Hoping someone can ELI5. I bought an ASIAIR and guide scope/camera to use with my R8 camera and Star Adventurer GTi, only to realize the R8 isn’t supported by the ASIAIR.

What is the best setup with what I have? Would I use the ASIAIR for guiding, and then take exposures via the SynScan Pro app with the intervalometer cable connected to the Star Adventurer? Can I use the guide camera to polar align and star align, and then snap away with the R8? Is there something I’m missing here that would make that impossible?

I have a Canon R10 and a Bresser 70/350 (the latter was a gift from my parents)

I’ve loved the night sky since I was a little kid. I wanted to be an astronomer but I never had the mathematic skills.

I’ve always thought astrophotography was unachievable for me. I now know it isn’t, but I’m not sure what I need to get started? I know I need a T-Ring to screw my camera to my telescope, and there’s things like mounts, trackers, software, stacking, filters. I’m also looking into getting the rokinon 135mm lens.

I’m lost and completely clueless on what else I need. I don’t have a lot of money right now, but that could change in the future. I have autism (asperger’s syndrome) so I’d just really appreciate some help as I get confused easily.

Would anyone be willing to help? What do I need as a minimum, and what can I look into later on? I want to get as good as I can. I aim to eventually get a dedicated camera but that won’t be for a long time.

What software do you use to create composite photos, like ones I have seen of the recent eclipse?

Well hello there,

I recentcly got a dwarf2, the Autofokus isnt working correctly and i got a second one as replacment. While it cant Autofokus, i can do it manualy. Would it be a good Idea to shoot the Same target with both of them and then combine the Data in siril? Or are the two Units too different?

I'm looking to get a new main camera, I'm getting it for non astro use (landscape type stuff), but obviously would use it for astro too as it would be a significant upgrade over my current 700D until I decide to get a dedicated astro cam. So I'd like to know how these two cameras compare in astro use to help me make an informed decision.

I'm looking at either of the R5 or R6 II, I know the R5 is very highly rated for astro, the R6 II is a little cheaper and is a newer camera.

I've seen people get good results in areas with high light pollution by shooting shorter exposures (30s) and integrating a lot of data. Even without filters.

With modern cameras handling high ISO well, and image processing tools to reduce the noise even further, is there a benefit in having a guide scope to take longer (5min) exposures? Could you achieve similar results with an unguided mount at 1min exposures by taking 5x the amount of pictures?

I guess that guiding becomes more necessary at higher focal lengths, or that having longer exposures gives you more dynamic range (a concept I still don't fully understand), but I'd like to hear your opinions.

LXD74 mount + tripod for €300. Is this a good deal in 2024?

I came across the deal above on a second hand marketplace site. I was looking for a capable tracking mount for some low-key AP (I'm still a beginner looking for my first motorized rig), the Goto would be a nice plus. Albeit it being an ancient model, I reckon this would do the job for some low FL nightscapes, but I wonder if this mount could give me decent imaging results with longer focal lenses for the "easy" DSOs or even if I could push it to the 500mm of a 4.5" Newtonian.

Anyways, my main concern, and the actual doubt is that I would be overpaying for such an old piece of equipment or - even if it's in good condition and working fine - that it wouldn't fulfill my needs and should just look for a star adventurer.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts :)

[Edited for clarity]

Are there any tips that I can try? I only have a DSLR and a tracking mount, along with a 50mm 1.8 lens.

I attempted stacking the Milky Way using just light frames, but it turned out with not many details revealed. I also didn't use calibration frames because I'm still learning how many I should take.

I utilize DSS for stacking and Siril for processing. However, I'm curious if there are other programs that can provide better results.

Additionally, if there are any other unusual methods, please share them with me!

I just bought the following as my first setup

-EQ 6 R pro

• William optics zenithstar 81

• William optics Flattener/focal Reducer x0.8 flat 6AIII

• ZWO asi533MC Pro

• asiair mini

• Zwo asi 120mm-s

• Zwo 30F4 mini scope

• PI and RC astro tools.

• jackery explorer 500

Everything is bought used except the asiair mini. Total around 3800 euro. Am I forgetting anything els that I would need? Next purchase would probably be a filter. I will be shooting in between bortel 6 and 4 and sometimes 7/8.

Any recommendations on a filter?

Currently have an eos 1300d. Looking to buy a used canon to Astro modify.

I’ve only done a few different image stacks on deep sky stacker and pixinsight. My one photo turned out really good but my others don’t. They have a grey background and a lot of noise. But I used the same processes in the same order through pixinsight. My good picture I took dark and flat frames. Do they make that huge a difference? And do you have any other tips?

