Hello, I need to update myself in this world of 3D printers, I built mine in 2011 and stopped watching content in 2013, now I want to go back to this world, I'm cleaning my printer and I'm thinking about doing updates and going back to this world for good. A little while before I stopped, people in the forum I participated in were considering using the Arduino Due, I saw that there are already 32-bit boards, but I didn't find much talking about the Arduino Due, didn't it work? What DIY are people using that is 32-bit? And is there anything 64-bit? (using the Raspberry Pi perhaps?)... Has the Marlin software improved? Is it still used?

Thanks everyone.

I'm currently rebuilding my large format (~450mm x 1100mm) printer and am redesigning the heated bed. The original bed utilizes nichrome wire sandwiched between two sheets of glass, powered by 24V. Although this felt like a clean and low-cost approach at the time, the entire build platform only pulls around 200W on my 24V PSU which isn't enough to get the bed temperature much higher than 40C, which obviously doesn't work for PETG or ABS.

Anyway, I'm considering utilizing 8-10 MK2B PCBs instead as they have a much higher W/cm2 (~0.35 instead of 0.04). I have some large 12V power supplies laying around so could go that route directly, but I'd need to put together a relatively heavy-duty MOSFET based controller as 10 MK2B boards would pull ~1200W or 100A at 12V. That being said, I realized that I could potentially power 10 MK2B boards in series instead, directly from 120VAC and utilize a ~15A SSR which would cut down on the unwanted heat dissipation by quite a bit.

With the obvious line voltage safety considerations in place and potentially a couple additional PTC overtemp cutoff circuits, has anyone attempted this route with PCB heaters in series or had any issues on the usability side? I'm mostly worried about creepage distances on the MK2B PCBs (although split over 10 resistive loads in series, we're only dealing with 12V at a time on each board). If anyone has any suggestions or gotchas before I delve into testing, it would be greatly appreciated!

Hi, I have a Smoothie kind-of-compatible 3D printer (Zmorph) that features a Sunbeam 2.0 board. Google finds only one single reference on the internet, that this board actually exists. Looks like it was produced by a Polish company, which also didn't leave a trace behind.

Does maybe someone happen to have a schematic or any documentation of this board? I am trying to configure original Smoothie firmware to run on this board, as original Zmorph custom port of Smoothieware is pretty buggy. And config file is missing some hardware definitions.

TIA!

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Hey guys, I'm currently searching for some cheap as possible aluminum extrusions with a max length of about 1000mm. They should ship to Europe (Germany) for free or at reasonably low price. Do you have some "secret" places where I could get some of those cheaply? They don't even have to be new or perfectly smooth, just straight.

was thinking about different ways you could do leveling with a 3d printer and one came to mind that i'm curious to hear other's opinion on. so you would first get the bed level, as in parallel with the nozzle. whether this be manually with leveling knobs and springs, or something like a bltouch, it doesn't really matter. the build platform would just need to be parallel to the nozzle. but then comes the problem of the z offset. and a lot of cnc routers use a system where you have a little piece of metal with a known thickness, lets say 20mm. and it has a wire coming off of it that you plug into the control board of the cnc, and a alligator clip that you put on your endmill. then, since the endmill is metal, and so is the z probe, it will slowly move down until the endmill touches the probe, electricity is conducted, and now the endmill is exactly 20mm above the stock. then you just subtract 20mm from your z zero coordinate and now you have found the exact top of your stock. could this theoretically work for a 3d printer? the basic concept would be the same, you would put the alligator clip on the nozzle and use that to find the point 20mm above the bed, and then subtract 0

so i have an old 3d printer with a dead motherboard and lcd and im trying to replace them with a gt2650 rev a+ motherboard and a fysetc mini12864. i cant seem to figure out the firmware, ive tried marlin 2.0.9.7 and 1.1.9.1, neither seem to work right. i enable the lcd in marlin, enable the rgb_led library thing i need, and i feel like im doing everything right. then i go to upload it to the gt2560, sometimes it just wont compile, ill change some settings and then sometimes it will, but even then the mini12864 just stays completely black.

anyone have any advice? i'm using arduino ide for the firmware. i've uploaded firmware to a ramps 1.4 and reprapdiscount screen before, so i'm not completely new to this but i'm certainly still not good at it.

I can probably get a few 3D printed parts and buy some specialized things like motors and a microcontroller, but I want to build a much of it as possible out of commonly available materials and then make a proper reprap with that. I checked the repstrap page on the wiki but the pages look abandoned.

Thanks for any recommendations you have

I'm working on a large frame for a 1m x 1m x 2m build volume with a pellet extruder.
Given that the weight of the pellet extruder won't let me print too fast, is there any benefit to a core XY kinematics, or can I just use a standard - one more on X, one motor on Y set up, like an Ender 5 box style Cartesian (not bed slinger)? Other than a little less on motors, are there any benefits?

Given my bed size I was thinking the long belts may not be ideal.

Hello. Been developing a custom machine using ramps 1.4 as a base. The hotend is custom machined too because it needs to house a very specific (sorry cannot be more specific) type of filament.

i assembled everything, triple checked the connections and wiring, etc... everything seems to be in order.

What happens: I set the hotend to 120 C, everything is smooth. heats up, melts, works fine, and so on.

When I try to raise the temp to 130 C, it seems like it cannot reach it (as it tries to go further but cannot). After a couple of seconds, the screen goes blank and starts beeping until I unplug.

