is that the correct way to do it?

I need to replace the audio system in my rv as it is garbage. Needs to be Bluetooth so I've been looking at different class d amps. I'd like it to run a couple coaxial with it but I have a 12v car amp sitting around that I'd like to drive a sub. Anything out there that I can do that with? TIA for your help! I searched and came up empty.

I have a 7-year old Sonos setup, with three zones. I don't like it at all. The hardware fails, the app is flaky, I can't stream from audio stored on my iPhone, and I can't stream via bluetooth.

I heard about the open source MoOde audio player, running on a Raspberry Pi, and I'm wondering if that would be a good alternative.

My requirments:

• Support for multiple zones.
• Controllable from an iPhone or iPad, (via wifi to the Raspberry Pi).
• Music stored on a NAS. I assume that just works.
• Stream music via Bluetooth to the Raspberry Pi. If this works well, that would get me access to everything on my Apple devices.

Is this doable?

Hey guys. I'm installing some speakers in my new home, which was prewired for two ceiling speakers. I've never done this. I thought it would be fairly straightforward but I'm now confused.

When I opened up the ceiling at one of the speaker locations, the wire was looped. I assume I'm supposed to cut it, plug it into this speaker, then daisy chain to the next one.

However, it sounds like the speaker should have +/- IN and +/- OUT. I'm only seeing IN....? How to I go from this speaker to the next?

I'm currently at the house and need to finish this up tonight, so I'm in a bit of a panic. Thanks all.

Figured I'd ask here too since you guys are crafty.

Picked up a pair of JBL S38's off FB marketplace. Only noticed a small rip that I figured I could easily fix with RTV sealant. Brought them home and noticed the rubber surround has a long rip in it. Any chance I can salvage it without spending much. It's too big to just seal up I assume?

https://preview.redd.it/jjtn4iiatn0d1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b41a10d1f6b63f732508d2be73c42e3f3cda5c69

Worst case I can take them back to the seller who said they'd refund me if they didn't work properly.

im using two current mirrors and i dont know if i should use two.

Hello, it has happened that a potentiometer of a steinberg ur 22 mkii has lived its life and needs a replacement (it rotates all the way around without stopping).

I have gutted it out to look at it, but was stumped to see that it is a 4 pin potentiometer.

Any ideas what exact pot is this? My guess is that it is 20k, but thats where my knowledge ends...
Also, where does one find such a pot :-D ?

https://preview.redd.it/krtp7s8con0d1.png?width=270&format=png&auto=webp&s=5046bb0f9fb3508bd8d4bc8abda6e7ef9c4b25a5

https://preview.redd.it/mlhjcc0hon0d1.png?width=218&format=png&auto=webp&s=66d3c8f40b13b1bfae30f698dbb0717b1edf2f5e

Looking forward to hearing from You...

Hey all,

I have a pretty awesome sealed sub I created with an Aurasound NS-18 that I want to make new towers to pair with it. Was always hoping to be able to make a set of statement IIs but finding the drivers are next to impossible now.

What would be your go to towers to pair with a monster sub? Bonus points if my lazy ass can buy it as a kit.

Hello! I'm a newbie in diy audio and I'm about to do my first project with speakers (I've only serviced turntables before) which is changing the crossover capacitors and internal speaker wiring on my Monitor Audio MA5 Series 2, and I have a problem determining the value of the caps inside, I can't find any schematics or info about them online, does anyone know what caps it uses or how can I determine it? My multimeter doesn't measure capacity. I'm also curious about the sense of changing the internal wiring, currently there are some pretty thin aluminium wires inside, and I have some 2.5mm ofc copper wires laying around doing nothing that I was thinking about putting in them. Is it worth the effort?

It would be a stealth subwoofer box that fits in the curve of my trunk with a 10inch driver

We have lots of different branded speakers and would love to be able to have them all play the same thing. My idea would be to connect them to my laptop and then have them all spaced out through the house. We have a JBL, a few UE booms, an Echo Dot, and a few other random ones.