Hi folks. I'm following this guide — https://blog.martinbelan.com/2020/08/14/how-to-mount-a-guide-scope-to-your-dslr-mirrorless-camera-without-a-telescope/ -- on how to get a guide scope mounted to my mirrorless camera and attached to a Star Adventurer GTi.

The guide does not go into how you would get the L-bracket attached to my Vixen dovetail plate. Does anyone know the best way to do that? The L-bracket in question is: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXW9DTGX?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details

Anyone know what part I might need to make this work?

Is there any real difference between these cameras? I'll be using one of them for astrophotography, landscapes, Milky Way photos etc. they all seem to be highly recommended and can't really tell the difference with the specs

Name: t3/600d

Name: t51

Name: a6400

Name: d5300

Name: d5600

Name: canon eos ra

Name: canon rebel dir

Name: Sony a7s Ill

Name: Z6

Name: Nikon D780

Name: Z6il

Name: canon 50d

Name: canon eos 6d

I'm getting a camera for my birthday but I'm not sure what one I should ask for . I want to use it with a star adventurer GTi and I want one for about £300 .i want to take pictures of DSOs .I am only a beginner to astrophotography so a y help would be appreciated. If I should get any other accessories or lenses let me know . Thanks for any help

Hi all! I’ve been using my EAF for a while, however it has never worked correctly. The stars are never perfectly in focus and I’ve just been manually using it to focus from inside using the asi air controller. It’s really annoying. I don’t have any images of what’s going on. But for reference I have a William Optics FLT120 With an ASI533mm pro, and idk the step size or any other crap i need to use. I just want it to work honestly. Any suggestions?

I tried to shoot the Leo triplet some time ago and stacked an hours worth of exposures to see no details. Now, I know an hour is not the longest integration time but if I increase it to 8-10 hours, is there any chance of seeing good detail on this target?

I have a Redcat 51, ASI 533 MC Pro and can dither + drizzle

Title, really.

• These two are ~$100 difference.
• FRA is quintuplet vs PHQ quadruplet
• both have two ED elements
• FRA 108 mm aperture v 107 PHQ
• 600 mm v 749 mm f.l.
• FRA is faster at F/5.6 v PHQ F/7.
• Both are flat field - so no additional flattener needed
• Both have large image circles (60 v 44)

Gear on hand to pair with them —

• Mount: iOptron HAE29EC
• Camera: APS-C DSLR (for now)
• Other: Guide scope if needed, 0.7x reducer, etc. Nothing that would be special for one over the other.

Seems like the FRA would be the way to go .. petzval quint, faster, larger circle for bigger sensor later on. The f.l. delta doesn’t seem too big to matter really.

But I’d love to hear your thoughts and opinions on these two! Which would you buy and why?

Edit: formatting is a thing

As stated recently, I'm building a rig little by little and the only piece I have is the telescope. I'm constantly looking around at what camera I might want to buy, and just for education purposes I've been perusing ZWO cooled cameras. With my Askar 80-PHQ, it's basically saying that only the ASI183MM or MC is going to give me excellent seeing. I mean, how strict is this evaluation. It doesn't seem to be helping me with selecting a camera at all, and the 183 is certainly not any of the popular ones I see being used like the 2400 or 533. Should I just go with the best selection? Should I just go with the best choice in that regards? It really doesn't make it any clearer on what kind of camera I should be picking.

Please advise, thanks!

Hi what's a great camera for a beginner photographer please? I'd like to do mainly landscape photography whilst travelling the world (sunsets, sunrises, buildings) and also would really like to start photographing the night sky/ northern lights.

Can somebody please recommend a good camera budget is around £700 (don't mind buying secondhand) and also recommended lens for the camera you recommend please Any advice or recommendations is highly appreciated I have searched myself but people on TikTok/ YouTube are usually advocates for brands so l don't really trust it as much as I would people on here, thank you for your time (:

Ask air mini WiFi randomly disconnects sometimes it’s after 10 minutes, sometimes it’s after 2 minutes. It interrupts the autorun everytime this happens. Doesn’t seem to matter how close I am to the unit (using 2.4ghz for better obstacle clearance, 5ghz has same issue) it doesn’t automatically reconnect either in the app even if the iPad automatically rejoins the network when it comes back.

Left my GTi(non-AZ) tracking a target last night. Had my ASI set up to turn off after capturing my lights, but I walked out this morning and the camera had caught the tripod. And the tracker was making a repeating clicking noise. I took it off made sure everything looked ok and set it up again tonight. Now while it’s tracking it gets way off in the DEC. so I turned tracking sensitivity down pretty low on that so it wasn’t correcting back and forth. Pics are mainly in focus but getting some oblong stars.

