A'hoy speakerbuilders. As the title asks.

With cheap drivers and class-D amps becoming weirdly good over the last 15 years I am inching back into hobbyist speakerbuilding and enjoying many new aspects of it.

But one financial aspect that irks me is the price of well-spec'd passive radiators, which for my future projects are often more expensive than the active drivers and sometimes even more expensive than the entire amp boards of active projects.

So I'm testing out a bunch of cheapo aliexpress radiators, which I imagine won't spec even close to proper ones from legitimate driver manufacturers, but at literally 1/10 the cost I don't mind risking seeing what I can do with them. But the cheapies don't come with specs, the most important for PRs being excursion and fs. So I'm wondering if there is a way to measure/calculate these parameters.

For clarity I'm referring to complete passive radiators with spiders and chassis, not the compact flat ones that are just a plate within a surround.

Cheers.

Howdy yall, hopefully someone can help or has run into this issue before.

We've gotta DAX88 Amp and we are unable to connect to it. At first we thought we needed to reset it (we tried. Didn't work. It's the older model where you can't truly reset it unless you're connected to it.... really great UX, dontcha think?), we did eventually find a button on the back and attempted to hold down 10 seconds. Nothing happened.

We can see it is still connected to the network, just not allowing us to connect to it anymore.

Anybody ever run into this issue?

Hi,

I've recently build a pair of c-notes. From the internet I was expecting they sound very nice out of the box, but somehow the ones I did build sound horrible :/

I triple checked the crossover and the polarity of the speakers, everything looks correct according to the official build notes. I've also did try different lengths of the bass-tube, with no noticeable effect.

No modifications were done to the speakers, no polyfill etc. inside, just ordered the complete set and build them.

I did try to measure them with REW, and there seem to be quite some drop at around 300hz:

https://preview.redd.it/h329trbqnxzd1.png?width=1702&format=png&auto=webp&s=f06babbd57d09c51d07ebf98f451fe572ee0cbd3

Which looks quite different than the graphs that were posted for the c-notes. I've also did try multiple, different amps, all have the same sound.

What am i doing wrong? What could be the reason why they sound so bad?

Update: Photos of the crossover:

Lower red wire goes to the speaker, upper red to the tweeter.

Pic of the tweeter.

Used this schematic

love Vu-meters in audio equipment and I'm kinda done with having LCDs on everything.

was thinking about building an audio visualizer for my setup but sometimes have a hard time with telling low-stereowidth tracks from mono tracks.

Having two Vu-meters is cool (and i probably will do that) but i was wondering if it was possible to build a Stereo-Pan meter that displays differences in left and right audio level?

I know i probably could just phase invert one of the signals and drive that into a normal Vu-meter but that would only confirm that there is a difference between left and right and not say whichever side is louder so it's not exactly what I want.

It could be usable for seeing how balanced left and right tracks are when mixing.

I'm thinking it would be plugged in between my soundcard and my active (balanced trs) monitors.

I don't have too much experience beyond soldering guitar pedal diy kits but is this something that is doable and how could i go about doing it?

I had a glitch, very loud signal. Left amp turned off - safety circuit, right amp took a hit, apparently safety circuit didn't work.

IR2110 chip, couple of resistors, and two things i don't know what they are fried. Guy says it's probably something more that's fried and the cost of repairs will probably be 300€-ish.

My current options:

I can get 2x 3602 used for 1200€ right now.

I could also just get Behringer NX3000 for 600€ and live with 400W less.
i'm afraid of again buying a used amp, then have it die on me unexpectedly.

I'm not willing to go lab gruppen prices.

i'd prefer class D / G / H over AB, need at least 3000W

.

Is there a DIY equivalent design? I’m thinking of single driver bookshelf speakers with high class sound. Maybe carve the rounded front baffles out of thick blocks of wood.

