So my rear pillars that the backlights screw onto were damaged and I am looking to replace what is left with new ones. Unfortunately, they are shiny while the rest of my galvanized parts are weathered.

Would you try weathering the new ones to match, or clean up the old ones to look equally new?

I have heard of people trying to use acids and bases to remove the coloration of old galvanized parts, and I have certainly seen people leave new parts outside for a year to weather naturally, but I have never seen what works best in practice. I also know some people choose to paint their galv silver but that would be considered a last resort for my truck.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks to get all my galv parts uniform?

Does anyone know if the starter off of a diesel will fit onto the gas 2.25? I recently installed a 9:1 head and the starter just isn’t up to the job.

Dose anyone know if series 3 109 back leaf springs will fit on a series 2A?

Can't find any figures on the internet myabe some of you guys know?

https://preview.redd.it/n2hhdsq8bnsd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dbb38cda6cbf5441cae98cb3706118201b10033d

So... 1973 NA Series III 88 Station wagon base. I've had it since '94. Old project car that hasn't run in 20+ years. It was swapped with a 4.3L Chevy V6 (non-running with old holley projection fuel injection). 700r4 automatic and NP208 transfer case. Narrowed Ford 9" rear, Dana 30 front. 31" Wrangler MT's on centerlines (have 5). Frame is mostly toasted (rust and a lot of missing crossmembers to fit drivetrain). Engine I think has bent rod; never consistently ran. Interior is stock. Seals and window tracks are also bad. Has a 20 gallon composite fuel cell in bed, but still have stock tank too. The other stock bits I sold long ago but have some odds and ends. Clean CO title.

After the botched swap work, won a lawsuit against the builder, but didn't have enough to fix it. One of those I've just told myself 'some day'... With my other toys, that day never came and I'm pretty sure won't ever under my watch. So given how much it'll take to get it going for someone, what would be a fair price to list it under?

https://preview.redd.it/t5q8ho47ensd1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6ec30fff98cdb9f4770a70958ae3c787a1cedcda

The rear springs seem overkill for what i use the Rover for as I'm not hauling around a bed full of bricks. I was just curious if anyone tried this to soften up the ride a little and if so how did it work out?

Would a series having a title with Not Actual Mileage be worth less to you? If you can easily tell the condition of one of our vehicles does the actual miles make a difference?

What do you all think?

I got 31x10.5x15" Cooper evolution MT I still need to adjust the toe, it's in pretty far so it drives really twitchy. The front tires take turns steering. But for the short trip I took on them they seem great.

Hey all, 1971 Series 2A here! I just installed a new master cylinder, shoes and pistons at each wheel. I'm noticing that I have to fully pump the breaks 3 times to get stopping power. I have bled the system multiple times, yet I still don't have any stopping power on the first pump. I'm wondering if it's one of the following things.

1. air still trapped in the brake boost?
2. the return springs on the shoes are too strong and are forcing the pistons at the wheels back into the cylinders?

Ive adjusted the bolt on each wheel to hold the shoes closer to the drums, but, when the wheels are off, I'm noticing the shoes are still pulled way too far back. That's why I'm thinking it's the springs? Unless there's air trapped somewhere which allows the springs to push the fluid back into the lines/reservoir?

No idea how to fix this! Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Always try to bring her to site when it’s nice out. I’m still yet to have to put her in 4x4, yet my F150 often needs to go in to it.

Hope this will work.