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Top blade I made 3 years ago, my 10th blade and first I tried some handle shaping with. Middle is a takedown I made 2 years ago and my first knuckle bow guard. Bottom is one I started last year but came back to a few weeks ago after a long break. Still in progress but I think it’ll turn out to be one of my better ones.

All are about 18in blades and made from (Top to bottom) 1085 and 15N20.

Good afternoon,

I am faced with a problem. I have etched hollow ground knives with vg10 core before and then put a micro bevel on it. But realised if I want to do this with a full convex, when I go to sharpen it the etching of the core steel will disappear. Has anyone figured out how to etch a full convex from top to edge without sharpening it prior to etching (I was told not to due to it eroding the edge).

Many thanks

If I built some feather damascus billets, would anyone be interested in buying some. I’m in west Texas.

I want to buy a new tool to speed up process of making knifes for me. I have 1x30 belt grinder ( I don't want a new one). And I am looking for tool that isn't very big.

I field tested my first design and concluded i needed a much beefier handle. So here it is.

I must say i is actually quite good. I think it will be my new field knife.

hi I was looking into making my own knife since i found no knife that I really liked that fit my specs online, and was wondering what steel would be best? I heard about cpm m4 but I would also like to hear others opinions.

I am thinking of a kinda straight edge (mostly cause i am a shit sharpener), maybe a chisel knife, used for prying, hacking, carving and chiseling and just probably generally abusing the knife until I need to sharpen it again or if it snaps

I looked through manufacturers and I don't really like the market stuff right now, mora isn't shipped to me, the other cheap one I just don't see good of, the fatmax is also not in my area, garrett wade also I think uses a stainless steel and I really don't care about rust and just want the thing to be guaranteed to last in my hands and anyways i plan for it to just be abused and shit i dont need looks, could probably coat the knife anyways if the rust is that bad, the pocket knife one I don't trust to last when chiselling or prying

Hi Yall,

Getting into knives and knife making and looking to purchase my first belt grinder. So far I have been having a really hard time finding a cheap one to get into it. I have always been a woodwork and have never had an issue finding used tools for a reasonable price, but that doesn't seem to be the case for metal working.

Currently looking for a used Grizzly 2x42, or a used 2x72. I was hoping to spend around $2-300 with the expectation that I would have to do some cleanup work to get it working well, but I am having trouble finding anything being sold for less than a 800 to a 1000.

I am located in central California for reference.

Thanks

Hello

My knife came a bit warped out of heat treat. It was done at heat treatment plant and the gys there said they can't make it any flatter than this (which apparently is true because I had them redo it once). Now I have this blade that is bent one milimeter to the side and it's driving me nuts. Is there any way to straighten it? The steel is type 400 (or 420, I forgot), 4 mm thick and the hardness is 55 HRC. I don't have a carbide tip hammer and I have no way of getting one. Will three point jig work, or will my knife fimply snap in it?

I’m wanting to get into knife making and would like to build a fixed blade in MagnaCut. Is there anywhere online to buy precut magnacut blades or do you have to do the cutting yourself?

Brand new to this so any tips or recommendations are welcome!

I’m having trouble with the floor of the forge melting and sticking to my work piece. I used a fireplace cement in it one time to try and pull out a hamon, but not any flux. Is there something I can do to resurface the bottom? More pictures in the comments.

All will have micarta handles