I tried using rubbing iso and scrapping it for hours but it doesnt work. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hey,

I have a prusa MK4 and use prusament PETG, i have read online that dichloromethane can be used to smooth PETG(vapor smoothing). My question: is it safe afterwards to use for a chocolate mold?

I know you can also sand it but that takes a lot of work and time. Any advice or critique is welcome.

I lost one, and they are a pain in the ass to clean . Using the Saturn 3 Ultra.

I'm attempting to make a double hinge that will allow my keyboard to hang and once ready to use the keyboard, lift up and tighten the tension, then rotate the keyboard towards me and tighten tension. Leaving me with a keyboard close to me and at a good angle.

Unit is meant to bolt to the side of NLR 2.0 using the existing bolts (no holes made yet).

In case anyone is interested, the keyboard tray will allow the keyboard to slide in without falling out and still have access to the keys.

If you guys have any comments or better design ideas please feel free to improve on it and or let me know. This is a very rough design that I took some tension hinge stl files and mashed them together.

Hopefully this kind of design can work and make yours and my simracing experience much better.

Link to hinge design/idea:

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/6hirM5fAC21-double-hinge-for-sim-rig-keyboard-tray?sharecode=XvQoM_hrWSEPciqceucS6UBBBUdpCJoX6lfZSLep_m0

I run into this issue from time to time and dont know quite what to make of it.

Basically the first layer goes down great, so does the second, then gradually as layers are added a single corner of the print sort of peels up.

It feels like it's partially a bed adhesion issue for sure but something else must be at play causing just the corner to curl up like that? Perhaps something is pulling the corner up accidentally? What is this effect called? How can I mitigate it? In this case a brim is not a great option as I have a flat ~2 layer base. Removing a brim I would worry would make it look ugly around the edges as the bottom is not that thick.

And to be clear I printed this model in variations roughly 4 times. Only one corner of one of them had this issue so it's certainly bed adhesion/cleaning related. However given this is PLA I would love to know what this effect is called and mitigations for when I may be working with trickier prints and or filaments in the future.

https://preview.redd.it/fefhqdc6f1dd1.png?width=442&format=png&auto=webp&s=778b8cd61f8c305ecc06852240dd98545d1789c8

https://preview.redd.it/porb9p87f1dd1.png?width=1278&format=png&auto=webp&s=f8d4c0d1647a6ede70cf20a447a64f3a20f5f246

https://reddit.com/link/1e5cssm/video/0p4663o8f1dd1/player

Printing on a Bambu X1C 0.4mm nozzle with SUNLU PLA

Looking for advice: I printed this travel brush handle and when I screwed in the M3 set screw per the instructions, the ABS cracked. It was quite a tight fit to be honest. The cracks are parallel to the print layers.

Is there something I can do to prevent this from happening, short of modifying the STL? I've printed a lot of objects but haven't done much tinkering with settings/other materials.

Printer: Tiertime Up Mini 2
Material: ABS
Infill: 99%
Resolution: 0.15mm
Slicer: UP Studio

https://preview.redd.it/oiqv0hw7b1dd1.jpg?width=1420&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e2cbf199a3dbb334d47cefbeac46fed59b80ae7a

Hi, so yes, I am dumb. I'm completely new at this, mostly bought it for artsy reasons and didn't research alternatives much Welp, that debacle aside, i learned only ASA and ABS can be smoothened with acetone, which is fine by me, but the temperatire they print at is 240°-270° and this printer only goes up to 250°. I wanted a bigger size, cheap printer(because for my country, that's still very expensive and the filament is twice the price it is anywhere else), but I'm starting to consider returning it. Has anybody printed these materials successfully on this printer/temperature? Do you have any alternative printer suggestions if i decide to return it?

I paid for their discord on printables but I didn’t receive any links and it’s been two days, Someone’s has had issue like this before here ?

Hi,

Until recently I have always printed solely in PLA on my mainly stock Aquila X2 but I have just completed my first project using PETG (Giantarm brand) I ran just under 1kg through the machine without a problem.

