Hello, I'm resurrecting my 3D printer, I made it a long time ago, it's using Marlin 1.1, it uses ramps. When I print some old gcode that I have on its SD card it prints fine, but when I generate a new one (Now I'm using Prusa Slicer, I used to use Slic3r) and set the acceleration that I used before in Slic3r it can't even do homing, it seems that the motors get weak, if I don't use acceleration adjustment it works normally (but with a ghosting effect on the parts, which doesn't happen in the old gcodes), I noticed that in Prusa Slicer it defines it as "max acceleration" and not just "acceleration" like in Slic3r, it is also limited not giving me all the acceleration options according to perimeters or small perimeters, but there are options per axis that I don't understand very well. I would like help understanding these settings and how to correctly configure acceleration in the Prusa Slicer, and also understand why this homing failure occurs when acceleration is set in the Prusa Slicer.

I bought a motherboard (SKR Mini E3 V3.0), that only has 4 drivers. Being one for the extruder. (Correct me if I'm wrong). And I wanna do a printer with this one.

I bought a SKR Mini E3 V3.0, for my prusa mk2 dolly, by Thomas Sanladerer. But I need to know if this motherboard is compatible with this model, or I'll need to buy a RAMPS 1.4.

I am trying to come up with a homedelta.g script. The one that was generated with the configuration tool gives the error:

M98 P"0:/macros/test-homedelta.g"
Error: in file macro line 9: G1: target position not reachable from current position

From some internet searching this seems to be a well known problem. Thanks for any input.

Here is what I am running;

; home linear delta

G91 ; relative positioning

var homedHeight = 255 ; set homed height plus 5mm

G1 H1 X{var.homedHeight} Y{var.homedHeight} Z{var.homedHeight} F600 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops

G1 H2 X-10 Y-10 Z-10 F6000 ; go down a few mm

G1 H1 X{var.homedHeight} Y{var.homedHeight} Z{var.homedHeight} F600 ; move all towers to the high end once more stopping at the endstops

G90 ; absolute positioning

G1 X0 Y0 F6000

Hi all, I am running a Duet 2 WIFI and I am getting this message when heating the hot end. I have tried replacing the hot end and the wiring but get the same message when heating. I am running firmware 1.19.2 (trying to upgrade but it is putting up a fight). What do you think, power supply, the duet board itself?

Thanks for any comment.

On a budget. I would go with a Ramps 1.4, but decided to invest a little more.

I already have a 3d printer. And I wanna make a reprap. But with soo many printers, I would like to know your opinions. I want it to be cartesian, and an easy one to make.

Hello everyone. I have a grabber i3, and I would like to change its frame, does anyone know of any structure compatible with its bars that is completely printable? Without any part that is not printed, or 99% printed.

My nema 17 on the x axis would only turn for a tiny fraction of what it should, tried changing drivers, changing X's location with E1 on the ramps 1.4, nothing seems to work out. Perhaps there are some configuration to be made under Marlin Firmware? please share you ideas...

i'm planning to change the steppers on my corexy due to very high vibrations and vfas.

the printer in question is a custom ender 7, so 265x265 roughly, and the steppers are the 60mm ones with 8mm staft.

i have to decide between using only two 48mm, 2amps steppers like the vorons, or going awd with four 39mm, 1.5 amps steppers. the difference in price other than the 2 more steppers is about 12 euros for 2 more couplers, i have all the rest.

i don't care for absurd speeds but only good accelerations and the best surface finish possible (smaller steppers could help with the second?)

Hey folks,

I'm aiming for the development of a new printing model for my university lab, but I'm really in doubt about witch model I should choose. Saw many articles using Anet A8, Ender 3, Prosa I3 and Graber i3. The idea here was a low cost reprap open source 3D printer and adapt it to get a higher precision, something about 0.05mm (50um) for lab propurses. Do you guys have any tips about the model that I should probably use?

Hello, I need to update myself in this world of 3D printers, I built mine in 2011 and stopped watching content in 2013, now I want to go back to this world, I'm cleaning my printer and I'm thinking about doing updates and going back to this world for good. A little while before I stopped, people in the forum I participated in were considering using the Arduino Due, I saw that there are already 32-bit boards, but I didn't find much talking about the Arduino Due, didn't it work? What DIY are people using that is 32-bit? And is there anything 64-bit? (using the Raspberry Pi perhaps?)... Has the Marlin software improved? Is it still used?

Thanks everyone.

I'm currently rebuilding my large format (~450mm x 1100mm) printer and am redesigning the heated bed. The original bed utilizes nichrome wire sandwiched between two sheets of glass, powered by 24V. Although this felt like a clean and low-cost approach at the time, the entire build platform only pulls around 200W on my 24V PSU which isn't enough to get the bed temperature much higher than 40C, which obviously doesn't work for PETG or ABS.

Anyway, I'm considering utilizing 8-10 MK2B PCBs instead as they have a much higher W/cm2 (~0.35 instead of 0.04). I have some large 12V power supplies laying around so could go that route directly, but I'd need to put together a relatively heavy-duty MOSFET based controller as 10 MK2B boards would pull ~1200W or 100A at 12V. That being said, I realized that I could potentially power 10 MK2B boards in series instead, directly from 120VAC and utilize a ~15A SSR which would cut down on the unwanted heat dissipation by quite a bit.

