Can I just run a bigger lag at a diagonal? Or do I need an add a board and bolt to the board?

Anyone ever add a backup battery to a Liftmaster P3? About a year and a half ago for whatever reason the logic board in our opener went bad. Replaced it but I was sent a Chamberlain logic board I believe. Everything fit and worked as normal. However whenever the power goes out the door limits get wiped out and have to be reset. Not a big deal but we usually don’t find this until we are leaving the house for something. Came home to find it up this morning after my wife had left for work. I’m assuming I could replace the logic board again but would have to make sure it was the Liftmaster version. My other thought is to add a battery backup like is used for computers and plug the opener into that to keep the limits from constantly being reset. Ideas?

I have the red learn button craftsman door. Every time I program one remote, it overrides the other. Do I need to program them at the same time in the same learn cycle or what?

I have two 455 garage door opener, but one turns off the opener light 10 seconds after the door opens or closes. The other unit keeps the light on several minutes. I can't find an adjustment on either unit. Any idea how to fix the "quick" unit?

My Chamberlain HD900 motor unit stopped working. Bad timing as I've had several expensive home & car repairs recently. I'm hoping I can just replace the opener at this time to save some money. My neighbor offered to sell me a new extra LM 84505R (no rail) he has.

I have a 7' door, so looked at buying the LM G2777 7' Rail Assembly but read the install length is 127". I only have room for a 108" rail because of a poorly designed drop ceiling (with HVAC & electrical) running through the garage.

#1) Can I buy the 7' Door Belt 041A5434-11A and install it on my existing Chamberlain rail/set-up?

#2) If yes, do I need to change any other Chamberlain parts out?

#3) If no, does LM offer rails other than the complete Rail Assemblies? Meaning is there a way to build a rail assembly using the parts listed under "Rail Assembly Parts Model 84505R" in the Manual? There, LM list the rail as "One-Piece Rail 7' 2777BD". Searching for 2777BD leads me to Rail Assembly G2777 so it seems like there's no way to buy just a rail.

Thanks for any help offered.

My garage door opening suddenly stopped working. I tried to change the capacitor with no change. I am open to replacing the whole unit, but don't know how to match the existing model to a new model. Any help on finding a corresponding capacitor would also be helpful. I cant seem to find the right one.

For the uninitiated, Google Ads works by targeting keywords—specific search phrases that users type into Google. If you set “garage door repair” as a keyword, your ad appears when someone searches for it.

But what happens when your competitors bid on your brand name?

Just like your ads appear for industry keywords, competitors' ads can be served to people searching for your business—say, “Bob’s Badass Garage Doors”—effectively stealing potential customers, new or existing.

And it works—most (some)* people don’t think twice. They click the first result they see, assuming Google is showing them the business they were looking for.

So what can you do? Well, that depends on trademark (or service mark) and whether you have one.

Trademarks and Google Ads: What You Can (and Can’t) Do

If your brand is trademarked, competitors cannot use your name in their ad copy, and you can report violations to Google. Sometimes, Google’s system automatically flags and removes violations, but it’s best to proactively monitor your search terms and enforce trademark protections when necessary.

However, even with a trademark, competitors can still bid on your name as a keyword and appear in search results.

If your brand isn’t trademarked, competitors can legally use your brand name in their ad copy—whether it’s:

• “Forget Bob’s Badass Garage Doors | Choose Rob's Instead.”
• “We Are Bob’s Badass Garage Doors | Call Now” (even though regardless of trademark, Google does not like misrepresentation, this example can still be tough to fight)

In reality, branding is often worked in subtly to avoid outright deception, especially if your company name is rather generic.

This is exactly what happened when we acquired "(City) Garage Door"—a 40-year-old company with strong local name recognition but no registered trademark.

Competitors were bidding on our brand name, siphoning traffic from customers searching specifically for us. And worst of all? It was the big guys—A1, Precision, whoever—burying us in paid search results.

How We Fought Back—And Won. Sort of.

