/r/reloading
/r/Reloading is a place for civilized discussions on the topic of Metallic and Shotshell reloading
A subreddit for reloading.
Remember, if you post a picture, make sure to provides some context.
Please make sure you title is relevant to the specific question you are asking. Posts titled "Help! New Reloader." will have less responses than a post titled like "Questions about crimp for .357 Mag for a revolver."
r/Reloading discord join us for supplies and helpful conversation: Https://discord.gg/reloading
Please contribute to the FAQ!
Sales and exchanges of reloading equipment and tools should be posted on r/ReloadingExchange per the rules of that subreddit. Sales and exchanges of any type are prohibited in r/Reloading.
Other Subreddits you may be interested in:
If you’re interested in using reddit for self-promotion check out our Official Spam Policy.
/r/reloading
I picked up a second (vintage) RCBS Rock Chucker press today for $50 with a NIB powder measure and stand. I'd like to set one up as a decap/forming station and the other as a seat/crimp station and minimize die changes. I've been very pleased with my first one, using it for 6.5 Grendel loading.... with one exception- the right handed pull handle. Does anyone know of I could swap a new ambi toggle block for the RH only one on these. A LH pull would fit my workspace better.
Hey folks,
I’ve seen a few reports pop up about criterion barrels causing some signs of overpressure on peoples’ cases (popped primers, ejector swipes, etc.). The consensus from many in the comments is that this is likely due to a combination of ammunition issues, and “headspace issues”. Many recommend to get their headspace checked.
I do not have this problem with any of my barrels, but this has been bothering me for a few days and I’m wondering if anyone can explain this to me like I’m 5: how in the hell can tight headspace cause a significant pressure spike? I’ve reloaded thousands of rounds, and 99% of my rifle cases are resized as little as possible from their fired condition (1-2 thousandths), which would mean that my chamber has a pretty tight headspace relative to my sized cases. Even when my cases are slightly undersized to the point where I encounter some resistance when closing my bolt, my velocities are still in line with what I would expect from that load and I don’t encounter any other obvious signs of overpressure.
Some have even suggested that excessive headspace could be the culprit, which makes even less sense to me. I have a 7.62x39 bolt action with a pretty roomy chamber - when shooting factory ammo the primer will back out slightly to fill up the extra space, but this is in no way an indicator of high pressure (honestly, it’s probably an indicator of LOW pressure).
Let’s pretend that criterion (or any barrel manufacturer) reams a chamber that is on the small side of spec - as long as the case still chambers, the peak pressure that that round is capable of producing should still be damn near the same as it would be if the chamber was a couple thousandths bigger, correct?
I can certainly see how other chamber dimensions could affect pressure (specifically the throat/free bore, etc.) but how in the world can short HEADSPACE alone cause popped primers?
Is this just a case of people misusing the term “headspace” to simply say: “something about your chamber dimensions are messed up”. Hell, AM I just misusing the term “headspace”?
This is something I've wondered for a while in general. I'm a big varmint hunter so I handload for 22-250 and shoot factory 223. I've never had a problem with hot brass in my 22-250, on the contrary, it's not even warm to the touch after shooting. As opposed to 223 which is always blistering hot after shooting. Is this just a case design thing, powder burn, etc? Both are bolt guns if that matters.
Just sat down to do some .223 brass prep, got about 20 cases in sizing and depriming and got a stuck case. Thought it was just bad luck. Removed it, made sure I had enough lube on all the cases and went back to work. 10 cases later… another stuck case. I was a little more upset this time, this has never happened to me back to back. Removed it, again made sure cases had enough lube, and went back to work. 30 cases later, another stuck case. Now I’m pissed. I angrily get this case out and end up breaking the depriming pin. After getting it out I looked at all of the now removed stuck cases, they are all IMI headstamp. I am now separating all the IMI cases to throw away. Anyone have any ideas why this would happen? Never heard of anyone having problems with IMI.
Anyone else have a hard time with resizing or seating .356 diameter bullets with this brass? Did a run of 400 124gr XTP and I have 80 of them sitting on my bench to be pulled. Every other headstamp passes a gauge and plunk tests while Aguila consistently fails.
This common or entirely a user issue?
I have a 280 Ackley Improved rifle and was gifted 7 boxes of very nice Hornady 280 Remington 150gr ELD-X ammo. Seems to me I should be able to pull the projectiles, remove powder, resize the shoulder to Ackley Improved - then add the powder back, seat bullet and crimp. Should work.
I suppose out of a preponderance of caution the powder could be ditched and a new load used. Seems like a waste. Anyone have a reason why not to do this?
Where do I start with a lefty Rifle for 20 BM? I would like to get into shooting a small caliber, over 4,000 FPS and BM looks like what I’d like. I read I need to get some bushing for my dies and such, and can figure out. But what about a rifle?
Hey everyone, I’m finally pulling the trigger on my first press setup. I will be reloading several different calibers, including but not limited to 9mm, 45ACP, 300BO, and 308. I am planning on purchasing a Dillon XL750. I’ve got a budget of $1500, not including reloading components. My question is would you suggest I buy the press and accessories through Dillon’s website? I’ve seen bundles on third party sites that would save me some money, but I’m not sure if it would affect Dillon’s warranty or anything like that.
