Local pickup only. Worked when last printed. Has upgraded leadscrews and aluminum construction. Message me for details.

Hi! I have an old 8“ Pegasus. Part of the 3D printed extruder assembly cracked recently:

https://i.imgur.com/GkltOkG.jpg

My first question is, does anyone know where I can find a file for the broken part? I can still print ok so I’m guessing the way forward is to try to print a replacement.

Second, and more generally: I know this printer has an “e3d style” hotend... Is it also an “i3 clone”? I’m wondering how hard it would be to find a drop-in replacement/upgrade for the whole extruder/hotend assembly, but I want to be sure it would require minimal fiddling.

Thanks for any help!

Here's the whole printer for reference:

https://i.imgur.com/bOUotU8.jpg

I've had this printer for 6 years (wow I feel old and I'm only 19). It never did print GREAT. But I've been using it for little projects ever since I got an ender 3 about 6 months ago. I was kinda disappointed to see the site down. But it is what it is.

I recently was given a pegasus 10 and it's already assembled, but Iam completely new to 3d printing and 3d printers in general, so I have no idea what Iam looking at. I can post some pictures or send them to someone directly but I would appreciate if someone would be willing to help walk me through how to get the machine up and running.

I'm looking at getting a Pegasus 12. Is it worth it? A teacher I know has one and it's a little big for the classroom, I have a Makerbot Replicator Mini+. We were going to trade, and I would get some filament and a bit of cash out of the deal. In your opinion is this trade worth a good or bad idea...

Looking for some help, I purchased a pegasus 10 and built it back in college and have sinced move and it was collecting dust. I'm trying to get it up and running again and can't find the instruction guide, is there anyone here who could help me out?

I was given a makerfarm pegasus 12 with the upgrade kit and I know they closed the website so I'm not sure how to assemble it

I purchased the Pegasus new almost 6 years ago, built it, and never printed with it. A few years later I took it into work for a colleague to use on a project. So it's had less than a spool of filament and none by myself. I quit my job, brought it home and shelved it.

I am looking at this printer and wondering if it's still worth keeping in 2021. I am aware of printable parts to upgrade the printer, but are there any electronic upgrades aside from the firmware? My model is a non-lcd model, and think that would be a nice addition to start with. Maybe a larger bed? I know a Pegasus 12 was released shortly after mine, and it appears that there is plenty of room for a 12" bed?

Does anyone have any suggestions for an 'ultimate' build guide using this chassis? Something similar? I am looking for suggestions and inspiration.

Right now my thoughts are:

--Z Rod Braces --Z Rod Coupler --LCD Screen --All Metal Hotend --Upgraded Fans --Maybe Bed Size?

Looking at messing with firmware on this thing again, but before i do i'd like to make sure i have a process to get it back to the state it is in now. I maybe relied too much on the makerfarm website whenever I needed to refer to config files or documentation. If anyone out there has the marlin config files/firmware files for their 12" Makerfarm prusa i3v, i would be super interested in getting a copy. I know i can probably get a backup using arduino IDE, but i think that won't be text readable, and I am interested in the actual configuration settings which might help me configure different firmware as well. Thanks.

Anyone know what happened with the website? I was looking to see what they had available to buy and saw it was completely down.

I'm still trying to setup an incomplete/nonworking i3v given to me. I had a MAXTEMP error that went away when I removed the thermistor, but after trying to put it back again, the 20x4 LCD has now gone blank . So I'm trying to figure out if it's the arduino, ramps or lcd that is causing my problem. I am able to connect to the printer with Mac Pronterface, and I can move the extruder around and turn on the heat bed.

I've tried a 2nd set of ribbon cables, and that didn't work. The printer came with lots of extras including a 128x64 LCD, but I don't know how to set that up. I'm not sure if just including u8glib is enough ...

I've seen lots of articles about blown voltage regulators, and I measured continuity across pins as suggested, and I read this "To check if the regulator was indeed bad, I used a continuity tester between pins 1 and 2. Luckily I had another working arduino around to compare to. On a working board, there is no continuity" (https://www.instructables.com/id/Fix-a-fried-Arduino-Mega/), and I have no continuity, so I assume my voltage regulator is fine.

