I am trying to preserve 2 cookies. I poured a base layer and set the cookie floating, waited 2 days, then poured the second layer.

Problem 1 Spongy.
The base layer seemed nice and hard, and back layer worked great. But when i unmolded and flipped it over, the (now) top is spongy. Is there anything I can do? Can I pour again on top and seal in the spongy under a hard layer?

Problem 2 Sticky in the middle.
The base layer felt a little tacky, but I went forward and did 2nd pour. When I unmolded, the 2nd pour was hard, and the 1st pour turned out hard at the bottom (now top). but there is a seam around the middle that is still sticky. Can i pour hardener on that? Can I pour another layer over it if I can form a bigger mold? Will that hold?

First time making this dragon. It’s not perfect but i still like how it turned out. It’s for a 3 year old, she wanted it multi colored.

I’ll be adding pigment to this so not worried about a clear finish but what is the fall backs of epoxy stored in low temps??

I have spent ages prepping double garage for what I’m hoping will be a great marble effect metallic epoxy floor!

Yesterday without much thought I filled the gaps between skirting boards and cement with a Selleys no mould silicone gap filler. Today I was about to start my first primer coat when it dawned on me that the Epoxy might not stick to edges now iv done that! I started googling and couldn’t find any advice and what I did find didn’t sound good 🤦🏼‍♀️

I feel a bit stupid now after how particular iv been about everything else. Please any advice appreciated - given it’s only the smudging industry anywhere from 1-4mm in different areas of the edges, will this be enough to ruin the epoxy from gripping?

Is there a way to prep those bits of silicone or an easy way to get it off the cement ?

Hello guys, I'm doing a big project and making a mahjong set as a gift for a friend, and with that comes the fact that there are 144 individual resin pieces to be done, the tiles came out nicely but they still need a little bit of sanding.

My question here is basically can I sand them down roughly with low grit sandpaper and get rid of the imperfections then bring back the shine and clarity with a quick spray of acrylic varnish ?

Top coating with more resin would be extremely tedious and sanding and polishing each individual tile is a little more than I want to handle since I'd have to do everything here by hand only.

All tips greatly appreciated !

TL;DR : Can I use a spray varnish instead of a regular top coat on a freshly sanded resin piece ?

im in high school doing a resin river desk thet is 92x23x2

and im looking for a resin that is clear and can be dyed blue im willing to spend alot of money

the gap in between the the pieces max distance is 9” and the gap goes the full 92” lengthwise down

Sort of a follow up to my post a few weeks back asking how to remove a failed deep pour. Lots of suggestions and I was stubborn thinking I could do it easier. I couldn’t.

The best method I found is to wear a respirator and get a 24x24x1 filter and smack it on the back of a box fan because there’s going to be dust.

Use a heat gun and heat a small section at a time (I’m doing 12” sections or so). Get a multi tool with a scraper blade and go to town on the heated and softened epoxy. Once off, use a wire wheel on a drill to get the pieces missed and your subject cleaned up. Then go over that finally with a 80 grit flap disc attachment for a drill.

Plan is to use the heat gun and wire wheel on the top to clean that up a bit as well.

About 3/4 of the way done, should finish today. Then I’ll have to rebuild my form and pour… yet again. This time I ordered superclear 2.0 liquid glass and their colorant. Don’t use Amazon epoxy without doing your research… I have done 2 successful deep pours with that brand but got a bad batch on this pour. Lesson learned.

Hey everyone – I messed up while working on an epoxy project and accidentally spilled a blob of resin on my wooden floor. It’s now fully cured into this puddle. I’ve tried scraping it, but it’s rock-solid.
Does anyone know a safe, budget-friendly way to remove it without wrecking the wood?

I have sandpaper and a heat gun available if that is of any help. What should I do? Chemical solvents? Heat tricks? Or should I just call a pro? Thanks in advance!

I’ve received several quotes from contractors for coating my garage floor, and one contractor emphasized that the brand of coating makes a significant difference in terms of quality and warranty.

Two brands that were mentioned are SIKA and Shield-Crete.Do you have any thoughts or opinions on these brands or recommendations for other professional-grade options? Your insights would be greatly appreciated!

Hello!

I'm a tattoo apprentice and my mentor recommended tattooing a pigs foot for practice, since their skin is very similar to human skin. I wouldn't want to tattoo a pigs foot and then just toss it afterwards, I'd want to preserve it somehow if I could. Would preserving the pigs foot in epoxy be feasible? I've been researching wet preserving for a few days and figured that if I injected the foot with formalin and submerged it in a formalin filled jar for a while, this would remove most of the water and help with applying the resin. I've never wet preserved anything or used epoxy before so I have no idea what I'm doing. Any advice would be much appreciated!

Can you just varnish over cloudy sanded epoxy or do you have to polish it will gloss varnish make it shine again is polishing necessary

I want to find the perfect silicone for making a mould for epoxy resin so that when it hardens it will come out glass-clear and wont need polishing… Will the silicone MM922 do the job?

If I can’t do epoxy projects outside because of the weather and they create harmful vapor indoors, you guys must all have some sort of indoor enclosure that extracts fumes right?

Either way, I need advice for making one…

Plan so far:

I would build a 36h 30w 30d cube frame with wood or pipe and create walls with either polycarbonate walls or possibly even just shrink wrapping it closed. All built on a super glossy porcelain tile.

I would put a large out/up swing door on the front. A small space heater inside, free standing. A 4” inline fan attached to a dryer hose leading out the window using a window adapter kit.

This is a thing already isn’t it?

Any advice would be great!

Hoping this is allowed here. I'm using epoxy to attach a metal cylinder through a piece of wood. It's a fairly high stress joint. In this application - should I aim for a tight fit, or should I drill the hole oversize and use thickened epoxy to add strength to the joint?

First of all, is it even possible to use epoxy through a sprayer? Looking for a sprayable, HVLP or Airless Sprayer, epoxy material that is suitable for tub/tile in a bathroom. I'll be coating a large bathtub and tile backslash + a shower tub with tile backsplash. I've used Famowoods 2 component epoxy resin for fireplace hearths and tile countertops with good results (using an aquarium heater to get the epoxy to a perfect temp before mixing and adding pure white pigment) but am looking for an even higher quality epoxy specifically designed to be sprayed over tubs/tile. Any advice fellow epoxyers??

I am pouring an epoxy and live edge countertop. It is going to be a pour in place. The edges of my cou tertop are live were so building a mold is out of the question and thi s is a pour in place. There needs to be some deep pour in places, how do I build targeted molds on the countertop to contain the deep pour. There will be some places scattered throughout the countertop and one spot where I will need to stop the epoxy on the edge

Hi all!

As the title states, need to clean the basement floor which is an opaque epoxy.

This was here when I bought the house.

My normal go to, vinegar and water (5% vinegar) apparently is not correct.

What should I use? I have read ammonia but that is a lung killer.

TIA!

We have Corian counters, which are scratch and scuffed up cosmetically. We are selling our home and rather than spending $5k to replace them, we’d like to epoxy over it, so the kitchen looks nice.

We have 2 issues: 1: The kitchen sink is integrated in to the counter. It’s all one piece. Can I just tape the line between the sink and counter and let the counter build out? It’s is all flush right now. There is a visible separation between the counter and sink, but running your finger over it, it is completely smooth.

2: the edges of the counter are bull nose rounded. I assume I can tape the same way one would with sharp corners, let the epoxy set a bit, then remove the tape and let it fall down?

https://imgur.com/a/sZpaYgk