Hi, I’m using a wham ban textured PEI plate with Bambu matte PLA. I’m getting over adhesion issues where the prints don’t release when the plate is cool. Then when removing is creating small white dots on the bottom of the print. Anyone have any suggestions on nozzle, bed and fan settings to stop this?

I spun the 3D printing problem roulette and landed on a completely new issue. Last week, I installed a new hotend kit to fix heat creep and clogging problems. I calibrated the e-steps, manually leveled the bed, and even ran mesh leveling. Now, I'm facing a new problem: the inner corner walls are peeling in a strange way. Any suggestions on what is causing this and how to resolve this?

P.S. Ignore the stringing and surface hairs—I still need to dial in the retraction settings.

Printer: Ender 3 Pro
Filament: Numaker Pla+

Settings: Layer Height: 0.2mm, Temp: 212 & 60, Speed: 60mm/s, Retraction distance: 5mm

https://preview.redd.it/ncggqoj71rod1.jpg?width=900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=117c45e1999622cc3c39b281f26dca13da5479e4

https://preview.redd.it/d1jropj71rod1.jpg?width=900&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f97852092e84e322c32b41897bcf9201ace75519

Hi. Made this app to calculate more or less cost of a print to be able to charge my ex wife :) No more freebies. I know it is not perfect but it is maybe enough.

https://cost-slicer.vercel.app/

Does acrylic paint stick to silk filament or do I have to use primer

I know this question's answer is relative depending on how much you use it, but how long does ola filament last on average. 1kg roll (2.2 IBS)

Dear 3D printing community, I have recently upgraded my printer (Ender 3v2) with CR touch and silicone spacers (it had original springs) After leveling the bed, I started getting issues on left side only. Right side is printing perfectly but left side is always far away from printing surface (I have added G29 to the code so it levels the bed before each print) I thought it might be the problem with silicone spacers so went back to springs again, now I have same problem in both springs and silicone 😂 What should I do to fix this issue? Steps I have tried; Level the bed manually (cold) X5 Level the bed manually (hot) x7 Set the z-offset at auto home x6 Try to go back original springs Nothing has worked

Anyone Know a pateron creator that create none articulated animals and has a good colletions of stls?

Just ordered a spool of Eryone PA6 off of Amazon for roughly 20€/kg. Does anyone have experience with this stuff and can tell me if this is a hoax?

https://preview.redd.it/shrelei8kqod1.jpg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2a0fc098b380f2d621ec0f489072955becf98a0f

As the title says.Not little string.I mean like branches

Hey I have a problem my resin tank was damaged and some of it came on the display and I didn't notice I did 2 prints with it and all prints failed and I wonderd why and last night I checked the tank and it had a tiny hole

How can I clean this up or should I buy a new display?

I have Elegoo mars 3

Stringing no matter what retraction.On temperature tower ia fine

Volcano vs my cursed spare parts frankenstein :)

In the same test the volcano got 20mm^2/s and my monstrosity 30mm^2/s

BOM: 2x volcano nozzle (one for extender one as nozzle) 2x v6 heater 2x m6 nut

Hope it brings a smile to some of you :)

I may be the minority wanting this, but this could help a lot of people save print time and material. Gradual infill from cura, makes infill denser at top layers. It’s great, but has its flaws. Prusa slicer has adaptive cubic, and it’s also great, but also has its flaws. I’ll outline the pros and cons of each, and how we could have a much better option, if someone with the knowledge wants a cool project. (With the addition of openAI o1 model and it being so good, it should be very doable for 1 person to implement with some programming knowledge, just trying to convince someone to want to do it lol).

Cura gradual infill pros:

-You can use very low infill percentage for most of the model, while still having excellent top surface support, specially important on slight internal slopes, like 10deg where you would get gaps on the top layer with 4-8% infill. -it’s configurable. You can set the number of steps to reduce infill by half. And the thickness of each step. Like, 2 steps with 20% infill, causes top infill to be 20%, then 10%, then the rest of the print 5%.

Cura gradual infill cons:

-it prints lines with no anchor at times, not an issue if you make the steps thick enough as it will eventually anchor, but could also be prevented by expanding the denser infill on the xy slightly so it always anchors to the bottom sparse infill. Could also be reduced by making the steps cut infill by less than 2, so the steps are closer in infill% and you could do thinner steps, just more of them. -it thickens infill for flat top surfaces too, adding unnecessary plastic. This is not usually needed as bridging usually takes place and it can bridge over sparse infill.

Prusaslicer Adaptive Cubic pros:

• it prints thicker infill near walls and top surfaces, allowing you to save on print time and material. Gradual infill from cura only thickens on top surfaces.
• it doesn’t have the problem where it prints in mid air like gradual infill at times, as all lines are connected in a smart way.

