/r/makerfarm
This is a subreddit for owners and potential owners of MakerFarm 3d printers or products. Join us if you love your MarkerFarm printer, are interested in one, or just want to learn a little bit about 3D printing.
This is a subreddit for owners and potential owners of MakerFarm 3d printers or products. Join us if you love your MarkerFarm printer, are interested in one, or just want to learn a little bit about 3D printing.
We are not associated or affiliated with MakerFarm at all, just fans!!!
Other subs you should visit:
/r/Reprap
/r/Solidoodle
/r/Printrbot
/r/mtw
/r/Additive
/r/Ultimaker
/r/3DPrinting
/r/DIY
/r/engineering
/r/CAD
/r/REPRAPPIF
/r/makerfarm
I need to reflash my printer to raise the hard coded max temp of 230 but I dont have the original source code/config files. Does anyone have the correct configuration for a Makerfarms Prusa i3 with RAMPs 1.4 and a Magma .4 hotend?
Also - do you know if I should stay with Marlin v1 or if its ok to upgrade to v2 (are there memory space issues etc)
Hey all, I just found a complete makerfarm 6” prusa I3 and was wondering if anyone has documentation for it? I have found scattered pages about it but none that actually show assembly and I would love to try building it. If anyone has any please let me know!
i dont know the name of the axis but it doesnt move unless i hand turn it. the stepping motors go back and forth over and over again and the slip.and one of the wires for the heating bed isint connected. if you know how to fix it pls tell me and it would be great if you make a video because i am a visual learner. i dont even know if this reddit is still active
Don't want to sound like a broken record,, but I really do appreciate the 3d printing community. This little benchy wouldn't be here if not for the help of many other people. I promise I will do my part and lend a hand to the next person who needs some help.
Local pickup only. Worked when last printed. Has upgraded leadscrews and aluminum construction. Message me for details.
Hi! I have an old 8“ Pegasus. Part of the 3D printed extruder assembly cracked recently:
https://i.imgur.com/GkltOkG.jpg
My first question is, does anyone know where I can find a file for the broken part? I can still print ok so I’m guessing the way forward is to try to print a replacement.
Second, and more generally: I know this printer has an “e3d style” hotend... Is it also an “i3 clone”? I’m wondering how hard it would be to find a drop-in replacement/upgrade for the whole extruder/hotend assembly, but I want to be sure it would require minimal fiddling.
Thanks for any help!
Here's the whole printer for reference:
I've had this printer for 6 years (wow I feel old and I'm only 19). It never did print GREAT. But I've been using it for little projects ever since I got an ender 3 about 6 months ago. I was kinda disappointed to see the site down. But it is what it is.
I recently was given a pegasus 10 and it's already assembled, but Iam completely new to 3d printing and 3d printers in general, so I have no idea what Iam looking at. I can post some pictures or send them to someone directly but I would appreciate if someone would be willing to help walk me through how to get the machine up and running.
I'm looking at getting a Pegasus 12. Is it worth it? A teacher I know has one and it's a little big for the classroom, I have a Makerbot Replicator Mini+. We were going to trade, and I would get some filament and a bit of cash out of the deal. In your opinion is this trade worth a good or bad idea...
Looking for some help, I purchased a pegasus 10 and built it back in college and have sinced move and it was collecting dust. I'm trying to get it up and running again and can't find the instruction guide, is there anyone here who could help me out?
I was given a makerfarm pegasus 12 with the upgrade kit and I know they closed the website so I'm not sure how to assemble it
I purchased the Pegasus new almost 6 years ago, built it, and never printed with it. A few years later I took it into work for a colleague to use on a project. So it's had less than a spool of filament and none by myself. I quit my job, brought it home and shelved it.
I am looking at this printer and wondering if it's still worth keeping in 2021. I am aware of printable parts to upgrade the printer, but are there any electronic upgrades aside from the firmware? My model is a non-lcd model, and think that would be a nice addition to start with. Maybe a larger bed? I know a Pegasus 12 was released shortly after mine, and it appears that there is plenty of room for a 12" bed?
