So, here is an update on the black and white smoke issue...EGR valve is unplugged, truck runs better but:

With the EGR valve unplugged, there is no more black smoke and no loss of power on take off...But there is white smoke when I come to a stop and idle at a light (probably related to the EGR cooler/oil cooler). The strange part is, when I come to a stop, after about 8 seconds I get a plume of white smoke; then it stops, until the next light...happens for the whole drive doesn't stop after so many minutes of driving.

EDIT: 2006 6.0 F350 - 400,000 miles (I am not sure if this is the original engine).

I have a 2003 6.0. New thermostat about a year ago and temps looked fine. Cruising 65 mph ect temps were 190-192 eot about 198-200.

Temps cruising at 65 mph now are ect 182-184 and eot are still about 198-200.

Did my new thermostat go bad already or is there something else that could be causing this?

Just to add, outside temps right now are 55-60 so not super cold out.

She’s got 380,450 miles on her. Runs like a dream. Willing to share everything about it for whoever wants to hear.

So it's a 2001 f350 7.3. I did a manual trans swap it was a auto. Now with a tuner to tell the truck it's a standard my cruise control doesn't work. I'm I missing something. Not sure why it's not working.

Found a pinhole in one of my lines. Had a slow drip of diesel fuel. It was right where the line goes through the bracket. So until my lines come in from online... This will have to suffice. Lol

I own a 93 F250 IDIT, likely buying a 1990 F350 CCLB parts truck soon here. What would it all take to swap out my TTB to the solid axle?

Any other parts aside from the entire drive line to steal before it goes to scrap? Body is trash and I don't have a place to park it

Instead of dropping $80k on a new truck I was leaning more towards taking my 7.3 to a shop and having him go to town on it. The most I’ve spent at a shop is nowhere near what I’m guessing the price tag will be. If it were you, what would you have done and how much do you think it would cost you? It was passed down to me so I can’t get rid of it. I daily drive it and use it for road trips. I’m not really worried about the money.

Am I the only one who sees the fuel gauge go from little past full tank mark to 7/8ths in what feels like 2 miles thinks “fuck this thing chugs diesel” then it stops and goes down normally. Found it funny but also curious if that’s something everyone sees or just me and I have to replace something.

01’ f450 towing approx 20k lbs

My first super duty. 85000 miles. I love the truck but it's killing me with repair bills. I just need body mounts for the rear end but it seems like I am forced to buy a whole set and they are rather expensive. Any suggestions for less expensive solution?

Hey all,

New to the excursion and 6.0 world. Attached is what happened to the truck today. Bought this truck with a sinister diesel alternator (and many other upgrades) and was working fine, no issues for the past 8-9 months.

Kept getting intermittent flashing battery light on the dash today, so I popped the hood to find one of the connectors loose and melted the housing box. I’m not knowledgeable when it comes to electric work. Any thoughts on what happened/ where to start with repairing? This just happened today and I’m scratching my head as to why. Thanks!

This is the kit that was in the truck:

https://sinisterdiesel.com/i-24089092-sinister-diesel-high-amp-400a-wiring-upgrade-kit.html

Truck had jasper engine installed, new turbos, would intermently lose power and die. Rail pressure was weak installed new high pressure pump and icp. Fixed rail pressure problem. Truck some days runs fine, some days will instantly die. Fuel system is always full of air at schrader valve on fuel cooler after dying. Just dropped tank, sending unit and everything looked good. Now pulling low pressure pump even though it was replaced by ford. Any ideas?

We’ve been chasing issues with our F550 chassis can where I work trying to figure out why we have NO real lights at all. Pulled and replaced a 30A fuse and that fixed brakes and turns but still no tail lights. Can’t find ANY other blown fuses anywhere and all the other body lights work right now.

Any ideas?

Anyone in here have one done up like this looking for some info and such 87 f350 6.9 idi

EDIT: I bought the truck for 13k last summer, Blew the headgasket I’m about to pick it up and they want 17k all in for all the work. It's been at the shop for about 2 months now. They did a bunch of other stuff on the truck as well, but did I get ripped?

