I recently moved and in my new garage part of my squat rack is about 9" too long. It comes in contact with the garage door rail and for now you can see I just straddled the track with the upright. This isn't ideal because it gets in the way of my crossmember and shelves so how would you recommend I trim the rail and rescuer the mounting bracket. I'll grab another angle of the rail when im home. Thanks in advance.

https://preview.redd.it/gsuy3bb9pj1e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=594433bbf7bc4f8fa6f53e055ebf9b975cd25982

Is there a product which I could use to fill in these recessed “troughs” of my garage floor (ideally they would be close to flush with the rest of the floor)? I know they are there by design to provide a location for cracking. They are also proving to be a slight trip hazard. Any ideas?

Might buy a few for the new garage at this price.

LOWES CRAFTSMAN 2000 Series 52-in W x 37.5-in H 10-Drawer Steel Rolling Tool Cabinet (Red) for $399 or the 41" for $339.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-CFT-52-IN-10-Drwr-Cabinet-Red/5002904163

Not a great picture, but hopefully good enough to highlight the unsightly gap between my garage floor and the walls. From what I've found online, it sounds like my best bet would be to get some PVC or similar molding (I've seen the name azek come up) to use as baseboards around the bottom of the walls. I'm planning on skim coating the walls, and while I'm at it figured I might as well put a metal bead along the bottom. Two things I'm still unsure of:

1. Should I attach the molding to be flush with the wall (attached to the concrete) or the same way as other trim (attached to the wall)? The gap is big enough to where either is feasible, I just don't know if there's a "best practice"...or code for that matter.

2. Do I need to do anything to the surface of the bare concrete wall before I cover it? It's a townhouse garage with people on either side, so theoretically there isn't going to be water leaking through (according to how I think things work). I also recognize I don't actually know how these things work, and I do wash my car in the garage using a rinseless wash (so not a lot of water, but some). I feel like for that reason I should seal it with something, but what I found online didn't point to a specific product so maybe not. I'm not planning to epoxy coat the floor either.

My end goal is to have a finished space to use as a workshop, storage, and car detailing. Moisture will definitely be present, but the most standing water will be whatever snow and ice melts off my car in the winter (not a heated garage per se, but heated by virtue of being between other garages).

Also thanks for reading all that, I recognize this isn't a typical subreddit post, so I am extra appreciative of any help.

Need advice ... Whats best for me to do to my garage. Floor is beat up so thinking of using floor tiles. but also want to do something to walls. What suggestion do folks have for walls? Garage is very narrow so has to not be too thick. It's an outdoor garage that is detached in cold climate. Don't mind moving electrical but curious as what's best given the uneven joint to the ground

https://imgur.com/a/dhKKFbW

Thanks

Trying to fit these LT tires, 34.5” diameter 11.5” wide and 95lbs each and just won’t fit. Even if I remove the back crossbar it likely won’t fit in.

Any other tire rack options to replace the existing? I have my electric hoist setup and would rather keep it similar. Any good heavy duty that can take a 35” tire and weight? Most are rated 400lbs that’s pretty close to the limit (380lbs all of them), I think maybe cutting it close. Any ideas? Thanks!🙏

Hi all, My house is approximately 30 years old and the garage floor has significant pitting and deep cracks ( > 1 inch deep) I got a couple of quotes for polyspartic . Both companies said they can repair the cracks.

But I am just a bit concerned if the cracks are too deep to fix in spite of what they say ? They don’t warranty against cracks recurring , the cracks were there when I bought it 8 years ago but I think they have gotten worse. Since the house is 30 years old , any settling should have happened, right?

Has anyone done poly on floors with deep cracks? Pic attached- its like this in a couple of places. There are more cracks but not as wide .

In the process of starting a new house build. Will have a 1000 square foot attached garage. 2 car with tandem bay for the third. Will have floor drains as well as hot and cold water. Want to be able to use a pressure washer for washing undercarriages with a likely 4 post lift. Also do hobby welding, painting etc. what are the best options for ventilation to control moisture and smoke?

Green line will be the front of the garage with a 18’ wide door. Hoping for 10’ high but waiting to hear back if I can go that high

I’m not sure if this is the place for this question, I apologise in advance.

Lately, my garage door has stopped receiving any type of signal from a remote. I’ve checked the sensors near the door, those don’t seem to be the problem. The garage opens only by pressing the button. I tried resetting the unit by holding the learn button for 7 seconds, but that didn’t seem to work. Even with a new remote, the garage doesn’t seem to be receiving any type of at all.

Just built these cabinets, still have to make doors for them etc but trying to decide on stain color, then poly over it. Was thinking black to match the fridge but think that might show too much dust . What do you guys think ?

Looking for recommendation for garage doors for a 3 car garage. House from 90’s. Transitional design. Brown stucco. Flat concrete roof. Live in Bay Area.

Where would you suggest to get the door/installers from? Costco, HoneDepot, etc?

Garage ceiling is about 12”. Thinking about using high lift tracks and Chamberlain wall mount openers. Anything to be cautious about?

Looking to get floor tiles but with the amount of water that can come in the garage with car would all drain. Now that water draining to the concrete, will there be opportunity for the floor to dry up or would I get mold or something?

Hi there,

Im in the market for a 27-ish inch, 5 to 7 drawer, rolling tool cabinet. Ive looked at the standard husky, kobalt, craftsmen, etc items. But would like something a bit sturdier.

To that end, something 18 gauge or better. So far Ive landed on Homack RS Pro and PROTO lines.

I don’t want to spend 3k on a Snap On; price ideally up to 1.5k.

Would any one else have suggestions as far as additional brands to consider?

Even if I get a 4x4 it’s a nominal size of 3.5” and I’d really like to avoid buying a bunch of wood and cutting it down to size just to screw it into the wall. Any thoughts?

I know the consensus here is to hire someone to epoxy the floor, but I want to ask anyway in case it's different for new pads? My pad was poured 4 weeks ago and the detached garage is now complete. I want to do some kind of floor treatment before I move all my stuff back in, and diy epoxy seems like the easiest and cheapest solution.

My questions are:

-Does a new (4 weeks old), unused pad need any prep prior to epoxy?

-Is there a preferable DIY epoxy brand?

-Is my pad cured enough to epoxy?

-Any tips/tricks for applying it?

-If you have strong opinions against DIY epoxy in my case, why?

Thanks!