/r/fixit
r/fixit has temporarily gone dark to protest the proposed changes to Reddit's API access policies.
Be Excellent To Each Other.
We strive above all to be a sub that provides a community service, and as such we hold ourselves to certain standards. Keep the comments on-topic, you can make jokes, it's fine, just don't go off the rails. Do not market anything here without asking the mods first (spoiler, we're gonna say no), don't be posting links to Amazon.com with affiliate codes in them either. Don't post about things you've already solved or made, /r/DIY is a better place for that.
Further to this goal of providing a service; If someone's comment provides you with a working solution to your issue (or if you just plain figure it out for yourself) post a comment singling out what the solution ultimately was and please flair your post as Fixed. Hopefully this will let future readers learn from our collective successes.
There are things that are too dangerous for us to handle here. This can include certain electrical jobs, or natural gas plumbing jobs for example. Rule of thumb, if there's any reasonable chance you could get hurt or killed if something went awry you'll probably be directed to find yourself an expert.
/r/fixxit -- two x's, they do motorcycles over there.
/r/whatisthisthing -- sometimes you don't even know what it is that broke!
/r/fixit
Video of my sliding closet doors.
This is a set of closet sliding doors. In this video, the slider for the left bi-fold door is (visibly) messed up. This is what the slide looks like, more-or-less: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/prime-line-7-8-in-white-nylon-top-mount-bi-fold-door-slide-guide-acme-2-pack-/1000172875
There are two bi-folding doors. At the top, near the 10 second mark in the video, the right door slider is encroached onto the left track. Are the sliders supposed to be "trespassing" onto the other track?
I'm not sure how the design of the bi-folding doors are supposed to be... If they're meant to be so far along and onto the other side of the tracks and using the springs to spring the closet to a close.
Because when I place the top spring pivot properly in the slider, and then try to close the two doors, the pivot pops out on the left door...
I don't feel like the design is working as intended, and maybe I should opt for this: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/prime-line-spring-loaded-bi-fold-door-top-guide-wheel-2-pack-/1000161365
Any advice? Diagrams / illustrations?
Much appreciated!
I have a Philips Sonicare toothbrush (HX648E) that last night decided that it didn't want its 'link rod' rod attached anymore. This link rod is the shaft that protrudes from the top of the unit's body, and has the brush head slot over the top.
I've pulled it down and it seems that the rod was a pressed interference joint into the cast link piece, and that joint has worn at the top of the socket, letting the rod fall out.
Replacement link rod assemblies are available from the likes of ebay and aliexpress, but since mine is a model with the sensor wire, by the time I pay for shipping for the part to Aus I'm very close to the cost of a new brush unit.
So since a replacement part isn't a practical choice, I'd like to try and rebond the rod into the cast link.
I believe the rod is stainless steel, the cast piece I'm not sure about, but the weight makes it feel like steel, and it's also non magnetic. As for the wear, I don't have a way to accurately measure the gap, but at the base of the socket the wear seems minimal, and at the top edge I'd say it's a tenth of a mm or two.
Anybody got any suggestions on the sort of adheisve/retainer I should be trying? I looked at Loctite's charts and figure 680 would be worth a try, but it's damn expensive (I can't find the 0.5ml containers here). I've got 243 and basics like super glue and epoxy on hand, don't mind buying something so long as it isn't too exxy.
The joint is going to be exposed to a lot of high frequency vibration, so I figure there's a fair chance it doesn't hold long term, but I'd like to try before I bin this.
Recently, I noticed that there should be weep holes around my house but I have never seen them. I decide to unplug some by myself with a driller. Anything should I pay more attention to? For example the location and depth into the wall…I don’t wanna damage the stuff inside …thanks!
The inside is smooth, no screw, rivet, etc. It seems like this was held together by injected plastic?
The armrest won't move down, the catch underneath it won't allow the armrest to move to its kowest position. How do i fix it?
The real question is where do i take something like this for a tune up? I don't want to do the work and the company will pay someone.
These scissors are several decades old. They're the big scissors for ribbon cutting ceremonies and are a little warped.
