Update: going through the boxes, looks like I'm sitting on 50-60 bikes worth of tubes, rear ends included, and another 100 or so random unknown tubes.

Stuff includes, 5x sets of 853 pro team, ill measure the walls and diameters of each set soon, i think they are 1.1/.9/.6/.9 downtubes

10x s3 seat tubes, the weird ones that you need a seat tube shim to use, again, will measure soon

5 or 6 s3 35mm downtubes

Many random tt sample tubes

5x bikes of tange prestige ultimate

2x or 3x bikes of excell lo-pro tubes 28.6 st and 25.4 tt, both curved.

Whole bunch of what looks to be Columbus slx, I'm going to need to do a bit of research to confirm. But yes, internal rifling.

I've gone through 1/4 of the tubes at this point, will return with more info soon.

So, recently a prototyping shop closed down in a city near me. We picked up a huge alignment table and about 200 to 300 NOS tubes, 500 to 600 ritchey dropouts (both tabbed and socket) and a wack of 90s braze ons.Most of the tubing is 90s tange, ultimate mtb and the like, a pile of Reynolds 725 and 853, a little bit of shaped Columbus, and a couple odds and ends.

Now, here is the rub, I'm unlikely to build more than 2 or 3 more steel bikes in my life, and I already have those tubesets squirled away. So, this will all be up for grabs. I'm going to post on a couple frame building forums and on here before going on ebay. I just wanted to check on interest before I go and catalog the whole lot and wait on ebay.

I would be happy to move this at a steep discount on what tubes cost these days, I'm also I'm canada, so shipping may be crazy for others out there.

First complete frame built outside of a frame building course. I have been both to Yamaguchi and Dave Levy at Ti cycles classes. It was an experimentation and lugs with brass brazing. Made lots of mistakes that will carry on to the next build.

Hello,

Would you please help me on projecting a Ti frame? :)

I currently have a ~gravel bike built on a custom steel frame. The frame is basically a Marin FourCorners, but with a shorter head to accommodate a shock absorber and wit lowered top tube, also with some extra eyelets and cabling command unavailable in original Marin. I am in general satisfied with the bike, except for the one thing - it is extremely heavy. The weight is not (only the fault of the frame - I carry a lot of thing with me. Standard 100-150km trip means I got at least 3 bottles of water, powerbank, garmin, 2 celphones, 100ml of "emergency" milk, a flashlight, spare flashback battery etc. There are also mudguards and the rear rack.

As I make the winter maintenance/servicing now, I started to think on loosing a bit of weight here and there and this led me also to thinking on a possible frame replacement to a custom Ti one.

This is just a concept now, but I would like to think it well over and - if it happens - to order a really good frame that will stay with me for long...

I use the bike mainly on the paved roads, but sometimes also some gravel or wood tracks. Sometimes it appears that the track (almost) disappeared and I need to make it through something that would require rather a good MTB than a gravel. Anyhow, as a rule, paved track it is. Most commonly trips between 80 and 180km (sometimes some days in a row, with some extra load).

Current groupset is Shimano GRX815 (2x11 Di2), 28" wheels.

The current frame design is the following:

https://preview.redd.it/hwweit3j2zee1.png?width=1367&format=png&auto=webp&s=2c73d8565b8efde075a8b0eb581ce6c30b0ae44a

And this is the bike:

https://preview.redd.it/ptt38mew2zee1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71dbc6cb4282423b63930c49c5f007c9d6d81646

https://preview.redd.it/xtg92y923zee1.jpg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7c1d87e0220d7b40fe604c367d2c05694f8cd0a

As stated, I am satisfied wit the frame. The key parameters have been "authorized" by the bike fitter. It has anyhow some minor flaws, that could be adjusted in the new project:

* too little clearance between the crank and the chainstay
* uncomfortable to use cables passages
* UGLINESS ;)

Could you please advise me on how and if could I improve the current project and make it somehow "future oriented"? There are some things that raise my concerns:

1. What head standard should there be? Current damper is Axon Werx, 1,5" tapered
2. What dropouts should I want (vertical/horizontal/track? I think I got a vertical now, no idea about the other options)
3. What seat tube diameter?
4. How many bends on stays (0, 1 or 2)?
5. How many bands on top and bottom tubes (0, 1 or custom)?
6. How to make it less ugly? ;)
7. Should I ask fo KSA 18 or KSA 40 kickstand mount?
8. Brakes - IS mount, flat mount or post mount? Chainstay or seat stay?

Any hints and help would be much welcomed :)

Hey!

I'm designing a single pivot frame with my buddy for myself.

It will be a ~150mm enduro using a 210x50 or 55 rear shock, most likely air. His previous design is similar to Marino's, but I've heard they are regressive and designed around progressive air shocks.

I'm a big dude (~100 kg), while he's much smaller (~65 kg). I like a bit of progression and I think I will need it, since I weigh a lot. I also don't really like packing my shock full of tokens and ruining mid stroke support to gain a bit of bottom out resistance. Compression is my friend, I know, but cheap shocks may have a shitty compression adjustment range, or lack that. Therefore I'd like to work around it.

So, what determines a frame's progressivity in a single pivot layout, with no rockers or other links? One thing I've heard is to angle the shock downward (like Guerilla Gravity did), or place the pivot point forward of the bottom of the shock's stroke. Basically the shock's lower pivot never getting past perpendicular with the main pivot. Is this true? Any tips?