With the obvious line voltage safety considerations in place and potentially a couple additional PTC overtemp cutoff circuits, has anyone attempted this route with PCB heaters in series or had any issues on the usability side? I'm mostly worried about creepage distances on the MK2B PCBs (although split over 10 resistive loads in series, we're only dealing with 12V at a time on each board). If anyone has any suggestions or gotchas before I delve into testing, it would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, I have a Smoothie kind-of-compatible 3D printer (Zmorph) that features a Sunbeam 2.0 board. Google finds only one single reference on the internet, that this board actually exists. Looks like it was produced by a Polish company, which also didn't leave a trace behind.

Does maybe someone happen to have a schematic or any documentation of this board? I am trying to configure original Smoothie firmware to run on this board, as original Zmorph custom port of Smoothieware is pretty buggy. And config file is missing some hardware definitions.

TIA!

https://preview.redd.it/e6mvhlzbm2yd1.jpg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8a093b044e8992ff7274901f9f6ef9bcbc244bcf

Hey guys, I'm currently searching for some cheap as possible aluminum extrusions with a max length of about 1000mm. They should ship to Europe (Germany) for free or at reasonably low price. Do you have some "secret" places where I could get some of those cheaply? They don't even have to be new or perfectly smooth, just straight.

was thinking about different ways you could do leveling with a 3d printer and one came to mind that i'm curious to hear other's opinion on. so you would first get the bed level, as in parallel with the nozzle. whether this be manually with leveling knobs and springs, or something like a bltouch, it doesn't really matter. the build platform would just need to be parallel to the nozzle. but then comes the problem of the z offset. and a lot of cnc routers use a system where you have a little piece of metal with a known thickness, lets say 20mm. and it has a wire coming off of it that you plug into the control board of the cnc, and a alligator clip that you put on your endmill. then, since the endmill is metal, and so is the z probe, it will slowly move down until the endmill touches the probe, electricity is conducted, and now the endmill is exactly 20mm above the stock. then you just subtract 20mm from your z zero coordinate and now you have found the exact top of your stock. could this theoretically work for a 3d printer? the basic concept would be the same, you would put the alligator clip on the nozzle and use that to find the point 20mm above the bed, and then subtract 0

so i have an old 3d printer with a dead motherboard and lcd and im trying to replace them with a gt2650 rev a+ motherboard and a fysetc mini12864. i cant seem to figure out the firmware, ive tried marlin 2.0.9.7 and 1.1.9.1, neither seem to work right. i enable the lcd in marlin, enable the rgb_led library thing i need, and i feel like im doing everything right. then i go to upload it to the gt2560, sometimes it just wont compile, ill change some settings and then sometimes it will, but even then the mini12864 just stays completely black.

anyone have any advice? i'm using arduino ide for the firmware. i've uploaded firmware to a ramps 1.4 and reprapdiscount screen before, so i'm not completely new to this but i'm certainly still not good at it.

I can probably get a few 3D printed parts and buy some specialized things like motors and a microcontroller, but I want to build a much of it as possible out of commonly available materials and then make a proper reprap with that. I checked the repstrap page on the wiki but the pages look abandoned.

Thanks for any recommendations you have

I'm working on a large frame for a 1m x 1m x 2m build volume with a pellet extruder.
Given that the weight of the pellet extruder won't let me print too fast, is there any benefit to a core XY kinematics, or can I just use a standard - one more on X, one motor on Y set up, like an Ender 5 box style Cartesian (not bed slinger)? Other than a little less on motors, are there any benefits?

Given my bed size I was thinking the long belts may not be ideal.

Hello. Been developing a custom machine using ramps 1.4 as a base. The hotend is custom machined too because it needs to house a very specific (sorry cannot be more specific) type of filament.

i assembled everything, triple checked the connections and wiring, etc... everything seems to be in order.

What happens: I set the hotend to 120 C, everything is smooth. heats up, melts, works fine, and so on.

When I try to raise the temp to 130 C, it seems like it cannot reach it (as it tries to go further but cannot). After a couple of seconds, the screen goes blank and starts beeping until I unplug.

If I keep it at 120 it stays on for hours, no issue there. Could it be that because of the custom hotend (quite big compared to the usual hotends) I need more than one heating elements and the power of one is not enough?

I tried swapping parts and the same thing happens.

Any help or inspiration would be incredibly appreciated!

HEY guys im assembling my diy ender 3 and i cant find plates or corners here can you guys give me printable files for all the parts that i can print

I am designing a new core xy printer and I have an idea to use belts and a jackshaft to move the bed vertically with a single stepper. i would have a 3:1 reduction belt to allow enough torque. Has anyone seen something similar?

I'm trying to use the remains of my old D-Bot to realize a new project:

Using the old stepper motors to turn big round dials by mapping the voltage from a potentiometer 0-5v to the angle of a stepper 0-360 (or number of steps, in my case 0-200 * microstepping factor).

The "MotorKnob" example sketch in the arduino default library is pretty much already what I was thinking about, and works great with the tiny stepper in the Arduino starter kit, but making this work with my old DRV8825 drivers has proven a LOT more difficult, the libraries I could find for them are very hard to understand and they have a lot of features that I don't know how to use. The motors keep loudly rattling, moving rather slowly and sometimes making unwanted and unexpected movements. My code is probably garbage, tbh.

Do you guys know if Marlin is somehow easily adjustable to realize this way of operation with all the features like silent stepping enabled? It seems to be programmed by people who have much better understanding of the capabilities of chips like the DRV8825 than me. But I also don't think gcode has much to do with this idea.