Curious if anyone active here has a Z motor mount file recommendation, don't really want to buy the metal motor mounts.

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Most I've come across online have been primarily for wood frames and mount accordingly. Was hoping those who may still be using/ active with these printers would have such recommendations.

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I'm also looking for recommendations for cooling ducts that would work with the pegasus extruder as well.

So, after finishing the last batch of ear savers (another kilo done), today was spent working on upgrading the printer. Moved it up to Marlin 1.1.9 (from whatever the old default makerfarm version was) and got it working, and even turned on mesh bed leveling

Anyway, printed a PETG temp tower, and in every one, got a lot of sagging stringing on the bridging tests, and most have some warping on the overhangs, so I'm thinking I probably really need to add a parts cooling fan. Can anyone recommend one? Still using the stock extruder etc

If you’ve looked at my other posts, you’ll see I have a mostly stock I3 (not a V) It is ok, but very subject to alignment issues if I move the printer in the slightest, particularly in the Y axis, which of course throws off the Z height. Any ideas what I should check for tightness, and or replace to stiffen up the y? I’m thinking the easiest fix might be to get a piece of 3/4 hardwood plywood, and make some clips to hold the whole setup down.

I have a 10" i3v that I haven't run in a while. I'm thinking of getting it back in working order, but I remember I always had banding issues along the z axis that had to do with having non-ACME screws. I'm thinking of getting a Pegasus 12" upgrade kit and getting ACME screws for the Z axis to get good quality. Is it worth it to invest that much ($400+screws) into the printer, or should I go with something new? I'm trying to maximize printing quality and reliability, and having that 12" footprint would be nice.

What I'm liking with the 12" is that I would be able to add acrylic walls to better control temperature while printing.

Hey Gang
So, got the old I3 working (gee is it easier to print with PLA than ABS)

So, I'm looking to do some upgrades, in particular, auto bed leveling. I've seen the stuff on Thingiverse, and actually have printed the bracket (and I THINK the servo arm/Switch Holder is around) and I have a switch etc - aka I have everything necessary to do it. (similar to https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:335632 but I can't find the one I originally printed a year+ ago)

BUT...

Is this the best way today? Are there better ways?

The printer is still on an Ardunio/RAMPS 1.4/Pronterface setup. If changing out the the controls (Mini SKR?, Other?) would help....

I’m going to be resurrecting an old original I3 (the plywood frame, round rod version) which I never got to work to my satisfaction (I think mostly due to having a 3mm Magma head that will only do ABS) I’m swapping out the head (1.75 hexagon) as you don’t need to make any real changes. I had one I broke, but it was working ok So, this has an old RAMPS board, and back when, Colin said “only use sli3r .9” Obviously I’d like to use something a bit newer. Advise?

I've got an 8" pegasus and I want to somehow just manually raise the z axis so I can remove the nozzle. Colin said hook it up to pronterface but to do that I need to pretty much buy a windows laptop and this is the first time in 3 or 4 years that I've ever had a need to raise the z axis. When I built it I thought i was running the z axis up and down manually but I don't remember now how I was doing it, but I do know I have never connected anything to the printer,I always put the gcode on an sd card and then put the sd card into the slot on the printer. I just now thought of just somehow putting a gcode on the sd card that just tells the z to go up 4 inches (or what ever) but I don't know how to do that either. Even if I did buy a laptop then I still need to go through all the process to get it to work with the printer and it seems like alot of time and expense for something I may never use again. I don't print much stuff and have never needed to do any maintenance work to the printer. From day one everything I've printed printed properly and worked as it should. Thanks in advance.

So I've not used my Makerfarm for about 3 years now. My Monoprice Maker Select v2 has been my go to printer. I'd like to get this thing running again but I'm not keen on the Rumba board and would like to get bed leveling implemented. Any Ideas to bring this thing back to life and upgrade it in the process?

I have continued my hacking of my Makerfarm 12 and I wanted to let you all know about my experience installing a Duet Ethernet control board on it.

