/r/astrophotography
/r/astrophotography celebrates amateur astrophotography and will primarily focus on sharing and discussing the work of our members. We encourage sharing original content of real astronomical objects as a means of showcasing that work with those who enjoy astrophotography, inspiring those who are new to astrophotography, and requesting and providing constructive feedback on the work.
Welcome to /r/Astrophotography!
We are reddits dedicated astrophotography subreddit. If you want to see or post pictures of space taken by amateurs using amateur level equipment, this is the place for you!
Got a question? Ask away! also check the Wiki, or check out /r/AskAstrophotography.
For just landscape astrophotography, check out /r/LandscapeAstro
For extra help, check out and subscribe to our Partnered-Subreddit, /r/AskAstrophotography!
/r/astrophotography
Just to geek out a bit: This is a single 42% screenshot from NINA of a single subframe of an 8 min exposure of the Heart Nebula with a 2nm Ha Filter from Chroma on my (self-) modified CGX-L mount, with around 0.5 arc second guiding error! The best guiding I have seen so far this night was down to 0.44 arc seconds of guide error… I know, I know you all just care for pretty pics, but I am truly impressed about how exact the guiding of such heavy gear can get under good seeing conditions… Under Bortle 4-5 skies with a sky quality meter reading of (just) 19.3
My first attempt at the rosette nebula from my backyard
Acquisition details Stellarvue SVX102-T Asi2600mc Pro Optolong L-enhance filter HEQ5 Pro mount Bortle 6 zone 50x300’s lights calibrated with appropriate frames Stacked and processed in Siril, simulated Hubble pallet and touched up in Lightroom
Hopefully y’all enjoy it
Acquisition Details 🕒 Integration: 4 hours of light frames + 20 bias and flat frames 🔭 Telescope: ZWO FF65 (f/6, 416 mm focal length) 📷 Camera: ASI533 MC 🌌 Tracker: Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer GTi 🔭 Guide Scope: ZWO 30 mm f/4 📷Guide Camera: ASI120 MM
The Horse Head Nebula (B33) and Flame Nebula (NGC 2024) are both located in the constellation Orion. Captured from Oahu bright and early on 12/1. Team no sleep 😂. Pretty stoked to have captured the Horse Head Nebula. Wasn’t sure it was possible with my gear when I started down this rabbit hole. I wasn’t sure if these settings would work, but fairly happy with the results. If anyone has tips or suggestions please comment.
180 lights 30 Dark 10 flat frames 10 offset frames
Stacked in Siril. Processed in photoshop. Starnet to remove stars for processing nebula in Photoshop. Final processing in Photoshop. denoise in Topaz AI. Camera settings for lights: 400mm F5.6 30 sec shutter iso 2500
My gear: Canon R6 mk ii Canon EF 400mm f5.6 Gitzo GT2542 star adventurer 2i
Hi everyone!! Daughter of an astrophotographer here!
I do not know anything about astrophotography but what I do know is my dad takes amazing photos (check out his astrobin page: https://www.astrobin.com/users/dirks/)
I thought it would be the perfect christmas gift to print out one of his photos, frame it, and gift it to him. I have attempted this in the past just by getting it printed at CVS and it did not do the photo justice (it was grainy, the brightness was weird, the colors were off, etc.)
I was wondering if anyone knows how I can get a photo of The Soul Nebula printed in a way that does the photo justice! If anyone has or knows a business that prints astrophotography OR can just give me some tips and point me in the right direction of how to do it myself PLEASE let me know! Thanks guys :)
(i’ll attach the image i’d like to print) Acquisition details: date: Nov. 4, 6-8, 10, 2024 integration: 28h 30’ avg. moon age: 5.66 days field radius: 1.519 degrees …more info. on AstroBin
Pleiades: Nikon Z5, Redcat 51, 18x30sec - November 2021. Stacked in DSS and edited in PS following astrobackyard’s pdf guide.
Moon (detail): Nikon Z8, 70-200/2.8 + 2x TC (400mm, f/5.6), 1/800s, iso 200 (single frame)
Moon (overexposed for glow): 400mm, f/5.6, 1sec, iso 800
Moon images taken 11/16/2024 ~1am ET
Moon images edited in Lightroom for exposure, detail, white balance and combined with Pleiades shot in PS using layer masks and blending modes. Pleiades aligned with moon exactly as they were the night of the moon images.