I’m building a subwoofer cabinet with a SPA250 plate amp. Do I need to make a separate enclosed compartment for the plate amp or can the amp handle the vibrations and air pressure inside the main cabinet. The sub is a RSS265HF and the cabinet is going to be made out of 3/4 MDF with a double think front baffle. There will be a slot port if that matters. I see the back of the plate amp has a plastic cover with a small hole where the wires feed out that isn’t sealed.

I need an opinion: should I focus my budget and effort on a real nice mono speaker, or build an ok stereo pair? Mainly for listening to classical/soundtracks and hip hop, from a single listening position (from my desk.)

Also, if you have any favorite speaker designs for good orchestral strings/great bass, I’d love to hear ‘em!

Sorry for being a newbie (just want to get that out of the way).

Never built a speaker. I'm an avid woodworker and am reasonably competent at wiring things up. I'm looking to jump into the hobby by starting with a center channel speaker.

If I'm going for something like this, what is the best way to go about it? I read through the product description and am thinking something like these components. If there anything I'm leaving off? Is there anything I listed that is way off? How do I know which driver specs I need in terms of Hz? Should I just go away and leave you guys alone?

• Two 6.5" woofers
• 4.5" midrange driver
• 1" tweeter
• 3-way crossover
• Terminal
• Ports

And following something like this for the build.

If this goes well, I'd then build something like these for the front surrounds using the same 4.5" drivers and tweeter, and a 2-way crossover and 2" port.

A house I'm renting has 3-strand 22-gauge telephone wire (ring, tip, ground). It's obviously not ideal for speaker wiring, but my choices are using it or no surround speakers. If I double-up one wire, it's effectively 19-gauge. Is there any benefit to one conductor (presumably the positive lead) being thicker than the other; or is there no benefit or even detrimental to have mismatched wire thickness?

I'm experiencing an issue with my CD player after a long period of inactivity. The tray refuses to eject properly. Initially, I thought it was a belt issue, but even after replacing the belt, the problem continues.

When attempting to eject, I notice the mechanism makes a stuttering/jerking motion, as if something is blocking it. When I manually pull out the tray (after lowering it), it slowly tries to retract itself with small, intermittent movements.

Symptoms:

• Tray won't eject normally
• Mechanism makes stuttering movements
• Belt replacement didn't solve the issue
• When manually extended, tray attempts to retract in small increments

Has anyone encountered a similar issue or knows how to fix this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

https://reddit.com/link/1gmin1z/video/q8sopk07kozd1/player

https://reddit.com/link/1gmin1z/video/nrjtleo7kozd1/player

I’m trying to upgrade some PA speakers. Love PE. Don’t get me wrong but they have lots of things right now on back order and for the things they do have in stock the specs are not meeting my requirements. I don’t want to order random shit on eBay and get knock off stuff. Where else can I order from. Is Crutchfield still mainly car audio?

Hi! What kind of rechargeable power supply can i put in this amplifier kit to make it work. The teacher specifically requested a rechargeable power supply.

I like this hobby but things keep piling up…

What do you do with the speakers you build? Do you sell them as “custom made”? If yes, how do you find clients? Do you try to make your own brand? Or you gift them?

So, i already have in my home pioneer amplifier with diamond cases and ive been quite satisfied with them for the past 15 years, no issues what so ever and marantz amplifier in another room, but i am not thinking of making a system in my car. Sadly, my knowledge with resistance and everything else is lacking ( both my setups in home have 2 speakers). Now, to give some info about my plan and idea and my current car setup, i drive a citroen xsara n1(yeah, old i know, but thats what i can afford), in my car, i have 2 stock speakers that are under the windshield, the tiny ones and have purchased used canton speakers for drivers and passengers door, along with that i have purchased 2 other aftermarket speakers for the back doors(one is Sony, rated at 70W and another is unknown brand and unknown rating), along with that, i have installed 2 subwoofera from bmw 2017 that i got for free(yay me), along with that, my stock radio has been having some issues so i have purchased a cheap multimedia to take advantage of preciously connected parking camera that was not in use as stock radio had no display and i have no idea why it was installed, as a gimmick perhaps? Anyhow, i plan to get some used amplifier(most likely a 6-channel one) and perhaps change the back speakers, although im unsure how and what would be the best approach to connect all of them or if i should just ditch the subwoofers and get some higher quality speakers? I have a lot more questions scrambling through my head, but this is somewhat primary.

