An update on my DIY CoreXY!

It's almost "functionally finished". It prints nicely and has most of the modern features a printer like this would have, mainly "almost full-auto" bed-leveling.

What's been done since my last post:

I had panels laser cut to enclose everything, but I still have to figure out how I want to do the front door and top hatch before I have them cut out of clear acrylic. I also added a klicky probe to the front of the Mini Stealthburner which I have to manually connect every time I level the bed. The bed mounting system was total crap, so I printed a temporary solution (white PLA parts) so the bed would stop wobbling. I also added a magnetic PEI sheet to the bed. The hotend was also upgraded and I'm now using a ceramic heater and a CHT nozzle.

Future upgrades include a fully enclosed insulated chamber which will be heated passively. I also have the necessary bearings to make a better bed-mounting solution that won't bend my lead screws over time. I will probably also swap the Z axis linear rods for linear rails, because I have some minor Z-wobble because of the constrained lead screws...

My next upgrade will be switching the extruder to a dragon burner with the Wristwatch BMG extruder. I'm disappointed with the MiniSB's cooling performance, and I'm getting an extremely low volumetric flow rate with it which limits my printing speed to 150mm/s.

Next update will probably come whenever I finish fully enclosing the printer, and switch the Z axis to something nicer, which should take a month or two.

I'm interested in making one of the highly printed printers as an experiment and maybe as a backup printer, and the above seem to be my options. I've got an Ender 3 and access to a Bambu X1. Parts kits seem to be similarly priced for all. It seems that the Snappy is huge and is more prone to play due to the 2-axis bed, the Mulbot is not self-replicating and has a TPU belt that wears out, and the ReprapMJ has a spring that wears out. Are there other considerations to these printers? I am aware this is not a replacement for my Ender.

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A long time ago, in a galaxy far far away, I started a project to build a 3D printer based on the Prusa Mendel i3. This was mostly complete before life and a house move got in the way, and so it has been sat dismantled in storage for years. I would like to get this project going again, but there are some issues.

The situation at present is that I have all the functional components in good working condition (hot end, extruder, hot bed, motors, and controller), but the frame is junk -- the plywood has warped, the threaded rods corroded and linear rails rusted and pitted.

My question is what is the best option from this point?

I recently added a bltouch and bed leveling my old printer. Its a total custom 500mmX500mmX500mm bedslinger I built back in 2017. I decided to update firmware a bit, so I downloaded the 2.0.9.7 LTS, version figuring it would be a good stable base to build from. I got it all working great, but I get a garbled display after a few hours printing. The print goes to completion, but I need to reset to get the display back. Seems like iffy signal timing for the LCD module. My old marlin 1.0 firmware also did this, but very infrequently. My board setup is a mega2560/RAMPS 1.4 with a Reprap discount smart display. This is the 4X20 character display with the rotary switch. I uncommented the line #define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER like in the previous version, and it worked as advertised, mostly, but the display will glitch after awhile, and starts displaying mostly gibberish. The printer still prints OK, just can't tell what is being displayed.

I drilled into the header files a bit, thinking I could tweak some setup/hold times or pulse durations to make the interface a bit more robust, but I am a bit stumped as to where this LCD timing logic is located in the code.

Ideas anyone?

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it's a 24v system and needs a new control board. Geeetech A20M .

and before you ask.....NO. NO, and NO! it's a gt2560 v3! if it where V4 or V4.1 i wouldn't be here!

what i need is is a cheap lcd, control board and card reader setup to slap on the 24v system. i'm done with the stock option BS! need something with swappable, upgradeable NON-proprietary BS!

what is a good <$50 option?

I'm designing a conveyor belt style printer from scratch. It will look similar to a CR30 or ideaformer. I'm looking for a reliable hot end with enough clearance to not require a special nozzle. Right now I am leaning towards the Rapido HF, the only think I don't like is that it seems to be limited to 24V, I had hoped to stay on 12v because I have some parts that I could reuse, mainly fans. I might Also consider the Revo as I see they have a new belt nozzle(longer tip), since they seem well reviewed. Availability seems short right now though.

i am in the process of building a custom corexy printer. this will be my second custom corexy, 3rd custom printer overall. i'mm having an issue with my reprapdiscount smart controller, as seen in the below photo:

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https://preview.redd.it/fcilm1jjodjc1.png?width=1826&format=png&auto=webp&s=59ee1dd43bda18776e06ed7e7baf0122c8b4498a

all it does is show this. i have tried swapping cables around too as i hears sometimes the pin headers are soldered backwards, and that didn't help. i've also played around with the contrast knob on the back, did nothing. i know for a fact the firmware (marlin running on ramps 1.4) is set up correctly because:

