https://reddit.com/link/1he2rr5/video/nszgapgzet6e1/player

I designed a Creeper head that glows! It uses a tea light. Check the model out!

any ideas on what happened here? it was all fine and i went away for 20m to find this. i assume it may have lost its adhesion to the plate but i’ve never had this problem before so wondering if it’s something else?

I just heard about PLA High Resilience (HR). It seems like it would have tons of really neat applications besides just airless bballs. Like i was thinking rc car parts, for example.

Im curious what other things people have used it for.

I'm thinking of asking for a fillament dryer for Christmas since my recent prints have seen some stringing action going on. For reference, I live in an equatorial country and it's currently monsoon season, so humidity is at an all time high.

However, I only recently found out that my new roll of fillament was Silk PLA so that might have been the issue (I haven't dealt with much stringing prior)

After some research, it seems that people mostly use filament driers for PETG anyways, so should I invest in one in the first place? If so, what budget models would y'all recommend? Thanks

Picked up at microcenter, got everything unboxed. Realized the plate is missing. Checked everywhere in the packaging. Nada. Calling Microcenter when they open to see if they will supply one or if I have to buy one

Is there any build plate that doesnt require glue when printing abs if not which is the best overall

Hi community! I have a retail product that I’m making a new version for. I’d like to work with a 3D printer who can help me with iterations before I send STEP file to manufacturer. Anyone here with experience printing TPR models? The size is 5x7 inches.

I want to get into 3D Printing and Buy a P1S. I want to put the printer on shelf from Ikea Ivar. Has someone experience with this shelf or any other ideas. It should be same width and length as the printer i dont have to much space for the shelf.

Can anyone here speak to the quality of Factory Filament? I'm interested in supporting a local company (Buffalo, NY), but also don't want to buy something that's gonna cause problems. Currently running a Ender 3 and P1P.

Has anyone bought from here? theyre supposedly selling a palette 3 PRO for $285 aud ($181usd). They usually go for over $1000

https://preview.redd.it/abeb5fzb8t6e1.png?width=1915&format=png&auto=webp&s=5b41abceebbf6b946cb08f25903ef1f1de0748d7

Hello, I'm wanting to print some grips for a steering wheel that I have an stl for.

Basically I want to print the insides as pla for structuring and hot melt inserts so I can screw it in.

But for the outside I'm printing in sainsmart's red tpu. (I like the color)

Is there a way in bambu studio to have it print just the parts the slicer determined should be pla, then a separate print for the parts it determined should be tpu?

I'm fine epoxying them together after. But I'd rather not change filaments every single layer since i done have an ams lite

I would think the tpu is gonna need supports though since it is acting like a wrap around the pla.

Or should I just print in just tpu and epoxy in the brass inserts

I sanded with 240 and then 400 grit sandpaper. Then I sprayed with primer and tried painting with orange acrylic paint.

This is how it looks after 2 coats of paint. What am I doing wrong!?

https://preview.redd.it/rzpnijihqs6e1.jpg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d3a5c43f1b5ab4eb8395f4d31cd41efe7fc7ab73

Just discovererd "TheKitKiln" in Thangs, and he has some awesome prints for anyone that doesn't have an AMS.

Just made this on my very old but upgraded Anet A8

Pretty shit printer, but managed to make this.

No glue or AMS needed, all the parts are clicking in place.

Didn't finish everything as my printer did die again, but go this little guy (Printed 50% size).

Check it out.

https://thangs.com/designer/The%20Kit%20Kiln

https://preview.redd.it/76rohhymqs6e1.jpg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c67d6e3e70791391253fdcdf9420b75a749663be

So apologies if this is a frequently asked question, but there's a surprisingly low amount of answers for this hence why I'm asking.

I'm looking to print a Helldiver cosplay and want it to be more durable and heat resistant than PLA or any of the CosPLA/PLA+ type filaments seem to be able to give (only like 5-10 Celsius higher than regular PLA, if that) but I genuinely have no clue what PETG to buy that would be best for this. I want it to be "easy enough" to sand because I'll obviously need to post-process and paint it all, which will require smoothing all of the layer lines, but I also don't want it to be too weak or brittle either. I'm sometimes kinda clumsy and don't want an entire piece of the costume to break if I bump into something or trip over.

I specify the Bambu A1 as I know some filaments play nicely with some printers but not as much with others. I've ordered some of Bambu's PETG but they are currently dealing with a lot of shipping delays due to a mix of the Christmas season and also the Canada Post strike, so while it may be resolved sooner or later I also don't want to be waiting like a month for filament if this issue persists.

So far the ones I've looked at are: Elegoo, Sunlu, Overture and Polymaker, however PolyLite is supposedly weaker than standard PETG and PolyMax is quite pricy with very little information regarding the PolyMax PETG, so I have no clue if it's worth the price.

As always, TIA for any help!

I would like to change my overall hotend setup of my sovol and now I was wondering which hotend I should use.

I would like to use the Orbiter V2.0 as extruder, but the question arises whether it would be better to buy a complete extruder set (Orbiter 60€ to Sprite 90€).

I've noticed that everything with the word high flow costs around €100, whereas hotends for an Sv08 or Bambulab printer, for example, only cost a fraction of that.

In my simple way of thinking, however, this wouldn't make any difference as I would redesign the mounts either way.

Maybe someone here has already done something like this and has some experience why it makes sense to use replica hotends for high flow instead of the original hotends of other printers.

Here are a few links to hotends that would interest me.

SV08 Hotend 30€ https://amzn.eu/d/ed43JPV

K1 40€ https://amzn.eu/d/0Dag10v

X1 18€ if what is written here is true that would be incredible https://amzn.eu/d/dRVVPuQ

Microswiss NG €100 purely visually really very cool executed whether it justifies the price would just be a complete setup https://amzn.eu/d/ivQxMMz

Phaetus Libelle Hot-End BMO 50€ I have installed ist in my Delta. Good hotend but over 20mm^3/s difficult to keep stable

https://amzn.eu/d/4ND3YuH

On small prints the model stick to the bed like hell and it is hard as hell to remove it. Midway on a 21 hour print the model doesn't stick anymore, it wraps up on the edges. What can I do? I applied glue stick to the glass bed before starting the print and it doesn't help.

Please help.