Before anyone suggests it, I know that a lot of people recommend single stage presses to learn. I, however, am the type of person that if I’m gonna buy something, I’m gonna buy for the long term. I also shoot a lot of the aforementioned calibers, so I want a setup that would be more time efficient. If after reading this you still think I’m stupid, I am more than willing to hear you out! Thank you for any help in advance!
Looking for bullet and load advice to simulate GP11 performance in Swiss 7.5mm
Brass = PPU Powders on hand = IMR 3031, IMR 4064 Primers = CCI or Winchester
so i found a trustworthy biz for bulk cases at MOJO precision. i got about 14K .223 and about 10K .308. i'm going to process a few thousand into .300aac. and load the rest for practice and hoard them.
I'm looking to see where those of you that buy bulk bullets, where you get them? just the basic 55-62 grn .22 and probably 160grn .308 and 200grn 300aac. FMJ
any one have a good source for 5-10k of each of these?
I have looked around to no avail except for one singular yes. Does anyone load Nosler 77gr RDF bullets to mag length for a ar-15? Or are the TMKs just easier to load for?
I have exhausted my Googling, so I figured I'd ask here: have any of y'all seen a family tree of sorts for brass cases? Ever since I started forming 300 BLK I am super curious about parent cases, etc, and what can be formed from what. Thanks in advance! (8 Mauser for attention).
So back in November 2023 I ordered one of these primer pocket swagers that had report of the main spring braking and of course after a short time the main spring on the one I got from Amazon broke.
I contacted FA about it using the phone number provided and they said they would send out a new unit. Thing is I could still use the one I had and after adding 3 rubber bands it worked just fine and I found it easier to use then the single stage RCBS swage and in all honesty better than the Lee APP swage unit.
So a couple of months go by and no new unit is delivered so I contacted them again using the reply email they sent me after my first contact with them. The unit was out of stock and as soon as they had new ones they would send one out.
So about 4 more months go by and I contact them again as I have not gotten the new swager. They offered to give me one of there products that listed for around $100. I chose some polishing compound for my tumblers. About 1.5 weeks later that showed up at my door and it included more than I had requested, actually double what I requested. So I thought that was the end of the story. In lieu of the new swager I got the polish. I was ok with that.
But just 3 days ago a UPS truck shows up at my house and drops off a package. I hadn't ordered anything, that hadn't already been delivered earlier in the week, so I was What the Fuck Did I Order that I don't remember. Open the box and it is brand new FA Platinum Series Primer Pocket Swager. This new one has a manufacturing date of 8/X/2024 so it is a brand new production run. Hopefully they fixed the main spring braking problem.
Can't say enough good things about Frankford Arsenal.
The rubber band on the new one, the one on the left, is to stop my 9mm brass from flying off the rod when the rod flips back out.
Are there any special considerations that one should take when reloading frangible ammo? Have some 9 mm interceptor copper polymer mix bullets and looking at buying some others like for 10 mm and 45. Just curious whether bullet seating, crimping Etc is the same or perhaps one should omit the crimping? The cost is just too good to say no for just plain range ammo.
I might be dumb, but I can’t seem to find a case holder in 7mm prc for the L.E wilson trimmer, is there something else that is already compatible with that case size?
Took a chance on ordering .32 cal FP projectiles fron LG Outdoors, seems like a lot of people were skeptical of the site and called it a scam. Not denying that, but I also got my order within a week, and got exactly what I asked for in factory sealed boxes. So maybe just some bad service but still a legit market? Not sure but I couldn't find the projectiles anywhere else, and LG had them for 35 cents a piece, can't complain tbh. I'm in Phoenix, AZ for reference.
I finally decided to start reloading after ~2yrs of competition shooting. I’ve narrowed down my choices to the dillon square deal b or the frankford x-10. I understand the best bang for your buck is a progressive press and I will probably only make 9mm for awhile (its the only caliber I own).
Anyway does anyone have any pros or cons for either press? I’m solidly stuck in the middle on which one to buy.
I am ordering stuff to load 38 SPL. I checked the 3 shell holders I have, and the RCBS #27 fits the brass really nice. RCBS lists it as a 40 S&W holder, and a #6 is listed as 38 SPL. Is there any rhyme or reason to all of this, or is it acceptable to just use what fits?
I finally found some brass and appropriate bullets now I need to figure out some loads. Unfortunately all my books don't have much on the 375 Winchester and the worst is I can't find powders locally that are listed. I have 200 and 220 grain jacketed flat points available and a bunch of IMR 4064. Does anyone have any advice besides keep looking for powder?
I don't want any hot loads as I'll be using for deer at maximum 200 yards. Just average velocity, and yes I know 4064 will be on the slower side to begin with.
This is my first year reloading. Are there typically good bulk prices on Black Friday? Im in need of a 9mm bullet shipment and I’m holding out in hope.
10 Round string of 223 and an SD of 16. That’s pretty good. We’ve got some equipment that I did t think it’d do that well.
Ordered some bullets on a good deal, but I’m currently holding off on powder and primers in hopes of prices dropping now that Trump won the election. I wasn’t into reloading in 2016 but I heard component and ammo prices dropped the last time he got into office. Good idea to keep waiting?
Want to run 110 Vmax maybe Barnes 110 Tac TX. What’s a good powder for supers? Wonder if AA#9 would work or not? I was told for subs Trail Boss is king daddy. But I haven’t seen that in store for a while.
Designed an improved ejector for the XL650/750 which works with the Entirely Crimson shellplate bearing and existing ejector wire. Thingiverse link below if you’d like to print your own!