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https://preview.redd.it/ot67m8grodjc1.png?width=1826&format=png&auto=webp&s=7e560cf2ba5f128c46de4a7171ef58821192b5dd

the other corexy i built uses the exact same screen, so i borrowed the screen from that one and plugged it in to this printer and it worked fine. yes the screen is showing errors but that's just bc i havent plugged in the hotend or bed yet. i also tried the non working screen on the other corexy and it still just displayed the 2 lines of white blocks. at this point i was running out of ideas, so i said fuck it and reflowed every single solder joint on it, and still nothing changed. well not EVERY solder joint, i havent done the ones for the exp connectors, but those are under the actual lcd itself, so unless i totally desolder the whole thing i don't have access to those pins.

the lcd itself may just be broken, in fact it's from the same seller that sent me the broken arduino from my last post so i wouldn't be surprised. but the fact that it does light up tells me it's at least mostly working? anyone have any ideas of things i havent tried yet?

I'm trying to build a budget prusa i3 mk2. I cant buy the aluminum frame, so I'm going with a wooden box frame.

The specs on reprap.org are 12mm plywood, but I'm wondering if 16mm would do just fine too. I'm not able to get any other size in my country.

Thanks

Here's the link:

https://jiji.ng/surulere/building-materials/high-quality-marine-plywood-filmed-faced-marine-plywood-oZXESorM7MLCcfCjzILCqf6m.html

Complex devices, quadcopters and 3D-printers come from the garage hobby scene.

Garden robots, when they come, will flow from a collaborative project that networks research together.

open source robot arms will precede garden robots

What is the ColtiMech?

It’s a rover that can complete 5-8 garden jobs. The tool system resembles a gun turret mechanism. Rather than shooting bullets in any direction, it rapidly moves tools backwards and forwards, to grow food and flowers, dig, clip and seed. There’s a hose under the arm to emit water from a tank in a chassis box.

Articulated arms are a silly piece of a garden robot, so we rewrote the rule-book based on technology used in pallet-moving-forks and fire-engine aerial apparatus.

It’s a kind of robot meant for small farms and country homes with land. You can rent one for a week if you want a food garden, and it will work 20 hours a day on complex designs.

At the tool-end there is an automatic-tool-changer, like a food processor port with slow rotations, which can clip on different garden tools to dig, weed, clip, scratch, and other tasks.

You can also steer it around your garden by sliding your fingers on a smartphone and squirt water at people for a party trick. It’s a very expensive water pistol, mist fountain, massager, party drink waiter, singing flower delivery bot. It can work for you day and night, 20 hours a day, with an infra-red camera, some phone CMOS, and 1TB storage. It analyses precise 2D and 3D maps of agroecology polycultures and landscape design.

https://preview.redd.it/14qy4ydo94jc1.png?width=1573&format=png&auto=webp&s=ed88e27d7f719b8855d0da3c4fa9e604466c966d

The tools are profiled and selected through 3D visualization and vector maths:

• Seed depositor
• Foliage clipper – for mowing weeds and foliage
• Drill digger / Auger – also for uprooting entrenched weeds
• Claw
• Hoe – A simple trusty tool for abrading and dealing with slugs
• A soil probe – theoretical, current tech is dubious
• A coring drill - to bore tubes of compost into the ground

Field bots will enhance human abilities with super-human ones, for back-straining, ground-level observations and errands 140 hours a week. They will print your designs as a physical flower bed. They will check seedlings every hour for slugs and bugs, map every plant, node and fruit in graphs and optimize precision harvests of chemical-free fruit and veg.

The research encompasses a diverse array of disciplines, mechatronics, biophysics, AI and wildlife. It is so varied and fascinating. As a hobby it is a good way to discover astonishing facts of science and technology.  The following is a design guide for labs and university students. Hopefully it can usher eco-friendly technologies to come sooner.

I struggle with words, am currently based in France. Can I call it the RepGroboto? Garden RepRap sounds cool? I'd love to hear your thoughts for the project. Cheers for reading!

TL;DR

I forgot to backup the files inside the SD and when trying to update the configs these new files (of duet's latest version) obviously don't work. I can connect to the wifi, but the WebUI says "Incompatible firmware version".

When I managed to get it working by rebuilding the sdcard off the Github repo at Tag 2.03beta3, the webUI was broken. No buttons/pages work.

I am selling these 3 pads with 3 magnetic bases 220x220mm, I bought them for kobra 2 but they are too small, they are available for the same price as I bought them, I will send them anywhere in Romania

I have an ender 3 pro but I want to make a Rep Rap printer, but they all seem more expensive than just buying an ender 3. Are there any cheap ones?