Does anyone have any suggestions for an 'ultimate' build guide using this chassis? Something similar? I am looking for suggestions and inspiration.
Right now my thoughts are:
--Z Rod Braces --Z Rod Coupler --LCD Screen --All Metal Hotend --Upgraded Fans --Maybe Bed Size?
Looking at messing with firmware on this thing again, but before i do i'd like to make sure i have a process to get it back to the state it is in now. I maybe relied too much on the makerfarm website whenever I needed to refer to config files or documentation. If anyone out there has the marlin config files/firmware files for their 12" Makerfarm prusa i3v, i would be super interested in getting a copy. I know i can probably get a backup using arduino IDE, but i think that won't be text readable, and I am interested in the actual configuration settings which might help me configure different firmware as well. Thanks.
Anyone know what happened with the website? I was looking to see what they had available to buy and saw it was completely down.
I'm still trying to setup an incomplete/nonworking i3v given to me. I had a MAXTEMP error that went away when I removed the thermistor, but after trying to put it back again, the 20x4 LCD has now gone blank . So I'm trying to figure out if it's the arduino, ramps or lcd that is causing my problem. I am able to connect to the printer with Mac Pronterface, and I can move the extruder around and turn on the heat bed.
I've tried a 2nd set of ribbon cables, and that didn't work. The printer came with lots of extras including a 128x64 LCD, but I don't know how to set that up. I'm not sure if just including u8glib is enough ...
I've seen lots of articles about blown voltage regulators, and I measured continuity across pins as suggested, and I read this "To check if the regulator was indeed bad, I used a continuity tester between pins 1 and 2. Luckily I had another working arduino around to compare to. On a working board, there is no continuity" (https://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-a-fried-Arduino-Mega/), and I have no continuity, so I assume my voltage regulator is fine.
Curious if anyone active here has a Z motor mount file recommendation, don't really want to buy the metal motor mounts.
Most I've come across online have been primarily for wood frames and mount accordingly. Was hoping those who may still be using/ active with these printers would have such recommendations.
I'm also looking for recommendations for cooling ducts that would work with the pegasus extruder as well.
So, after finishing the last batch of ear savers (another kilo done), today was spent working on upgrading the printer. Moved it up to Marlin 1.1.9 (from whatever the old default makerfarm version was) and got it working, and even turned on mesh bed leveling
Anyway, printed a PETG temp tower, and in every one, got a lot of sagging stringing on the bridging tests, and most have some warping on the overhangs, so I'm thinking I probably really need to add a parts cooling fan. Can anyone recommend one? Still using the stock extruder etc
If you’ve looked at my other posts, you’ll see I have a mostly stock I3 (not a V) It is ok, but very subject to alignment issues if I move the printer in the slightest, particularly in the Y axis, which of course throws off the Z height. Any ideas what I should check for tightness, and or replace to stiffen up the y? I’m thinking the easiest fix might be to get a piece of 3/4 hardwood plywood, and make some clips to hold the whole setup down.
I have a 10" i3v that I haven't run in a while. I'm thinking of getting it back in working order, but I remember I always had banding issues along the z axis that had to do with having non-ACME screws. I'm thinking of getting a Pegasus 12" upgrade kit and getting ACME screws for the Z axis to get good quality. Is it worth it to invest that much ($400+screws) into the printer, or should I go with something new? I'm trying to maximize printing quality and reliability, and having that 12" footprint would be nice.
What I'm liking with the 12" is that I would be able to add acrylic walls to better control temperature while printing.
Hey Gang
So, got the old I3 working (gee is it easier to print with PLA than ABS)
So, I'm looking to do some upgrades, in particular, auto bed leveling. I've seen the stuff on Thingiverse, and actually have printed the bracket (and I THINK the servo arm/Switch Holder is around) and I have a switch etc - aka I have everything necessary to do it. (similar to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335632 but I can't find the one I originally printed a year+ ago)
BUT...
Is this the best way today? Are there better ways?
The printer is still on an Ardunio/RAMPS 1.4/Pronterface setup. If changing out the the controls (Mini SKR?, Other?) would help....
