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Got 3 bricks of the Federal. They had 3 cases. Had to save some for my brothers in Reloading.

Compiled some savings and discounts to get 8 pounds of autocomp powder for $220.29

Hello there wallet friendly 9mm.

My friends, I just have the opportunity to buy some WC844T powder. I live in Brazil, so there isn’t much choice of what I can get around here. I’ve never heard about this powder, can someone tell me if this is a model of powder made by some specific brand, or if it is a type of powder that many brands make using the same name?

Can I safely reload 5,56/.223 with this powder using non tracer 55gr bullets?

EDIT: the correct name of the powder is WC844T, sorry

Thank you!

Hey, I have a bunch of Bearden primed ammunition with bad primers it's 7.62x51 cetme brass cased. Anybody have experience with converting to boxer? Thanks

I've been the Lee six-pack pro however I haven't seen any long-term reviews on it that go into detail on how it performs. For instance, how many rounds can you make in an hour, how accurate is the ammo that you make, and how many rounds can you typically go before parts breakage/failure? Another thing I saw was some people saying it doesn't reload rifle ammo. Well, if any of the six pack pro owners on here can share their experiences it would be much appreciated.

Anyone see a difference when using chamber seating dies as opposed to conventional dies?

Thought I'd spend the money and find out before asking. I also have redding type s dies for loading 6.5 creed. Brass on hand are new lapua and starline looking to load hornady a tip 153gr and berger hybrid 153.5

My brother in law is trying to find the loading data on Orbea 410 3 inch hulls. Can anyone help me help him.

Had some points built up and I was tired of manually trickling/weighing each charge for my precision ammo. I know it might be off just a bit but I feel like it's probably tighter than the margin of error I had before.

Loaded up 100 .223 with 75gr ELDMs with 24.6gr of varget to see how my new build likes it. I completed that in less time than it took me to do 25rds a few nights ago.

If you're on the fence, do it.

Does anyone know where to get a metal driver clutch for a Lee pro 1000 or 4000?

For those loading for the 284Win what are your loads, velocities and are you shooting from a short action or long?

Hello,

I have recently begun reloading 7.62x54R using a Lee Loader (and arbor press instead of a hammer), but my loads are somehow worse than factory S&B 180gr.

I'm shooting new PPU brass, 150gr .312 bullets (my ex sniper Mosin slugged to .313) and using the correct lee dipper for Varget.

My loads are getting ~2-3in at 50yd, while S&B is within 1in at the same distance.

Any suggestions for improvement would be appreciated!

I'm going to be using spent PPU's straight walled brass along with their 98gr TCJ DEWC bullets. Does anyone have any hodgdon or other powders they would recommend? I know makarov.com mentioned AA#5, and some of the forums say trail boss (though with the shortage its almost impossible to get at a decent price).

I have no problem trimming cases but what Im running into is 80% of my brass is shorter than trim to length by .005-.01 of an inch. Should I trim them all to the shortest length for consistency or only trim the ones that are long enough? Its not for a precision rifle just an AR.

Just saying hi, new to the forum, not new to guns or handloading ammunition. Always curious to see what all people are loading for, and love talking about this stuff. I am a reloading junkie and plainly admit I enjoy handloading and tinkering with load development even more than shooting and hunting, I find cartridges interesting first, firearms second haha.

Currently load for my 243 win (savage 99), 257 weatherby magnum (weatherby vanguard s2 stainless), .270 win (savage 111), .30-30 (dads marlin 336) .300 win mag (savage 111 long range hunter model), .358 Norma magnum (Brno zg47), and the newest member of my family, the elephant gun, a .450 ackley (Winchester model 70 safari express super grade).

I have in the past loaded for .223 Remington, .220 swift, .308 Winchester, and 8x57 Mauser. Don’t have those guns anymore.

My next reloading adventure, Lord willing, will be getting into shotshell reloading which I have zero experience with. One day I’d also love to get into casting my own lead bullets, mainly for that big 450, the .30-30, and shotgun slugs.

What are YOU loading for these days?

Does anyone here shoot reloads through a S&W shield plus? I run 147 plated RN over 3 grains of titegroup at 1.145-1.150 oal this load runs my factory Shadow Systems DR920 and a Sig 1911 that i shoot in Limited Optics perfectly. Just curious to see if anyone is running reloads so I kind of have a reference of what seems to work.

A friend of mine has just acquired a case of .223 ammo and he wants to know the MV for his gun so he can create trajectory tables. The packaging or the website doesn't provide muzzle velocity and he doesn't have access to a chrony (I'm too far away to lend him mine).

However he knows what projectiles they are (Sierra Blitz Kings) so knows the BC and he does have access to a 200m range. So I'm wondering if he shoots groups at 50, 100 and 200 etc then plugs the drop and the BC into a calculator it could give him an estimated Muzzle Velocity.

Was digging through a buddies garage, and came across these little 4oz jugs. Apparently back in the day Hodgdon would sell sample packs of 4 powder with similar burn rates.

Went to work up some heavy target loads for .38 spl, noticed the aguila brass was stretching around the .357 SWC 158gr. (Not oversized and tried belling out the brass more) Tried an XTP with same result too. Tried to drop them in a k frame and they do not go in or out easy. Thoughts ?

New to this. Are these good if you stick with the correct OAL? if not does anyone have data for these? All the material I have specs a longer case.

My first conversion ever, 308 to 300 savage, now to fire form it. Any tips on fire forming ?

So. For whatever stupid reason I decided I wanted to try to reload 7 62x39 steel case. I found someone selling an easy to set up and use jig for drill a flash hole and decapping. Worked amazingly.

Tumbled em to little effect and went to prime them. Primer holes are too big. But just a little bit. Measured my starline and norma brass I've been using. 5.18mm. Same as a standard lrp. These pockets are all 5.33mm +/- .01. Guy I bought the kit from sells a sleeve to sleev down "over sized pockets" down to srps. Sounds great. His listed OD is 5.53mm. So im sorta stuck in between.

At this point I'm only out like $40 for the jig and I can maybe sell it to a buddy who reloads 54r. Research says that there's a specific primer for 7.62x39 called a tula kv-24n. Can't find anything about it and wondering if any of the folks who have been doing this since before russian importing went away might have a solution for either an equivalent or a solution.

If it's too expensive it defeats the purpose of the whole thing and I'll just quit while I'm only down $40.

The other thought I had was "is this why they all have sealant on em?" Are they just essentially gluing standard lrps into em?

Putting together a 6 BR and have seen a ton of people recommend Harrell’s - still the best way to go? I like that they’re semi-custom to your chamber.