hi, im new to 3d printing, a few wekks before i got an ender 3 v3 ke and recently iv got a few 0,2 mm nozzle, the thing is that the nozzles i ordered where much smaller than the one i got in the printer, did i get the ones that arent for my printer or are they just different? thx

Does anybody know of a supplier in Canada for XYZPrinting parts?

The official supplier in the US does not ship to Canada, and I do not want to go through the expense and hassle of using a shipping broker.

I hopelessly clogged the extruder of my Mini W+, and after unsuccessfully trying all the methods suggested to me for unclogging it I have come to the conclusion that I need to buy a replacement.

Sadly, the only place I’ve found a replacement t available was on eBay and the price was more than double what I paid for the printer.

Hi,

I ordered some statues from a seller on Etsy and they arrived a couple of days ago. All of the models were tacky and some had wet patches, we've since had a base cave in. One of the models fell off of the table and broke so I had a look inside and the supports I can see inside are bendy and wet? I've asked the seller and they said this was normal, they also offered to rewash the models for us if we send them back.

Is this normal? And if not is it worth us sending them back for a rewash?

Hey, folks. Apologies if this isn't the right place for this, but the only restrictions I could see on asking advice seemed to be on purchasing a new printer.

TL;DR I'm getting little pockmarks, thin layers, and other irregularities that are leading to failed prints. May have to do with silk PLA. Need to know how to fix it.

I've been trying to print the Master Sword from the Legend of Zelda games, but I'm having no end of trouble with the blade. I'm finding I'm getting a lot of strange irregularities like little pock marks and thin layers compared to the blue hilt that I printed, which came out perfect (save for some warping that I believe my enclosure may fix). The thin layers problem is actually leading to failed prints, which is a real pain when you're most of the way up a 7 hour blade section.

Anyone have any advice for printing silk PLA, or if the problem I'm having might be a printer or settings issue? I've attached some pics.

There are two of the print I did last night, which suddenly started getting thin layers before spaghettifying. There's one of another section of the blade with lots of imperfections and even "collapsed" sections. There's one of the tip of the blade, where the details are really deformed and there are other irregularities. And finally there's one of the hilt, printed in blue filament with almost no problems save for the warping, which I believe I've solved.

Ender 3 Pro

Blue was printed at 200f nozzle, 60f bed. The silver was printed at 230f nozzle, as it seemed to have a lot of trouble extruding at lower temps. 60f bed.

https://preview.redd.it/w2lmt6dl6f8e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ef646e4855a0fd030a7b2b728ae2a75126b76da4

https://preview.redd.it/ksnoj5dl6f8e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=82b9f1c635ce0ab8284259ae778e10f8aeacb238

https://preview.redd.it/3rh116dl6f8e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=db4bb2d81d72d318f117c13f53b227c031a94645

https://preview.redd.it/zsxpnkdl6f8e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b34889a3925bd333ee4ec44afe8f31491d5ce19d

https://preview.redd.it/5xbkl7dl6f8e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f39f2a3e284d028d2499c4fa2bca19f1d639e5c

This printer just won't cease to surprise me, and I don't know if I should be pissed or stunned with the mini 2 that could I totally recommend the Tiertime UP mini 2, it's proprietary software (both for the printer and in the printer) is an absolute dream to navigate and learn. And there's so many different settings to choose from, it's not limited in any way at all!! 0.o

Please suggest me fixes(I use a stock ender 3 v2)

I don’t expect it to be full quality print but this is just unacceptable can it be fixed? I tried washing the printbed, coldpull changing filament and adjusting height

Hi, everyone! I am brand-new to 3D printing as a hobby and am learning fast about just about everything. I am trying to find out if it's possible/durable/stupid to use Mod Podge + Acrylic Paint as a primer in lieu of a spray filler primer?

I want to do some painting on my new prints over Christmas break (hashtag teacher life, hooray) and we've had a nasty cold snap here, meaning I don't think I can get the spray primer to adhere correctly in these temperatures. My previous experience in real-world painting comes from polymer clay sculpting, where, for the low, low price of "I have both of these things sitting on my shelf," you can prime most porous materials with a mix of acrylic and Mod Podge and paint away.

Has anyone tried this? Am I doomed to wait on the finicky NC weather for a warmer day?

Specs, if helpful:

Primarily Bambu's brand of baby's first PLA, Bambu P1S, specifically looking at painting a D&D dice tower (Fate's End Wizard Tower)

Thank you!

for context, this is a very old filament, brittle as heck, and look how it broke after a night on the printer

Hi, i habe got the Sculpto 2 Pro 3D printer with a SCARA kinematic and the software is not working. My question to you is what I could still do with/ to this printer to make it work?

So currently I design some things and towards the end of one of the designs I got the idea to emboss my name somewhere small in a corner. Like a brand name of sorts.

So I made the sketch, the extrusion and thought:

How do people feel about doing that?

Do you guys think it is ok or even cool or do you disagree doing that? I am really not sure and thought why not ask reddit for some opinions?

Thanks!!

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Im printing with PLA, silk pla, tpu and petg. I retune the first layer every time I switch filament and my question is: Is it really necessary?