/r/sportster
This is a technical subreddit!
Please only post technical data, DIYs, maintenance procedures, etc. Anything else, such as 'here's my bike' posts, should be posted to /r/Harley, /r/motorcycles, or /r/bikesgonewild.
The wiki provides manuals, recommended maintenance guidelines, schematics, and advice.
This is a technical subreddit!
Please only post technical data, DIYs, maintenance procedures, etc. Anything else, such as 'here's my bike' posts, should be posted to /r/Harley, /r/motorcycles, or /r/bikesgonewild.
/r/sportster
Selling my 2019 883 dont really ride anymore and dont want it just sitting there. Runs great no issues no accidents cared for like my baby. Any idea where i can sell this on or who is insterested?
So I picked up an 08 sporty a couple months back and it had some damage on the heat shields that cause it to rattle upon acceleration. It’s not really harming anything but the rattle annoys the hell out of me. I’m picking up some new pipes soon but in the meantime I’m thinking of just removing the heat shields. Aside from some ugly lookin blackened and hot pipes next to my leg, any other issues with running this way? Anyone done this with the short shots before?
I live in Perth Western Australia and it's quite hot here in peak summer. Temperatures are regularly in the high 30's & low 40's C or 100 - 110 F. I know my liquid cooled Triumph with a new radiator can handle it but if it's a hot day and the freeway turns into a carpark the needle rises to critical levels at low speeds. The temperature drops quite rapidly once you get moving at 100 K's or 60 MPH. I have a 2015 883 Iron which I plan to be my regular commuter. How will I know when engine temperatures are approaching critical? Is fitting an oil cooler a realistic option? Who has experience riding Sportsters in a hot city?
I'm trying to figure out what does changing the size of my rear pulley on my harley, it it pretty much the same as a bicycle bigger pulley more bottom end smaller rear pulley higher top end? Thanks for the advice. On a 2004 1200 harley sportster xl custom
What's up everyone. Doing a shameless plug for my sandcastings that I make when I have spare time. Check out my insta and leave a Follow, a kind word or better yet - buy something if You like it!
Working on some bird deflectors and CV top covers that I'll present soon.
Insta: artansandcasting
I have to wire in turn signals on an 89 sporty and there are no front signals. Do they wire into the headlight housing? Or does someone have a wiring diagram that is easy for a novice to read?
So I have an 89 883. And I am looking for option for rear fender strut mount options that will work that aren’t stock, also looking for options for tach and Speedo mounting. Let me see what you got!
Do I have to stick with analog or could I go with a digital?
Does anybody happen to know if this will fit with forward controls. The website doesn't have any info and the shape makes me not sure if it will.
So after many years of searching I've found a set of Axtell 88 inch Mountain Motor cylinders/pistons, so guess I'm building a Motor.
Want to keep my XB Buell headed Sportster engine for another project. I'll be looking for a 5 speed solid mount donor and wonder how much hassle and if it's worth the trouble of using the lighter Buell wheels?
Hey guys, I was wondering if there is a way to properly hook up an ignition to a motorcycle, in this case it's a Harley Sportster. Currently don't have the key but I'm waiting to have it made. I was told it started when I bought it but it had trouble starting. Figured I'd clean the spark plugs and charge up the battery while I was at it before getting a new key made. Me being impatient, checked on the Internet if there was a way to start a motorcycle without a key and I found a few forums and videos that lead me to believe it's possible...so yes it is, I was able to get it started with a toggle switch I had. Although it's an on/off/on switch. Research shows it's for applications like a lift for example so one on position is up and the other on position is for down while the middle position is cutting the circuit.
So I able to wire up the switch to the ignition by removing the key cylinder. It's plug and play setting, I stripped to wires and basically the middle wire is going to what I imagine is the power side of the ignition plug (white with blue stripe wire) and the on position wire is going into a key hole which I'm not sure what it's for yet until I get the key, but somehow it maybe grounds or completes the circuit but it gets the bike to turn on. I started it once and the bike fired up, pretty cool but I knew in a real world setting it would only last as long as the wires were in position and the key hole slot wasn't the most practical. Only other spot was on a steering stabilizer that gave power to the wire. It's weird but after all that back story. I wanted to wire it up properly to see if I can just install the switch as a hideway setup. Everything I've done so far though has given me terrible results.
The wires start smoking and burning the plastic off the wires. I grounded the ignition on one side which was a black wire and the white and blue striped wire from before being the ignition. So I grounded the black, and then vise versa. I kept the switch on the power side of the battery (positive+) which in most applications is where your power should come from. Then the on position was wired to either the black wire side of the ignition or the white and blue striped. Which I tried different combinations and still smoked the wires. I left the one on position wire free and then at one point I ended up grounding it also with no results. So I'm confused. I even had the switch wired up with the negative post on the battery also and still no power to the switch so I'm confused at this point. I feel like I just don't have the right switch for the application and no I've basically burned the plastic on the ignition plug. It still plugs the key in no problem but I'm left with only getting power by putting the two wires from the switch to the ignition and key hole. Any idea what I could do other than buying a new switch. Or just leaving the bike be until the key arrives.
I have hooked up led lights to my pick up truck with no issue and it was a 3 prong application. Although in this case, one was for the on position, another grounded and the other was just for lights on the switch so not important. I'm so confused
I seem to have misplaced my '89 float bowl and only have one from 92-03. I know the float design and float bowl design are slightly different... Has anyone done this with success?
Not sure if I want to trust the ones on eBay, seems too good of a deal. I thought I had a spare tucked away somewhere but that might have gone to someone else at some point when I was ready to light my old ironhead on fire. Either way it starts & runs constantly on the old keihin butterfly now but I find myself wanting that great relationship I have with my evo. That is to say it does exactly what I want when I want, and requires absolutely 0 fussing. The vacuum port would be nice too, hopefully run the voes and get decent mileage.
Only lead I have is this foreign kit
http://www.amm.haan.de/EFI_to_carb_XL_models/EFI_to_carb_XL_models.htm
Installing energy one kit soon. I know they recommend ATF or the HD formula plus. But I've read in old forum posts that the HD Form sometimes slip?
Anyone got first hand experience?
If so what brand ATF? or does that even matter as long as it's ATF?
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I have a 2004 883 and think the current pipes just have are a little bit obnoxious. I currently have a 2-2 Vance and Hines shorter style exhaust, which is nice to a degree, but, well, I can hear it echoing all the way down the neighborhood when I fire it up. It came with the bike, and I haven’t minded too much for awhile, but I’m interested nowadays in something more reasonable.
Essentially, I’d like something that’s a more than factory, in terms of sound and performance, but not too much so. I’ve gotten into 2-1 pipes lately, but have no real in person experience of what they’re like to live with. Give me some opinions of the exhausts you run and what you like about them. Anything to add to my knowledge helps at the end of the day
2008 883 with 1200 miles, good deal?
Just gonna rebuild the cv and store it for a backup, I want something simpler and snapper feeling
I'm trying to do a stunt build and i need to replace my clutch anyway. I need a good list of what parts I will need and what is going to need to be replaced so the clutch pull isn't so heavy.
Yo guys,
So I have some pretty large handle bars, and I think my current cables are sitting at 36 1/2" but I can't seem to find any that will fit my bike.
It's a 2000 1200xlc, and I was wondering if a newer set of cables, for something like a '07 or a '21, would retro fit for me?
There are more sizes in moderns years, and I am just trying so hard to replace mine but can't find any exact fits.
So anyone know if newer will fit older?
I’ve found them for 2015 and older but I got a 2016, anyway dealt with this on there 48! Any company you suggest?