Good morning, lately I’ve been trying to do astrophotography from the city. I can’t go to a darker location, but I have the issue that if I take an exposure longer than 10 seconds, the photo comes out very bright, almost as if it were daytime. I don’t think it’s due to moonlight, since the moon is only 30% visible.

Could it be light pollution? I’m in a Bortle 7 area and I’m using a mirrorless camera with a 45mm f/3.5 lens combined with a Sky-Watcher Star Adventurer.

Any tips for taking longer exposures?

I want to know what would be a good possible, somewhat budget upgrade to my current setup in the future. I am currently using a Canon Mark iii, Samyang 135mm F2, Star adv mini and just my laptop to control and take pictures. A

Hello, I'm planning a star trails session with a group of teenagers and young adults. We will try to focus on smartphone photography for a start, as nearly everybody has one this days. Do you have any tips on photography apps for iPhone ? Preferably free, or not very costly. I'm searching for fully integrated solutions (like Nightcap) but also for intervalometer like solutions (with the stacking done on a computer). Thanks !

I am about to pull the trigger on the Spencer’s H-Alpha mod for my Sony a7riii with only 35k shutter actuations. The question is, is it really worth paying the $100 extra to have them reinstall the dust reduction system? To be honest, I usually just use air to remove dust and I photoshop out dust spots if they show up which doesn’t seem to be all the time. This camera will be used for wide angle Milky Way shots and some blue hour shots to blend landscapes with Milky Way. I never really deal with dust and I have never cleaned the sensor.

Why is my raw photo is green? Is it suppose to be like that and you need to edit it or what? Im using my poco x3 pro that have astrophotography mode in it.. https://photos.app.goo.gl/bpzzNkAX1DCfCqoi9

Currently Shooting with a Canon R6 Mark II and have rented the Sigma F 1.4 20mm ART Lens (Using an Adapter to EF) quite a few times with really good results. Sadly this lens isn’t made anymore or I’d buy my own. Is there any other comparable options that y’all would recommend or should I try to find a nice second hand one and continue what I’m doing.

I have a budget of MAX $800, and I'd just like to know if anyone might have suggestions. I'm a beginner and looking to take photos of the moon/planets and some galaxies/nebulae.

PCC has stopped working for me for the past month or so.
It has worked great until recently
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Screen shot in link
https://imgur.com/a/TDsMnFW

I have an EOS rebel t2i, using the 75-300mm camera lens, and I'm just stuck on what setting specifics to use to get good photos instead of just white blobs

Hello, I'm deciding on getting my first ever star tracker, and the 2 that caught my eye were the Star adventurer 2i and the GTI. I've seen posts saying the GTI is better, but I'm curious how much better the GTI is compared to the 2i, and if it will matter at my level of astrophotography. Another benefit is the 2i is only 270$ (excluding tripod and counterweight) which is way cheaper than the 800$ for the full kit of the GTI. For reference, I have a fairly cheap beginner kit with just a Canon T3i with a 75-300mm lens.

Ive upgraded from a canon 2000d to an r50 and im starting to use nina now however for some reason when i take exposures there is a chance that it either doesnt save and the next exposure doesnt start. Also when i set exposure length to 180 seconds it turns everything green. I cannot ever trust it to run on its own. When i restart the camera it just says saving images until i unplug the usb cable

It is a meade 4504 connected to fujifilm finepix S1 pro through a nikon f to 1.25" adapter wich i then had to buy a 1.25" to 0.965" adapter is this a viable setup or should something else be chosen?

Last night I let my rig run, Redcat 51, Asiair Plus, SA GTi for about five hours tracking along with M 51. I know thats a reach for a Redcat but still wanted to do it. Used the Asiair for a great PA, had good looking guiding, let the Asiair put me center target (M51 Whirlpool)This morning am pretty sure it was off for some reason. I have used all of my Sky Apps trying to determine what part of the sky I was in. Even hooked Asiair back and checked it. My question is, is there an app or web site that can take a photo and ID what it is showing? I would like to know so I can better sort out what happened. I knew I wouldn't see it during my session. Was taking 180 sec exposures. If anyone can assist me I would appreciate it.

Hi everyone, I've always had interest in astrophotography but have never owned a telescope. After more than 10 years, I'm finally thinking of getting my first telescope, but with a budget up to £200 or slightly over. Please let me know if you have any good suggestions. Thank you x

I've been into visual astronomy for several months now but have had the itch to try out astrophotography. I got a Canon Rebel T7 and tried the Orion Nebula with the standard lens it came with (18-55mm). I had it mounted on a tripod with a shutter release and took around 150 2 second exposures.

I stacked them in deep sky stacker and edited with Siril, although I'm new to photography in general and am a little lost when it comes to the editing and just followed some general advice from some videos I've watched and asking chatgpt

Here is the final image: https://imgur.com/a/tSM2vle

Quality doesn't seem super great which I assume because it's zoomed in too much on the crop. Not too worried about that seems like a simple fix. The main things I want to figure out is there seems to be an issue with the stars trailing or being kind of blotted. I don't have a tracking mount, but figured 2 second exposures would be short enough to avoid that issue, so not sure what's causing that.

