Hey guys! I recently got into 3D printing and learned that through MakerWorld you can earn points towards gift cards and filament, ect. I'd love to get my first one (I use one at a library rn) such as the A1 mini. Any tips/ideas for models I could make to earn points? Thanks! (P.S- not trying to self promote but I'm TadTheAwesome on maker world :) )

Has anyone else had recent issues with eSUN PLA+ Cold White filament? It's an opaque bright white with a slight blue tint that I have been using for years. But I just bought a new batch [1] and the color is different. Its a grayer duller white. The difference is subtle, but noticeable when the two filaments are placed together. Which is really irritating because I want the colors to match, it's the only reason I've stuck with this filament.

[1] The good news is that eSun is doing refills now, so no more cardboard spools.

I just got this sunlu s2 filament dryer and I ran it multiple times and The relative humidity keeps going up how can I fix this

Looking to get into printing I have a LITTLE experience on a friend's and was wondering how the multicolor would turn out on like DnD mini. Does anyone have an experience (I'm not ready for a resin printer lol)

Hi all, hoping for some help here. Pretty new to 3D printing, and I know some basics but still learning about what’s possible. Is there a way to convert an Mpeg4 file to .OBJ file? I have access to a color 3D printer and I think it is possible but don’t know where to start. Any tips or advice is much appreciated!

Edit: I forgot to clarify that this is a 360 degree MP4 with myself as the subject, standing perfectly still. I’m trying to figure out the best way to take stills and stitch them together into a color 3D object, but confused where to start.

I'm trying to find something better than Tinkercad, but Onshape is hurting my brain. Does anyone know of a good middle ground in 3d design?

I need advice on how to troubleshoot/repair the sensor for #1 slot sensor. I have been printing successfully with two colors and had to change #1 cartridge, but the pins on the sensor pad stuck and got pulled our of shape. I bent them back, cleaned them, and replaced the cartridge, But, the panel says "no cartridge installed." I don't think I shorted the pins with the power on, but it may have happened. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot and/or repair this error? Many thanks in advance for any and all advice.

Recently worked through one of the most unusual issues I have encountered with a 3D printer - the machine freezing mid-print due to (suspected) corruption of the attached USB thumbdrive. This has happened to my Creality CR-M4 twice, in the year and a half I have been using it (since April 2023) - first in June 2023, and more recently in October 2024. Figured the notes below might help others encountering the same issue in the future.

The symptoms of the issue are as follows:

* The printer would be completely stationary at the exact location where its movement froze - the print bed and gantry would not be moving, the extruder would not be extruding, and the counter showing how many percent of the print had been finished would be stuck on a given value

* The print bed and the extruder would remain hot, at their operational temperature, and the time counter would continue counting print time - hence, at the spot where the extruder froze, there would be a small but noticeable "crater" left in the print, where the hot extruder tip was sitting for potentially hours, melting the surrounding plastic

* Pressing Pause on the printer screen would have no effect at all

* Pressing Stop on the printer screen would (sometimes) cancel the print - otherwise it would have no effect either

* Removing the USB thumbdrive would (sometimes) send the print head to Home position, and the printer would request I re-insert the thumbdrive - otherwise the printer would remain frozen in place, at operational temperature

* After re-inserting the USB thumbdrive - (sometimes) the printer would continue printing from where it froze, as if nothing ever went wrong - or (more frequently) it remain stuck on the "Processing, please wait" window until it was completely shut down

* If the USB was examined on my computer after this failure, I would see a file called "PLR" (presumably short for Power Loss Recovery) on the thumbdrive, whose "Date Modified" showed up as January 1, 2000 - the file would not be readable in Notepad++

I tried several different tests / fixes to solve the issue - the following attempted solutions did not succeed:

* The problem was not with the GCODE, since the issue had happened with 4 separate GCODE files - and I have successfully printed the exact same GCODE files several times before, on the exact same printer, without any problems

* The issue happened at very random times into the print - whether 10 hours 13 minutes or 32 hours 37 minutes - even when printing the exact same GCODE file - so it was not getting stuck on a specific section of GCODE I was trying to print

* The issue was not caused by a power outage - because the same socket powers 2 more of my 3D printers, and none of them have run into any issues during these print failures - which is what happens each time I have a power outage at the apartment, as all of the printers stop printing and cool down to room temperature

