Hello community, I am the proud owner of a 73 series 3 with original rims and am thinking of putting 235/85r16 tires on it. What do you guys think or does anyone have experience with other tires? The car is in Turkey and there are hardly any 7.5x16 off-road tires on the Turkish market.

New series 1 owner here only had it a day.

First issue was I was playing with the switches the old owner installed and it turns out 2 hours later that one was for the fuel pump.

Second issue or might not be

The green light stays on after it’s been turned off. And I can’t figure out why it won’t go off. It goes off when the engine is running.

Hello,

Does anybody have a clue what the roof from a Series IIa 88' meight weight? I want to make something in my garage so I can lift the roof of the car and drive away.

Many thanks,

Alex.

Hi there,

I’m going to be repainting the original wheels on my Land Rover for a more heritage look. I think Ivory White is the classic colour, but looking through various websites there are many Land Rover shades; Ivory, Limestone, Alaska, Fuji, Alpine, Chamonix, Chawton, the list goes on.

Before I buy the paint, I want to check as I may as well do this correctly the first time… what colour were the wheels as they came out of the factory?

Any help much appreciated, thank you.

I’m trying to better my (beginner) understanding of timing and have a few things I’ve been wondering about – specifically around the different readings I get between static timing vs timing gun timing, mechanical advance and vacuum advance

For reference, I have a 1974 Series 3 Land Rover, original 2.25l petrol engine, weber 34 carb, type 45D Lucas distributor (has mechanical and vacuum advances), Gigatech electronic ignition (it replaces the condenser but still uses the traditional points as timing)

Timing should now be set at 6º BTDC as per manual (with electronic ignition it’s recommended to add a 2º or 3º advance on top of 6º BTDC)

I can set static timing easily:

• points gap has already been checked and set
• rotate the engine by hand and align the notch on the pulley with the 6º BTDC peg, on the compression stroke of cylinder 1
• rotate the distributor housing until the points open
• static timing is now set 

Now I want to fine tune it with a timing light gun

• again, distributor points has already been set
• I also reset the carb mixture screw and idle screw(not sure if its necessary but I did it because it was running rich. mix screw completely in, then 2,5 rotations out)) 
• disconnect and block off vacuum advance from distributor
• bring engine up to operating temp
• connect timing light to battery and cylinder 1 HT lead
• point the gun at the notch and peg
• Confusion begins....

Now the reading i’m getting on the timing light when the engine is running seems faster than 9º BTDC, by quite a few degrees. Why would it be faster? Is this the mechanical advance kicking in at idle speed? If I increase the revs by opening the throttle it seems to advance even more by a lot.  If I rotate the distributor housing to align the notch to 8º BTDC it’s very different from static timing.

Why is there such a difference? What am I measuring when I see that much advance during idle?

Would appreciate any insights

'73 S3

After 5 years, the effort to bring the ‘57 Series I back to life is nearly completed, as are 34 YouTube episodes documenting the sometimes chaotic, often frustrating, always exciting journey.

https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjptJWaJAImLH02UwrXA9B1jiaX2we-Hy&si=ViWybS2rtRlVEm5P

My ‘66 Series 2a got modified in the mid-90s, not heavily but in some ways that make it difficult to find parts and definitely detracts from originality.

The 2.25 petrol was pulled in favor of a later Defender 2.5 petrol, which did away with the solid throttle linkage for a throttle cable that has broken on me twice in the last two years. The air intake had some… custom… additions to make it work.

The frame was replaced in order to accommodate coil springs, which has also widened the stance, and the front brakes have been converted to disc, rather unfortunately.

The interior was set up with no front middle seat and high back driver/passenger seats, which are okay but not my favorite.

So my question is, in this case or in any other situation where a car has been modified beyond its original form, is it worth it to revert to what made it original?

I have loads, from the first LRO in 87 up to around 2000 ish Also pretty sure I have the first it at least some early LRW, up until it finished,I think,I have a few, Would taking them to an auto jumble work, Would anyone on here because interested? The early ones will be year set only, they are not mint but in good condition, I will dig them out anyway and catalogue them, I need to do something with them at some point, Cheers, I'll be x posting so apo logies if you see it again

Looking for advice from the community, as I want to do a full restoration but lack the skills and time!

Thanks!

So I've been doing work on my father's series 3 and it's been in the shed for 18 years if not more And I found the number plate and looked it up on dvla systems and it says it was first registered a full 10 years after being made? Does this mean that it's ex army or police?

I would like to service the unit as well as locate a parts explosion but there are no identifying details. At least none that I can see. 69 S2A 88” Petrol.

This is a series 3 landrover. And I thought these where for cloth roofs but mine has a white hardroof so any ideas?

1950 80in It came with a 3l straight 6 Rover engine with only 4 pistons and 2 pieces of wood, For £450 It was replaced with a 2l 4 cylinder The wing is white because I hit a gate post, also had to replace the bumper, The bonnet is bare metal because I foolishly decided it would look good, Sold in about 88 because my dad didn't want it sat in his garage because it would take up space for his crap

We came across this car at a dump and ended up buying it for $500, and am now in the process of restoring the car.

https://preview.redd.it/2l7utumt6gic1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0a3fafa8154bcb011026bfe283e8c91e782d651c

https://preview.redd.it/ef01lgjc7gic1.jpg?width=2648&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f250538ded981ca24f82d238686d9ed456abe81f

https://preview.redd.it/lhxtnwad7gic1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b67681dbd1558d384db6cb0a6bdd35107c2fcfa

got incredibly lucky and got a tray for it barely a week later