Then the other thing is any advice for getting more detail out of the nebula? I took this in my backyard in bortle 8-9 skies so I understand that's not ideal but wondering if there was anything in editing or anything else I can do to bring out more of it

My lense's focus ring is quite loose in MF and i am scared that when pointing at targets higher up in the sky my focus wold change from gravity pulling on the focus ring. Is there an option to change my focus manually but when i am ready to shoot just lock the ring in place with AF motors and not have them change the focus during shooting ?? ps I have a shutter release if it might do something idk

Hello,

i am still kinda new to DSO astrophotography and after trying it for half a year with a canon 100D i am finally considering modifying my DSLR but i don't have that kinda money for a 200eur modification and i am considering doing a DIY mod but i can't find a tutorial specifically for my canon 100D, i need your help finding a tutorial that shows every step instead of for example (i found a tutorial that only shows which screws to unscrew and ribbon cables to disconnect but it doesn't show how to put it back and how to do it in general) please help me find a tutorial for doing this mod.

Hello, I’m new to astrophotography and I’m just curious about some videos I came across on YouTube that really didn’t explain certain points. What is a stacked photo. I mean I get the concept stacking multiple photos but just why? Or why do it. In my tiny brain what can taking photos of the same angle do to help capture something. For me it’s just like an overlay but the same angle (hopefully that makes sense). Please again let this noobie why it’s being done like this. And if you have examples also be free to show them off :)

I have a Canon EOS 750d and my scopes thingy size have 1.25".

I have a Sony E mount 400mm lens that has been treating me very well but have been looking into full spectrum. And was wanting to buy a camera but can’t really afford a telescope yet would it be possible to mount any form of Astro camera to an e mount lens

I've been advised that a good place to start equipment wise would be a:

• Tripod
• Tracker
• DSLR

-135mm lens

• counterweight

Would you agree and could you give any recommendations for the above?

Feel free to direct me to previous posts!

Many thanks :)

I recently got an Askar 71f and only used it twice, both times I get these weird flats. It definitely looks like dust or something but it’s so bad compared to my Samyang 135mm.

Here’s a comparison of stacked flats between the two.

Should I be concerned with how dirty the Askar seems , being brand new?

https://imgur.com/a/Thpve7S

Edit: Both are screenshots from Siril using the “Histogram” view

First time using this older ED127 APO I got from a club member. It is also the first time using my asi2600mm duo and SHO filters. Brighter stars appear to have two legs coming out of it. Any thoughts? https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1334338509326123008/1335750135807868992/image.png?ex=67a14dc1&is=679ffc41&hm=24f736197fb359fd5c73bd418eb0267ec7f58d7782f727714608c2e47477991a&

I'm looking for a refractor for astrophotography using my APS-C camera. I checked a couple of focal lengths using a simulator and found that the

- Askar FRA400 (f/5.5) or the

- Omegon Pro APO AP 80/500 ED Carbon (f/6.25) or the

- Omegon Pro APO AP 85/510 Triplet ED FCD-100 (f/6)

frame the things nicely - I'm a flexible there... I'm not familiar with the refractor offerings, as I use more reflectors at home. But this scope is for traveling, thus it should not be too large/heavy/expensive. However, it could be up to 100mm. It must have good optics. I will be absolutely annoyed if the stars are bad in the corners...

Considering these options, is there an obvious pick that I miss? Is there a scope that I should not get for one or the other reason?

Thanks

Using the ASIAIR for the first time and I am having an issue with guiding. Its like every other photo has stars that have clearly moved in the middle of the exposure. I am not sure what is causing this. I had assumed that with the ASIAIR platesolving it would mean throughout the night the target would be centered and focused, but I do not know if that is the case now.

I notably do not have a guide camera, only a main camera. Is this the main culprit? Or is there a setting where the ASIAIR is platesolving and correcting in the middle of the exposure being taken?

Non-blurry photo taken

Blurry photo taken immediately after as the next exposure

I've tried my celestron origin and it works over wifi but gosh is the software glitchy and a constant headache. I've seen things like backyardnikon and a few other programs that allow you to run your camera via computer. When you add in a star tracking head and telescope to the mix, how complicated does this get? Or is there a single program that does all of this with the right equipment?

Hi, Im new in astrophotografy and i want to do my first expedition, i have a mirrorless camera, a sky tracker (sky adventurer) and a 14-45 mm lens.

What are the simplest targets to try to catch?

Thank u all :)

When I click Plugins > Available nothing shows up. Assumed it would have been populated during the install? Running 3.1 HF2. I do show 3 Point Polar Alignment in the installed tab.

Hi everybody, I am still trying to decide which Mount to buy. I am now stuck between the Mount CEM26 GoTo iPolar LiteRoc and the Mount AZ-EQ5-GT SynScan GoTo. Both have the same price on astroshop.eu so that is not a criteria. My most important criteria is probably the tracking accuracy. I am not sure but I've read somewhere that the AZ-EQ5-GT comes with belt drive, which I am not sure about. How do center balanced equatorial mounts compare to a GEM mount with a belt drive ? Also the AZ EQ 5 GT has a higher weight capacity, which is an advantage

Which mount would you buy ?

Thanks for your help

Every post about taking flats that I see says orientation and focus has to be exactly the same, but if that was true flat frames would be impossilbe. There is always some tube flexure, or thermal expansion that is going to make your flats be at a slightly different focus and orientation to the lights. So what are the margins of error for taking flats? Can I make a mark on my focuser and camera adapter to index how the camera was oriented? Same with focus. Or is this not accurate enough?

I just realized I had a similar issue with polar alignment. The standard online advice seems to be to minimize polar alignment error. O.k., but what does "minimize" mean. I thought it meant get it down to the arc second, until I found this calculator and realized I just need to get within a few arc minutes. Which was way easier and saves a lot of time.