I'm brand new, I've only built a couple kits and I'm looking hang with the big boys, I want to start breadboarding and I want to start using strip boards and/or tag boards.

I'm sure there are pros and cons to both, but what is best? What are the pros and cons?

What is easier to find layouts for? This one is big

What's easier to work with?

What takes up less space?

Do pot leads match up with either, can they be mounted directly on the boards?

What question am I NOT thinking of the that I SHOULD be asking?

Any help or suggestions are welcome and thanks for checking out my post :)

Hi everyone! 👋

I’m a mechanical engineering student in British Columbia, Canada! currenty working on a project related to kayak loading systems, and I wanted to gather some feedback from fellow kayakers on how you typically load your kayak. I’m curious about the challenges you face and any thoughts you have on current loading methods. Specifically, I’d love to hear

1. How do you normally load your kayak (alone or with help)?
2. Have you ever used or considered a mechanical loading system?
3. What are the biggest issues you encounter when loading/unloading your kayak (weight, awkward angles, etc.)?
4. If you could design your dream kayak loading system, what features would it have?
5. What price range would you consider reasonable for a kayak loading system?

Your feedback will be super helpful for my project, and I really appreciate any insights you can share! Thanks in advance! 😊

HERE's THE LINK >>>

https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1I2a3N6xNVbcriGP89qLFw30JVBr8l3O2lyw7DDDkPmQ/viewform?edit_requested=true&fbclid=IwY2xjawIKKMNleHRuA2FlbQIxMAABHbgUAFtKnSUHTST-NdXHl0GpujECyriVuQuk5SXhFtQHdDMu4i24jQ29_g_aem_Wiq83nkcLkicdC4DLp-S6w

https://preview.redd.it/cyu92zjnugge1.jpg?width=540&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c2aa63ca48002ebecea55607e727ec26b782d5db

I know there are a ton of posts about pedals being fried by 18v, but weirdly my SY-1 will still work for a minute or two, then it'll sputter out and I need to keep playing for a bit to "wake it back up." Any idea what might have fried, or partially fried, to make it work like this? I would have expected it to just not work at all. Does this mean there might be a crappy solder joint? Capacitor leak? I'm not savvy enough with this yet to know. I tried looking at the board but I couldn't get it fully out. I'm a bit worried about it since it's digital and all the components are super tiny.

Thanks for any potential help! Really bummed about frying this pedal of all things...

Looking for any suggestions of a good sounding reverb kit.

There are a couple I’ve seen but would like some more options.

I made a simple unpowered A/B switch, and I loved the experience. I see what you guys are loving over here. This is so addictive. Oh boy look out!

What are the easiest pedals to make?

Can anyone help me identify this component and possibly a suitable replacement? It looks like a diode—maybe a schottky diode? It’s labeled “MK 52 39B 420” and I can’t seem to find anything online when searching. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you.

i want to make a Fuzz pedal, but i don't know too much about who'd be more easy to make and which pedal would need the least materials to make it sound good.

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Thanks! Goodnight.

View Poll

I've asked a few builders I know and they recommended YOLO'ing here. They don't want the build because they do the inverted polarity design, which is absolute. Degree shifting phase isn't the same as polarity +1 -1 and there are more design elements to take into account.

A visual diagram of what the pedal could look like would be.

https://preview.redd.it/j2ynvfn6efge1.png?width=1025&format=png&auto=webp&s=64359227be7b2afe376c0628303cc30196181fc6

Here's the use cases.

Let's pretend you play in stereo and want a Klon in one channel. Klon flips polarity 180* and can cause phase cancellation. You can put the Klon in the Send/Return loop, isolate it from signal chain, and when you turn the Phase pedal on the pol switch (+ -) can let you flip polarity and adds the Klon to signal chain solving the phase cancellation issues.

Next use case, you're using an FZ1 fuzz and it shifts phase 90 degrees. Turn rotary knob to 90 degree phase shift to complete the phase rotation(180*), check for phase cancellation and flip Pol switch as needed to prevent phase cancellation.

