A little background to start, I bought a 1988 F350 with a 7.3 IDI about 9 months ago as a project. The truck ran solid, would start up on the first cycle and never really had an issue beyond some rust and a leaking main fuel tank.

In January we moved and I drove the truck 2 hours with zero issues. I parked it in a Quebec garage/car tent and would start it periodically and let it run for about 15-20 min. Now that the weather is starting to turn and it’s warmer out, the plan is to start working on it but I cannot get it running. It cranks and cranks and cranks but will not start. I figured it was a fuel issue so I’ve taken a few steps to check.

Firstly, I checked for fuel/fuel pressure at the fuel filter which is good, there is fuel coming from the schrader valve on the filter housing (Note: there is an electric fuel pump on the fuel line from the tank). Secondly, I checked the fuel shut off valve to see if it was stuck and it seems to be functioning normally (same with fuel return solenoid). Thirdly, I checked for fuel at the engine, which I seem to be getting as there is fuel coming from the cracked injectors.

My only two thoughts could be bad glow plugs but I checked 4/8 and they seem to be fine. Or it’s an IP problem. I have ordered 8 new glow plugs (zd-9) as a precaution anyway.

Is there anything else that could cause a no start? I’m not a mechanic, just someone that likes to tinker so please treat me like I’m 10.

2011 6.7 CCLB Lariat

Yesterday while warming up the truck, it shut down unexpectedly while I was throwing some tools in the back. Dash read:

Engine overtemp Low oil pressure Service advancetrac Hill descent control fault "Wrench icon"

Scrolling through the dash I found Odometer now reads ------.- mi Oil temp reads ---°F Oil life remaining reads ---% DTE reads ---.- mi to E

Plenty of coolant, oil level good and no obvious signs of head gasket failure or anything like that. I disconnected both batteries and performed a load test indicated both were good. Reconnected and found no change, all indicators still there.

Generic OBD2 codes show nothing. I've ordered a MS-CAN/HS-CAN auto switching cable and will get FORscan (lol) running when it arrives. Hopefully I am able to gain some insight with that.

Any ideas? The traction/HDC lights coming on at the same time really confused me, and the fact that ODO and oil sensors aren't giving out any readings has me extra confused. I've heard of similar issues being caused by a shorted battery or bad ground. When it quits raining I'll do some continuity checks. Wondering if anyone else has any insight

Hello all, first time posting on Reddit hopefully this is the right place. I have a 99 that I bought from my dad 6 years ago. It has 270k on it and it’s time for injectors. I don’t want anything fancy or big or crazy. Just want to install some OEM or OEM plus injectors. What’s the best route to go? Want to be happy and can’t find a definitive set to buy.

I have a 2011 F-150 FX4 5.0 V8 with 174,xxx miles. This guy im talking to wants to trade for his bulletproofed 2003 F-250 XLT 6.0 V8 Diesel with 173,xxx miles. He says there is absolutely nothing wrong except for a crack in the windshield and the tires rubbing at full turn. Mine also has nothing wrong with it other than 2 very small dents and i just had the oil pan gasket replaced because it was leaking. The photo is his proof of bulletproof. What do you guys think?

Back again, just finished up a days worth of work replacing injectors, glow plugs and wiring harness. Truck fired up after a bit of cranking, runs good but is blowing quite a bit of smoke from the exhaust. The oil rail drain plugs were rounded out so I did not take those out before removing the injectors. I did pull all possible fluid from cylinders prior to dropping new injectors in, and also turned the crank by hand for probably 4 full revolutions prior to putting glow plugs back in. I have not taken the truck for a drive yet, but am planning on getting at least 50 miles on it tomorrow to see if it goes away. Anything obvious I’m missing as to why it’d be blowing so much smoke? It smells more like burning oil than fuel.

All help is appreciated.

I ordered the S&B, but then it was back ordered. I decided to order the Sinister pipe, and they shipped/arrived at the same time. I don’t care for the blue color on the Sinister (but really don’t give a shit), however, what I’m curious about is the S&B being 3.5” in diameter versus 3” for the Sinister and OEM. Is there any advantage to going with the S&B? I briefly read that given the larger size, it would take longer to create boost.

Do you know any place that sells just the orange high side turbo drain seal. All places sell the whole kit. Did an oil cooler recently and had a hard time putting the turbos back on and now I got oil running down the back of the block.

Does anyone know if I can have an ecm out of a 2005-2007 6.0 reprogrammed to work in a 2003-2004?

Thermostats are normally easy on these trucks. That is unless someone put liquid gasket on it.

Hi all, if this isn’t allowed, please remove.

I am looking for your help to price and sell a 2003 F-350 SRW Lariat crew cab 7.3L diesel. I have had it for about 5 years and is still a great truck, but it is time to move to something smaller.

It has about 440,000 miles, In the past 50,000 miles it has had the transmission rebuilt with a high stall torque converter, the flywheel gear replaced, new single shot injectors and glow plugs, and is going into the shop next Friday to get an oil leak from the dipstick repaired.

It also has an Air Dog fuel pump, a turbo back 4-inch exhaust, an AFE power intake, a Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Electronic Brake Control, and a B&W turnover gooseneck hitch.

It has The Retro Fit Source Hid projectors in the main headlight housing and fog light (both returnable to stock with new housings)

The interior is clean with minor wear and tear. The exterior is a little rough, with some sun damage, rock chips, and dents. The dents are on the driver’s side by the bumper, where a log hit it, and the driver’s front door, where a horse bumped into it.

The truck has been sitting for a month or so due to the oil leak so I don’t have any photos until I clean it up.

So, my question is what to ask for it, and where to post it? The fix for the oil leak is about $800-$1900 to fix. I was thinking about asking $10k for it and putting it on CL, FB market place and maybe eBay.