So that’s my story. My question: think this is something I could fix(I’m handy) or should I contact Sky Watcher support?

I would like to start with astrophotography soon. Do you think the SW SA GTi Wi-Fi GoTo works well with a skywatcher EvoStar 72ed and a canon EOS 70D camera that I already own? It's nothing crazy and not too expensive. Do you think I should go for it?

Hello everyone,

I’m new to the world of astro-photography and I’m looking to get started with my first setup. I live in a country where second-hand equipment is not readily available, so I’m considering purchasing from an online store like Astroshop.

My idea is to start with photos of the moon and other planets, and then go to Deep Sky Objects.

I’ve been recommended the Skywatcher 200p with an EQ5 Pro SynScan GoTo mount. However, I’ve read some reviews that suggest the weight might be pushing the limit, which could potentially cause issues.

I wanted to get your opinions on this setup. Would it be manageable for a good amount of time before needing an upgrade? Or do you have other recommendations that might be more suitable?

The entire setup costs a bit more thatn 1k€ and I wanted to spend a bit less but if this is a good setup I don't mind spending this money. Is the 150PDS a better choice?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!

I wanna do planetary AP with future dobsonian. I've seen MaxVision is a bit cheaper than Skywatcher. But I wanna know how good is mirror quality and experience. Like GSO dobsonian mirror's quality are significantly better than Skywatcher, yet easy to use.

I lived in Southeast Asia btw.

Here's the image I'm dealing with. I used the built in intervalometer on my D7200, and it ended up stopping early for some reason. Didn't realize it for a few mins, reset it, and now have a gap in the middle of the trail. Any suggestions on how to get rid of it?

https://flic.kr/p/2pLQybV

Hi, I'm just starting astrophotography and I want to move from untracked to using a mount. I have a 300mm f5.6 lens with and aps-c camera but I also have a 1.7x teleconverter which effectively brings it to 510mm at f7.1. So, I was wondering what would be a good mount for this setup. I was looking at the sky watcher 2i pro but I'm worried that the focal length of my lens would be to much for it. I'm really interested in galaxies which is why I would really like to be able to use my longer lens.

I have a canon EOS 2000d and a 75-300mm telephoto lens. I want to take deep sky astrophotography taking pictures of the Andromeda galaxy and the orion nubula. I was looking into the star adventurer GTI. Is that a good tracker? Is the telephoto lens good or should I invest in a better lens. Open to suggestions for better tracker+lens/telescope combo. I would like to keep my budget under $2000. Thanks in advance.

Hello all. I will try to keep this as short as possible, though I do need to offer some detail. DISCLAIMER: I am a novice at this, so my learning curve is a work in progress.

Just bought a SA GTI and took it out last night for the first time to learn how to polar align and GoTo before adding my camera, etc. Ran into a couple of issues that I hope I can get some advice on.

First, I was able to find Polaris in the polar scope, though getting it where it needed to be was tough. It first appeared in the extreme upper left of the scope, so I had to adjust the tripod to get it close to the top of the polar clock and that was painstaking. The slightest adjustment of the tripod was enough to send the star to the other extreme. Took about 45 minutes to get it to near the polar clock.

Second, the get it where it needed to be, I actually had to lower the scope with the latitude adjustment knob (saw Nico Carver do this on his SA PA video). However, that adjusted my latitude setting to 41, whereas I am at 42 degrees, so I am concerned that threw everything off.

After this, I tried a one star alignment and chose Regulus. It did slew to the star but it was well off center, so I had to center manually, which is tricky (was using an eyepiece since this was a practice run). Eventually the alignment was done, so I slewed to a few objects and most were well off-center. I went back to Polaris and while it was in the viewfinder, it was near the edge of the field of view.

So the question is, what must I do differently to solve the issues? The first being how to move Polaris left and right in the polar scope and the second being accurate GoTo. With stars I can adjust manually, but with deep sky objects which are not readily visible manual centering (and also tracking) is going to be tough.

Thanks in advance for your patience and advice!

I am currently using a Canon R7 with a Canon 100-400 L lens mounted on a Star Adventurer 2i. Is there a benefit to switching to a dedicated telescope with auto-guider? Specifically, there is someone selling a Celestron 102SLT for $350 near me. I would like to autoguiding functionality over only rotation that my star adventurer limits me to, but not if that dramatically decreases my image quality. Alternatively, would it be better to just invest in a autoguiding mount, similar to the OpenAstroTech offering? Thanks.

Not sure if this is possible since it’s a film camera but I was considering the idea of using a Minolta SRT 101 with my Celestron Nexstar 130 SLT. What equipment would I need and is this even possible? Furthermore how exactly would I go about doing this? Thanks