I’m going to be resurrecting an old original I3 (the plywood frame, round rod version) which I never got to work to my satisfaction (I think mostly due to having a 3mm Magma head that will only do ABS) I’m swapping out the head (1.75 hexagon) as you don’t need to make any real changes. I had one I broke, but it was working ok So, this has an old RAMPS board, and back when, Colin said “only use sli3r .9” Obviously I’d like to use something a bit newer. Advise?
I've got an 8" pegasus and I want to somehow just manually raise the z axis so I can remove the nozzle. Colin said hook it up to pronterface but to do that I need to pretty much buy a windows laptop and this is the first time in 3 or 4 years that I've ever had a need to raise the z axis. When I built it I thought i was running the z axis up and down manually but I don't remember now how I was doing it, but I do know I have never connected anything to the printer,I always put the gcode on an sd card and then put the sd card into the slot on the printer. I just now thought of just somehow putting a gcode on the sd card that just tells the z to go up 4 inches (or what ever) but I don't know how to do that either. Even if I did buy a laptop then I still need to go through all the process to get it to work with the printer and it seems like alot of time and expense for something I may never use again. I don't print much stuff and have never needed to do any maintenance work to the printer. From day one everything I've printed printed properly and worked as it should. Thanks in advance.
So I've not used my Makerfarm for about 3 years now. My Monoprice Maker Select v2 has been my go to printer. I'd like to get this thing running again but I'm not keen on the Rumba board and would like to get bed leveling implemented. Any Ideas to bring this thing back to life and upgrade it in the process?
I have continued my hacking of my Makerfarm 12 and I wanted to let you all know about my experience installing a Duet Ethernet control board on it.
TLDR: the stepper motors are incredibly quiet now, and the setup was a lot easier that I expected.
I started by breaking my Y-axis endstop. This was not intentional, but I shaved off one of the components of the enstop from the PCB trying to tighten the nut holding it in place. (yes I have different endstop mounts, check my post history for more info)
I decided if my printer ws going to be down while i waited on new endstops, I might as well wire in the BL Touch that I added to my last print head mount that I designed. So I wired it in and started reviewing how to enable it in the firmware. This is when I realized that I would have to update the printer's firmware if I wanted to get the BL touch to work correctly. I had already purchased a Duet Ethernet for my printer a few months back, but have been busy and was honestly a little intimidated by the idea of writing my own firmware for the printer. But I decided that if I was going to have to customize some firmware for a board, I might as well do it for the Duet so that I don't have to do the work twice.
Mounting the Duet was the first hurdle, it is a bit larger than the Arduino controller that came with my printer so only one of the crews would actually go into the board, so it was mounted kinda weird. Normally I would have just printed a new mount, but my printer was down waiting on the endstop, so I made do.
The second hurdle is that the endstops had to be rewired on the controller side. This was relatively easy and the board came with all the connectors you need. Just needed and micro screwdriver and some wire strippers and we were back in business.
Once everything was plugged in it was pretty simple to get the printer up and running. I don't have it completely dialed in yet and I am still working on getting the mesh leveling set up correctly, but it has become a fun project. I was also easily able to change the zero point to the front left corner, when looking at the printer from the front, so i would stop printing things backwards when I forgot to rotate the model in cura. Also the printer work just fine with Cura, despite the warnings from the manufacturer, you just need to set up cura correctly.
If anyone is interested I can upload my configuration once I have the printer dialed in.
Picture of my printhead with the BL Touch installed: https://imgur.com/rkrp6Vh
A Bondtech BMG extruder with short body stepper motor sure looked like a simpler and lighter approach than the Wades extruder on my 8-inch i3v, but I didn't see a carriage plate that would support that. Threw in a mount for a BLTouch as bed sensor while I was at it. A 5015-type blower mounts to the rear of the carriage, with a simple duct passing air to the nozzle area under the carriage, between the two carriage wheels relocated to the bottom side of the carriage plate.
BLTouch has not been installed as of yet. The occasional manual leveling still works OK for me.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453439