​

TLDR: the stepper motors are incredibly quiet now, and the setup was a lot easier that I expected.

​

I started by breaking my Y-axis endstop. This was not intentional, but I shaved off one of the components of the enstop from the PCB trying to tighten the nut holding it in place. (yes I have different endstop mounts, check my post history for more info)

​

I decided if my printer ws going to be down while i waited on new endstops, I might as well wire in the BL Touch that I added to my last print head mount that I designed. So I wired it in and started reviewing how to enable it in the firmware. This is when I realized that I would have to update the printer's firmware if I wanted to get the BL touch to work correctly. I had already purchased a Duet Ethernet for my printer a few months back, but have been busy and was honestly a little intimidated by the idea of writing my own firmware for the printer. But I decided that if I was going to have to customize some firmware for a board, I might as well do it for the Duet so that I don't have to do the work twice.

​

Mounting the Duet was the first hurdle, it is a bit larger than the Arduino controller that came with my printer so only one of the crews would actually go into the board, so it was mounted kinda weird. Normally I would have just printed a new mount, but my printer was down waiting on the endstop, so I made do.

​

The second hurdle is that the endstops had to be rewired on the controller side. This was relatively easy and the board came with all the connectors you need. Just needed and micro screwdriver and some wire strippers and we were back in business.

​

Once everything was plugged in it was pretty simple to get the printer up and running. I don't have it completely dialed in yet and I am still working on getting the mesh leveling set up correctly, but it has become a fun project. I was also easily able to change the zero point to the front left corner, when looking at the printer from the front, so i would stop printing things backwards when I forgot to rotate the model in cura. Also the printer work just fine with Cura, despite the warnings from the manufacturer, you just need to set up cura correctly.

​

If anyone is interested I can upload my configuration once I have the printer dialed in.

​

Picture of my printhead with the BL Touch installed: https://imgur.com/rkrp6Vh

A Bondtech BMG extruder with short body stepper motor sure looked like a simpler and lighter approach than the Wades extruder on my 8-inch i3v, but I didn't see a carriage plate that would support that. Threw in a mount for a BLTouch as bed sensor while I was at it. A 5015-type blower mounts to the rear of the carriage, with a simple duct passing air to the nozzle area under the carriage, between the two carriage wheels relocated to the bottom side of the carriage plate.

BLTouch has not been installed as of yet. The occasional manual leveling still works OK for me.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3453439

​

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https://preview.redd.it/v34gz0esybj21.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=de1349717abd7661f679fcd16df7e6eeb0c13efa

I'm trying to create a new hotend mount, and I don't have the dimensions of the 2 holes that are used for holding the extruder. Does anyone have the file or dimensions of this part?

Thanks!

Hi all,

I am very new to 3D printing, so I apologize if my questions are a bit vague, or I'm not giving the right information. I'm sure you will put me right.

So a couple of weeks ago I bought a secondhand Makerfarm as per the title, I think it has been upgraded with a Rambo motherboard V1.1b or where they supplied with that board at one time? Anyway I am getting very inconstant printing results. Up to now I have just been using the SD card, but it seams like I can adjust the nozzle height one day and when I switch it on the next day it is at a different height when I home the axis . Tonight I plugged it into Pronterface and this is what it came back with

​

Connecting...

start

Printer is now online.

echo: External Reset

Marlin 1.0.0

echo: Last Updated: RAMBo_1-1b_GLCD_v1 MakerFarm i3v12Mar  5 2015 15:09:23 | Author:

Compiled: Mar  5 2015

echo: Free Memory: 3405  PlannerBufferBytes: 1232

echo:Stored settings retrieved

echo:SD card ok

​

I tried to send an M503 command expecting to see some predefined settings but it just sat there saying

Sending: M503

​

I then sent M115 and got this

SENDING:M115

FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:https://www.makerfarm.com PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:MakerFarm i3v EXTRUDER_COUNT:1

​

Are these setting what you would expect? or do you think there is something wrong?