39.00 LABOUR TO PERFORM REQUIRED GATOR 6.0 HEAD STUDS GLOW PLUG OEM HPOP INSTALLATION KIT STAND TUBES ENGINE PLUG THERMOSTAT ASSY 6.0 TURBO INSTALL KIT WIRE ASSY GLOW PLUG HARNESS WIRE ASSY GLOW PLUG HARNESS BLUE SPRING KIT- PRESSURE REG. EGR60 KIT WATERPUMP 6.0

SIDE LABOUR RECON. HEADS CABLE ASSY HEATER W/RESET FUSE CCV KIT ADAPTOR FITTING RAIL SEAL KIT 6.0 CAP ASSY 6.0 HEAD SET 18MM DOWEL 6.0 TURBO INSTALL KIT OIL COOLER KIT IPR VALVE 05-07 CONNECTOR LOCK EXH MANIFOLD EXH MANIFOLD BOLT MANIFOLD SPACER MANIFOLD VALVE COVER TUBE OIL FILL UP-PIPE HARDWARE 6.0 SCREW HEX FLANGE HEAD HIGH TONE HORN LOW TONE HORN ROCK ARM ASSY HARDWARE

BATTERYGP 65 45HP CUSTOM ENGINE TUNING OIL FILTER FUEL FILTER KIT RED COOLANT 50/50 TRANS FLUID SYNTHETIC ATF 4 POWER STEERING FLUID Materials & Consumables 100.00

White 2003 F250 7.3L Lariat Crew Cab 2 Wheel Drive with 140,000 miles on it.

-I am the second owner. First owner was my Dad who rarely drove it

-Paint and body in great shape for its age (No body damage)

-Leather interior and overall 8/10

-Injector Cups/Steering box just replaced

-Front end all rebuilt

-No rust (Southern Texas truck all its life)

- Hydra Chip with 6 custom tunes

- Full 4" Exhaust

-SB CAI

-Aftermarket radio with backup cam

-Two 10" subs + 2 amps

-Aftermarket Headlights with HIDs

-Leveled

07 f250 Needing help stranded in Big bend national Park very remote truck was running fine then the last few days I noticed that it was taking a little longer than normal to crank and was a bit sluggish at low speeds I attributed it to the cooler temperatures in the morning here and the terrain being a little steeper for the sluggishness but all the sudden I stopped at one point to take a few pictures and then the truck would not fire back up cranks but no start sounds like it's not getting fuel I suspect the IPR valve but don't really have any tools or anything to test with I did recently change all injectors stand pipes dummy plugs and oil cooler about 1500 mi ago I've got a ride to the auto parts store going to be on the way shortly but it's going to be a 2-hour drive minimum to get there if anyone has any other tips or things I should look at please let me know by the way I'm not a new reditor I just can't get into my old account for some reason with my new phone FML

The truck in question: 2011 f350 king ranch 6.7 deleted Crew cab short bed It has a tuner but I'm not sure what one Very minor rocker rust Bed probably needs replacement as there are some soft spots under the spray on liner.

My friends father mentioned the other day about getting ready to sell his truck. I mentioned that I may be interested in it. A few days later after doing some research I decided to ask him about what he's looking to get out of it. If he wanted to trade it in or sell it our right. He brought up since it's deleted he can't trade it in. I never even thought about that. When I about price I was expecting something in the 20k area maybe a little less. This guy told me he'd sell it for 10‐12k and I have first dibs if I want it.

The main reasone I'm posting this is I know it's the first year for the 6.7 and I'm not usually one to get the first model year of anything. I like things after they have worked out the bugs. I know this guy has meticulously taken care of this truck. He's the second owner and he's the one who had it deleted. His mechanic who I also know (not on a super personal level) is the only guy he's ever had work on it. He's also an absolute beast of a diesel tech. Is there anything I should be concerned about? Maybe something to keep any eye out for? At 170k miles I really feel like this thing is pretty sorted out. I feel at 10k even if the motor blew up I could replace it and still be in the green. Thanks in advance.

i have a FASS 140 installed and i notice that the secondary fuel bowl does not hold fuel when the truck shuts off. is this normal or should it hold fuel. i wanted to do the bubble test and it drains out so i don't think the test will work. can someone educated me to why the bowl drains down with the truck off and having a Fass 140 fuel system installed. thanks

tracking/dealing with a white smoke and black smoke issue. Is it okay to drive with the EGR valve unplugged for an extended time ?

Can someone please take a look at this invoice and see if this guy is getting off on me thanks!

Have any of you installed this? I’m looking at purchasing and installing but I suck with electrical.

Working on rebuilding the turbo for my ‘99 F250. Trying to remove the compressor wheel but it just spins in place with resistance. I’ve got a socket on the other side making sure the shaft isn’t spinning but it won’t thread off. Not too experienced with working on turbos themselves hopefully I’m just being an idiot about something

I'm looking for some possible advice! Today while driving, my truck randomly shut off with no warning. Just shut off like a light switch with no puttering. Pulled over and after about 3 cranks it fired right back up. I was at 1/4 tank of diesel and was headed to fill up after work. Also, just recently had the mechanical lift swapped for electrical. What could it be? Thanks!

Added a CTS3 Insight for a trip. My EOT and ECT are showing at a 40+ Difference(EOT is at 240 and ECT 198 the analog gauges are not showing an overheat situation- no white colored smoke billowing out. No codes. No check engine lights here yet. Is the device not working or am I.crazy. When will the truck match the info