Is this at all possible? I've tried some apps but none of them worked, and spotify/laptop would only connect to one at a time. Would aux cord splitters work?

I just noticed in the fine print of my subwoofer manual that it recommends the use of a subsonic filter, and that "the charts are calculated using a 25Hz, 24dB per octave subsonic filter", is there something I can tweak in my T.racks mini DSP software for the same result?

Hello all!

Today is an unfortunate day on my end - my daily driver studio monitors of nearly 20 years, the ADAM A7s have gone kaput. I’m honestly devastated.

Today I booted them up and to my dismay when I loaded up the commercial I was doing some music editing for, the image was leaning aggressively right. I solo’d out each side and there’s certainly something wrong with the range below 100hz and the crossover range around 2k so I can’t use them in their current condition. My assumption is there’s a failing/leaking electrolytic cap like what this guy found a few years ago: https://www.pgmusic.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=746967

Thankfully for now I have a set of B&O BeoVox 5700s I just finished restoring and recapping with polycaps and new resistors, and they sound excellent, so they’re a workable substitute for now (arguably better sounding than the A7s minus a bit of top end detail from the ribbon tweeters) but they’re 50 years old and there’s still some wonk to a few of the drivers so I don’t trust them completely.

On the horizon are a set of HiVi 3.1s that I’ll be building with the Sehlin Option #5 perfectionist crossover. With the AMT/ribbon tweeter and 6.5” woofer I’d imagine the HiVi 3.1s would pair super well with the remaining A7 components for a center speaker. I’d love to fix the ADAMs, but I’ve been looking at upgrading monitors for a while (always intending to keep the ADAMs as an alt set 😪) and really enjoy the midrange detail the 3-way B&O speakers provide. The B&Os have also gotten me really into crossover design and DIY stuff in general, so I figure building a super accurate 3-way like the HiVi 3.1s with the crossover mod would be a fun upgrade over trying to fix a 20 year old monitor with failing components or dropping $1.5-2k on a new set of ADAMs.

That got me thinking and the plan in question is to repurpose the right ADAM A7 as a center channel as it’s still fully operational. Since just the woofer amp has failed on the left speaker and there’s no damage to the drivers but I’m sure they’re still in good shape. That said, I’m also assuming the right amp is just behind the left and could go any day now, especially as some of the earlier symptoms of failure have been starting to happen on the right side.

Could I, in theory, build an MTM/MTTM style enclosure for the Right ADAM’s components and place either or both of the drivers from the left speaker in this new enclosure and build a frankenstein center channel a la the A77X, either in line with the A77X’s single tweeter or possibly with two tweeters? For said speaker, I see two real options - either building an MTM/MTTM 2.5 way speaker with the existing (failing) amps OR I build a passive 3-way crossover and make an A77X clone (plus an extra tweeter) that is a proper 3 way.

I’m imagining three ways of doing this that go up in complexity:

1. Put in only 3 drivers (MTM 2.5 Way) and use the working amps from the right speaker only to drive all 3 drivers by powering both woofers from the same amp. I’d imagine I could I’d just splice and solder two ends to each cable.
   • I’d assume here the woofers would receive less power, and that would either be extremely problematic and they won’t move properly, or they would miraculously combine together to add up to the equivalent power of one woofer powered by one amp, but as I write that it feels like a pipe dream.
2. Put in all 4 drivers (MTTM 2.5 Way with the tweeters vertically aligned) and use the amps from the right speaker and run a second set of wires to both the second woofer and second tweeter from their corresponding amp - again by splicing.
   • I’d assume this would give me half the power to both drivers, which could be problematic. If again somehow it’s not problematic, I’m sure I could compensate with level calibration as I’ve got a pretty flexible routing & output system in my home Atmos room and I’ve got 6db of headroom on the input gain dial.
3. Put in all 4 drivers (MTTM 3-Way) and build a new passive crossover around the driver specs. In a cabinet of that size I could either single or bi-amp with an internally mounted amp like a Fosi Audio V3.
   • I like this idea more than doing nothing and using the remaining A7 as a center as I’d have all new components in the crossover and another failing amp wouldn’t leave me without a center channel. Also don’t like the idea of an asymmetrical center and it would have to lay horizontally underneath my monitor.