Thank you in advance for assistance!

For a final project in my electronics class I am building a stereo amplifier using the LM3886 chip. I want to get the best performance out of it for the cost, but I don't have that much knowledge about amplifiers and I am questioning my design.

Goal: Run 8 ohm, 100-200W speakers with a simple design and sound good.

From doing my own research the best way to achieve the power, performance, and simplicity I wanted was the following:

• Four total LM3886 chips, 2 per channel in a bridged configuration
• 300VA 24V Transformer (with all of the filtering caps/ bridge rectifier for the - and + DC supplies)
• 23 step ladder type attenuator with Vishay dale resistors (volume control)
• 3 position switch for more gain control (if needed)
• 2 dual Burson V6 Vivid op amps (this would be 4 total op-amps, 2 for the signal preamp, and 2 for inverting the the audio signal for running the LM3886's in the bridge configuration.)
• All of the needed filtering caps/inductors and resistors for feedback/gain.

This is the main design of the amplifying/ signal processing I have so far. I plan on soldering all of the through hole components onto a protoboard. I am not the best at this yet and looking to gain some knowledge with this build.

I know that running them in the bridged configuration is not optimal (more heat dissipation/load impedance issues), but parallel is too complex for me.

Will this design work well? I would appreciate any input and help with the circuit design.

This was my first project of my own design from over a decade ago. MTM with two 6.5" Peerless HDS PPB's, and a ScanSpeak D2608 tweeter. Left and Right in curve sided boxes, and one with rectangular sides for center channel. A friend helped with Xover design. This turned out to even better than I had hoped.

Anyone have good t-s parameters for the PE buyout 6.5” poly woofer (299-609)? The ones they have listed don’t make any sense, and some bits are missing (like sd).

I’ve always used it open baffle but I have a few left I’d like to see if it can play nice in a box for a portable.

So, I am currently working on FAST setup, combining two W8-2145s and two RSS210HF-4s.

The W8s are 8 ohm and 90dB/m/w. The RSSs are 4 ohm and 85.6dB/2.83V/m.

My plan is to bi-amp the setup for easier crossover tuning through EQ Apo. A UMIK-1 is also on the way. The two amps I plan on using are S-75 MKIIs from t.amp. They are rated for 75W at 4 ohm and 45W at 8 ohm.

The amps have different amplification modes, but I plan on running them both at -26dB.

So then, assuming both amps are set to the same volume through the dials in the front, will the RSSs gain an additional 2 dB due to the amp being able to push more power? Or will they effectively both be running at their "rated" sensitivies, meaning the W8s need to be dialed back a little?

Volume is just about 4.2l, calculated with WinISD. Here, the volume is very close to that, accounting for everything. This design is supposed to be printed in 10 parts, 4 inner and 4 outer walls, top and bottom. Then the inner and outer walls are screwed together using glue, and the spaces filed with plaster with a bit of PVA glue. Walls opposite with each other are screwed together with screws going diagonally across. The screws might intersect with the speaker driver, but I'll fix that. Took inspiration from a couple different sources, like "DIY Perks".

Can you point out any deficiencies with this design?

Edit : Yea, forgot to give some dimensions.

enclosure inner dimensions are 140mm*140mm*230mm.

Wall shells are 2mm thick in this design. Walls have an inner cavity thickness of 8mm, giving a total thickness of 12mm for each wall. Wall shells are held together with screws and sealed with glue.

For the speakers, I'll be using a pair of PC83-4 3'' from Dayton audio. This design uses passive radiators. I haven't settled on the tweeters yet, still planning this project out.

Sorry for the inconvenience, thanks in advance.