/r/sewing
Sewing for everybody and every body.
This is a community specifically for the hobby of sewing including, but not limited to: machine sewing, hand sewing, embroidery, quilting, mending, garment sewing, fitting/alterations and help/suggestion threads.
Global Fabric Store Map Project - WIP
/r/sewing is a community specifically for the hobby of sewing including, but not limited to: machine sewing, embroidery, quilting, hand sewing, tapestry, patchwork, and help/suggestions threads.
- All project-type posts must be flaired Project.
- All posts flaired Project must include a top-level detailed construction comment.
- No Selling, Promotion or Spam
- Be Nice, Don't be a Jerk
- No flooding posts or comments
- Photos should focus on sewing
- Special Reasoning
More information is available in the subreddit wiki.
- Reading the wiki before asking common questions
- Asking Specific Questions about Sewing Techniques
- Pattern Help
- Posting CLEAR PHOTOS of your work
- Constructive Criticism
These subs are randomly rotated every hour from our Sewing Related Multireddit
/r/sewing
I’m looking for an organizer for my buttons, to hold from little shirt buttons to coat buttons. On Amazon I see organizers for beads but I think they may be a little too shallow for buttons. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thank you!
This was a pattern for woven fabrics and I’ve made it from this nice heavy ponte and as it is it’s a perfect pull-on skirt. The yoke facing would have been stitched down inside but I am trying to figure out how to do that while retaining the stretch I need to get it on. I’ve stitched in the ditch at the back and side seams but I am drawing a blank for the front. It sits fine on the form but as you can imagine it just rolls and gets ugly in actual wearing. The seams are serged but would a shallow zig zag tacking what there is of the seam allowance to the facing still allow for stretch?
I'm working on a roughly 50 liter pack that will mount to an external pack frame that I'm also building. I don't have much sewing experience, so I decided to halve all of the dimensions and make a 1/8 scale model.
It's not perfect, but the final pack will be dark purple(which will hide my sloppy work) and will include some bias tape to clean things up. I'm still debating on whether I'm going to wax the bag or just use a pack cover for rain. Hoping to have the final project ready for some spring camping :)
I basically just opened the legs on the stitches on the inside, grafted some fabric from the bottom of the legs to widen the bottom of the dress (the triangle in the front) and sewed the legs back together.
I added some belt loops and I added a slit on the left side to provide more freedom of movement.
The fabric is flame retardant, densely woven, rip-stop 65% Cotton, 35% Polyester. It's non-stretch so I had to add the slit. All fabric comes from the original pair of pants.
It's my first time doing such a big thing and for about one and a half days of work, planning with pins and adjusting and redoing, I'm pretty happy with the results.
I'm making the Green Bean Baby set zipper sleeper. This means my front will be made of 2 separate pieces. According to the pattern, I should cut along line M (where im pointing in the pic). But I'm confused, do I cut both sides of the front along line M? Don't I need extra seam allowance for each side? Or does the zipper itself make up the distance?
I'm not actually cutting the pattern but tracing it off, but I hope you get my point. I've made 2 zipper sleepers before but used a different pattern that was a little easier to follow.
Any help appreciated! I don't want to cut this and then have 1 leg be 1/2" narrower than the other lol
Hoping to get some technical sewing advice! I want to lengthen the skirt on a dress I already cut and sewed (McCall 7116 view B). The skirt is bias cut on a cotton/linen woven fabric. Solid color, no pattern.
I was thinking about adding a tier to the bottom of the skirt to bring it down to midi length. Does the new tier need to be on the bias? Will a tier negatively affect the drape?
Hi Everyone,
Been sewing a long time and recently decided to take a dive into bag making! I have a Table Press (Kam Snaps) and am looking to do my first bag: the tiny cata from Oro Rosa Patterns. I plan on using webbing for a strap.
I don’t know which rivet dies I should get. I can get an 8 mm or a 10 mm. Kam Snaps claims you can do 9 mm rivet off a 10 mm die.
I can’t afford to buy all the dies so I want to purchase something that makes sense for what I will generally plan to make: bags.
I do not currently have a machine durable enough for leather so anything strong enough for leather isn’t necessary (yet).
What do you think I’ll get more use out of: the 8 mm die or the 10 mm die (for the 9 mm rivet)?
Would it be worth it to buy the double cap remover die?
Thanks in advance for your help!
I'm working on the Simplicity S9291 pattern for a princess seam dress (type A with the gathered skirt. This my first venture into bodice-making.
I am quite ample in the bosom area and a bit of a weird shape generally, and the reviews of this pattern warned that it tends to come up a bit small (even by the sizing chart standards), so I made a rough test bodice out of scrap fabric in the largest size pattern (size 22) as a starting point.
The front of the bodice (neckline and bosom specifically) are perfect. The princess seams sit exactly where I need them to be.
However the rest of it is way too big. The back needs to come down by at least 3 sizes and I have loads of extra fabric gathering under the arms.
Now my question: can I essentially "mix and match" the pattern sizing? E.g keep the bodice front (piece 1) and the bust curve of piece 2 (bodice side front) by following the size 22 line, but then taper to the size 16 line when it comes to under the arm? Then If I do this and make the back pieces (labelled 3 on the pattern) to the size 16 guide, will they still match up with the front pieces ok still?