I'm interested in upgrading my olde titans to the Orbiter V3.0 ... but I can't find much info about it.

Can I use it with my duet2 and make full use of it's smart features? and how/what would I need?

Hi,I have an issue regarding these modules. Im using Arduino mega to control my project.

Issue:

The motor worked fine enough but I changed speed but at that speed did not funcion so I chaneged speed back but it did not funcion anymore. So I looked at wiring no problems here software uploaded just fine. I tried power cycling it,diffrent motor driver did not help.

fuse is fine

The motor holds its position like its enabled but does not move the driver is warm but absolutly fine for a touch.

So what is wrong ? What do you think?

Can I still build with this ? Of course I need more ..frame ..wires .. etc

Or this is so outdated ?

I would highly value having a way to monitor the flow/feed rate of the extruder.
Is there a way to make that happen?

I’m using a MKS BASE 1.6 board which is an equivalent to Arduino Mega 2560 + RAMPS 1.4 In addition to a Reprap Full Graphic Smart Controller which has a SD slot. The SD Card worked fine until I changed the 10 pin ribbon cables it connects to the board with. The cables were not ready made I crimped them myself. All the functions of the LCD Controller are working fine except for the SD card slot which on inserting the card inside the screen doesn’t even indicate anything not even a reading error as if I haven’t inserted anything at all. My thought process is maybe some pins were switched around? But I am not sure about that. So, if someone has a clue please let me know I would greatly appreciate that!! Thanks in advance for your time!

Hey,

i have a Voron 2.4 with Reprap

Board: Duet 3 MB6HC (MB6HC)
DSF Version: 3.4.0
Firmware: RepRapFirmware for Duet 3 MB6HC 3.4.0 (2022-03-15)

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now i want to use the printer with Orca Slicer.

I load the default Voron Profile and set from Klipper to Reprap in the Printer settings.

https://preview.redd.it/4iek01tyx8dc1.png?width=1446&format=png&auto=webp&s=6ee13ddf5929d82131c35c869826b39910f88842

but this doesn´t work good.

in duet there is a macro.

in a working Prusa Slicer Profile there is another Start Gcode:

but i cannot copy this startcode to Orca.

WHATS WRONG?

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https://preview.redd.it/o1r85eway8dc1.png?width=636&format=png&auto=webp&s=8116a94cf697655fcf8f9ac122ae616ef2793fd1

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Please help me, i am totally new in RepRap

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Thank you!!!!!!!

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Hi everyone! So I'm just finishing my mendel90 build, and after fixing some belt tension issues I thought I was set to go. The problem is that my X motor started locking up and barely moving, or just moving back and forth. Couple of days later, I've tried:

• Regulating the current: I tried elevating it (thinking it was a torque problem) and lowering it (perhaps it was an overheating problem) but got no improvement.
• I removed the motor from the belt and the behaviour continues.
• I switched the X and Y drivers, with no change.
• I connected the motor to the E shield, and it works fine there.
• I connected another stepper to the X driver, and got the same shaky behaviour.

Could this be some faulty connection or outputin the Ramps board or Arduino Mega? Has someone seen something similar, and can tellmme where to look?

I tried looking online, but all I found were torque posts.

I'm rebuilding some FDM printers that my company designed in 2018, and I'm looking to upgrade the hotends. Currently, they use a generic Chinese E3D V6 clone with a 0.4mm nozzle. Can anyone recommend a hotend available on AliExpress for under $50 that would be an improvement over the existing one?

Need help finding a starter 3D printer that is on the cheaper side and reliable

Hi everyone! Excuse how incredibly random this is for a first post, but I had a sudden idea while looking at PEI-belts for conveyor-belt printers that are now starting to pop up.

So, it just came to mind since one of the most print-time increasing parts of belt printers is the "first layer" being done for every Z-layer of a print.. which makes it really slow down every layer. But what if that could be already done before it even reaches the rest of the X&Y part of prints, by being done for the next layers at the same time as the X&Y is being printed for "current" layers?

So the idea that came to mind, is an extra offset X-axis print head (further "up", and thus further back "up the Z", so it's "higher up" than the primary head), a secondary print head that only does the X line on the Z axis.

So that as the primary head is printing the rest of the Z-height's X&Y axis parts after the "first layer"-line, the "first-layer head" is printing the X-line first layer further up the belt and later the primary head reaches that line and prints the rest of the X and Y of the layer.

Might sound a tad nutty to use IDEX for something like this, but it would substantially increase print-speed for belt-printers (hypothetically).

Thoughts on this?