Prusaslicer Adaptive Cubic cons:

• not configurable. You can’t choose a certain top surface infill % independent of the rest of the infill in the model. For example, if I need 25% infill to get good quality on a 10deg slope, I’m stuck with the automatic infill % for the rest of the model and extra infill in walls, wasting a lot of plastic unnecessarily when I just needed top layer support and a lower part infill for the rest. It would be nice to have options to reduce infill near walls, or to more significantly lower infill away from walls/top surfaces, without sacrificing the top surface support.

-it also thickens infill for flat top surfaces, when bridging already takes care of the problem for those surfaces.

Support cubic is great, but it also supports flat top surfaces that bridge, and it doesn’t support the walls evenly.

I propose a better solution to both. As simple as implementing cura’s gradual infill and improving some of its flaws (if someone implements it, I can work on making it better to reduce the printing in mid air problem and not densifying on flat surfaces, etc), or as complex as making adaptive cubic configurable (this is a brain breaker, it’s complex).

What would you get out of this? A highly configurable adaptive infill that allows you to have excellent quality, while saving on a lot of print time and material, without compromising strength like support cubic or lightning infill.

I’m not good enough to import the gradual infill into prusa slicer, but I’m decent enough to be able to improve it if someone imports it. There’s so many things about prusa slicer and files that I don’t know how they interact with each other. But got the logic for gradual infill in one place? Then we are in business.

Not sure if there is a better place for this, but there are a lot of people here than might want a project and to improve infill. If you want to take the project and work on it, let me know and I can tell you the things I’ve figured out, like the location for the gradual infill in cura source code, etc. Then we can cooperate to make this happen.

If someone doesn’t want to take the project, I will likely pay someone to do it if my business does well in the next 6 months. A next step for this “ideal” infill will be a structure near the walls, like studs in a wall, with then a line (drywall) that anchors to a more sparse infill, for very strong walls. Similar to adaptive infill near walls.

Printed 3 different models all have this same problem and it’s always the side facing the back of the printer, I’ve levelled the bed, watching it print seems like the nozzle is catching the print on that side?

Is this a set up problem with the printer or more a problem with Cura.

This is the first time I’ve tried using Vase mode.

I recently purchased a couple rolls of ABS to print some tool inserts for milwaukee packout, I chose ABS as I've read it has good qualities in resisting heat like sitting in a hot car etc. Ive been having troubles with bed adhesion and the first couple layers starting to peel up after a couple minutes. The printer is a bambu P1S. I've tried the following to try and prevent it:

• Glue and hairspray for better adhesion

• Preheating bed and activating the aux fan for 25 minutes to try and warm up the enclosure

I'm running the PEI textured plate at 100c and my hotend at 260 which is what the box that i got the filament in suggested. Should i be going hotter? As you can probably tell i'm a novice when it comes to 3d printing and am struggling to overcome this. ill attach some images of the peeling.

Wife bought a squirrel cancel cuz it was on sale for $3... Lit it for a bit and lo and behold it had an empty brain cavity... The rest is history

I was a creality hyper filament user. And I'm going to change it to '3DHoJor Matte PLA 3D Printer Filament' this time. Since the maximum speed was 100mm/s, I changed the setting I used to use 300mm/s to 100m/s, how do I change the acceleration? Even if I look at other articles, I can't understand directly.

As a teenager i want to make money by 3d printing models from my school's printer and sell them. I'm looking into creating 1 meter tall dragon or maybe 2 meter tall "DRAGON SLAYER" sword that i saw or any other thing that is big and crazy. Thanks to my school they gave me permisson to use any printer and fix if it's broken. The thing is i dont know how much should i sell for? I make 15 parts for sniper(1:2) then painted like Asimov from csgo but nobody bought it for 58 dollar. I was thinking maybe i should sell them for low prices? But the filament im using is much more expensive than my selling price. No profit at all. So can you guys please give me advice about how much should i sell for them or how much you guys would buy them.

IN SHORT: For how much should i sell my 3d printed figures.

Does anyone know if I can pass on a Prusament voucher to someone because I can't use it? And also, write if anyone needs free PLA. I'm Russian so I'm not allowed to get this.

I was bed levling and i heard a loud noise, instantly turned off the printer and looked under the nozzle and found out that it was clogged, how do I remove the plastic safely?

I need to fit some power cables, Apple TV, router, small fan, etc in a small cubby behind a TV in my RV. I’m considering a pegboard, but seeing some cool platforms on MakerWorld for the honeycombs. The main issue is getting it customized to fit against the about 6x11” walls in there. Just starting out with my Bambu X1C, so lots to learn.