/r/bikewrench
A community of cyclists - some with questions, some answers
A forum for folks with questions about bicycle repair.
Post your problems, and we will try to get your bike rolling again. It really helps if you can provide pictures and/or video.
A community of cyclists - some with questions, some answers
Post your problems, and we will try to get your bike rolling again. It really, really helps if you can provide pictures and/or video.
You can also consult our FAQ or the list of people willing to help locally.
Post Rules and Guidelines
Questions about bike repair only. If you just want to post a picture, this isn't the place for it. Full rules.
"Is this cracked / safe to ride?" - If you have to ask, don't ride it. We probably can't tell from a picture just what condition your bike is in. Take it to your Local Bike Shop and ask them. If it's carbon, a specialist repair shop may be required. They should have the equipment and expertise to inspect it properly.
Please use the weekly thread for post follow ups and acknowledgments. Tag helpful commenters if you want them to receive a notification.
Play nice
Stay on topic / No jokes, especially not false answers as jokes.
Other Websites:
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Technical Info. A comprehensive resource with answers to common and obscure questions, data tables, etc., including a glossary which also serves as an index.
Park Tools' Repair Help including illustrated text and video guides to service procedures.
Cold Setting Steel Frames: adjusting the dropout spacing on a old frame to fit a more modern drivetrain. A comment with an overview and links to more information.
Other helpful subs:
r/bicycleengineering: bicycle technology from an engineering perspective.
r/wheelbuild and r/Framebuilding for construction of those components.
r/Bikebuilding for discussing and showing off bikes built up from a frame. See also r/xbiking.
r/Vintage_bicycles/ for pre-1986 bicycles.
Outlets for posts that don't belong here:
r/BikeMechanics Discussions among bike mechanics, professionals and advanced amateurs. Looser rules than /r/bikewrench.
r/JustRidingAlong "Pictures and stories of some of the most egregious user-error and bad luck damage on bicycles."
or just plain r/bicycling, which also has links to more subs.
/r/bikewrench
I’ve never built a bike before and I’d like to give it a try. I just picked up a 2014 Trek Steel District (https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=607af86549587f0028367f14) frame that I’d like to try and build into a drop bar commute/adventure/travel/light gravel bike.
I’m very interested in sourcing my parts using a combination of local used as well as AliExpress parts. I’m very interested in trying some of the cheapo group sets and am aware of the risks/concerns voiced about them.
Are there any immediate points of failure I should consider when trying to plan out a first time build, from a commuter to a gravel-ish bike?
Some things I’m currently trying to figure out:
Hey! So my bike has dropped its chain probably 4 times in the past 4 weeks, including twice in the same ride today. I've had the derailleur adjusted at a bike shop just a week ago, so I don't think that's what's causing it. I did notice an odd sound coming from the bike, a kind of rubbing sound coming from the crank. I also noticed that the teeth on the front are more against one side of the chain than the other, could this be causing the problem? If so, how would I fix it?
I’m looking to in the future add bearring removal and press tools to my collection. Also looking for recommendations on headset/press fit bb tools.
I like professional grade tools even though i’m a home mechanic/spare time shop. I’ve had many bad experiences with tools from budget brands and i’d rather buy once and cry once. Most of my tools are park as I trust their things. But some pedros, wera and knipex in there as well. Heard good things about wheels mfg and abbey tools on this topic. What are you using and what would you want to be using? Thanks!
Not sure how I managed to get myself in this situation but the compression plug is properly stuck in the carbon steerer of my fork. I’ve tried using the top cap bolt and giving it a tap with a hammer but that hasn’t worked at all. Any ideas?
planning to buy gold spokes,fork spacers,stem bolts and chain. will the gold last forever or will it fade?
i did the method shimano tells for finding chain length but to me it seems a little to long still. when i shift to small cog and small chainring there is no more tension.
i know these are gears you would normally not use, but i want to make sure. like this i dont get the whole 35T capacity from the RD.
It has 28 grooves.
I have the stock tires on it and for the last couple of months I've had a flat almost weekly. It's not even glass or nails, it's just thorns. I use this bike to commute to/from work. It's about 90% bike trail and through a couple of neighborhoods.
Are there any stronger aftermarket tires I can put on my bike?
Noob question (have not worked much with bikes before) EDIT: Title makes no sense, sorry --
I have a 2007 Trek 2100 (2x10) that oriinally had an Ultegra rear derailleur, 105 front derailleur, 105 STI 10-speed shifters, and a rear 105 12-25 10-speed casette with 700x28cc wheels. Unfortunately, the rear wheel/casette was stolen and the front wheel got banged up pretty bad during the robbery (because I had locked the front wheel with the bike), so I need to replace the wheels/casette.
I also have an REI Co-Op ARD 1.2 with a 2x11 (22 speed) Shimano 105 front/rear derailleurs/shifters with 700x28cc wheels. I recently replaced the existing road wheels with a set of gravels.
Is it possible for me to use the (now spare) road wheels from the Co-Op and use them to replace the set on the Trek? Are these compatible despite using a different casette (12-25, 10-speed vs 11-32 11-speed) and brakes (rim vs disc)?
EDIT: All very helpful answers - sounds like the answer (especially for a guy with very limited bike repair experience like me) is a solid "No". Thanks y'all!
No sound when free spinning the wheels upside down and when taking the weight off of the rear wheel.
Spokes seem tight enough and braking at front or rear does not stop the sound with every revolution.
Thank you
I really don't know how to remove the freehub from the Quanta hub. I tried pulling on in, it does not move. The axle is also kind of in there. Do I need to tap the axle out towards the NDS? Or is a special tool needed does goes into the slots on outside the bearing in the freehub?
I am a bit confused about what type of disc brakes this frame takes ,🤷
I know Wheels Mfg makes a thread-together PF30, also Token Ninja I believe. Any experience/rec's?
Shifter don’t shift either up or down. Can it be fixed ?
What can I do to fix this
The bike is an old Santacruz superlight which I’ve been riding for a while around 10 years old until today I’ve wanted to convert it into a 1x so I bought a sram crankset and when I tried to get my old crankset off it wouldn’t budge even a millimetre I’ve been try for hours hitting it with a hammer trying to pry it off with a wrench but nothing
If you ride a chain with a god bit of wax caked on, will it shed itself of the wax on its own or do I need to reheat/rewax it all over again?
I left the chain the wax pot to cool down but may have left it for too long. It was caked in wax (photo below). I was able to take a lot of it off, but there is still a decent amount. Oops...
The reason for this was bc last time I waxed the chain, I took the chain out while it was too hot and the wax essentially seemed to just drip off. So this time, I wanted to let it cool a bit first. May have taken it too far.