https://www.crutchfield.com/p_108BASSLIN/Infinity-BassLink.html

I've got one of these and I was wondering how I would connect this to my pc. Idk what to do for power so what would I need to do that

I salvaged a very good Polk floorstanding speakers and playing it hapilly for the llast several months.now until a little gremlin came to visit us this Thanksgiving. Whilewe were having a good dinner, he pressed his fingers over the tweeters. Sound wise, I don't hear any distortion but now they look pretty bad. Is there anythingI can do to reshape these tweeter caps? As someone asked- the speaker is a pair of Monitor 60.

hi, I need to make a mic, as I have a video call scheduled. for this I will need a mic.

I need to to be made of an old bean can. and I also don't care if it sounds good it not. the shitter it sounds, the better.

things I have.

a bean can,

a steinburg UR22 audio interface.

a couple a microphones. one is a fairly modern usb mic. a editor keys SL150. and a piece of crap tape recorder mic from the 70s.

desperation. and lack of standards.

would will i need to get to make a homeless tier mic?

Does anyone know which version high freq driver goes into this speaker? There is the BC25TG15-04 and BC25TG15-08, but the hitmaker plans just call for BC25TG15. Anyone know which version goes into these speakers?

Is it best to just plug the hole than leave it open?

My towers are 20+ yrs old and the plastic ports in both of them have crumbled/rottened away, leaving about a 4 inch sawed hole. The towers are 150w 4ohm 20-30khz marked with a 10" side firing sub in them, and 2x 5" MTM woofer/tweeter configuration on top.

Tubes were lost during moving to a new house, I think they broke when a mover accidentally used them as lifting handles. I'm not sure how deep they were. Overall I wonder if I should take the opportunity to learn winisd and try make some new enclosures... Brand is an old swedish one (proson/JWS international) so it's not a huge gamble if I mess things up.

Initially just wondering if a closed hole is better than a very un-tuned port.

I am new to audio amplifier field, i searched across the internet and i found that the class AB amplifiers are producing more sound quality. So i plan to make my own portable stereo speaker with class AB amplifier.

Is there any ideas to use a class AB amplifier IC's for portable speaker applications ? It's possible or not

If possible, how?

I'm thinking of making floor standing speakers, each with two woofers, tuned slightly differently. My theory is that this will smooth out the natural peaks and valleys in their frequency response graph.

For example, One woofer tuned to 33 HZ, and the other tuned to 40 HZ. They're both front firing, with rear ports

This is just a thought experiment, and I'm wondering what everyone else here has to say about it

Hello,

I bought a used JVC car stereo to use for the computer audio. I currently use one of my Technics amplifers but thought I could use the JVC car stereo for the computer. Another plan, for the car stereo was to create a boom box with it, already have the JL audio speakers for it. If i went the boom box rout i would still need the aux functioning.

Currrently i run my Technics amp through the computer via 3.5mm to rca cable (home made and very good - no issues with it).

The JVC car stereo, was a good buy and unit looks in great condition and came with all the brackets, remote and wiring harness. I was able to power it, etc with a power adaptor, hook up the speakers. I got a cheap 3,5mm to 3.5mm cable - sound was quite slightly distorted and humming noise as in grounding. I put the Multimeter probe into the JVCs 3.5mm aux input to its chassis and i had no continuity.

The ground loop islolator i got, make things worse, it was not the most expensive nor the cheapest -- around 25$.

This is my thought i like to share, and whether or not its possible without harming the PC or JVC stereo. I would ground the earth of the plug to the chassis of the car stereo.

Another thing, could it be the power adaptor as it has a screw terminal and maybe its best i cut and solder the wire.

Thank you

https://preview.redd.it/3x7tyajsgj4e1.jpg?width=1224&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=051683ae90a877f4fa5056dffed04083b17325da

https://preview.redd.it/s3s1gypeij4e1.jpg?width=980&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f27ddb0b26ebf4e87d70436219ea515ad8b53e64

Any suggestions for what chi-fi speakers I should use for the open baffle in a restoration of a 19060's hif cabinet? the speaker gfriull gives me 9.75"x38.25" to work with. I was thinking 2x3" anbd 2x6" might be good but id really like some tiops from others

So currently I have 2 10” JL audio subs in a sealed box and I love the subs but I want more low end bass. Any recommendations on how to tune my box, how to build it, and what to tune it to? It’s a Mazda 5 so space isn’t an issue.

