I recently pulled an old road bike out of storage (probably 20 years old at this point). I have been riding 80-100 miles a week for a little over 2 months. Yesterday, for the second time, I had a spoke on my rear wheel break on a ride.

Is it worth replacing all of the spokes on the wheel at once? Or should I replace them as they break? Or are the wheels old enough to consider replacing them altogether?

Hi, i have the DT Swiss F 1900 CLASSIC 29F 1900 CLASSIC 29 wheelset and i need to tension some nippels (gonna use a tensionmeter, so i am good on that front), but i can't find the right dimenstion for the tensioner tool. these are the nippels used

https://www.dtswiss.com/en/components/spokes-and-nipples/nipples/dt-squorx

but there is no external measurement as far as i see, am i blind?

Has it been anyone else’s experience that you had to bring the spools down one notch on the bent arms to keep them in a spool range of a 700c tire?

All the photos I see online are of MTB bike in the racks normal configuration.

The brake levers are on top of the handlebar, and I don’t understand how to hold this while riding. Can I move them to the front of the bike? If so, how would I do that?

I just bought a Toseek TR5500 Integrated Carbon Fork to install on a Cannondale CAAD12 build. The fork came with a ton of parts and accessories but no instructions.

I have searched the Internet and YouTube and can't find either printed instructions or a youtube installation guide.

I would appreciate pointing me in the right direction so I can finish this build.

Any ideas? More than 10yr old model (Carbon Fiber part broke in two). Found Al replacement in Canada last year (pic). They didn't ship overseas but as soon as I lined up a Mule I was too late- out of stock.

I got a Kona rove off a buddy with a shimano sora 2x9 drivetrain for gravel and some bikepacking in mind. I did my first mini trip and the gearing is way to hard for bikepacking.

As title mentioned, what's the easiest and cheapest way to make the gearing easier for climbing hills with a loaded bike?

The shifting for the front derailleur has 3 modes, so you can adjust the chain line, kinda an in between changing from 1-2 up front.

Would it work to stick a 3x cassette up front and use the same shifter since it has 3 shift increments?

If so what cassette would work?

Or would I have to replace the entire drivetrain?

Hi. Can anybody please tell the length of the quixle axle. It's for a 2023 Canyon Torque. Looking to replace it with a Burgtec one. Thanks

I got my mantis X last week, love it, great bike all around for the money and quality. Only problem is brakes, front works great, but not the back, and also wonder how I can get wheels to spin more freely in neutral and how to adjust brakes. Anyone got any tips or tutorials to work and adjust the breaks? Thanks!

I am trying to build up a Felt B12 TT bike frame and am slowly finding my way with a few things but one particular aspect of installing the brake cables has got me stumped.

I have a TT base bar with holes to allow the brake cables to exit the underside of the bar fairly close to the stem on each side. I have tried cutting the appropriate length of cable outer and adding ferrules to each end but what I am finding is that the ferrules are narrower than the holes in the bar so as soon as the cable goes tight, a whole section of the cable outer disappears into the bar and the ferrule comes off and gets stuck inside.

Ferrules seem to be a standard size. So what can I do to get the ferrule to stop at the hole in the bar and not disappear into it? I realise this may well be a stupid question but any suggestions welcome!

I tried to lubricate the pivot points on the derailleur and replaced the cable.

Note: I am able to shift the chain into the large chainring, but it feels too difficult. It is much easier to shift from large to small chainring though.

I just put a Tubus Vega rack on a Surly Bridge Club XS but unfortunately the rack platform is not even because the bike has a very sloping down tube. This means the struts start very low (short seat tube) and they don't reach long enough to level the platform. How can I best solve this? Just find some long aftermarket struts somehow? Couldn't find anything :/

I am trying to figure out how to center 29" rear wheel (boost) by moving it about 5mm to the chain side. The wheel is DT Swiss M 1700. Do I need to redish it by turning the spokes quarter turn? Right and left spokes to a different direction, to straighten and loosen thoose? Is it doable at home? Any chance to damage the wheel?

Thanks

Hi all,

I wanted to switch my crankset from 52/36 to 50/34. I like the the arm length that I have now (consulted on a fitting) and it's in a good condition. Can I just order new rings 50T and 34T for the same type of crankset (FC-9100) and replace them? It would be far cheaper than replacing the whole crankset.
Also do chainrings from FC-9100 work with 9000 cranksets? (That is probably the main question)

Hi Bikewrenchers,

I have set of stan’s no tubes ZTR arch s1’s that I’ve been using with a Rockshox fork for several years. I have changed bikes and now have a fox 36 fork. The wheels now do not fit in the fox fork as I believe I have the torque end caps to fit the Rockshox. I have looked online and cannot seem to find what end caps I would need to make the wheels fit the fork. Hub/fork is standard 15x110 boost.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hey guys!

I am currently rebuilding my Dad's old 80s MTB. I'm going to 1x speed (40 chainring and a 10speed 11-40 casette). Now, my dream would be to install (fairly) modern STI's with the option of reusing either the original derrailleur that was on the bike (Deore XT M735) or a bit newer one I was gifted (XTR 950).

My question now is: What STI's would be comaptible with this setup? I'm guessing just buying a new GRX wouldn't be an option as the pull ratios have changed...

Thanks for you help in advance!

Hey there,

I currently have a Claris CS-HG50 cassette. I have bought the WH-RX010 rear wheel which comes with a 11/12 speed road freehub HG-L.

I am getting confused as to what spacer I need. 1.85mm? Anyone have an definitive answer?

Thanks

Hello bikewrenchers,

I'm planning to retire my old Shimano Alfine drivetrain and replace it with an external gearing.

The bike is Charge Mixer, current Axle Type is 3/8" (9.5mm) ; OLN, 135 mm, vertical dropouts. See pic.

My question is whether it is even possible to gear up the bike with external gears. The bottleneck so far is finding a suiting derailleur hanger. Any suggestions, or ideas on the conversion?

Thx

I need tips on how to remove this crankarm,

I run a trek Emonda sl5 with 105 and hydraulic brakes. It brakes super well! My girlfriend bought a Liv Avail Advanced 2 with 105 12 speed and hydraulic disc brakes. I took it for a little spin around the parking lot and noticed how weak the brake force was, espc in comparison to my Emonda. It feels almost as weak as my mechanical Domane disc brakes.

Everything looks normal and identical to my Emonda but I can't figure out why the brakes suck. Is it maybe there is not enough fluid in the brake line? Or is it because it's new?