12000 Litre pond, 4 x 3 x 1, currenty have 8 fish at size 20-30. I am going to add 2 more fish next january size around 50+ just comeout of azukari. I live in tropical country so no winter here, only rain.

My filtration is, I would say premium, the SSA of the filtration system is 3x required of that size. In addition i have bakki shower full with its media. And the pump turn around is at 2-3x per hour.

My aeration is at 1500 liter per hour connected to a dryden aqua.

Last time I tried adding fish, in august, half of my koi died (i had 20, added 2, died 14). Tho admittedly, at that time my filtration is not as good as right now and aerator was non existent.

Any tips on adding new koi?

My Father wants new koi for his pond, but was told that his old fish would die, since they've been isolated 5 years and likely have poor immune systems. Does anyone have a solution? I've heard to start adding 10% fresh pond water per week, wait until I see the slightest fish lethargy, then back off. Does this work? Also, what are the fish diseases that I'm likely dealing with- bacterial, parasitic, viral, herpes? Can I drug incoming fish? Thanks so much for your help!!!

I checked on him at 7am He was alright but 3 hours later he looked like this How do I find out if he is dead I tried fish cpr and no luck

Hi folks,

My pond was attacked by otters a week ago. I couldn't do much immediately as I was overseas. I came back to 5 surviving koi. 4 appeared healthy, but one had both fins torn off and its tail bitten off (attached picture).

I noticed signs of redness around the wound as well as stress marks on the scales, so I put it to sleep.

Today, I noticed another fish, a benigoi that I thought didn't survive, floating rather listlessly on the water. It also had its tail bitten off and fins torn off, but the wound didn't appear very red. I went to scoop it up, thinking it was dead, but it suddenly swam away. My outdoor pond has many crevices and nooks so I can't easily catch this one.

Do you think antibiotic treatments in the water may help or should I drain the pond (40000L) and remove this fish? If there is a decent chance that it could survive it's injuries I would, of course, love that.

This koi has otherwise been behaving normally and is very active.

I am just curious how much you folks spend on an average of your koi?

I see 4-5" for between $25-$50 Cdn 6-9" $75-$150 10-15 $200+

15" $1000+

I bought 4x 4-5" and a couple fry. I would like to get some larger ones but seeing mostly $200+

Thank you in advance to all who reply.

I have a koi/goldfish tank on my enclosed front porch. The porch is not heated and i unfortunately don't have heaters right now. Will they be ok through the winter as long as the water doesn't freeze?

Note: there are only 3 koi and 2 goldfish in the tank now

Are they any good? I want to get some high quality koi and I want to make sure they are good.

Hi all, I have just moved into a new house that has a koi pond with plants, koi fish, snails etc.

I have only ever had fish tanks before, am I required to scrub and clean this pond occasionally? And if so how often should I clean the filter and tank? Generally any advice on pond care would be appreciated. Thanks.

If your koi is sick or injured, setting up a proper quarantine tank and following these steps can help stabilize the fish while you seek further advice from our community members or aquatic health professionals.

Here's a short guide to assist you:

1. Setting Up a Quarantine Tank

A quarantine tank is essential for isolating sick or injured koi to prevent the spread of disease and allow for focused treatment.

Tank Requirements

• Size: Minimum 50–100 gallons for most koi. Larger tanks (up to 500 gallons) may be needed for jumbo koi.
• Location: Place the tank at least 3 feet away from the main pond to avoid cross-contamination.
• Cover: Use a net, screen, or acrylic sheet to prevent koi from jumping out.

Equipment Needed

• Filter: Use a biological filter if available, but ensure it is already cycled (6 weeks minimum). If unavailable, use chemical filtration with activated carbon or perform frequent water changes.
• Heater: Maintain water temperature between 74–76°F (23–24°C) for optimal immune function. Use an adjustable heater with a thermostat for precise control.
• Air Pump: Ensure constant aeration with an air pump or spray bar. Position the pump above the tank to prevent backflow in case of power failure.
• Separate Tools: Use dedicated nets, siphons, and cleaning tools to avoid cross-contamination between systems. Sanitize tools after each use with potassium permanganate or diluted bleach (rinse thoroughly).

2. Water Quality Management

Maintaining pristine water conditions is critical for the koi's recovery.