Hey everyone,

Makerspace teacher here. I have some students who want to make a Bluetooth speaker with flashing LEDS (lights illuminating to the beat of the music).

The students are currently using 1 Pioneer TS-F1634R car speaker with a MakerHawk Blue Tooth Amplifier Board HiFi Stereo 2.0 2X50W Audio Amplifier.

I have several bundles of LED strip lights (they don't need changing colors - just one solid color will do).

I am wondering if anyone has a solution for converting the Audio signal to a power signal to light up the LEDs. I've seen videos with Bass speaker - which seems simple enough, but that does not seem to work in our scenario.

If I have to buy the students a converter, that can be arranged. Any input would be helpful as these are middle school students - simple is better

Has anyone build them? Looks like Buchardt S400, which i like, but pretty affordable in same time. Worth to try?

I have measurements for one speaker bandpass can I build another put them together so have two speakers facing each other sharing the that part of the box with port in the middle. is the port size just doubled ? or do I have other issues to deal with? cuz I figure only thing that changes would be sharing of the port

First time “reconing”. 15” woofer. 1000 watt peak. Coil did not survive removal. But measures 50mm diameter and 48mm tall.

DC resistance was 0.4 ohms (before removal). Unsure what original impedance it should be. Harvested from a Mackie Thump 15A

Will any 50mm wide coil work? Or must I specify an impedance too???

I’m happy with how it turned out!

Before you are 2x 12”, 4Ω, dual voice coil subwoofers that are individually wired for 8Ω each and then wired in parallel to a Class D mono block amp for a total resistance of 4Ω. The amp is powered by a power supply that’s rated at 12V 125A 1500W DC.

This will be going into a closet behind my A/V wall.

Here are a few more pics: https://imgur.com/a/yejFlWl

Thanks for reading!!

Hi All,

My first post - pardon any breech of etiquette.

In my past speaker building and studies - I always equated 'order' of a filter to not only the roll-off characteristics 2nd (12dB / oct.) , 3rd (18dB /oct.) - etc; but with the number of reactive elements in the circuit.

For example, a 3rd order circuit in a crossover has 3 reactive elements (e.g. 3rd order low pass (to me) equals series inductor (LF pass) - shunt capacitance (HF shunt) and another inductor (LF pass) 18dB / oct.

In the acoustic analog - air mass would be analogous to electrical inductance and air compression (springiness or compliance) would be analogous to capacitance. So it would stand to reason that a 4th order box would involve 4 reactive elements (roughly speaking). So does anyone know what these elements are? I realize it's a sealed enclosure firing into a vented chamber (I think). And, a sealed enclosure rolls of at 12dB / octave (indicating second order) - how is the vented section modeled? I clearly have much to learn and appreciate reading the collective wisdom here. Also, there is a very old book that drills into these analogies by Harry F. Olsen - "Solutions to Engineering Problems using Dynamical Analogies. This treats electrical, mechanical and acoustical relationships. Headache producing, gnarly math - but interesting concepts.

Interested in your thoughts and experiences.

Good evening,

I'm looking to install a helmet speaker for my Mandalorian helmet. Many people usually use a belt mounted speaker like tour guides do but I'd really like the audio to come from my helmet. I disassembled an old Kindle Fire I had lying around to obtain the speaker unit as that is compact enough for what I need and should be loud enough, but so far that's all I have.

As a minimum, I'm imagining the Speaker mounted onto my sun visor externally, and hen wired into the helmet with an internal microphone. I'd need a power supply which would probably be a USB powerbank, but I'd imagine I'd need some sort of power regulation which I have no experience with.
As an ideal, I'd love sound effects also - 501st Stormtroopers have a static burst effect that activates when they speak but I think that would almost certainly involve some circuit boards to include that?

What I'm essentially asking, is how to wire the Kindle Fire speakers into a Microphone and Power Supply to work correctly, and if possible how to make it do a static burst or even voice changer effect.

Many thanks in advance!

Is this an insane person thing to do? Or is it so crazy it's genius?