"(City) Garage Door" is legitimately describing any garage door company in the area, and there's been no trademark ever filed. Fine. But we have distinguishing characteristics.

We made one simple but unexpectedly effective change:
We added “The Original Since 1968” in our second ad headline.

Paid traffic boomed as we directed the right people to the right company.

The Takeaways

• Google yourself on desktop and on mobile. Which competitors appear in sponsored results? Is their ad copy misleading? (Desktop and mobile can yield different results and formats of ads).
• No Trademark? Get in touch with an IP (Intellectual Property) lawyer. Learn about the protections trademarks offer and whether you are eligible. For example, having a generic name like "(City) Garage Door" may impede on being awarded a trademark.
• No trademark? Leverage copy. Use ad copy that reinforces your legitimacy or shuts down competitors.
• Trademark or not, reach out directly. Sometimes competitors don't realize they're stepping on your toes. I have accidentally advertised as competitor brand names simply by having a dynamically inserted keyword in my copy. The competitor saw and called us directly and we took it down, no questions asked. Some people are dicks, but most aren't.
• Bid on (protect) your own brand. By default, I recommend having a separate branded campaign so as not to skew costs of acquiring new customers. These campaigns are typically cost-effective due to naturally-high ad ranks, so they'll drive down your cost per lead when they shouldn't really be attributed the same.

At the end of the day, keep an eye on your brand and don't ever give up your own market share.

Note: Even if a competitor is not bidding on your brand name specifically, if they're targeting a more generic keyword such as "garage doors," their ads can still show for "bob's badass garage doors." Just because they show up in your branded search does NOT necessarily mean they are targeting your brand. Still, it's worth looking at who's doing what when your brand is entered into a search.

Additional Note: On mobile, check if they’re running call-only ads—these can be especially deceptive since the clickable phone number is the primary focus (on Google search results page), with business details secondary. Users searching for “XYZ Garage Door phone number**”** may end up calling the wrong company without realizing it.

Let me know if you have any questions. Happy to expand on anything.

I have a new house that was built 4 years ago and have had nothing but problems with my Liftmaster garage door opener (including 2 motherboards replaced, one wall unit, 4 technician visits, many hours talking to liftmaster techs and $700). I will never own a house with a Liftmaster EVER again. The quality of the product is terrible and the phone technicians are not able to problem solve just want you to buy replacement parts. Today twice hung up on me and the third one told me that he wasn't able to help me.

So lately my garage has been acting up, few weeks ago it would open all the way but get stuck closing then revert back to the fully open position. Saw that the chain was sagging so I tightened it up to where the chain has enough play but wasn’t drooping a lot like before (chain was sagging below the rail the trolley slides). Then on Weds tried to open the garage and the trolley will move about a foot to open>back down to close>move to open a foot>then close. I looked up some videos and determined it was the RPM sensor so I pulled the cover off inspected the RPM sensor board and everything looked good aside from some grease so I sprayed it with MAF cleaner, wiped it down, and blew it off with compressed air, put it back in and so far so good? I did have to adjust the open/closing speed to just below max, and the KG setting for open/closing is now set to 9kg each, up from the 5kg it’s been set to for the past idk like 6 years (door doesn’t open anywhere between 5kg-7kg, haven’t tested if 8kg opens/closes it yet)

I manually opened the door cause i originally thought it was the track but it slides along the track fine, no binding anywhere.

Is there anything i’m missing? Should i just get a whole new RPM sensor? Replace the Motor if it’s working harder to lift the door open?

Hey guys, I just finish to install à new Chamberlain opener /belt drive. The problem is that is really really slow, I double verified and everything looks ok(my old opener was working perfectly). Spring/torsion/balance..etc. I have a error code 4-1 Excessive opening force detected. If I release the door from the rail and try to move the motor with no door attached I havé the same message /same error and is so slow that barely moves and sometime it stops, looks like the motor is working on the backup battery and there is no more battery left. What problem could it be? Thanks

Installed these 2 today. I believe the boss said they were 2” CHI with Eden coast overlay. Doors were like 3.5 thick. Beeefy.

