Posting to see if anyone can verify if having a stepped lip to a barrel on a rim will improve ride quality or if it's noticeable?

For context im looking at a 19" rim with a stepped inner barrel of 18". This reduces sidewall which would reduce ride comfort, but my volume of air shouldn't see as much of a change and im not sure how this will affect ride quality. 🤔 is this negligible and sidewall is the ride quality factor, or is how much the wheel can form to the road just as important?

I'm currently on 18s which as far as I read is the money move but the rims I want only come in this option and I couldn't find any input on the web. Thanks in advance!

with two ring coilovers can i still use loose preload to go lower? or would it be better to invest in some swift springs? my rear coils are maxed out but still have some thread to drop and i want to go a lil lower in the rear for the moment

Hello, i'm new to this but how do people have their wheels tucked in so far up in the fender and not touching the inner fender liner? Or is it removed completely? I want to replicate this look on my e46. Picture above

I can't get the front any lower with half the motor removed lol, but I think it's binding up on the sway bar.

I'm in the middle of rebuilding the VR6 after 3 years of GT3582 abuse. The plan is to drop it too low to drive fast and keep my license for a whole summer. It's been down for 3 years. I can't wait to drive this thing again 🙏

2002 Camry LE 5 speed. eBay coilovers. 16k front and 12k rear springs. 18x8 +42 steelies from a Ford Explorer police interceptor on 215/40's

My ‘new to me’ 2011, 2.5L Nissan Elgrand Highway Star.

Coilovers, 20” Work Pietra CT1’s, front lip, LED lights and window tints.

Any ideas for spring rates for a 2018-2023 BMW 540I RWD?

BC Racing default rates are 8K/4.2K, Silver's Neomax and Megan is 10K/6K, Function+Form is 10K/5K, ECS is 8K/6K, K-Sport is 9.8K/8.7K, Rev 9 is 8K/5K, SF Racing is 14K/6K.

I'm looking for an aggressive/slammed drop with aggressive wheels that stick slightly beyond the fender on stretched tires. I'd imagine those rates above are for slightly dropped cars. Of course I want the impossible, and want as as much comfort as possible, so not looking for anything super extreme (I had 16K/14K on my E39 which although is a different chasis, has the same front and rear suspension, and approximate same weight/weight distribution and it was HORRIBLE LOL) That said, I'm willing to go as low and as aggressive as possible without comprimising ride quality to the level my E39 was at lol.

Thoughts?

Hello everyone, I am looking to get some new wheels/ tires for my 2017 mustang. I will be getting 305s on the rear and moving my 275s to the front. What size wheel setup should I get to have flush fitment on the front and rear for that tire size?

Has anyone cut there bump stops? I read on a forum that one guy was lowered on springs and he cut his front ones in half and said it was a better ride. Anyone else? Mine is not slammed but it is a horrible ride smh. Thanks

So i used to have this issue where my fuses would blow and my controller for the bags would die. I changed both check valve’s, I run a double viair compressors. The issue stopped for like a week. Then it started coming back today, I noticed that my passenger side bag is at 22 where usually it would be at 60, so it deflated quite a bit. I have my psi normally would stop at 180, and I slowly notice it drop by 1 until it reaches 160 then it would shut off. Another thing i want to add is that usually it is 1 fuse that blows but i am not sure which compressor it is. I have a feeling that It can be a cause of a bad compressor. What can make the psi go down?