/r/3Dprinting

Photograph via snooOG

/r/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.

News, information, links, help and fun related to 3D printing, 3D printers, additive manufacturing, etc.


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/r/3Dprinting

2,324,291 Subscribers

1

Redesign functional mount print or use different filament (ABS-GF)? Or should I redesign the whole part?

Hi

So I'm currently building a 25 HP electric outboard project using mostly 3D printed parts.

Now the mount holding the shaft/wing to the boat mount has a crack after I use M8 bolts along the layer lines. No wonder since it puts more pressure on those lines on top of the internal stresses created from warping when printing plain old abs.

So at the core the issue is that I put stress on top of the stresses caused by the layer adhesion issues created by warping.abs gf would get rid of some of that, but still the stresses are along the lines of the printed lines. So I wonder is just switching to abs gf enough or is it a critical design mistake to have the stresses along those layer lines.

Got any good ideas on how to solve this, since I need those layer lines in this direction to hold up against the stresses created by the motor?

But I'm starting to doubt that just switching to abs gf is the full solution. Or so you have a good idea on how to fasten this mast to this holder without having these issues? Optimally the layer lines would go all around the mast so it can not move in the x-y direction. And then maybe use some tension to force the part in place to make it not move and hold the mast in place.

Anyways... Here's the video showing it more clearly. Would really appreciate some help - since this is a blocker for me completing the whole projext

1 Comment
2024/06/12
06:44 UTC

1

Left over material from supports, anything better than sandpaper?

Using PETG, after breaking of supports and using the needle pliers as much as I can I still have this rough material left over in several places of my print. Is there any easier way than using 120 grit sandpaper sheets? Feel like I’m getting nowhere with the sandpaper sheets.

0 Comments
2024/06/12
06:42 UTC

1

Guys help

So recently i have been trying to get a statue of kiriko (from game overwatch) but commercially there are really bad ones, i am trying to find soemone who would ship a whole colorful statue of kiriko already printed and i would just have to pay. Thanks for any suggestions.

0 Comments
2024/06/12
06:42 UTC

2

I made a Guitar Spray Jig

Started spraying solid body guitars last years. Made this jig to make life a little easier 😄

0 Comments
2024/06/12
06:37 UTC

2

Brand recommendation

Hi

My Ender 3v2 has caused its last frustration with a shorted main board.

What other brands do you recommend for < AU $ 500?

Bambulab A1 mini? Anker Make?.

2 Comments
2024/06/12
06:24 UTC

3

I make my wife and her friend medals for various 5k runs. This one was for picking up trash along the way.

The Trash Panda 5k was a fun event for my wife and her friend. I’ve been giving them fun tasks to stay motivated and earn medals for each 5k run they do. The printer has been phenomenal at making the medals possible but this one didn’t like the 7. Still not reprinting.

0 Comments
2024/06/12
06:15 UTC

2

How to fix ender 3 bed wobble

0 Comments
2024/06/12
06:08 UTC

1

How to fix bed wobble?

1 Comment
2024/06/12
06:07 UTC

2

Help

Any reason my print came out so feeble? Maybe wet filament? Idk help lol (btw I do realize I leveled the bed like shit but I was in a rush my fault hehe)

0 Comments
2024/06/12
06:02 UTC

15

I built a laser cut/3D printed marble run for Will Smith on a Spanish TV show!!

2 Comments
2024/06/12
05:48 UTC

0

Prusa..Most models ready to ship, no waiting

All Prusa Models are in stock other than the XL and its down to 1 - 2 weeks. What do you think, are they getting faster, or are they getting outsold?

3 Comments
2024/06/12
05:42 UTC

1

There is broken filament stuck in this bowden tube (I cant pull it out from the end and I cant push it out with other filament) what can I do?

