I got this forge a couple weeks ago, and put it together about a week ago and everything was fine. But I needed to get into the shed I put it in till I could use it and saw it rusted a little right there. Will it be a problem and if so can I just use household chemicals to remove it or can that damage and/or release toxins when I begin forging?

As the title says I want to begin blacksmithing. I am completely novice with most of the aspects of the art but am hoping to get advice as to where I should start or if there were any smiths in the same area as me I could apprentice to. I am just looking for advice as to where to even begin. Any help is most appreciated.

hi again blacksmith brothers, I'm about to temper my first knife and I'm not sure how sharp I can sharpen the edge before tempering. I was thinking of using up to 400 grit and after tempering continue up to 1200

is a 1095 steel btw, and tempering on kitchen oil (first knife remenber)

thanks you again for the great comunity

My first Damascus knife! I'm very happy with it and the handle turned out great! Although I had to file the handle by hand...

Hey guys,

I visited my local scrapyard to see what's there, and I've seen some old files, some old files,wrenches, coil springs, some rods and some square bars etc..

How can you tell which material is good for forging? For knife making? Is that something you can tell at the scrapyard or do you find out later in your workshop?

Thanks

Do you think this design of flypress can handle blacksmithing? It comes with many dies and the price is good, but I normally see a different design being used. Thanks!

Made from a railroad clip (not spike). Stabilized walnut burl handle with brass pins and bolster.

So I just started blacksmithing today and my anvil won’t stop bouncing. It’s a dinky little anvil that can’t weigh more than 8 pounds but it’s all I got right now. Whenever I hit it it bounces around and I have to readjust it basically every other hit. Is there anyway I can make it more secure and stop it from bouncing? Thanks in advance and I look forward to being apart of this community!

My handling method is sand off finish to 120 grit then scorch, and then finally finishing it off with a touch of BLO.

First off... I'm about as green as they come. My blacksmithing experience doesn't extend much past having an anvil and small forge and watching hours of YouTube videos legitimately trying to learn. But I know knowledge comes from physical experience. So I try every chance i get.. I saw a guy (homestead forge) using an 8lb hammer to do most of his bulk shaping. Is this a normal practice?? I was always under the impression that a 4lb hammer is kind of the limit to hand forging before you go to a power hammer. So my question is as previously stated... what's the heaviest hammer you guys use regularly? And is that weight dictated at all by your anvil size? Mine is 200lbs for those that may ask and I've been using a 2lb hammer.

My Brother and I are working on making a framing slick (basically a giant wood chisel). We took a piece of leaf spring (5160), cut it to shape and forged it flat. Now we just need to harden it. Unfortunately my oil quench tank was left at a friends house and I don't have time to make a new one.

Is it possible to quench 5160 in water? The Slick will be left very thick and we're only quenching the edge, maybe the final 2 inches.

So what is y'all's input on using W1 or W2 for making hot cut chisels and other hot tools out of? My theory would be once they start getting toasty I can re-quench in water and that would not only cool them off but also reharden as well correct? I'm new to this game and just thinking of ideals to make some hand tools out of, steels im thinking about using are W1,W2,H13, or S7 so what do you all think? Also how big of a starting round stock should i start with is half inch big enough to make a hot cut chisel out of or should i go bigger? I don't have any power equipment with the exception of angle grinder, and belt sander. I plan on bladesmithing and blacksmithing