Hey,

I've been gifted an unboxed Printrbot Original. Does anyone have a resource for documentation? Everything I click on leads to a dead link.

Thanks

I have a old simple pro i am trying to get back up. I need the profile for cura and i cannot find it. Can you get a cura profile from a print file you have on octopie that has already been sliced?

Hello Printrbot community! Glad you’re still around.

I assembled a Printrbot Simple Metal farm in 2016, possibly the largest one (40 at peak) outside of PBot headquarters.

I’m now converting them into art robots. More about this soon! Basically they’ll be mounted on wheels and will “dance,” driven by g-code motion. They’ll still print but not necessarily normally or well.

I’m looking for some key parts, in order to maintain this installation. Consistency between the printers is key. (Not trying to upgrade them!) I’m also interested in entire Simple Metals that contain these parts. Of specific interest right now:

-Rev F6 boards (no other boards) -Ubis 13S hot ends (not ceramic) -original power supplies for the non-heated bed.

I can pay. I can also trade. Have many F5 boards, and many parts I don’t need. Also interested in donations! I’ll send you some art!

This is a long shot but I gotta try. I randomly acquired most of the pieces to a simple metal plus some parts foe upgrades. The one thing I can't find is the Z nut. I don't have a 3D printer to make an adapter so I came here as a last resort. Any help greatly welcomed.

If you didn't see my previous post it explains in detail, but in short my printrbot is out of commission. I was wondering what the best mods are for the Simple Metal? I was thinking of upgrading to an SKR board, but which one, and putting on an LCD screen, but which one, and maybe some new stepper motors. I just want to know what the best parts would be and how easy it would be to upgrade to them, thanks!

Need a few of them for a project. Will consider buying up old printrbots if they have this board. (I know there are better options but just humor me.)

Rev. F6 only, ideally microusb.

I have an original Printrbot Simple Metal(no mods) i got for free heavily used from a maker space that closed down near me. I have printing experience(with newer printers such as bambus and prusas) but not truly enough to know anything about this machine. I got it to start benchmark print and it finished. That was the first day I had it. I come back day 2, put in the SD card with a benchy loaded with auto0.g, and nothing happens. I try taking out the card, cleaning it off, computer still reads it. I then notice the USB port is breaking free from is solder. So I try to get it back on without breaking anything. Try printing again and nothing happens, any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

More than a few years ago, my Printrbot became a decoration and the power supply got repurposed. Now I need to resurrect it but I can't remember what the power supply rating was and the internet seems to have a short memory in this area. I'm sure modern PSUs are probably more than capable but just wanted to be sure before plugging in. I'm thinking it was 400W?

I went to set my z offset an it saying that it has to have a minimum of 0.00 offset. And I can’t move it because it throws a error

Going to upgrade my almost 10 year old printer.
Already using a Creality K1 (upgraded version) but want to use my old printer again

Let me know if i'm missing something.
It's not about the costs, it's about giving in

Ordered parts:

Base Electronicx:

• SKR 2.0 Mainboard - BIGTREETECH SKR 2 - 3D Printer Moederbord - BTT-SKR-2 (tinytronics.nl)
• Wifi module: BTT ESP-07S Module for SKR Octopus Control Board – Biqu Equipment
• 2209 Drivers - BIGTREETECH TMC2209 V1.3 Stepper Motor Driver – Biqu Equipment
• External Mosfet for heated bed - 3D Printer Verwarmde Bed Power Module /Hotbed MOSFET Uitbreidingsmodule Inc 2pin Lood met Kabel voor Anet A8 A6 A2 Hellingen 1.4 - AliExpress 7
• Noctua base fan - noctua 40mm – Koop noctua 40mm met gratis verzending op AliExpress version
• Screen: BTT TFT35-E3 V3.0.1 Display Touch Screen Two Working Modes – Biqu Equipment
• Can USB: BIGTREETECH EBB 36/42 Can Bus U2C V2.1 for Connecting Klipper Expansio – Biqu Equipment

Movement:

• GATES Belts - BIQU GATES-LL-2GT GT2-6mm High Quality Open Timing Belt Width 6mm 10mm – Biqu Equipment
• Default steppers

Buildplate

• PEI Magnetic build plate 257*257 - Bouw Plaat Pei Blad 180/220/235/310/350Mm Upgrade Verwijdering Getextureerde Pei Magnetische Bouw Plaat Ender 3 V3 Se Bed Veerstaal - AliExpress
• Silicon heated bed 24V- 12V 24V 110V 220V Siliconen Rubber Elektrische Verwarming Pads Kachel Plaat Bakmat Lijm Ntc 100K Thermistor Temperatuursensor - AliExpress 15

Update Buildplate - 26-07-2024

• New stepper motor (heavier), just yes: Stappenmotor - 0.9° - 0.54N.m - 1.68A - NEMA17 - JST-PH Compatible Connector - JK42HM60-1684A-03F (tinytronics.nl)

