I heard that bikes can't be fillet brazed with 55% silver filler because it's not strong enough and is only fit for lugs. So what if as pictured, I design a head tube with a built in fillet to increase surface area where the other tubes fit into and silver braze that?

This would be relatively cost-effective, a 46mm straight headtube would cost me about €30 whereas this short, tapered 37-47mm MTB head tube would cost me about €40 to have printed including shipping.

It would be printed in SS316 just like the seatstay coupler I posted recently, which seems to be working great. The biggest downside I can see would be a little bit of added weight, since the printed material needs to be a bit thicker than a normal head tube to achieve proper strength. (JLC3DP recommends a general wall thickness of at least 1.5mm for this printing technique)

I’m looking for ideas on jigs for forks. Anyone have a place that I can see some photos?

So I've managed to break the left seat stay off by "starting too hard" a traffic light (with flat pedals), corrosion didn't look awful, but there are some marks on the still intact (but not trustworthy) right seat stay.

I'm thinking to fix and reinforce the break bridge on both sides, not sure how they made them back then, but it looks like a spot weld. Now due to my lack of confidence in the seat stays I want to reinforce the seat stay-seat tube connection. My current idea is to add a second brake bridge (red) which will be connected at least downwards (yellow) but possibly also upwards (green) to the seat tube. As material I'd use tubes from scrap frames I've got laying around.

Now here's my question: do you have better ideas? Maybe extending the stays to reach the top tube? just extending the stays a tad and welding onto the lugs?

And yes, I'll be adding eyelets for the rack too.

The frame is an old model, if I interpret the stamp right it's from '74. (PAGE 1074 on the brake bridge) but still in good condition, also didn't pay much for it, so the risk is fairly low, I'm not new to thin tube welding (MIG, due to lack of a TIG welder), and well it's a broken frame, at most I'm learning something.

For all those who noticed the broken bottle cage and handle bar tape: yeah, I'll fix that up too, but I've got priorities.

So after many years of thinking about building my own frame(s), I picked up a tig welder and have been practicing in the garage on steel tubing. I feel like I’m getting fairly close to being able to actually weld up a frame and so have been researching the next steps. I want to build a monster gravel / drop bar 29er to serve as my go-to bike for training rides around town here in Anchorage including paved surfaces, gravel/dirt trails and roads, and straight up singletrack. Maybe take it to do some big gravel rides out of state. But as an example of what I see this bike mostly doing: my favorite type of ride is to leave from home, ride 5-10 miles of roads and multi use paths to one of the local trail systems, ride said trails, then ride back home. Sometimes gaining 2500’ within 25 miles.

Anywho, I’ve been pouring over the numbers at geometrygeeks looking at bikes that sorta do what I’m looking for and how those compare to bikes I’ve ridden in the past that I really enjoyed and sorta smashed all of them together in bikecad. Thoughts on what I’ve got so far would be much appreciated.

P.S. For reference, I’m 5’10” with a 31” inseam and normally ride with a 72cm seat height

I’d been looking for a stretch cruiser frame to build a bike from. Scouring the internet for something used or beat up or something. I found nothing. So i bought a welder and some old frames. I’m cutting the old ones up and welding new frames from them. Pretty excited to see how this turns out.

Thought I’d share my new MTB frame project now that it’s all built up. My last MTB was too slack for my local trails; this one is a much better fit for me.

If you want to see the build process…

Building a Bike Frame in My Garage! https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL81yNWivfrOTFE8D88mSMiMp7OCrivRmV

Hallo frame builders out there. I have a little question about mixing stainless steel an normal cromoly steel in a bike builde. I resonantly bought a modern steel frame roadbike, it's made from Columbus spirit tubing. The special thing about the frame is, the dropouts are 3d printed stainless Steel. At first I thought, great even if the paint strips on the dropouts I don't have a rust problem. But then I remembered something out of engineering school called galvanic corrosion. Do you think this could be a problem at the point of connecting between the steel and the stainless steel?

FS: Henry James Universal Jig ( Pre-Anodized back plate)

Universal Tube Supports with Quick Releases x 3

Integrated Bridge and Boss Attachment

Integrated Fork Building Jig

The 30" Protractor

Revision 2 Instruction handbook

44mm HT pucks

Kit for axle conversion

Asking $600 cash money with local pickup in NOCO/Fort Collins CO. Outside of Colorado, buyer pays for shipping.

I have built about 4-5 frames with this fixture and it's been sitting in the corner of my shop since I built a new fixture for my specific needs.

It's a solid fixture to use and it has the user's manual that Hank wrote for it as well.

https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBNEAP

Thx for looking and don't hesitate to reach out with any questions.

Hi - I was wondering if anyone had experimented with mocking up various handlebar shapes and could recommend any particular materials for someone that doesn't have access to a pipe bender (but does have a 3D printer). The handlebars would not be ridden outdoors. EMT? Plastic tubing? Plain old cut-up broom handles?

Having spent the last year getting into really good bike shape I find I have outgrown the fit of a riser-bar bike I've had for decades. I bought a new drop-bar bike for outdoor riding and like it so far. The old bike is now going to live on the trainer and I feel like I have an opportunity to play around with different handlebar shapes and get wacky with it (flat with barends to mimic drops, sweeps with various angles, etc). I don't want to build up a collection of handlebars and stems and I figure since the bike is indoor only and only has to handle my hand pressure it doesn't really matter if the materials are too weak to handle bumps or won't hold up over time.

Anybody try this sort of thing before?

I make stainless steel racks in my garage, but the only commercial tabs available are just cold-rolled steel. I want to have some tabs sort of like this like this cut out of stainless for metric tybing, but what grade steel? I've always used 316 for corrosion resistance. Are there any other properties I should be considering? I'm self-taught so no background in metallurgy.

Can a crack like this be repaired? Don't mind the putty the seller put that on there. Thanks

When you really fancy building a frame from all your scrap and are poor. It turned out pretty sweet. Everything was measured corner to corner with a big vernier caliper and true. Apologies if anyone had to bleach their eyes

Ive made two frames so far each has been made with this makeshift jig I made. Im too embarrassed to show a pic of the frakenmonster-jig I made, if theres enought ppl wanna see this clunky monster. I have all my notching, mitering and and tooling in order to do all other steps besides hold the frame together. Its super clunky and hard to use and make small adjustments. I feel like im at a place where i need to make a decision and i could use some help from ppl who have done it and been here!

Im thinking about either A. buying a benchmark 1:1 (About 2K$ more money saves time) possibly have to alter and customize it down the road. B. make my own jig (more time and less money) I have all the machining and tooling things needed to make a jig (mills lathes and stuff). Trying to make a Jig has slowly been driving me mad in a semi fun frustrating way. but I don't have much money. But pausing on making things to save up for a jig seems like it just might be the play. Thanks all!!

*this bike is just tacked up in this pic* some reason pic didn’t post

Hi everyone, is anyone driving down from the Netherlands or belgium to Dresden next week who could offer a ride? Im looking to go but I dont drive and trains are expensive.

(Sorry if this isnt allowed, then ill delete it)

I sweated in my joints with a first pass of Gasflux nickel bronze. I want to build up the fillet with nickel silver for aesthetic reasons. Are there any metallurgical issues I might run into using nickel silver for my second pass to build the fillet?