Use case for the Momentary Arcade button is, once the Phase pedal is on, you can take phase correction out of the signal chain and hear the default pedal. This will be helpful for troubleshooting Stereo Chorus pedals, as some sound better in hard L and R panning with a phase adjustment and going back and fourth quickly between the correct/default sounds will help testing. At least a softpress footswitch. Let's also not rule out someone on their bullshit tapping the momentary button as an effect, because why not.

Last case for this pedal is pure YOLO to see if this sort of adjustment can help mitigate DAW phase correction plugins and make the original recording sound more like the end product. No clue if this will actually work and I suspect it will not.

I appreciate your time and consideration. If this is a DOA build, no sweat.

What are the green parts named? I have been soldering breadboard jumper wires to my pots like an idiot!

Ok this is the fourth build where I labeled the fuzz and volume backwards. Damn and I’m so proud of this one. Vero board fuzz face/sun face copy.

Used the film-less water slide paper I learned about on here.

I added instructions to build a minimal Maple Booster (i..e, no led nor switches for bass/mid boost)

https://www.taydakits.com/instructions/maple-booster

Does anyone know of any kits to build one of these? I assume there isn’t one, but is there anywhere I can find a pcb and a list of parts? Or at least some schematics?

One-off I made for a friend. It’s the Zenith PCB from aion (which was HARD) never gettin four transistors to phase ever again 😭

Problem Statement: I have two bands and two different setups. Band 1 I run a single amp, band 2 I run two amps with a stereo pedal chain. This mostly works since it's basically a clean and a dirty amp where I am just removing the distortion and fuzz from the second channel. However, I have a delay pedal that I would like to move onto my "clean" amp so I am not introducing fuzz to it. I also don't want to have to rewire the pedalboard whenever I change setups. I looked at loop switchers and thought about running them non-conventionally (backwards) but it seems they all cut the signal to the inactive loop because why would they not.

My thought was I build a loop switcher basically in reverse. A two-channel loop pedal where the switch just picks which channel the loop exists in while leaving the other channel as True Bypass. I couldn't find this anywhere as a diagram that exists, they all either use the same chain and change the order of the loop or cut the signal to one channel.

I diagramed out something that I think SHOULD work, but it also shouldn't work because I am not smart enough to not mess this up. The other issue is that I can't figure out how to include an LED without needing a 5PDT switch (Which I don't think exists as a stomp switch). Any advice anyone could offer me?

Attached the diagram I drew up in Paint to make the colors easier.

True Bypass Loop Switcher

How can I improve this circuit?

So, I'm kind of new in the world of building pedals, but I'm studying an electronics degree and this is my final project. The idea is the basic circuit of the rat, with switchable EQ between a baxandall and the HM2 EQ section. It also has switchable diodes, switchable boost and you can completely remove the diodes from the circuit with a toggle, tho I'm thinking about changing that to a toggle that can select the position of the diodes between regular (hard clipping) and on the LM308n (soft clipping). Also I want to add an adjustable HPF on the OP AMP filtering so I can have a tighter sound on lower tunings.

I know it may be a bit too much for a first self-designed pedal. but I think I can manage to make it sound acceptable (I already like the sound, but when I add the eq stage it gets a little bit quirky).

One thing that happens is that when I switch between the baxandall and the HM2 eq, it takes some time for the HM2 to get to normal volume, I don´t know if it has something to do with capacitors.

So what I'm asking you is, given that concept and the scheme, how can I improve the design? either in terms of making a more stable circuit or improve what´s already in there. Also there may be some elements that I may completely delete from the design,since I just smashed a couple of circuits so there could be capacitors that don´t do anything or resistors that could be messing the impedance.

I have everything on 4 protoboards so It's getting out of hand but I think I can have something to be proud of.

Just picked this up and the screw for the bias control does absolutely nothing. How would I go about troubleshooting?

Master channel for modular mixer

I have created a number of modules to combine together into a modular mixer. I have two channel modules. They both have effects sends, gain, and volume. One adds a 5-band equalizer. I also have a send and return module. The channel modules work perfectly. The master and send/return modules did not work. I think it's because they lacked a reference voltage before the op-amps. All I have changed with these modules is the addition of R11, R12, R13, and C5 in the power section, the VDD net, and C2 and C4 in the op-amp feedback loop. Should this work as designed? What would you change? TIA!