Printhead:

• 2x BTT Smart filament Sensor v2 - Bigtreetech Slimme Filament Sensor Breken Detectie Module Btt Sfs V2.0 Monitor 3d Printer Onderdelen Voor Skr V1.4 Turbo Skr 2 Mini E3 - AliExpress 7
• 2x Trianglelab Ddb Extruder right: Zonestar Dual Gear Extruder Dual Drive Extruder Upgrade Bowden Extruder 1.75Mm Filament 3D Printer Onderdelen - AliExpress 7
• Trianglelab Ddb Extruder left shell :C Trianglelab Ddb Extruder Links V1.0 Shell Legt-Hand Versie Upgrade Shell Alleen Voor Trianglelab Dforce Ddb Left-Hand Versie - AliExpress 7
• 2x EBB42: BIGTREETECH EBB 36/42 Can Bus U2C V2.1 for Connecting Klipper Expansio – Biqu Equipment
• Eddy coil: BIGTREETECH Eddy – Biqu Equipment
• Heatbreaker: 2 Stuks Upgrade E3d V6 Heatbreak Bi-Metaal Titanium Legering & Vergulde Koper Bi Metalen Keel Voor E3d V6 Vulkaan Hotend Prusa I3 Mk3 - AliExpress 7
• Hotend: 24V Vulkaan Printkop Extruder Kit Wade Of Bowden J-Head Hotend Met Koelventilator Voor 1.75/3.0mm Filament 3D Printer - AliExpress 7

Update Printhead - 26-07-2024

• New stepper motors (2) for the extruders to place the EBB42 on: Stappenmotor - 23mm dik - 0.13N.m - 1.0A - NEMA17 - JST-PH Compatible Connector - NEMA17-JSTPH013NM (tinytronics.nl)

Extra:

• 24 volts 350A powersupply: Origineel Goed RS-15/25 LRS-35/50/100/150/200/350/450/600 Serie Meanwell 3.3V 5V 12V 15V 24V 36V 48V Schakelende Voeding - AliExpress 13
• RPI USB power: 12V 24V Tot 5V 3a DC-DC Step Down Voltage Voeding Output Adapter Auto Power Converter Micro Mini Usb Met Omgekeerde Bescherming - AliExpress 13

Printed parts:

• Motherboard + mosfet holder: Printrboard to SKR 1.3 & 1.4 mount by Rushmere3D | Download free STL model | Printables.com
• Motherboard stepper drivers cooling: Bigtreetech SKR 1.3/1.4 mounting bracket for Sovol 3D SV01 UPDATE: v2 by Z3T1 - Thingiverse
• Wide footptint: Printrbot Metal Plus Foot + PSU by Rushmere3D | Download free STL model | Printables.com

To-Do

• Reroute heated bed wire
• 5015 Blower fan(s) with custom duct to output on both heaters
• Upgrade bed stepper motor?

OS:

• going to run Klipper

https://preview.redd.it/6ppfe0agzqcd1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30d594f80cb90f568ae75054b2075037f31e3651

I've had my printrbot simple metal since 2015, and over the years modded things on it, so continuing that tradition and because I love my printrbot & was chasing a quality issue, here's this years mods in progress. Stretched & braced Z. 3 extruders (two bowden), filament sensors, Pei magnetic plate for the heated bed, and some general stiffening up of things. I will investigate running the extrudrboard off the xbox360 psu that runs the heated bed already because everything is stock board wise apart from that.
Waiting for materials (alloy stock, fans, wiring) to arrive to finish the outstanding stuff now :(

Modded printrbot simple metal

Is it worth the effort? probably not. I just like tinkering with it.

My simple metal has developed a displacement issue which showed up in a print I last made a few years back and had saved as gcode in octoprint, so I looked about and the Y axis screws are stripped and the rods/linear bearings are shot (the 2015 originals, kept happy until now with sewing machine oil). The belts kept the shape of the parked path round the pulley when they came off, so renewing also.

While its getting new parts, time to change a few things and stretch the Z to 400mm, new leadscrew, filament sensor connected to the BBB with octoprint, new Y axis rods & bearings and tap out the stripped m4 to m5, turn a plain section on the end of the leadscrew and run a bearing or oillite bushing in the alloy top part instead of a 3dp stiffener and remake the front roller section in alloy incorporating a mount for the filament sensor.

Yep its years out of date, all my friends say modern printers are so much better than it in terms of print quality and useability, but its testiment to the openness of the original that its still so moddable. And after 8 yearsof modding and tweaking it, I'm kind of attached to it still.
Posting a in progress pic as a intro, and to embarass myself into actually finishing the mods in a timely fashion. We'll ignore that extrudr board and bowden steppers in the pic for now.

apart for mods

Pulled of a printrbot metal plus, worked great just wanted to upgrade. If anyone needs one throw me an offer.