Sorry for the rough estimates here. The pair of scissors is primarily made of wood.. no clue what kind.
The blades are bowed slightly so that when they're closed, there's a roughly 1/8" gap at the furthest part. The bolt is closed tightly and not the issue. Tips and hinge rub perfectly for a couple inches but trying to cut a ribbon using the middle 90% of the blade is nearly impossible.
Can the wood be bent without compromising the paint job? Better yet who can I just pay to fix it?
ok so i have bottomless frames with the only thing securely holding them in is a thin plastic wire that has snapped! now the issue is only way i can fix it is using glue but i have unsteady hands last time i tried using super glue i got some on the lenses does anyone know a glue or something that could dry clear but if i accidentally miss there is something i could use to dissolve it?
Hello, recently my hair dryer stopped having a low setting. That is, both the High and Low are high air volume. The heat settings (Cool, Warm, Hot, and Cold button) seem to be working fine. Is this a switch issue or something else? I have cleaned the back air intake. It is a Conair Infiniti Pro. Suggestions now how to fix it? Thank you.
I have an M1 Mac and a Dell U2720QM Monitor Display. Everything 15 minutes or so, I'll get a blinking gray screen that periodically blinks 2-4 times in the span of 10-15 seconds. Any reason why this is and how it can be resolved?
Hi,
Thrifted this lamp with dimmable light. The dimmer is a rotating knob, with a on/off position (click on, click off), and then rotating the knob changes the brightness correctly. However, when clicking it back off, it doesn't actually turn off but remains on the lowest brightness setting.
The only way to turn it off is to unplug it. If the switch is in the off position, then it remains off until the switch is put to any "on" position, at which point I have to unplug it to turn it back off again.
The circuit includes a potentiometer (connected to the knob) and a voltage controller (Intertek ICDL-20NA-BI-1).
I opened the potentiometer and it seems that once the circuit is closed once, then there is no way to turn off the lamp, even by completely breaking the circuit going through the potentiometer (see picture where the light is on, but the circuit is open). I thus suspect that the problem is the voltage controller that doesn't "reset" properly somehow. Fixing or opening such a component is way above my knowledge, and I am not sure where to go from here.
Anyone has any advice if it is worth opening the dimmer (there might be a faulty contact)? Or if I might need to get a similar part? In which case where should I go to get such a part?
Thanks in advance :)
The plastic bottom stop on my zipper fell off and got lost, and I'm struggling to find a fix that works on my coat. I've tried using thread, and melting a plastic straw, but I don't know if I didn't do it right or what, but it didn't work. It's on the opposite side to the actual zip. Thanks in advance
the sounds it makes during wash time has changed.
3 new sounds:
New to these types of hobs and have pressed all sorts of buttons combos, set different pots and pans on but this hob is not working at all. Now it is just beeping frequently? What's the issue here?
I recently got my hands on a rare Legend of Zelda golden statue. The sword comes as a separate part that you have to screw into a hole in Links hand. Unfortunately when doing this, I went a little too far and the sword snapped, leaving the screw in the hole with a flat top.
Thankfully I got a spare sword, but I am unable to get the snapped off screw out of the hole...
The snapped off screw stuck in the hole of link's hand.
What the replacement sword looks like.
Does anyone have a good idea on how to get the screw out of the hole without causing more damage? As you can see, I tried using a pair of tweezers to clamp onto the screw and twist it, but all that did was scrape some paint off around his hand. (I am not even sure if the screw moved at all when doing this, I dont think it did but its so tiny that its hard to tell)
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove this? I don't think a clamp would work since the sculpt of the hand means the screw is still inside a hole with very little room around it to latch onto it.
A kind neighbor went in and shut off our water to the outside, but my question is should I call somebody out while we are out of town to address the issue or can it wait until we get home?
Like the extending part splitbut otherwise it works fine
Help! The wrong valve was put in the tubing on the sphygmomanometer and now it’s stuck. I have tried everything to get it out. Currently using pliers and I’m scared the valve will just break. Valve is plastic. How do i get it out?!