If I keep it at 120 it stays on for hours, no issue there. Could it be that because of the custom hotend (quite big compared to the usual hotends) I need more than one heating elements and the power of one is not enough?

I tried swapping parts and the same thing happens.

Any help or inspiration would be incredibly appreciated!

HEY guys im assembling my diy ender 3 and i cant find plates or corners here can you guys give me printable files for all the parts that i can print

I am designing a new core xy printer and I have an idea to use belts and a jackshaft to move the bed vertically with a single stepper. i would have a 3:1 reduction belt to allow enough torque. Has anyone seen something similar?

I'm trying to use the remains of my old D-Bot to realize a new project:

Using the old stepper motors to turn big round dials by mapping the voltage from a potentiometer 0-5v to the angle of a stepper 0-360 (or number of steps, in my case 0-200 * microstepping factor).

The "MotorKnob" example sketch in the arduino default library is pretty much already what I was thinking about, and works great with the tiny stepper in the Arduino starter kit, but making this work with my old DRV8825 drivers has proven a LOT more difficult, the libraries I could find for them are very hard to understand and they have a lot of features that I don't know how to use. The motors keep loudly rattling, moving rather slowly and sometimes making unwanted and unexpected movements. My code is probably garbage, tbh.

Do you guys know if Marlin is somehow easily adjustable to realize this way of operation with all the features like silent stepping enabled? It seems to be programmed by people who have much better understanding of the capabilities of chips like the DRV8825 than me. But I also don't think gcode has much to do with this idea.

As you might have guessed already. I am a beginner with 0 knowledge when it comes to these things. So, please go easy on me. But, is there a very cheap printer which is under $100? I want to get my hands wet. Might even open it up to see how to functions. I am not even thinking about quality right now. I might in the future after saving up for couple of years get Bambu X1* Carbon or something similar.

Help me out please 🙏

Hello, I am currently working on a Delta printer (in addition to the resin printer that I have already presented here) and I would like to integrate a box directly into it to be able to print ABS and ASA. I have already done the calculations and normally everything is good in terms of measurements, the walls do not interfere. However I wonder about the operation of the box, I had planned to use W1209 thermostat to regulate the internal temperature of the box (which would trigger an internal fan if the temperature of the box is too high), but is this necessary ? Or are just the walls enough? We could turn the question like this if I'm not clear enough: should the box integrated into the printer be active or passive? Thanks you ;)

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Hey guys i wanna build a 3d printer but stepper motors are so expensive here i can use 2 stepper motors or 3 at max and i dont have access to lead screws Any help?

Hello everyone. I seek anyone's knowledge of printing peek and if anyone here has built a high temp printer. Currently printing with an f430 at work. But tinkering with the idea of building my own

Hi All,

I have a modix big 60 with a Duet Wifi board, and I'm trying to update the firmware. Following their guide, it said to update to v3.0, then update again to 3.4.6.

I managed to update to v3.0, as confirmed by putting in M115.

When I put the v3.4.6 files on the SD card and plug it in, the console on the LCD doesn't boot properly and I can't input Mcode commands. I've tried a different SD card with the same result. When I delete the files from the SD card and plug it back in, the console comes back and I can input M code commands again. Here are some pictures of the screens

Any idea what's going on and how I can progress? I've sent an email to Modix support, but they haven't been super helpful yet. They just linked me to the RepRap upgrade page, where I didn't see any troubleshooting steps that sound like what I'm seeing.

Update: It appears to be something with either the Config.g file, or how the firmware is interacting with the config.g file. Deleting JUST that file but leaving everything else the same lets it "connect," but I'm unable to access anything on the card. I've tried several different versions of the Config file, including generating a new one with the Configurator tool, and they all refuse to connect.

I've seen the comments about PanelDue, and am still looking through the documentation. My setup page says the machine is on 1.24.0, and I know my screen is 7in, but I'm unsure how to tell if it's 5i, 7i, v3.0, or something else.

I'm looking for a open source mini 3D printer with print size about 15x15 maximum. Btw, this is solely a project for fun. I already have a 3D printer that takes care of anything I wanna print and I can go and buy one if I want, but I wanna make it myself, print the necessary parts and go shopping to get the metal/electronic parts.

When I compile Marlin the following error appears: Compilation error:

'DiskIODriver_USBFlash' does not name a type; did you mean 'DiskIODriver_SPI_SD'?

What do I need to change?

Hello. Its a common knowledge that the whole todays personal 3d-printing industry was born from RepRap project and particularly from Marlin firmware. But except general knowledge, are there any press articles or scientific publications with more factual details on this? For example, there was a boom of new personal 3d-printer projects in 2011-2014, and I'm sure most of them did use Marlin firmware with little changes or without changes at all. But is there a kind of research which estimates number of those projects (or at least points key players of that time) and gives details on software they used as firmware. I have been already looking around info like that for some time and for now could not find even direct confirmation that MakerBot Replicator-1 did use Marlin (although there is quite a lot info on RepRap also in scientific publications). Thank's

Purchase a small cooler that will run off of 12 or 24 volts dc. It has an optional ac power supply with an output of 14.5 volts. My question is will this run using a 20 volt dc Dewalt battery. Since it is dual voltage I am thinking it will run on any voltage above 12 or below 24. Is that correct? Thanks

I've got a Huxley from 10 years ago that hasn't been used in at least 7. Is it worth donating on to someone do you think or just recycle it? Realistically I'm never going to have time to get it working again.