I have a refF printrboard that I'd like to flash the firmware on. I'm using a mac. Has anyone done this with DFU-Programmer or some other program?

I just bought this printer from a flea market and it didn't come with any instructions on how to use it, can anyone help me? Google is only showing me results for the metal version

The auto level has really been acting up lately. It will trigger sometimes about a centimeter above the build plate, or sometimes just keep rising several inches above. After calibration (https://youtu.be/jpmgI4OGldw?si=lDDwX14PHHJpCFZy), I can get a successful print and try to start the next one and it will gouge the build plate. I've been trying to fix this for weeks and I've really hit a wall. Should I replace the sensor? Where would I even find a good replacement? Are there things I could try to fix this trigger issue?

After years of reliable use, my Printrbot Simple Metal stopped connecting to my computer. I know the USB port is good as I can move other devices to that port and they work successfully. I am guessing that it might be the USB connection at the printrbot that is bad. How difficult of a job would that be to repair. I will have to check if there are used circuit boards available.

Delete if not allowed but I'm not sure where else to ask. Almost a decade ago now I sold my Printrbot Simple 1405 (back when it was still made of wood and driven by fishing line). It was my first printer and I've been feeling a bit nostalgic lately after looking back at old pictures and realizing how far we've come at the $300-$500 pricepoint.

I emailed the person I sold mine to but it sounds like they sold it to someone else several years ago. Does anyone have a more or less unmodified wood model Simple they'd be willing to part with? I'd like to have one to put on a shelf as a reminder of where it all started for me.

The early 2010s were really something, weren't they? I remember attending Maker Faires and seeing all the home-built printers and laser cutters that were only just beginning to become available to the average person. Things are certainly still advancing rapidly today, but it was very cool to be there when the hobby first sort of started. There was just such an electric atmosphere; you could just feel that something big was happening.

Long story short, I was given this printer because the USB jack had got ripped out and the company didn't want to use the Micro SD card to run the printer, I've had the printer for a few years and it prints really well, today I went to run a print and the heated bed and hotend didn't start to warm up, It's happened a few times were I've renamed the file incorrectly, so i took the card back out deleted the current file and saved the file back to the SD card and renamed it auto0.g and still nothing, I tried multiple times and nothing happened. The power supply is on and the LED on the board is green, the height sensors red LED turns on when metal is put close, so it's getting power. From looking online I should probably try to flash the board (it has the REV F5 board) but since I can't hook it up to the computer because of the broken USB, Is my only option to get a new board? Here lies the problem, I know nothing about circuitry, programing, coding, open source etc. NOTHING!!!!!! Can someone send me a link to a board that I could just "Plug and Play?" or link instructions that a 3 year old could understand? Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!!! Thanks

I swear, the metal plus was not actually designed to properly route the wires for the heated bed. Using the routing that the original instructions indicate, the wires constantly get caught in the y-axis belt.

I have ended up drilling a hole in the back of the bed platform to route the wires out the back of the bed and back in through the hole that the power cables enter through.

Has anybody else had this issue?

Does anyone have or know where I can find a copy of the Smalls.gettingstarted.ini file. I am trying to setup my printrbot smalls in Cura but the only presets available are the simple and play.

Thanks

So I decided to try to revive my old bot and realized between the spare and the OG I still need parts. Anybody have leads on sites still offer parts for the old simple metals? I'm talking metal hot ends, power interfaces for these old boards, motors, any thing else.

I recently received this printer from a friend so i could start learning about printing. I set it up and ran a handful of prints and the first layer was never correct. One side of the bed would be perfect but the other side would be to close, but it still would print okay. After a while of printing this way I decided to upgrade the firmware. I went to Merlin 1.1.9 thinking it might help.

After the 1.1.9 upgrade after I run the G29 command it probes 9 times then goes to the corner and makes a weird sound like the stepper motors are trying to move something beyond its bounds. then it prints, the first layer is still off.

I've seen some things on here that reference a google doc for some settings to change that should fix this but the doc has been deleted. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get this sorted?

I unfortunately have to sell this printrbot simple pro

Was in the process of restoring it but have to use a different printer for work

I will most likely rebuild a wooden kit i have at some point for fun

Here’s the eBay ad for it

https://www.ebay.com/itm/126147113952?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LY0zMk2XR3q&sssrc=2051273&ssuid=LY0zMk2XR3q&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

The original electronics worked except for z axis

It was running with printr board rev f4

I would like to see it go to someone that wants to rebuild it

I have a kracken hotend I can also add to it

Hi, I'm fixing up a broken printrbot simple metal in my school's makerspace, I swapped out the board and it's now booting, but I need the USB drivers and I can't find them anywhere.

Does anyone know where I can find said usb drivers?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!