Thank you, Patrik

PFA, I'd like something similar. Geo numbers are set, but different from this.

I’m slowly getting into the world of frame building. I want to start with some less daunting tasks to see if I enjoy it before investing in equipment and tubing.

To begin, I plan to make small modifications to some spare frames I’ve collected over time. Such as adding bottle mounts or a damaged hanger, maybe even swapping a dropout

I have a decently equipped workshop, though I don’t own any welding equipment. However, I do have the basics covered, including files, wire brushes, an angle grinder, a drill, and a sander.

For brazing smaller repairs like the ones mentioned, would a MAPP gas torch be sufficient? It’s more affordable and accessible compared to an oxygen-acetylene torch. Would it also work for brazing on heavier chromoly frames?

Am I getting in over my head, or am I asking the right questions? Getting into this feels overwhelming, and I’m trying to start with something simple.

Hi im looking for making my first frame and i had no idea of workshops to buy in Europe Can anybody help me?

Here is video series on building:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWqUcPPpQhM&ab_channel=CafeExMachina%2CKokkola

https://preview.redd.it/maciojc1ykde1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b1d3fab185aaf920d5209ffecb67e8f4db80471d

https://preview.redd.it/zwtmzbi2ykde1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1b3f24f3e2198ac23d4d055239acd12f41b9b894

https://preview.redd.it/orgy9ac3ykde1.jpg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4db9df6b334ba902adf35d6dd346afed55feb1e6

It's a pretty nasty dent. It's a steel NJS track bike, I think it was retired from racing due to a crash where it got this dent. It's the top tube, around where a drop bar would hit it if it swung around too far.

Would love to be able to roll this out, fill it, smooth it and paint over it like it was never there. I know the likelyhood is probably low as it's a pretty big dent.

I assuming theres no hope since I think theyre broken on the tube not the lugg . But I've been needing an excuse to get a brazing kit and if this is salvagable i might give it a shot as something to practice on.

My ti frame seat post has been slipping. Seatpost is a Thompson, measures exactly 27.2. it doesn't wiggle but the sp collar looks like this when tightened. Does this seem normal?

Have a old Raleigh lugged frame with a JIS spec headtube where the bottom headtube seems to have ovalized (original fork steerer was bent pretty bad)

Original headset cups measured 30.0mm

ID Measurements are about 29.85mm and 30.0mm at the bottom headtube I can fit a JIS cup at the bottom by hand with no effort

The upper part of the headtube are not ovalized and a JIS cup fits fine and needs to be pressed in

I am planning to ream the headtube to fit ISO headset cups 30.25mm

Is it advisable to ream the bottom of the headtube slighty or should I just leave it and fit a 30.25mm cup?

I reckon to have read somewhere that a 0.5mm interference fit was common once with lugged headtubes with large wall thickness

Basically every frame I have ever seen for disc brakes uses full length housing guides. And I have NEVER seen a disc fork with cable stops. What is the reason for this? Is there a non-aesthetic reason? Would the bending of the fork affect brake performance if the housing was not full length? Is it just so frames can be compatible with hydraulic housing? I'm asking more out of curiosity than anything else.

Does anybody know of a frame builder who builds custom steel forks to look like carbon forks? I think this would look cool for those who don't want to use a carbon fork, but still like the carbon fork look. I have found the following that make titanium forks to look like carbon forks, but I haven't found anything that is steel:

Stanton Bikes

Sturdy Bikes

I am going to build my second bike and am I am curious where everyone buys their tubing from? I have been looking at both framebuildingsupply and bikefabsupply but both website has a lot of tubing sold out. Is there any place that consistently has inventory?

Does anyone know if this exists? I'd like to put a sturmey archer drum brake hub on a fork with 32mm diameter straight legs.

These are the only ones sturmey archer sells.

I suppose I could spread out the clamp I have and put it on with a hose clamp but I'd like to find a neater solution.

edit: the frame builder was moss bikes. It looks like he finally sent out the bike 2 weeks after it was last promised. If you go with him, make sure you agree on how and when he communicates with you. the work that he does looks good, but his communication and organization is horrible. I even put together a spreadsheet for all the bike parts, bike geometry, and any minor details discussed, but he seemed to have lost that information and needed to re-ask questions that were documented and finalized 8-10 months prior.

I put down a deposit on a frame for a guy in the UK - I live in the United States - back in November 2023 because I really liked the work that he had done. The geometry got finalized in January of 2024 and then the paint colors were finalized at the beginning of April. I fully paid for the frame at the end of April because I was supposed to go on a bike trip and was having a problem with the geometry that was causing it band pain. I think it was a mistake to fully pay for the frame. But I have asked for evidence of frame progress and have had to reach out out every time the date passed another deadline that he set. I have only seen a picture of the frame welded without the fork and without paint and this was 2 months ago.

I have built a frame before in a bike class and it took us all in the class to put the frame together in 2 weeks, so I know it shouldn't take this much time. It is now almost 8 months past the original deadline after the frame builder initially promised, and I am getting really impatient. Any advice? Has anybody had similar experiences? The most recent deadlines that he set for himself were 12/01/24, 12/13/24, and 12/30/24 (coming up). I essentially told him if it wasn't done by 12/30/24 (14 months from when I initially paid and 11 months since the geometry was finalized) that he just send me my money back.

Edit: Frame was sent out on 12/29/24 and the delivery says that it should arrive by 01/06/24.