Edgehd8 with 0.7 reducer, am5, asi 533mm mono. 3 sec subs about 20 each in LRGB. Edited in pixinsight
Captured from the Emirates Astronomical Observatory in southern Abu Dhabi (Bortle 3) using a Sharpstar 13028HNT, ASI2600MC Air, AM5. Captured 96 light frames of 120s each, 60 darks, bias, flats, and dark flats.
In PixInsight:
1. Stacking:
• Use WBPP (Weighted Batch Preprocessing) to calibrate, align, and stack lights, darks, flats, dark flats, and bias frames.
2. Image Solving:
• Solve the image to associate it with celestial coordinates for further color correction and annotation.
3. SPCC (Spectrophotometric Color Calibration):
• Apply SPCC to achieve accurate color calibration based on spectral information.
4. GraphXpert:
• Use GraphXpert to remove gradients due to light pollution.
5. DynamicCrop: Crop the image to remove unwanted edges or artifacts from stacking.
6. BlurXTerminator: reduce star bloating and refine details.
7. Convert to non-linear using GHS.
8. NoiseXTerminator: Reduce noise while preserving fine details in the image.
9. CurvesTransformation (First Instance): Adjust saturation curves.
8. HistogramTransformation: Stretch the image histogram for proper tone mapping and visibility of faint details.
9. CurvesTransformation (Second Instance): Refine contrast and color adjustments for red and blue channels.
10. Dark Structure Enhancement.
11. CurvesTransformation (Third Instance): Final tweaks to the tonal range and colors.
12. SCNR: Remove green noise or unwanted color cast using the SCNR tool.
6. Export: Save the final processed image as a TIFF file for further refinement in Lightroom.
In Lightroom Classic:
1. Import TIFF: Load the exported TIFF image into Lightroom Classic.
2. HDR Conversion:
• Convert the image to HDR for extended tonal adjustments.
3. Exposure Adjustment: Fine-tune exposure levels for overall brightness.
4. Contrast Adjustment: Enhance contrast for better detail differentiation.
5. Clarity Adjustment: Adjust clarity to improve mid-tone contrast and perceived sharpness.
6. Export as HDR JPEG XL.
I’ve been looking to use the ASIAIR mini with my Iexos-100 would this be possible if so would I need to buy anything extra?
This was a test run to see what settings worked best. Will more data allow for more detail? Or am I pretty much maxed out with the gear I have?
100 images captured. Weeded out 20 or so for movement (unfortunately there were some winds early in the evening) 80 lights 30 Darks 10 flats 10 offsets Stacked in Siril. Final processing in Photoshop with denoise in Topaz AI.
Light Frame Capture settings: 400mm F5.6 30 sec shutter iso 1600
My gear: Canon R6 mk ii Canon EF 400mm f5.6 Gitzo GT2542 star adventurer 2i
Camera: ASI533MM Pro Scope: GT71
9 hours
R: 60, 180sec G: 60, 180sec B: 60, 180sec
Equipment
Juwei-14 harmonic drive mount
Askar fra400 with f3.9 reducer
OGMA AP26CC camera
Antila triband ultra rgb filter
Gemini focuser
100x300s at - 10c
Gain 100, offset 300, 20x3s flats with darks
Pixinsight
WBPP
Graxpert
BlurX correct only
SPCC
BlurX
NoiseX
Ez soft stretch
StarX
HDR blending
Curves
BlurX
Nebula enhance
NoiseX
Export as tiff
Mobile lightroom slight lighting adjustment, export as jpg
Camera: Canon 700da, Lens: Csnon 50mm F1.8, Startracker fron Skywatcher
Iso 800, F4, 4min×61=4h 4min Exposure Time, Bortal 4 Sky
Stacked in DSS, Post Processing in Siril and Graxpert
Equipment: canon 90d Tripod 70-200 f2.8 Untracked
275 x 1.6s lights No calibration frames
Bortle 4-5
Background extraction in siril, followed by star removal and stretching, then star recompostion
Happy with results, still new to astrophotography so would appreciate any tips
9.25 sct with asi 462mm IRGB and 2.5x Barlow