* I saw that some users on Reddit who had similar issues were able to resolve them by adding the line "M413 S0 ; Disable power-loss recovery" into their GCODE - I tried this, and the same issue still happened, multiple times, with the same GCODE

* I also saw that other users on Reddit solved a similar issue by updating their firmware - I updated the firmware, and the same issue still continued happening

* I saw that yet other users on Reddit had similar issues because the cable connecting their extruder block had gotten loose, or the cable connecting the motor running the gantry had gotten loose - I checked and both of the cables are plugged in fully on my machine, no disconnection or loose connection was observed

* I saw that yet more users on Reddit had a similar issue and solved it by re-formatting their USB drives - I completely re-formatted my USB drive as well, and the issue still continued happening

* I also tried to swap out the USB drive and tested out 2 more of my old USB drives - that work without issue for normal everyday file transfer operations - both of these also ran into the same issue

Ultimately, I was able to resolve the problem by using a brand new, just opened USB thumbdrive - it has been running prints for almost a month now, and has encountered no new issues with freezing or stalling in place at all - having completed several large multi-day prints back to back already.

My current assumption is that the CR-M4 freezes when it encounters a corrupted / dead sector on the USB drive - perhaps one that had expended its read / write lifetime. Since the CR-M4 appears to write to its PLR file each layer that it prints, and potentially multiple times on each layer - it is writing dozens to hundreds of edits to the USB every day, for months on end (since I run the printer almost 24/7). When the USB drive has a few sectors subsequently expend their read / write lifetime, the printer can still write to the healthy sectors, but will occasionally, by random chance, attempt to write to the bad sectors - and at this point, it will get stuck in a unsuccessful write loop, and stall the print. This would explain why the same bad USB drive could run without issue for over 32 hours, or alternatively freeze up after less than 11 hours of printing.

What could be causing this? Nozzle temp? Bed temp?

Using Ankermade M5, just got it, the free white filament didn't do this and I haven't changed ANY settings aside from z offset.

Is anyone aware of a design (or even conceptual strategy) for a 3d printed timer? I've been searching around, but without success.

My requirements are roughly met by a sandtimer. The exact duration of the timer isn't significant. Greater than 30s would be optimal.

Anyone have ideas?

I'm currently designing some parts that I need to be highly resistant to abrasion, preferably with a low coefficient of friction. I'm still new to 3D printing and haven't had much time to explore a lot of different filaments, but my printer can only hit 300C and isn't compatible with high-performance thermoplastics like POM, PEI, or UHMWP. Are there any materials with similar properties that can be printed with a standard machine?

Hello, the custom 3D printing community is quite large now so i thought I might introduce a new subreddit, r/Custom3DPrinters! This is a place to show off or ask questions about building your own 3d printer or massively upgrading 3d printers.

I have a print where the nozzle cloged during printing frequently and I don't have enough filement to print it again

Can I use a 3d printed container as a pinching salt container? The lid will be loose, just wondering if it’s food safe.

Hey r/3Dprinting, I just printed out this zap zap blaster, and I was going to paint it but I firstly wanted to attach the barrel to the body securely, as I would want to swing this gun around and stuff, recreate jinx scenes and the such hehe. Any suggestions for how I could securely attach the two would be helpful, thank you all!

I am new to 3D printing (only a few projects so far) and I have created a Euchre Trump Cube that I would like to be printed as clear as possible. However, I am having trouble getting this done. I am using Transparent PLA on a Anycubic Kobra 3. What settings can I do to make this as clear as possible?

Thank you

https://preview.redd.it/sz8tu44evx1e1.png?width=822&format=png&auto=webp&s=17fc615bcada291b99b2a8ea256939f00f40394b

So, i made a small mistake and puled the plug while it was running because it was runnig backwards. Now it doesn't work on that plug, but if I connect a plug from another motor, the extruder works fine. What could be the problem? Is there any easy fix? Ender-3 Pro

I produce various housewares in all sorts of PLA (mainly plant pots). Does anyone have a tried and true method for mitigating scuffing on matte PLA? I was thinking a matte crystal clear spray like Krylon. Usually I run a torch over any areas that have been frosted/scratched but that’s a big ask for anyone buying a print.

Alternately, are there any brands that are harder wearing, or an alternate materials reccomended?