/r/knifemaking
The world of Knifemaking
A helpful community for knife makers of all skill levels to talk about different techniques, steels, and tips for others. Show off your work and where you work here.
Let's make this a very helpful community.
1) Post anything related to knifemaking
2) All official AMAs must be Mod approved with verification.
3) Keep comments respectful and on topic.
4) Blatant advertising and for sale posts are not allowed. You are welcome to make transactions private. LINKS TO BLOGS AND WEBSITES ARE CONSIDERED SELF-PROMOTION.
5) Posts that address questions easily searched or answered in the WIKI will be removed.
User Submitted Content:
Kiln Build by meepstah
Large and in Depth List of Wood for Handles
Dirt Cheap Guide to Knife Forging
Useful links and Information:
Heat Treating Tool Box- Kevin Cashen's detailed guide to heat treating
Knife Shop Safety and PPE by Jim Ferguson (Downloadable, Right Click, Save As)
Absolute Cheapskate Way To Start Making Knives (PDF)
Bob Engnath Knife Patterns (PDF)
Nick Wheeler- Hand sanding 101 (YouTube)
Steel: The “welding steel” at Tractor Supply/ Lowes/ Home Depot is mild steel and useless for knives Buy new, known, annealed blade steel. It is well worth it. Files, railroad spikes, lawnmower blades and other unknown steels can definitely be used for practice forging but will not perform for a knife. For the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use known good steel.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheap & made for DIY heat-treat. http://njsteelbaron.com/ Phone # 862-203-8160
His telephone service is better than his website.
Heat Treating:
Heat Treating Basics Video (downloadable) Right click and save this and watch it often
Kevin Cashen Heat Treating Info
Heat Treat services:
Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only A2, ATS34, Elmax, CPM154, 154CM, 440C etc.
Buck Knives- Paul Bos Heat Treating
Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steels Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084, 52100, 5160 Or air quenched A2, ATS34, Elmax, CPM154, 154CM, 440C etc.
Knifemaker CA (Canadian)
-Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs
Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goddard's Goop Quench, Motor Oil, Transmission Fluid
Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type Here is a good post by Kevin Cashen with the Explanation and classification of oil speeds
For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find a Eutectoid steel 1080, 1084. Grocery store canola oil can work well -if you use clean preheated oil
Brine and water are cheap for "water hardening" steels W1 and 1095, but use fast oils Parks 50 & Houghton Quench K If you use water or brine, expect broken blades!
/r/blacksmith is great for general blacksmithing tips beyond knives
/r/Bladesmith is great for those interested in forging knives
Check out /r/ChefKnives for all things regarding culinary cutlery
Gunsmithing /r/gunsmithing
Want a knife made? /r/MakerMesh
Like general knife discussion? /r/knives is the place for you.
Making knives isn't your thing, but the metal still calls? Here ya go: /r/metalworking
Need help with a different type of craft besides steel? Search here: /r/ArtisanHelp
Want to talk about knives and share yours? /r/knifeclub
Buy/Sell/Trade:
/r/knifemaking
Would like to be able to reprofile grinds, polish blades, and potentially even make some knives from scrap steel. What would be the best bench grinder set up for someone who intends to use it once in a blue moon for projects?
Is knife making an expensive hobby? On average how much did you spend on machines/materials?
How's my grain look? This is cut then broken off from the handle and it looks SUPER fine to me. I still have final heat treat to do yet, I only normalized the steel so I could cut and grind easier. I think this is steel is 5160? Not 100% sure I just know it came off a truck suspension.
Is this a bad thing? I noticed this problem with 440c and aebl, the metal is magnetic before heat treat but afterwards they are not. I follow the directions for the ht from alpha knife supply (where the steel was purchased) although I’m using parks 50 to quench and 450 degrees for one hour to temper. They have very little magnetism afterwards (won’t stick to a strong magnet).
I’m guessing one or both of those things may be the issue? I recently got some 1 inch thick aluminum billets to use for a plate quench which I believe is the correct way for most stainless steels. Sorry if this is obvious I’m still learning.
Just a little one I decided to make. 1095 and black walnut. Still needs a lot of work but it's looking pretty good so far.
A friend of mine asked recently if I would help him. His grandfather fought in WWII and came home with these as trophies from dead Nazis. My friend got these after his grandfather passed and has had them for several years. He is Jewish and no longer wants these, but did not want to sell them because of who would probably be interested in buying these things.
They aren’t historically significant or rare enough for a museum to want them donated, so he asked me if I’d want to turn them into something different.
So what I plan on doing is:
The only thing I don’t know is: what to turn it into. My first thought is a Ka-Bar, or a few, since I like the idea of turning a Nazi knife into a thing that killed Nazis. Are there any other ideas in that similar vein?
The friend is ok if I destroy them or if I turn them into something else so that’s why I’m ok doing a canister Damascus out of it. I’ve only done a few so I either destroy the knives and get usable steel out of it or I just destroy them.
Also: I did not realize Wüsthof was one of the companies still around that made stuff for the Nazis in WWII. Should have figured but was surprised.
Also also: do not ask to buy them.
Fourth try. San Mai billet.
I’m planning on making a nice little knife out of an old file. Do you guys think I should anneal it first?
Any tips?
It’s my fourth ever knife, but the first one I’m making all on my own.
Item available on the website: https://guardianknives.com.br/__bowie.html
Bowie with blade and guard in damascus steel, 1095 and 15n20 alloy. Spacer in 5160 steel with copper inlay, pommel in 5160. Handle in stabilized wood. Buffalo leather sheath.
Blade: 256 mm (10.07") Maximum width: 44 mm (1.73") Thickness: 7.2 mm (0.28") Overall length: 375 mm (14.76")