I need a longer screw, but I don't have one that fits a Tayda box in my bold box. It's not an M4. Is it an imperial size?

Thanks.

I'm preparing the enclosure for a new member of the family.

I’m working on a pedal with 1 input, 2 outputs, and a power jack crammed onto the short side of a 125B enclosure. The wires go from the jacks to a tight cluster of screw terminals, and then fan out to the rest of the circuit.

The pedal has noise problems that I’m working on debugging. You can hear, I think, junk from other parts of the circuit.

I saw this piece of advice against putting inputs and outputs close to each other in high-gain pedals. I’m wondering what counts as “close to each other” and what counts as “high-gain.” (This particular circuit has a gain of ~4.) Basically, is it even worth trying to debug this noise, or have I doomed myself by laying out the jacks and screw terminals this way.

I decided to build this simple OD by Nick Greer. I socketed the transistor to try out different ones on hand, but to my weird surprise, the best one was a 2N3904 put in upside down. Basically swapping the collector for the emitter. It works fine the way it was intended on the layout, but for the life of me I have no idea why it sounds so much better the wrong way in! More gain and more grunt, just way more life, hard to describe. Anyone know why this is the case?

https://preview.redd.it/57l2lcus4wzc1.png?width=605&format=png&auto=webp&s=99518dea2c61cdf36d2411a12f8d3ec56c59b156

So I've had a Fulltone 2B Boost pedal for sale locally for quite some time, and haven't gotten even a single bite. Understandably, imo, it's not like it's a popular boost by any means.

I've also always liked the looks and shape of the fulltone enclosures, has had me thinking lately that I could just gut it, repaint it and put a one knob fuzz in there or something. I'm very much on the fence about it since it's still in excellent condition and works perfectly. Just curious for some second opinions about it, let me know what you think!

Basically what the title says, I was changing capacitors just to see what happened and i unplugged the battery when i lifted the guitar it made sound.

I guess it’s the 4700uF capacitor

Hey! I have an idea to use a key switch for a pedal of mine, but I noticed that most key switches online have less poles than the traditional 3PDT. I was wondering what the main difference between these two switches are, and what I would be forfeiting electrically by picking this switch? Thanks alot!

Sorry for a noob question. I'm building a harmonic percolator. It sounds amazing, but it is crazy loud. With the input pot maxed out, unity with bypassed sound is only achieved when the output pot is a hair off zero.

I have MP40 in Q1, 2n3904 in Q2, 220k Q1 feedback resistor, 2.2M Q2 feedback resistor, 68k Q1 collector resistor and 47k Q2 collector resistor. I don't have strong feelings about the collector resistors, but it seems that 2.2M feedback resistor is responsible for a lot of the volume but also a lot of the growl that I like. The output resistor is a 50k lin pot, do I have other options than dropping the value of the output pot?

Hi everybody !

I would like to instal a momentary switch on my big muff. The goal is to to keep the existant latch switch to engage/disengage the pedal too.

Surprisingly I didn't find anything online to do it. Would you guys have any ideas on how I can proceed ?

Thank you :)

Hey everyone,

It's a screenshot from a video of one of my favourite band and I wanted to know if some of you would be able to identity what's on his pedalboard !

Thank you !

I have a fuzz pedal (that isn't documented on any diy sites) that I'd like to create a schematic for and build a clone of. Just for personal use to learn more and have fun.

My experience includes pcb kits and some breadboarding. Nothing really involving reverse engineering. I do have a multimeter.

I figure a fuzz is pretty simple and would be a good place to start. But I don't know how to begin. Any tips or resources?

I can't imagine how you guys all remember to shut off your irons. Anyone else have to deal with this sort of forgetfulness? Did you find a solution of your own?

Back when, a few days after purchasing my first soldering iron I realized I was going to end up forgetting to shut if off somewhere between 50% and 100% of the time. Either from rapid context switching between day job and side projects or just my general forgetfulness - I found I just could not be helped with remembering to shut this thing off.

So I purchased one of these inexpensive plugs (https://www.amazon.com/Century-Digital-Countdown-Repeat-Function/dp/B01D3QEK4E) and plugged the soldering station into that. It's worked a charm since then. I usually just ping the 15 or 30 minute button and I'm good to go. If I forget to ping the off button when I'm done, the thing cuts power when the countdown is done. problem solved.

The first station

Today I received a new iron / hot air tool and quickly hacked together another rickety auto shut off around it.

today's version

If I didn't have this in place, I'm pretty sure I'd have burned down the lab by now.

Hi, does anyone have a diagram that can show me the best way to hook this circuit up for 9v battery AND 9v jack?

theoretical question as I have not disassembled the pedal I have to even look…

I have a Fjord Fuzz Kvasir, and it’s a transistor fuzz (I think, def not silicone or germanium). The controls are volume, Bias and I believe fuzz gain. The issue is, when I have the bias knob anywhere past noon clockwise, the unity gain goes way down, to the point that my clean signal is louder than the fuzz pedal. Volume on pedal is cranked.

What determines pedal volume output? Is it the bias knob that complicates this due to the nature of adjusting voltages?

And I’m assuming no, but is it simply a resistor swap that could get me a bit more useable volume out of it?

I can work on disassembly and posting some pics and I’m not sure if a schematic is out there.

Alrighty boy and girls! Here it is, this is The Doohickey, I couldn’t be more pumped on how it turned out and I’m hoping people are really into it :) so what we have here is essentially a shaker/noise box that you’re able to run your guitar signal through. It requires no power supply since it’s pretty much just signal flow direction/redirection. The toggle switch on the front allows you to go between a clean signal, guitar and module signal in tandem, and also just the module alone can be played with. Fun to use by itself but definitely waaaaay more fun when passed through some delays or reverbs or some gritty distortion. Once I film the demo I’ll try to get it onto here too, very excited to show you guys this, ps pls excuse my desk 😇

Here's the station I'll be using.

so i want to make a pedal and it’s inspired by doug martsch from built to spills use of stacking boost pedals.

This is my first time making a pedal not from a kit and i thought a boost schematic looks easy enough.

I just want to know how i would go by creating a double boost pedal instead of having like 3 boosts on my board i can just press one pedal and get the sounds of 2 boosts.

I have ideas on stuff i could do to achieve it but I do not have a mind for this kind of stuff and don’t know if it’s efficient

could I make one circuit with just 2 boosts schematics on the pcb?

I want it to be one foot switch with 2 knobs controlling each boost circuit.