Yesterday I tried to go back to printing in generic PLA and my printer will not extrude filament using the settings I have always previously used (Orca slicer presets 1st layer 205 deg C, other layers 210 deg C). The printer will happily extrude PLA at standard temperature when I use the load filament menu option, but as soon as I click print it seems to stop extruding any filament. If I increase the hotend temperature to 235 deg C it extrudes filament perfectly.

Can anybody come up with a reason why this should be happening, as I am at a loss.

Any assistance gratefully received.

Printer details

Voxelab Aquila X2

Alex's firmware

BL Touch

Silicon bed springs

New 0.4mm nozzle

Everything else is stock.

Hi all,

First to the mods, I saw the rules stating to review the monthly purchasing guide pinned, however there is none, so my apologies in advance.

There is simply too much info available as to what to get, and it’s largely opinion based.

I am looking for opinions/advice with supporting specifications and/or reasons for choices, but I am looking for something with the below requirements:

• budget $1500-2000usd max
• ease of use
• beginner friendly
• not too loud
• bed size doesn’t need to be huge, but lets for argument sake say approx 20cm square
• would be nice for a combo printer, laser cutter. Cnc in one but not required.
• self contained
• easy to maintain/repair
• highest possible resolution within the price range

Bonuses:

• supports metal printing (ha!)
• supports silicone printing (are there any)
• fast print times but not essential (quality preferred)
• network accessible api

Now I realise that everyone has their own views, hence I requested specifications as evidence, alternatively, what key metrics should I be looking at? Are there consolidated resources I should look at or resources which I should avoid?

I’m experienced in 3D modeling and to some degree, practical engineering and software engineering so I’m not going to shy away from something a little more advanced, cuatomiseable, hack able or programable/automateable.

I would really appreciate some direction here if anyone can find the time.

Thanks.

TL;DR: Spent over $1,046 on upgrading my Ender 3, which now sells for $139 on Creality's website. Just bought a Bambu Lab P1S for $923.21, which offers a bigger build plate and better printing. Trying to sell my Ender 3 but realizing I’ll never recoup my investment. The Ender 3 brought more headaches and tinkering than joy.

*all prices are in CDN*

Hey everyone,

I wanted to share my journey and regrets with my Ender 3. Back in 2023, I purchased my Ender 3 for $310, thinking it was a great entry into the world of 3D printing. Fast forward to today, and you can grab an Ender 3 for just $139 on the Creality website. This price drop alone was a punch to the gut.

But that’s not the worst of it. I’ve spent a fortune upgrading my Ender 3 to improve its performance. Here’s a breakdown of what I invested:

• Sprite Direct Drive Extruder
• BigTreeTech SKR Mini E3 V3 with silent steppers
• BigTreeTech TFT35 touch screen
• 3x MGN12H linear rails for X and Y axis
• 2x Z rod flexible couplers
• Dual Z-axis upgrade kit
• BLTouch auto bed leveling sensor
• 3D printer enclosure

All these upgrades cost me at least $1,046 plus tax, bringing my total investment to well over $1,300. Pretty sure the price on some of the upgrades have dropped as well. Not to mention all the replacement parts i've needed to buy.

Despite all these upgrades, the Ender 3 was a constant source of frustration. The endless tinkering, the unreliability, needing to learnt to compile firmware, running test prints, the constant headaches— it felt like I was spending more time fixing it than actually printing. The amount of time and effort it took just to get a decent print was exhausting. Even today, i struggle to get good prints. Every few prints something is just off and I need to tinker again.

Today, I decided to move on and bought a Bambu Lab P1S for $923.21 tax in with shipping. It has a bigger build plate and promises far better printing performance right out of the box, for less than what I paid for my ender 3 over the course of about a year. It’s a relief to think about having a printer that works reliably without constant tinkering so i can focus more on making, and less on upgrades and tinkering.

Now, I’m trying to sell my Ender 3, but it’s incredibly tough. I know I’ll never get my money back, and it’s heartbreaking to realize how much I’ve spent for so little return. If you’re considering investing heavily in upgrades, I’d advise thinking twice. Sometimes, it’s better to save up for a more reliable, advanced printer from the start.

Hope this helps some of you avoid the same pitfalls.

