Tired of having designs look nothing like how they appear on screen, I decided to whip up this colour palette on a 1590dd. The picture does it too much justice as the colours are a lot darker in real life. It’s a handy little tool for future use. For the one or two that may be interested, the link for the pd, I will post below. It contains a white, colour and gloss layer.

My first circuit, a klon buffer. Im in the breadboarding phase before I commit to a pcb. For some reason I get a garbled signal during testing. Someone told me that its "a missbiased amplification stage, not getting adequate power except when the audio signal adds its own voltage level to the mix." What would the solution be? I got my schematic here: pedalpcb.com and followed it to a T (or so I thought). Components were ordered from stompboxparts.com. Any tips/pointers?

https://preview.redd.it/h36aqtnnie0e1.png?width=3248&format=png&auto=webp&s=427ac16743301c716f69f81eb67c6ad7f81414ff

Looking for inspiration for my next build and want to make a ridiculous, high gain, wall of sound, fuzz monster.

I've built a gnarly silicon fuzz face and an Acapulco Gold which were both quite hefty. But looking for something really over the top this time. Ideally for stoner/doom music

Any suggestions? Also show off your builds if you've made something that fits this description!

I've seen his germanium pedals marketed as Low, Medium, and High gain, but does anyone know exactly what those are? Is his Low gain like 20-40hFE? 50-70hFE? 20-70hFE? Medium? High?

Just curious if anyone knows from an old forum post or something. I've tried to search, but I guess my searches were too vague and I just got generic stuff about the pedals and not anything specific.

Im thinking of the black ”crackle” over the top of the base colour. Doesn’t need to be a multi colour base.

Photos of the boards in question.

I recently bought a big cardboard box full of components that included, among a ton of other stuff, two Moogerfooger MF101 Low Pass Filter boards that appear to be entirely or mostly entirely complete. I'm wondering if anyone here can help me with a few questions I have about them.

As far as I can tell, the only places I see missing components are the small jumper connections on the back of the board (see photos). Is anyone familiar enough with these things to know what those connections are for, or if they're just some sort of diagnostic thing or something? I haven't encountered them on the handful of other pedals I've taken apart.

My other question is about producing enclosures for them. I've done some pretty haphazard drilling for my own diy pedals before, but I don't own a drill press and I don't know how I'd go about cutting slots for the switches, either.

I know that Tayda does custom enclosures, but I don't know how to make a precise enough drill template to use with the board mounted pots on them. I could move the pots off the board to give myself some more wiggle room, but I would rather avoid that if possible. Does anyone have any advice on how to go about ordering enclosures for these things, or words of encouragement if I decide to try to DIY it?

Hi, I've made the sproing reverb (j rockett - boing) and I like it a lot but I feel there's a little volume drop. I searched on different forums and it seems that is a normal thing on the original so I was wondering if maybe there's some mod I can make it to solve it. Thank you.

I want to make my own DI box / interface with a specific preamp built in for saturation. With my current interface I'm using a pair of stereo 1/4 outputs to connect to a headphone amplifier. If I wanted to run audio from my PC, to the DI box for saturation, out again and back into the DI box to have the saturated version of my audio on my computer. Should I have 2 stereo L+R pairs of 1/4 outputs on the back of the DI box? I assume I can output to my headphone amp and also output audio from my pc for saturation at the same time. Should I also have 2 L+R pairs of 1/4 inputs as well? An XLR input on the back wouldn't be needed either right if I'm already having the 1/4 inputs and outputs on it? Sorry for my naivety, I'm still learning and really appreciate any help!

Preferably around 50w

Hi All, I’m still a bit new to reading and understanding schematics, and am embarrassed to admit that when I look at something as simple as the RG Keen transistor tester, I get confused.

Can anyone post a pic of theirs? I have all the components…there’s something about how things flow that I haven’t wrapped My head around quite yet. Thanks

No output, all the solder joints have continuity, I’m getting 4 volts across the 4558 across pin 1 and 8, 9volts across 4 and 8. and I’m getting .7 volts across the emitter and base of the transistors, the red LEDs do flash on when I plug it in to power as well.

I’ve seen, like I’m sure you all have, pedals that have unusual control labels. There are silly ones for silly builds and ones that are maybe “buzz word” like. For instance, a drive pedal usually has level, drive and tone but some builds might change this up but have the same controls.

So what’s your opinion? Should pedals adopt new control labels that better suite the theme of the pedal? Or is it just marketing BS to switch it up?

So I've found it pretty easy to find schematics for pedals from companies like Boss and EHX, but I've been struggling to find ones from companies like Chase Bliss and Red Panda. The more unique pedals seem to be harder to find, like glitch, granular and creative distortion. If anyone could provide me with schematics, or somewhere to find schematics for pedals like these, it would be very much appreciated.

I noticed sansamps pedals (especially the bass stuff)doesn't get cloned nearly as much as other pedals..was just wondering if theirs any reason behind this ?,,like certain parts, sansamp secret sauce?? I know theirs a hand full of them but they are major building companies,not like single people building them in their carport type of thing..any whoo just curious.tjx ..p.e.a.c.e!

Hey all, I need some help with a Tayda UV printing workflow. I have a drill template that I have verified works with my PCB design. Now, I need to figure out if I can export this drill template as something I can import into Adobe Illustrator so I can make sure my design doesn’t go in any of the holes drilled in the enclosure. Is there a way to do this? I am very new to Tayda enclosure services, so I need a hand. Please let me know if this is possible. Thanks!

Hi All,

I'm interesting in trying to build a klon type of circuit. I have seen schematics for the KTR, but they still use the 1N34A diodes, which don't exist anymore.

I read that the KTR v2 has a different diode, as well as some changes to compensate for the change.

Is there a schematic out there that shows these changes, or is this a closely guarded secret?

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So I've got myself an MXR CC and I want to install a wet-only switch into the face of it... but I am SO scared that I'll ruin the pedal in an impulsive second. The guts are airtight on the inside, components all around. the only viable placement is in the top-right corner (as you are looking at the controls). But there's a cap standing upright and in the way. If I drill a mm to the left too farm, then the switch is obstructing the board from sitting back inside correctly. Too far to the right and then the body of the switch will bump into the wall of the housing.

The modification of the board will be easy enough, if a little nervy to remove the SMD from, again, a very very tightly packed board. It all comes down to me not borking the housing. Any tips? 🥂