​

Thanks

Novaturbo

​

I am currently switching from a Pegasus 10" which has been nothing but hassle to a Prusa MK3, but as part of this, I am getting rid of Klipper, which I spent a lot of time configuring to get "just right" and feel that some of that configuration work could help someone else. I have a baseline of a configuration file which can be used on a Pegasus, though it is for a modified one:

• bed probe in Zmin endstop spot
• trinamic drivers (so your axes will be reversed, if you're using other drivers just invert the direction signal)
• controllable PSU
• acme rods
• full graphical LCD
• x and y endstops are on the max pins because the endstops are actually on the axis maximums, but Colin has both X and Y mirrored in stock firmware such that max is min (inconsequential to actual operation, but aesthetically frustrating to me). TL;DR origin is moved to front left instead of back right

The klipper.cfg is as follows:

[mcu]
serial: /dev/ttyACM0
pin_map: arduino

[printer]
kinematics: cartesian
max_velocity: 300
max_accel: 800
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100

[probe]
pin: ^ar18
x_offset: -10
y_offset: -30
z_offset: -0.4

[bed_mesh]
min_point: 15, 35
max_point: 230, 230
probe_count: 5, 5
samples: 2

[output_pin psu]
pin: !ar12
pwm: False
value: 0

# "RepRapDiscount 128x64 Full Graphic Smart Controller" type displays
[display]
lcd_type: st7920
cs_pin: ar16
sclk_pin: ar23
sid_pin: ar17
encoder_pins: ^ar31, ^ar33
click_pin: ^!ar35
kill_pin: ^!ar41

[stepper_x]
step_pin: ar54
dir_pin: ar55
enable_pin: !ar38
step_distance: .0125
#endstop_pin: ^!ar3  # min-endstop
endstop_pin: ^!ar2
position_endstop: 240
position_max: 240
homing_speed: 50

[stepper_y]
step_pin: ar60
dir_pin: ar61
enable_pin: !ar56
step_distance: .0125
#endstop_pin: ^!ar14  # min
endstop_pin: ^!ar15
position_endstop: 240
position_max: 240
homing_speed: 50

[stepper_z]
step_pin: ar46
dir_pin: ar48
enable_pin: !ar62
step_distance: .00125
position_max: 250
position_min: -4
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop

[homing_override]
gcode:
    G91
    G0 Z10
    G90
    G28 X Y
    G0 X120 Y120 F4000
    G28 Z
set_position_z: 0
axes: xyz

[extruder]
step_pin: ar26
dir_pin: !ar28
enable_pin: !ar24
step_distance: .00239
nozzle_diameter: 0.600
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: ar10
sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104GT-2
sensor_pin: analog13
control: pid
pid_Kp: 21.16
pid_Ki: 1.5
pid_Kd: 74.55
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 290

[heater_bed]
heater_pin: ar8
sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
sensor_pin: analog14
control: watermark
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 130

[fan]
pin: ar9

[menu __main __offsetz]
type: input
name: "Offset Z:{0:05.3f} "
parameter: gcode.homing_zpos
input_min: -5
input_max: 5
input_step: 0.005
realtime: true
gcode: SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z={0:.3f}

https://imgur.com/a/LaVbKBU

So I finally got my printer to print dual extrusion. I think there is still a slight misalignment between the two nozzles, and my filament is stringy, I think it might have absorbed some water. But it is working, thoughts?

I am working getting marlin 1.9 set up on a Pegasus 12. When I do a G28 Z, the z motors just seem to buzz.

If I tap the Z micro switch the motors turn and I get a homing failed on the display

The only changes I have made to configuration.h are

#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 5 //cpk was 1

#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1 //cpk was 0

//#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 4000, 500 }

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80.19,80.19,4000,90} // cpk

#define INVERT_X_DIR true //cpk

#define INVERT_Y_DIR false // cpk

#define X_BED_SIZE 300 // cpk

#define Y_BED_SIZE 300 // cpk

#define EEPROM_SETTINGS // Enable for M500 and M501 commands /CPK

#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLER //CPK

Positioning with the Graphical interface in pronterface and the G1 Zn, G0 Zn don't seem to cause the same reaction. G28 for X and Y works

Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING does not seem to have an effect, left at FALSE

What have I missed?