/r/Workbenches
Workbenches!
The workbench can tell people a lot about you. It shows what you are working on, how far its progress is, and your passion for whatever you do.
Any type of workbench is allowed here, from biology workbenches to electronics workbenches.
A workbench is NOT a battlestation. If your workbench is only comprised of computers, it is not a workbench and is instead a computer "battlestation" and /r/battlestations would be happy to see it.
If you're asking a question or starting a discussion you need to make a "self" or text post.
Some other places that use workbenches:
/r/Workbenches
Building a workbench in my new garage. Its 4,8 metres long and built in place. Missing a few supports then its ready for the top. Oh...and a little bit of painting before i put the top on...
I was thinking to cover the top with 1,5" x 8", what you think?
i'm about 6'4. the bench i plan on bulding is of a custom design i made in fusion 360. as of now it's 27in tall, plus about 5in because i'm adding locking casters to the bottom. so in total, a height of around 32in.
the thing is, i'll be using this bench for all sorts of things. sometimes wordworking, mostly power tool but a little bit of hand tool here and there. sometimes assembling/fixing things. maybe a bit of electronics work. maybe (very) mild metalworking. really just anything.
so what do we think for 32? too tall? too short?
here's the design. 26in wide, 6ft long. shown here it is 27in tall, and then i'll have the 5in tall casters as well.
I think it is the right model for the type of tail vise I want to build, as it allows me to have a movable top without the screw underneath, which allows me to have a gap in the bench for different grips, but it is short. The manufacturer says it has a working length of 165mm, but according to my CAD drawing and the specs I only have 115mm max, and I think that might not be enough.
I need help designing a really long workbench that will end in a corner. I do not want to use plywood. It will be more of a mechanic’s bench than a woodworking one. Any ideas on plans or style?
Giving my bench the once over. I usually wait until January, but I tipped over a little cup of dye and it's all I see. It's still not erased, but better. It was Van Dyke Brown.
Do I make the top of oak and the legs of beech, or the top of beech and the legs of oak?
Hello,
I am designing a big workbench to use for a signage workshop, the top will be a full 250x125 cm OSB, probably a 2.2 cm thick one with a 1cm one on the top that can be replaced in the future, 0.9 or 1 meter tall legs to comfortably work standing around it and i would like to use only 8x8 cm beams and some short/long screws to hold everything together, to have a simple shopping list.
For now we are only building one, but the plan is for 2 of this size.
I am worried about the way the legs join the main frame, i also have some spots where i could either put one screw thru 3 beams, or screw then 2 at a time.
The way I would screw them is also concerning, do I screw them perpendicular or would it be better to do it at an angle, all with/without pilot holes.
Would also appreciate some tips for the height to comfortably work around it but also reach the middle, will get some adjusting feet probably.
I want to get the size right so i can cut the lumber directly at the lumber store to minimize dust in the sign-shop.
Top Surface: 250 x 125 cm → 98.43 x 49.21 in (closest: 96 x 48 in)
OSB Thickness: 2.2 cm + 1 cm → 7/8 in + 3/8 in
Leg Height: 90–100 cm → 36–39 in
Beams: 8 x 8 cm → 3.15 x 3.15 in (closest: 3 x 3 in or 4 x 4 in nominal)
I scoured a bunch of free plans on the internet and put together my own hybrid version of a combo miter/table saw workbench. When I want to use the table saw (right side), I will remove the miter saw (middle) from its base and fill with a plywood "leaf".
However, I am wondering what the best way to support the miter saw base would be based on the design that I have configured, or what I should change in order to optimally support it while the miter saw is being used? A video I referenced for this section just attaches it with (8) #9 3-1/8" screws but my worry is that just screwing into the edges of the 2x4 legs on the front and back of each "side" will not be enough. The miter saw is a DeWalt DW779 - which weighs about 70 lbs.
The black blocks at the bottom will be casters, I just couldn't bother making a wheel in SketchUp haha.
I would really appreciate any help or suggestions. I know I could just run legs down underneath the miter section but am wondering if I can avoid that. Thanks in advance!
This was part of the original kitchen cabinets to my house. Built by the original owner. He was a tool and die man. I’ve decided to keep it.
I’ve been considering building a bench for my rapidly growing 3D printer collection and came across this page from one of the 3D printing pages.
I have 4 main questions, although, my gut already has me an answer for my second question.
Note: I’m trying to minimize cost as much as possible without straight up cheaping out.
Do I sacrifice any structural integrity or stability by going with 2x3’s instead of 2x4’s?
Should I run with 4x4 for legs, or use 2x3/2x4 and brace extra well?
Does anyone have any recommendations for insulating rubber feet? 3D printers generate a ton of vibrations and I feel like rubberizing the feet would dampen that significantly?
I’m likely going to throw on a peg board back for tool and filament storage. Are there any peg board types I should absolutely avoid?
Here is my workbench. I built it to my specs and needs. Primarily, I make memorial marbles using cremains using a propane and oxygen powered torch made by Glass Torch Technologies. The blue box thing is an annealer that is programmed to sit at 1050*f until I'm done for the day. It then is programmed to cool down in intervals to allow for thermal expansion or in this case, thermal retraction.
I have caught slack from other glass artists that my bench is too clean, but I can't work in a mess.
I am planning on putting floating shelves above my workbench that I am in the beginning stages of planning. Can anyone please recommend the smartest fastener (screw, bolt, etc) to use when driving the shelves into the studs. Thanks in advance.
Have any Aussies made this bench? Would like to get opinions on some metric sizes and if 2400w x 1200d x 1000h bench would look disproportionate using 90x35 for everything? Was originally going to use 140x35 but was going to be $960 for materials from bunnings. Can halve the cost using 90x35.
Will gladly accept advice from everything. I'm an electrician by trade and need a workbench for my shed and hobbies. So was thinking 2400x1200 to cover all bases.
Tia
Recently finish a English inspired work bench, bonus points for obtaining all the wood and the vice for free. I distress painted the legs to take away from the green pressure treated wood used there. The paint was also free haha. It did see a project or two before posting this.
The old tool box to the left is full of various rasps and files, draw knife’s, spoke shaves, and various other goodies.
Hi workbench community
I want to create a very simple fence that consists of a 500mm length of 40x20mm beech that connects to parallel T tracks 415mm between centres, in my router table.
I am going to drill through the wood and use M8 T track bolts.
I've seen videos of people making simple jigs, like a hinged mitre fence, they drill through wood and also drill a shallow recess, they hammer in washers with a few teeth on the back to protect the wood/hole (for example when I bolt it to my T track)
Problem I have, I have no idea what these toothed washers are called. Now I need a couple of them I cannot even find a photo of them.
Can anyone help? They are not toothed washers, they are not dog tooth washers. They look a bit like pronged tee nuts, but I don't want tee shaped or threaded. If I search for pronged washers then I'm getting close but I cannot see them with round holes.
Can anyone suggest a name to search for? Flat round washers, with a round hole and 4 prongs on the back to hammer in to a batten to protect a drill hole.