Okay it’s a 2014 ford 6.7 diesel with 144,000 miles. All of a sudden it’s got no power when it has a load on the trailer.

Throwing codes P20E8, P228, P24A0

What is y’all’s best bet on the issue

Anybody in here good with the engines in these? Trying to confirm a few issues i am having with mine. Recently had a crank no start issue. Managed to find out that the fuel pump relay in the fuse box was melted. Bought a new fuse box. During replacement i noticed that the junction box (where the positive cable from the fuse box meets the other large positive cables) was corroded to all get out. Replaced the junction and all the other cables. Now the truck starts and runs. But now i am getting a P1209, P1211, and P1316 code. And the truck runs like hell. Im thinking its a bad IPR or IPS (or maybe both). I have a new HPOP and HPOP oil lines i planned on doing soon.

Also all new front end and steering components, shocks, engine components all replaced, frame sand blasted and painted, new bed rails, led projector lights, upgraded stereo and speakers.

I just purchased a 2018 450 with the 6.7 and I’m looking for recommendations on where to purchase the tune & other components needed.

I’m reasonably mechanically inclined so I believe I’ll be able to do it myself.

I understand the potential risks, etc.

Hello all. I have a 2003 F250 Lariat xtra cab that Im looking to upgrade to a nice Nav/Radio setup. Something that I can see with my old eyes, so maybe 10 inch screen or so.

Recomendations on an Android setup?

Thanks

Hey everyone,

Curious if anyone uses this on their truck.

https://www.mcssl.com/store/prioritystart/12vpromaxhd

Im assuming using one on each battery that they should be up to the task?

Thanks in advance.

Have a 2001 F350 needing exhaust, have been eyeing the MBRP 4” turbo back, but wondering if anyone has heard both the race and street profiles in person and can tell me which sounds better. This truck is just a weekend truck, hauling a dump trailer or a boat, so I could stand it to be a bit louder. Also have been hearing positive things about the Diamond Eye systems. Your experiences and options are welcomed.

What’s everyone’s thoughts on doing a transmission flush. I have had my truck for just over a year and don’t know if the last guy kept up with the transmission maintenance. But my last ford I did a flush in I ended up losing the whole trans. So I just wanna see what everyone would recommend just bite the bullet and risk losing my trans or just leave it alone.

I have a water leak coming from the overhead light/upfitter panel. It’s also coming from the right side A-pillar. Everytime I turn right is when the water comes dripping out which makes me thing the water is just sitting somewhere on the right side of the cab up top. Any ideas?

So I picked up a new torque wrench and I was setting the oil cap. Well my torque click or anything so I went way to far and now my oil filter cap is stuck on. Of course trying to take it off just rounded the plastic but so now I’m here lost of what to do.

Please help this stupid fuck.

edit* So I managed to get off. I used a filter vice grip that I put on with a pair of channel locks. I then put on another vice grip on the rounded nut and attempted to turn both at the same time and freed it. Now I need a new oil filter cap any suggestion?

I got a 97 ford f250 7.3 5speed it has a 6 position tuner and swamps tunes, my 6th tune I have no idea what it’s for it seems to shut down something cause it white smokes like crazy. Wondering if any of you know what this could be?

So I have a 2015 250 6.7. I want to put a heavier leaf package in as I am always carrying a full tidy tank, tools, and at least a few passengers, and I get quite a bit of sag in the rear end. I have a friend who has a set of 2019 350 springs brand new. Will they fit? Does anyone know if the mounting has changed from 15-19? Thanks for the info.

I have an ‘03 Excursion w/7.3 230k miles, auto that I recently bought. It seemed a bit low on power and then after a few weeks started to stumble/shudder/shimmy and have a hard time running. I checked the IPC sensor and it was full of oil on the contacts and I unplugged it and the truck ran the same. No error codes. After replacing the IPC sensor and wiring harness/plug, it started running much better but still had some power issues around 30-40mph, especially up grades For the first time in month of owning it, I was able to get it up to 80mph+. Before, seemed capped out at 70. But still, at those higher speeds, it seems to have a stumble under load and definitely struggling up hills at lower speeds.

This morning, for the first time, it belched out a ton of white smoke that cleared up after a few minutes. It is a little cold at about 50° this morning. I’m suspecting the IPR valve. There are no codes and I can’t check pressures with MX+ code reader and FORScan app.

The dealership where I got the IPC said the IPRs aren’t anywhere in their system. They said all of the dealers are out of stock and they can’t find any at their warehouses that they use. Do y’all have any good sources for IPRs that are reliable? I’ve heard a thousand horror stories about the generic stuff and I know the people selling the “Motorcraft” ones on eBay for $55 are scammers.

Been looking around for a monitor with or without tuning ability for my '16 6.7. Mainly want something to assess egt, regen countdown/dpf %, maybe eco and towing tunes.

Anyone have any advice, suggestions, or experience they'd care to share? Truck is stock and regularly towing multiple horses over mostly flat terrain. Just looking to ensure longevity and be proactive towards any building unseen issues.

Thanks

99 4x4 7.3 w/ 126k. Original owner used to tow 30’ 5th wheel. I have not been towing but will likely begin this summer with a small cargo trailer and eventually maybe bumper pull travel trailer. Last couple summers have had transmission overheat slightly a couple times after some steep/loose slow climbs up mountain roads and leak a bit from the bell housing. Seems like this is an issue with front seal and undersized cooler? Looking to replace this seal and install upgraded cooler and just wondering what y’all would recommend specifically in terms of parts or other upgrades. Tranny currently doesn’t slip and hoping these upgrades might get me another 125k before a rebuild. Cheers.

Edit for clarity.