve low enough F3 at around 70hz but still limit cone excursion there. Count me intrigued!

So now on to my question:

When i do the simulation, i still go way over Xmax at 60hz and lower. Same for the needle or CT265. How can any of these vented speakers even work without filtering away the low bass ur using compression? Are they reaklly all only designed for low volume at 2-3Watts?

The same problem should apply to any 3incher with limited xmax such as the Dayton Audio RS75, Monacor SPX31M, Faitalpro 3FE20/25, etc.

How come that none of the suggested filters for all the popular box designs for these drivers employ a highpass to filter away the dreaded lo bass?

Do they just let distortion before xmech handle the low bass and hope for the best that the coil does not hit the magnet and destroy itself?

Hey, I want to build a set of speakers for my tv

I have chosen Dayton GF1880-8 And Dayton DC25T-8

I have an crossover at 3100hz "bought at AliExpress" And planed to put them in a 27l box

Should I build my own crossover or buy one from Dayton or try this one ?

Hey guys

I am building a speaker set for my livingroom (TV and music) and I would appreciate your advice. The set up is two small 3-way speakers and a subwoofer.

Amp: arylic up2Stream 2.1

3-way speakers (closed enclosure, 6 liters): Tweeter: Monacor DT-25N (8 ohm) Mid: HIVI B3n (8 ohm) Bass: HIVI B4N (8 ohm) Crossover at 500 Hz and 3000 Hz

What do you think about this setup? Am I missing something and should I in your opinion change anything to the crossover?

Also, do you have a recommendation for a subwoofer unit, that would fit this setup? Size is an issue, and I would like to make the enclosure max 50 liters.

Links: Amp: https://www.arylic.com/products/up2stream-amp-2-1-amp-board Tweeter: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/monacor-dt-25n.html?id=191406863&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhvK8BhDfARIsABsPy4hjXWWLY9XuZmf3GxRK_zTJWEvfUtOfK0EdSHRAIXRiBAZRy34u-EAaApAdEALw_wcB Mid: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/hivi-b3n.html?id=132418286&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhvK8BhDfARIsABsPy4hi-qnIhLiJiCYkLFcNl5XKzmg4fHeabu1OHlNDvbvhlpogFqvPRcMaAvZtEALw_wcB Bass: https://www.soundimports.eu/en/hivi-b4n.html?id=132419891&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhvK8BhDfARIsABsPy4iKuG-KO5__PZC4VThZz2CaEhWR5xBuWWnPfBipiCCajq5v89Hp3XwaAjQ3EALw_wcB

Rough trim bit and sand. Minimal need for filler before the 1/4” round over and final sand. Then time for flushing in the speakon connectors and Exohyde finish. Will add a bead of sealer on the inside seams just to be safe.

So one of the 8" drivers failed and i have been in contact with support. They were going to send one out under warranty but the speakers came to me second hand and warranty doesn't transfer. Now they say they don't have stock on it and therefore can't provide me with an invoice to buy it. They have been very responsive but this is just bullshit honestly. So i am now waiting on specs for the driver to see if i can find one comparable without swapping all 4. They are wired in series off the crossover, so i don't want to mix/match them. Anyone have any solid data or suggested replacement? TIA

So I picked a used Martin Logan surround system. It came with two grotto powered 10” sealed servo subs. I would much rather have ported subs. Can I reuse the subs and amps in a diy ported box or would it not sound good without knowing T/S parameters for the subs?

I lost my Rode VXLR and thought it might be an opportunity to build my own, and learn how it works.

My big problem is that parts express only sells inductors up to 16mh and thats just not enough to get my woofers crossed over around 35hz. DSP or active crossovers are not an option

I've had speakers hit their xmax before, so doesn't that mean most manufacturers don't include bass protection in their crossovers?

Also, doesn't this imply that ALL speakers need a bandpass crossover (given enough wattage)?

would knitted baffles work as well or better than felt baffles?

I’d like to diy a passive sub for home listening that has decent low frequency response. Ideally I’d like to hear it at low volume to enjoy all the frequencies, not trying to shake the windows.

Is this an achievable DIY goal or would I be better off buying an SVS or similar that gets down to 18Hz?

So I have an ammeter installed measuring the power wire to my 4ch and mono amplifiers in my truck. I have an upgraded alternator that is 300amps and runs a steady 14.3-15v. I was just listening to avenged sevenfold and at 14.7v I was pulling a constant 40amps. I feel like it should be louder or does that sound ok for a 4x100w rms amp and a 800w rms?

30 year old Sony 3 way system. 12” woofer suspension is falling apart. Replace or repair with new suspension?

I want to just use this as a PA for my line6 Helix. It's passive and has two 1/4" in the back. What is the cheapest way to power this? I tried plugging in the 8hm speaker out on my tube amp and it worked but is there a better compact way? Thanks

Idk where we got this speaker from but it has very little known about it online.