My worry is that if I simply make smaller size completely, the front of the bodice won't fit as well as it does now.
I have been following the designers old blog as she did a sew-along, which included how to do a full bust adjustment using the "tissue method" but trying to figure it out made my brain hurt, so I'm wondering if my solution could work instead?
What do we think? Is there anything I need to consider or maybe there's an even easier way to make the adjustments I need which my poor little fried brain can't see?
I almost bought brushed cotton bed sheet with my think 240 or so thread count but it costs 4 times as much as all the other similar items and seemed a bit steep for a thrift store. Is brushed cotton a luxury fabric? It did feel really nice and I’m tempted to go back for it.
Hello! I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a free pattern (or an affordable print at home PDF) for a 20s style dress. I need one for a party and I was thinking I could probably just sew a nice one for myself.
I can jazz up a style with embellishments, I'm more looking for an appropriate shape. Something boxy, maybe with a drop waist or some fluttery hems.
Anyone got any ideas? Is there a mood patterns out there that could be modified etc?
Thank you!
I work at my local makerspace and we need some new sewing machines. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions?
We have a budget in the range of 500-1000$ per machine. The machines need to be relatively easy to thread, and use since it will be used to teach people sewing. For the same reason it needs to be able to take a little abuse and be easy to maintain and fix. Our current machines that keep breaking have hand wheels that can't be pulled or pushed to change to bobbin winding mode(Janome HD1000), so I'm hoping to find a machine with the more typical hand wheel that can be used to disengage needle. As a point of personal preference, I would like a machine with a front loading bobbin, but at this point I can't be picky. We cannot buy second hand due to vendor restrictions which means that a lot of the great older options are not viable.
The machines I already have in mind and my thoughts on them are as follows:
I don't know too much about machines, since I never had to buy one and inherited an old Kenmore when I was younger, suggestions are much appreciated!
Hello everyone!
I am lucky enough to be taking a big trip this summer and I will be visiting Chennai, Tokyo, and Kyoto. I thought it would be really cool to experience different fabric markets and go to garment districts in those places to see what I can see and feel inspired! Especially in India, I know I can get fabric for a cheaper price. And in Japan, I know I can get old kimonos, silk, etc for a decent price as well.
But I'm wondering - do y'all know any details about these places and buying fabric there? What would you buy? How much yardage in each fabric if I find a really cool one?
I noticed that a lot of textiles I get from India/Nepal bleed like a MFer, so I am wondering if I will have luck finding colorfast stuff there or if color catchers will help me so I can wash til they stop bleeding.
I like making garments for myself, I am also a quilter. I only use natural fibers because I really dislike plastic-based fabrics (but I will buy rayon and so on because it's a "natural synthetic" in my book).
Thanks for any and all tips!
I saw this video on IG and was super intrigued by this style of dress form. Can't find any reviews on it so I was wondering if anyone here either has this one or a similar one from a different brand and if so what your thoughts on it are? I mainly sew cosplays (aka manipulate my body to various sizes/proportions) and occasionally do commission work for other people so I'm super intrigued about being able to change the boob size/position independently of the rest of the form as well as the height
I would like to add some fun pillows to my living room! Does anyone have any recommendations for fun novelty pillows? Right now I'm considering this letter pillow (https://www.etsy.com/listing/1686947277/letter-pillow-pdf-sewing-tutorial-with?ref=cart) or even this goose (https://www.etsy.com/listing/1748646483/duck-canada-goose-sewing-pattern-goose?ref=cart) from the same Etsy shop. It's not exactly a pillow but would look cute hanging out on the couch.
I'm a little nervous about buying an Etsy pattern tho. Basically if you have a pillow pattern that would be at home in a children's book illustration, send it my way. Thanks!
I want to sew my daughter (15 months old) a parrot costume for carnival based on the cape pattern in the pic. I'm torn between using wool (walkloden) or a french terry for the outer fabric of the cape. I think I'll have to use felt for the appliqué and I don't see a way to make the appliqué removable. It seems like a waste to use good wool just for a costume she'll wear two or three times. On the other hand, the wool would not be drenched immediately if it starts to rain. The wool I'm looking at is priced at about $30/m, the french terry is between $10-15. I could afford it, but I'm wondering if I should. For the lining I'm thinking I'll get a simple jersey. What are your thoughts and experiences?
I have a length of beautiful Harris tweed I purchased and I won't get to making the intended project for quite a while(it's already been over a year). I don't want it to be wrecked by the time I can get to it. It's kept out of light, no damp, and no bugs. But I'm wondering if I'm missing anything. Google is just giving me garment care advice.
I saw something on the internet about folding woven fabric diagonally to prevent warps along the grains. Is this real? Or should I find a long dowel to wrap it around so there's no folding at all.
Thanks
Looking to make my second ever pair of jeans and I’m really interested in making a pair of vintage style wide leg jeans with some raw denim.
Most of the patterns I’ve come across have a more modern fit, with no yoke at the back and a really fitted high waisted style and I’m not really interested in those. Preferably a women’s or unisex pattern please.
Thanks heaps 🥰