Key Parameters

• Ammonia & Nitrite: Keep levels at 0 ppm using test kits to monitor regularly.
• pH: Maintain a stable pH level between 7.0–8.5; avoid sudden fluctuations.
• Salinity: Add non-iodized aquarium salt (e.g., rock salt or water softener salt without additives) to achieve 0.3–0.6% salinity (3–6 lbs per 100 gallons). Pre-dissolve salt before adding it to the tank to avoid harming the fish.

Water Changes

• Perform partial water changes (25%) every 2–3 days if no filter is present or if ammonia/nitrite levels rise.
• Dechlorinate tap water using products like Seachem Prime if necessary.
• Match the replacement water temperature closely to avoid shocking the fish.

3. Observation and Treatment

Observation Period

• Quarantine new koi for at least 3–6 weeks before introducing them to your pond.
• Monitor behavior, appetite, and physical signs such as redness, ulcers, flashing (rubbing against surfaces), or erratic swimming.

Treatment Options

Salt Bath:

• Salt reduces stress and promotes healing by improving the slime coat and fighting infections:
• Prepare a separate container with a higher salt concentration (1–3% salinity).
• Place the koi in this bath for 5–10 minutes under supervision; remove immediately if signs of distress occur.

Medications:

• For bacterial infections: Use topical treatments like Tricide-Neo or antibacterial dips as directed by product instructions.
• For parasites: Apply treatments like Koi Fuke-M, or Prazi (praziquantel) for flukes or Ich-X for protozoan parasites after identifying symptoms.

Always follow dosage instructions carefully and avoid overmedicating.

Aeration Assistance:

If koi are gasping at the surface due to low oxygen levels, gently move them back and forth in the water to help oxygenate their gills.

4. Feeding During Recovery

• Avoid feeding initially (24–48 hours) to reduce waste buildup in the tank while monitoring water quality.
• Once stable, feed sparingly with easily digestible food like Manda Fu or wheat germ pellets.
• Remove uneaten food promptly to maintain water quality.

5. Long-Term Considerations

Main Pond Maintenance

• The root cause of illness often stems from poor water quality or filtration in the main pond:
• Test pond parameters regularly (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH).
• Improve filtration by adding bio-media or upgrading your system if needed.
• Consider salting the pond at 0.3% salinity if plants are not present (salt can harm aquatic plants).

Preventative Measures

• Always quarantine new fish for 3–6 weeks before introducing them into your pond system.
• Avoid using shared equipment between ponds and quarantine tanks unless sanitized thoroughly.
• Regularly inspect your pond's ecosystem for signs of stressors such as overcrowding, algae blooms, or debris buildup.

By following these steps, you can provide immediate care for your koi while addressing underlying issues in your pond system. Stay calm and proactive—your efforts will give your fish the best chance of recovery!

The title says it all, it seems there is a void of koi dealers in Canada compared to US and UK (my YouTube based comparables) via multiple Google searches. Now there are some but often the sites have not been updated for a few years.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have a 6,000 gallon koi pond that's going into its third winter now. When I first built it, I put half a dozen very small baby koi in, and they promptly disappeared. A friend with a pond told me they'd "obviously" been eaten by predators, and I was going to have to content myself with keeping goldfish in my pond instead of koi. Disappointed, I went out and got a dozen "feeder" comet goldfish from the pet store, figuring it would be better than nothing.

It turns out my koi were just hiding in the rocks until they got confident in their new home, and they came out of hiding about a week later. So then I had six koi and a dozen goldfish. Now, three years later, the fish are all still there, but the goldfish have gotten busy! They spawn at least once a year, and the original dozen has expanded to forty or fifty. Next spring, I expect that population growth to expand again.

As much as I love the goldfish, I can't have a hundred of them in my pond. They're already pushing the capacity of the pond. But I don't know what to do with them. I don't feel right chucking them on the bank or otherwise euthanizing them, and they're terribly invasive, so I'm not going to release them in a local lake.

So what can I do? My wife suggested putting an ad on Facebook Marketplace to give them away for free, but I suspect that's going to be a lot of trouble, because I'll have to deal with a whole lot of people to give away that many goldfish. I thought about seeing if some pet store wanted them, but I am willing to bet they have contracts with suppliers and aren't going to be interested in taking goldfish from some random pond owner. Is there any solution that doesn't involve scooping a few dozen goldfish out of the pond and euthanizing them somehow?

I'm looking to build a proper koi pond next year and am still undecided about whether to go with fibreglass or box weld liner. I live in London and am considering using this company https://www.thatpondguy.co.uk/our-pond-care-services/pond-fibreglassing/  to help build my pond and also fibreglass it. Is fibreglass worth the extra cost?