Any thoughts on this idea? Did I drink too much coffee today and now I’m just tweaking or is this a potential project?

Sidenote: I’m not particularly worried about the enclosure, a woodworker friend of mine is collaborating with me to build some speakers for her house and she has unlimited access to a woodshop with free wood as a part of a fellowship she’s been accepted into.

I have 2 Sunn SPL 1225 pa speakers. They run at 200 watts each, 400 together with a peak at 800 watts. I also have 2 Prime R169X3 speakers which run at 65 watts each and peak at 130 watts. Neither of these sets are powered and im looking to power them with the same amp. I need an amp powerful enough to run these 4 speakers at the same time (so at least 4 speaker outputs) and i need it to have 2 6.35mm mic inputs as well as bluetooth. What Amp should I buy?

I always wanted to revive my old tf10s, I’d repaired that old connector loads and it is shit in application anyway. So fancied trying mmcx. The housing however had perished completely so it was repair time. Courtesy of some fake se215 and a dremel and they live. Not pretty but they never were anyway. Just happy to revive these old things!

Looking for a subwoofer to use with my iLoud MTM speakers on my computer. It is in a small room, will be corner loaded, and I don't listen that loudly. So deep is more important than loud.

Budget $500 for a kit. I have no real woodworking tools, so glue and screw is the limit of what I can handle.

My alternative is a RSL 10 MK II

Hi there. I'm planning on making a sub using this GRS 8SW-4HE sub in a 45L box tuned to 22hz with 3" port. I'm going to be using a 3.5mm jack for my input and might need rca inputs at some point. The sub is rated for 150W RMS, so ideally the amp can handle at least 150W into 4ohms.

If someone could give me a basic list of the parts and bad brands/sketchy models to watch out for that'd be great. There are so many amp boards on soundimports.eu but most of them have no reviews or look low quality, eg have no fans or a tiny heatsink for 200W.

Hi, I have ordered a bunch of components from parts express to build the Amigas. I won't get to it until later part of the year as I'll be moving countries soon. But wanted to check the components and confirm they are in good health before I moved.

I know folks mention using a multimeter run a voltage and check but I'm totally new to this and was wondering if anyone had any simple instructions on what voltage to run across resistor, capacitors, inductor and woofer, tweeter?

Reaching out to check here first as I have varying values of resistor, inductor and capacitor for the crossovers. Since I've never done this, don't want to burn them out.

Thanks in advance!

I bought these parts following a guide to upgrade my car speakers like 10 years ago. I’m really trying to declutter but these are shiny new; I just don’t know what I can do with them.

Garbage? Micro project?

Hello everyone! I'd like some advice on sizing the ports for my mid speakers in my sound system. I'm building a 12V battery system with one THAM12 subwoofer, 2 mid speakers and 2 top speakers. The subwoofer's crossover frequency will be 120-140Hz. I'd like to build the midrange subwoofer (Fane Sovereign 8-225) to be tuned to this frequency (120Hz or 140Hz). Knowing that mid cabinets have each a volume of 19L, I tried to use WinISD software to calculate the length and diameter of the port, but I don't really understand the results... Could you help me to know the vent length and diameter? Thanks a lot!

hey guys, read different forums with different people saying different things.

some say that, for ported subwoofers, generally no dampening is needed as it might mess with the sound, however other says that it can give low end extension.

truly have no idea, any inputs? also, what material would you recommend (pls don’t say fibreglass, prefer not to have dust shards flying out the port), and in what areas of the enclosure would this work best.