5 Comments
2024/06/12
05:27 UTC

1

Ender 3 CoreXY Conversion

I have an S1 Pro i'm taking the main board and hotend from to make a custom CoreXY printer. I plan on eventually using a Sonic pad too. My one issue is that the S1 is a cartesian printer, and CoreXY obviously isn't. How can i make this work via firmware? Would it just be as simple as adding the CoreXY Equations of Motion somewhere in the .cfg Klipper file or am I missing something? Could I modify a Voron .cfg?

tldr: I'm making a cartesian an CoreXY and i don't know how to do the whole klipper firmware thing to make it move correctly.

0 Comments
2024/06/12
05:16 UTC

1

Favorite large printers?

Hello all!

I’m looking to pick up a printer large enough to print objects roughly 660mm X 500mm X 200mm with flexible filaments.

Any suggestions on models that wouldn’t break the bank? Are there good used marketplaces for printers?

Thank you all in advance!!!!

0 Comments
2024/06/12
05:14 UTC

0

I'm getting something 3D printed and I was told "the design parts are seperated" how do I fix

2 Comments
2024/06/12
04:59 UTC

1

pls help with print!

posted this to r/fixmyprint and got nothing but some useless remindme reply. here's the text from that post:

The left one is the problem child. I printed the one on the right first and had to reprint it because the layer adhesion was abysmal. you can see a crack. I found a guide online that said that turning down the fan speed would remedy the problem. i did so, changing the fan speed from 100% to 80%. the print itself is night and day as far as structure goes but there's surface issues that are only on the front side of the part. i am thinking myself that it may be due to the cooling being down. What are your thoughts?

settings:

[Printer] Creality Ender 3 V2 [Slicer] Prusa Slicer 2.6.0-beta4 [Filament] Creality-approved Ender PLA (i know it isnt the best but it's what i have.) [Temperatures] Nozzle: 205 °C, Bed: 60 [Print Speed] Perimeters & infill: 80 mm/s, Support material: 60 mm/s [Retraction] Length: 5mm, Speed: 60 mm/s

i turned up the heat to 210 °C and the fan up to 100% from 80 and i got the same issues. i'm at the end of my rope.

i can clarify anything if needed. thanks

9 Comments
2024/06/12
04:09 UTC

0

Need a little advice..

So I just got my first printer on Sunday, an Ender3 v2 and I’ve made a couple successful prints already. However, twice now I’ve had an issue where I start the print and it’s not feeding the filament. So basically a “ghost” print. The first time after 5 failed attempts to print I swapped from usb to memory card and it printed no issue. The second time I had this issue was just the opposite, had to switch from memory card to usb. What is the reason for this??

2 Comments
2024/06/12
04:02 UTC

2

I hope I'm not in for a rough 10kg

9 Comments
2024/06/12
03:39 UTC

1

Weird Layer Issues

1 Comment
2024/06/12
03:24 UTC

3

Advice to improve wild BLTouch standard deviation?

Hi folks
I've spent a very long time adjusting things on my printer to get my Antlabs BLTouch v3.1 working and a nice UBL mesh and am now at a total loss wondering if it really could be a dodgy probe (surely not?).
Very very VERY graetful for any advice.

  • Ender 3
  • SKR mini e3 v3
  • Marlin 2.1.x bugfix (multiple versions over time and as of now one of the latest builds)
  • Using Marlin config for ender 3 skr mini 3e v3
  • HeroMe 7
  • z Probe offset -1.4 (has varied over time).
  • Z screw bolts are tight
  • belts are tensioned
  • Herome mount is tight with no wobble
  • Bed trammed using a .2 feeler guage.

Issues
I can't create a mesh because of variation in z because the measurements are wildly out. Visualised bed looks like someone threw a rock in a pond.

My bed isn't totally flat and has enough deviation to make inital layers fail.

I always need to adjust Z during the first layer with babysteps (for example M290 Z-0.25).