Hey all, I have a weird issue. So if I’m using my garage door opener (either the one in the garage or my car) and I open my garage door halfway, 25%, 83%, etc and then push the button again it closes fine. If I use the garage door opener and let it open fully, it won’t close. I have to go to my breaker box, cut the power to my garage, wait about 30 seconds, cut on power, then push the button and it closes. I’ve checked my emergency release switch and it’s not flipped (so I can’t open it manually) I have a single bar in the middle, that’s where the chain that opens and closes my garage door is. I checked it and nothing is loose, nothing is catching the chain. I’m assuming this is an electrical problem since resetting the power fixes it, this is my first experience with garages though so I’m a little lost on how to proceed with fixing it. My garage door opener or maybe motor? Is a “Model 2024 Genie® Professional Line” sorry for the long post I wanted to include as much detail as possible. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Hello,

I bought a 40+ year old home with screw drive garage openers. The openers are likely original to the home and work fine at the moment, but they cosmetically look like they are in poor condition, so I'm concerned about their longevity. Also, from a practical standpoint, I am not thrilled at their lack of smart features since I won't be able to control them from Alexa or let Amazon delivery drivers use my garage to place packages. I want to replace them with something more modern, but it looks like all screw drive openers are discontinued from every brand. From my limited research and experience with these, belt drive openers might be a good, quiet option to replace them. However, I am unsure if I can reuse the housing the screw drive runs in (I kinda doubt it, but I figured I'd ask) and drop in a belt drive opener. What does this community recommend as a replacement? I have a three-car garage with a two-car panel operated by a 1/2 horsepower screw drive opener and a one-car panel operated by a 1/3 horsepower opener.

Hey all. Curious to hear your feedback on this.

My garage door was installed five years ago but it’s working perfectly. I had a company come out to service it and make sure it can continue running smoothly.

The tech had been here for about 10 minutes when he had me come out to say when he went to adjust the spring, the spring broke. He claimed the spring was wound several times too many and that had never happened to him before.

I assumed the spring was at the end of its life but I’m frustrated that my goal in having a tech come out was to increase its life and now we’re dealing with an expensive repair.

What would be your course of action? Any feedback would be appreciated!

View Poll

Hello everyone. I have some questions about a garage I am building and want to make sure everything will be okay.

My plans call for two doors. A standard 8'X 7' door and a 20'X10' door. Both doors are already on site and paid for.

My framer made the rough in opening 8 X 7 and 20'1"X10'

I am out in Arizona where we use stucco over lathe. That typically adds about 1.5" of thickness. The large garage door will overlap about 1" on each side and the small door about 1.5" on each side.

Is this going to be a problem or is okay for the door to be a tad oversized? The framer says its perfectly fine but I just want to double check.

Thanks!

I have a 1 car garage door without a garage door opener. It was definitely loud rolling up and down so based on a couple video reviews I replaced the rollers with nylon rollers from Amazon. I did not touch the cable, in order to replace the bottom roller, I disconnected a piece of track, pulled the roller, and replaced the roller and then put the track back. I didn’t bend any of the track, I just moved a section out of the way where the pieces meet up.

Now when I put the door up, it just slides right back down. How can I determine why it’s no longer staying up. I’d like to think the new rollers are smoother, but they shouldn’t be this much of a difference that the door will not stay up.

This happens randomly and I usually just flip the circuit breaker off and on and that fixes the problem. Tonight I am getting the 1up 1down error and nothing will fix it. The green and yellow sensor lights are both solid. Any ideas? My door is stuck in the open position.

i’m trying to fix my dads garage(liftmaster, no idea what the model is, all i know it says security + 2.0)and the door will either open maybe an inch or 2 feet. when i look at the control area the up arrow blinks orange 4 times, and the down arrow blinks orange 2 times. i’ve tried fixing the sensor alignment but nothing seems to change. the left side stays green and the left status orange/amber. anyone know what else i could try?