Cheers

https://preview.redd.it/eh6hrqneu0dd1.png?width=978&format=png&auto=webp&s=833c97b6826728b1c59f47f517e9f45de20cc886

https://preview.redd.it/l998hv3gu0dd1.png?width=606&format=png&auto=webp&s=8c2c0f07e84f4e7545d01c40b95ef03073897831

https://preview.redd.it/cictf8c6v0dd1.png?width=1301&format=png&auto=webp&s=4cd05ccc204e55edf7c5275d3a1939d11216b089

I have a bunch of unused filament pieces that are too small to be used. Any suggestion for what to do with it?

Hey all. I've spent a fair bit of time today updating https://3dfilamentprofiles.com to show all the updated pricing for Amazon's Prime Day deals on any 3D filaments in the database. I'e also added the ability to sort on the price column.

I have been testing it this evening and I think it is pretty solid. Please let me know if something is not working for you. Otherwise, hope this is useful to you and helps you find some deals.

And If you are not in the market for filament right now, maybe this site can be of use to you anyway. The goal of this site is to be a source of reference for all filament related data - Transmission Distances (for HueForge), temperatures etc.

If you have any ideas for new features please let me know that too. Thanks.

https://preview.redd.it/nn10gndns0dd1.png?width=2430&format=png&auto=webp&s=5028fa99404037fb83f737cf8583c49d93f8be8f

https://preview.redd.it/xlzpo9ups0dd1.png?width=2380&format=png&auto=webp&s=50a59bd18b099c24789ec090e0fc46ca0b226503

I print primarily on PEI smooth build plates, textured plates are not an option and I really need perfect first layer finishes (no ghosting lines or scratches, even minor, transferring to prints). So far I just use my plates until inevitably I make some mistake or they just get some scratches and stuff from wear and then replace them when needed. Obviously though if I can avoid this expense of replacing my beds over and over it would be helpful. I have probably 10 beds that I have lying around because they are too scratched up to be useful, and probably another 5 I've ruined trying to experiment with resurfacing them to a surface that resembles the factory matte finish. I've tried a variety of methods, sandpapers, scotch bright, steel wools, polishes, chemicals, etc, but I can't find anything that TRULY gets them back to how they arrive brand new and free from imperfections that transfer to my prints.

I have also considered just switching to a different build plate type, if anyone knows something that would give a similar matte surface finish but is more durable and/or cheaper to replace. I've been thinking a lightly frosted glass may work but haven't really found any options for buying one of those, especially in a larger size that I need. Thanks for any advice!

So I just got my first 3d printer (MINGDA Magician x2) and first 2 prints came out perfect but then every print afterwards can’t make it past the 5th or so later without this happened. It just kinda all melts together or bunches up. Please tell me how to fix this I’ve tried googling but they make it sound so complicated

The trashbags we use need to be stretched pretty tight to fit over our kitchen garbage, and my grandma doesn't have the dexterity to do it most of them time.

Does anyone know of anything that could make it easier to get the bag over the lip of the can?

Planning to start a business with a printer, prefferabley as large as the elegoo neptune 4 max. Just seeing if there are better options for me than the 4 max.

Hi everyone. I’ve been printing for years on a form 2 and my company just got a Phrozen Mega 8K. Looking for a good resin which does not separate, ideally one that I do not need to stir or mix every time. We do not mind paying more for a better resin.

The form labs resins do not separate, we can leave it for a couple weeks and start printing and it just works. Trying to find a resin like that for the Mega 8K. The resins we are using separate and leave a white film on the bed which is a nightmare. Is there any form labs like resins which require minimal stirring?

Ideally a high quality, low maintanence, does not separate, low odor, resin which is not brittle.

Thank you for any advice!

I am currently working on a project testing the shrinkage rates of various 3D printing materials. The attached images are the results of my tests so far. The project is only halfway done, and I wonder if it's necessary to continue？ I am asking because I am curious about how much different printing devices and different material suppliers might affect the results？ What's your experience with material shrinkage?

https://preview.redd.it/9io87asqj0dd1.jpg?width=1701&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aabf151c4712896f1ca1a59ae9f8e0f02c6205e0