Wiring

https://preview.redd.it/ea3oe2y0426d1.png?width=776&format=png&auto=webp&s=1e446cc8af3e232a4ed99b52b95ab2b3f7082cb2

https://preview.redd.it/zjoapwc2426d1.png?width=686&format=png&auto=webp&s=fcb6b131d88d0e0a71b5ab8c898ff06d97a7a757

Standard Deviation

Using g28 then M48 P10 X100 Y100 V2

Test one
Standard Deviation: 0.203456

Test two: M112 error (crashed into the bed)

Test three: 0.180625
Test four: 0.155218

Firmware

Config.h

define BLTOUCH

define Z_MIN_PROBE_REPEATABILITY_TEST

define AUTO_BED_LEVELING_UBL

//#define MESH\_BED\_LEVELING

define G26_MESH_VALIDATION

define Z_SAFE_HOMING

//#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN ;

define USE_PROBE_FOR_Z_HOMING ;

define Z_MIN_PROBE_PIN PC14

define FAN_SOFT_PWM

define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { -56, -15.7, 0 } ;

define X_BED_SIZE 230 ;

define PROBING_MARGIN 4 ;

define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR

define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25

define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR

//#define RESTORE\_LEVELING\_AFTER\_G28

define ENABLE_LEVELING_AFTER_G28

define DEFAULT_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT 10.0

define ENABLE_LEVELING_FADE_HEIGHT

define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT { 80, 80, 400, 146.50 }

config.adv

define ASSISTED_TRAMMING

define ASSISTED_TRAMMING_WIZARD

define ASSISTED_TRAMMING_WAIT_POSITION

define PROBE_OFFSET_WIZARD

define SOUND_MENU_ITEM

define BABYSTEPPING

define BABYSTEP_ALWAYS_AVAILABLE

define BABYSTEP_ZPROBE_OFFSET ;

define BABYSTEP_MILLIMETER_UNITS

define BABYSTEP_MULTIPLICATOR_Z 0.01

define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FANS_PAUSE

define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE

define BABYSTEPPING

define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE

define FILAMENT_CHANGE_UNLOAD_LENGTH 400

Not sure if I need to uncommented BLTouch_delay 500 but have done so in previousl abl troubleshooting.

Example of a successful print after babystepping. Those areas on the bed are flat enough (the skipped layer at the top is thanks to filament runout).

https://preview.redd.it/78glf676826d1.png?width=686&format=png&auto=webp&s=6dfe25b2105bce1f10142a270303b7a19565e19c

0 Comments
2024/06/12
03:24 UTC

1

Printing a large piece in 2 parts.

I have an anycubic neo v2. I would like to print a larger piece that won't fit, It is a boat hull for a jet drive I want to try. Would it be feasible to print it in 2 parts with locating tabs and glue it together? I'm also curious if it's possible to fiberglass over the bottom of it for waterproofing sake. Any help would be great 👍

0 Comments
2024/06/12
03:20 UTC

1

Z axis dimensions are not correct

The prints are quite ok in x and y directions. But the dimensions in z axis is always larger than the model I use a resolution of .2mm, PLA at 200°C and 65°C, Printer: elegoo Neptune 3 pro, Slicer Cura, 60mm/s

First few prints came out fine , but now the prints are taller. The irregularities are completely random 8 mm in model became 8.7 mm in print , Another one with 3 mm became 3.5mm, 20mm cube had 20.6mm height

In my observation it seems to me like the issue is occurring more towards the bottom parts of the print.

Any solution for this problem? FYI I'm new to 3d printing

Thankyou

3 Comments
2024/06/12
03:17 UTC

0

3d printer as "passive" income?

So recently somewhere I found a company that pays people with 3d printers for their printing capacity overhead.

If I remember correctly you get the stl file for like a flower basket and the required filament from them and send the finnished parts to themfor money. Unfortunatly I forgot their name, does there ring any bells for you guys?

7 Comments
2024/06/12
03:09 UTC

23

Using ALL build plate

Build plate is 250x210 mm and print was 247x205

12 Comments
2024/06/12
02:59 UTC

0

What's the point of changing the z offset? is there any benefits to making it higher or lower?

I've noticed that there is an option to change the z offset but never understood the point of it. Can anyone explain?

5 Comments
2024/06/12
02:59 UTC

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