/r/knifemaking
The world of Knifemaking
A helpful community for knife makers of all skill levels to talk about different techniques, steels, and tips for others. Show off your work and where you work here.
Let's make this a very helpful community.
1) Post anything related to knifemaking
2) All official AMAs must be Mod approved with verification.
3) Keep comments respectful and on topic.
4) Blatant advertising and for sale posts are not allowed. You are welcome to make transactions private. LINKS TO BLOGS AND WEBSITES ARE CONSIDERED SELF-PROMOTION.
5) Posts that address questions easily searched or answered in the WIKI will be removed.
User Submitted Content:
Kiln Build by meepstah
Large and in Depth List of Wood for Handles
Dirt Cheap Guide to Knife Forging
Useful links and Information:
Heat Treating Tool Box- Kevin Cashen's detailed guide to heat treating
Knife Shop Safety and PPE by Jim Ferguson (Downloadable, Right Click, Save As)
Absolute Cheapskate Way To Start Making Knives (PDF)
Bob Engnath Knife Patterns (PDF)
Nick Wheeler- Hand sanding 101 (YouTube)
Steel: The “welding steel” at Tractor Supply/ Lowes/ Home Depot is mild steel and useless for knives Buy new, known, annealed blade steel. It is well worth it. Files, railroad spikes, lawnmower blades and other unknown steels can definitely be used for practice forging but will not perform for a knife. For the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use known good steel.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheap & made for DIY heat-treat. http://njsteelbaron.com/ Phone # 862-203-8160
His telephone service is better than his website.
Heat Treating:
Heat Treating Basics Video (downloadable) Right click and save this and watch it often
Kevin Cashen Heat Treating Info
Heat Treat services:
Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only A2, ATS34, Elmax, CPM154, 154CM, 440C etc.
Buck Knives- Paul Bos Heat Treating
Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steels Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084, 52100, 5160 Or air quenched A2, ATS34, Elmax, CPM154, 154CM, 440C etc.
Knifemaker CA (Canadian)
-Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs
Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goddard's Goop Quench, Motor Oil, Transmission Fluid
Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type Here is a good post by Kevin Cashen with the Explanation and classification of oil speeds
For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find a Eutectoid steel 1080, 1084. Grocery store canola oil can work well -if you use clean preheated oil
Brine and water are cheap for "water hardening" steels W1 and 1095, but use fast oils Parks 50 & Houghton Quench K If you use water or brine, expect broken blades!
/r/blacksmith is great for general blacksmithing tips beyond knives
/r/Bladesmith is great for those interested in forging knives
Check out /r/ChefKnives for all things regarding culinary cutlery
Gunsmithing /r/gunsmithing
Want a knife made? /r/MakerMesh
Like general knife discussion? /r/knives is the place for you.
Making knives isn't your thing, but the metal still calls? Here ya go: /r/metalworking
Need help with a different type of craft besides steel? Search here: /r/ArtisanHelp
Want to talk about knives and share yours? /r/knifeclub
Buy/Sell/Trade:
/r/knifemaking
Hey y'all! I'm a Navajo Bladesmith who makes knives and incorporates Navajo designs into my knives! Lmk what y'all think!
Some 1095 and old files. Forge comes in next week to do the heat treat!
I had some off cut of go mai billets i made (when cutting materials to make the tang) , decided to use it as cladding to make a small piece. I love the result. I might try to stack more pieces to make more black lines and i'm just in love with copper
Any tips of removing scratches like this?
I have tried a few times but they are still there. It was suggested that you guys here might have a better idea.
Is flitz ok to use?
I have tried some green compound and a cloth. Inwas recommended to get a polishing wheel for my dremel but I wanted to make sure that was not to extreme.
Thank you for any help.
Hi there,
I'm starting again on blacksmithing, learned it years ago and I can finally take some time to enjoy it again, including knifemaking.
I purchased 80CRV2 steel for my knives but today, my local mechanic (I live in a very small city) told me he had a lot of free steel that I could use, which includes mainly suspension rods and braking discs.
I did some spark testing and some hardness testing but I have no idea what kind of steel is usually used for this kind of thing and if it's useable at all. I don't have access to a laboratory that could tell me so I'm left with trying to know what's usually used for this kind of pieces and assume from that.
Do you guys have any experience with this kind of steel? it looks like steel because the broken parts have black-ish rust layer, it's magnetic and sparks look something like 1045 maybe, but that's about all I know and I couldn't find more online about the kind of steel used for this.
Can anyone tell me how the people on ETSY make those mosaic pins with wolves and American flags and pins with a picture design in them? Do they use 3d printers to do or are they machining them
Decided to make a companion piece for the Kephart I made recently, let me know what you think!
Acid stonewashed 1095 with micarta scales, G10 liners and steel pins.
I was gifted a good bit of 80crv2 that was purchased from Amazon. Saluinoki is the vendor. Does anyone have any experience with this supplier that can tell me if it’s ok steel? I am going to quench a piece to see if it hardens but I do a lot of commission stuff and don’t want to give questionable steel to a paying customer.
80crv2 60 hrc 16 inches OAL Carbonfiber handle
Can I auction a knife here? (Probably not) But could I post that I am auctioning something with a link to a website?