I'm not an engine builder. That childhood dream has left the room. I just build/fix things as a hobby, a learning experience, and to help out my family and friends.

Recently spun a bearing in my run around car (96 integra se, b18b1)

Bought a junkyard b18a1, and rebuilt it. Bearings, rings, valves, gaskets the whole nine yards. Used my B1 intake, cams and PCV though.

After verifying oil pressure and beaning around the neighborhood for a few laps everything was fine. It drove great. I've had a few integras and put 200,000km+ on them, fresh engine was such a good feeling. Went home for the week, came back to my shop to take the car home, and it developed a major smoking problem. I don't have a minute to do a leak down test until next weekend but at this point I already know I'm taking it apart again. So my dumb question is, if it's a bottom end problem, when I fix that, should I worry about the head surface? It has ran for maybe 40 minutes since being machined and coolant hasn't gone past 180F. With the 5.0 in my ranger I had no problems with re&re of the machined heads after heat cycle but I understand cast iron and aluminum are worlds apart

i burned up a valve on my 3vzfe and i am planning on buying a new head and replacing the old one.

i mainly do suspension work and carb stuff on small engines so this will be my first major engine project.

is this something i can take on by myself?

ive looked over the process and it seems to be straight forward, im just a bit worried about settting timing and replacing the timing chain.

I have a 93 f350 with a 351w and zf5 trans 4x4 looking for some good decent ideas to pull 500-600hp out of the engine and weather the trans will hold would like some low end but looking for it to be more of a meaner full band power

I’ve heard a lot of mixed opinions on scotch brite is it really that bad to use? I usually hose down and degrease the surfaces after using. Is this good enough? What else could I use besides this?

so basically i have 2 302 blocks one of them got ruined because the fire department dumped oil dry on it because there was a small oil leak and i the other block is bored over so i was gonna use the bored over one for the time being until i have more money to build the none bored one the way i want i guess what im getting at is can i use stock sized head gaskets on a bored over block

Been tryng to remove these rust spots with motor oil and #00000 steel wool. I've been able to get most of them down to dark gray. Is it fine to send it or should I keep going? Using a cometic MLS gasket.

Building a boost ready LQ4 iron block gen 3 LS motor. Never really touched a rotating assembly before but have done mostly everything else on my aluminum LS1 it will be replacing. Current plan is:

1. Take the block and LS3 heads to a machine shop to be cleaned and refinished.
2. Install forged rotating assembly with full ARP hardware.
3. Custom cam and valvetrain which I'll have my usual mechanic spec out
4. Stock LS3 heads with LS9 head gaskets

Don't have much more than that planned. Any advice for someone trying to learn? I've watched a bunch of YouTube videos and plan to pick up a book to read and go through as I do the build. I plan on doing it slowly piece by piece so the motor can go in over the winter.

Thanks

Machine shop fucked up and just threw all my labeled bolts, wrist pins, etc into a box. Nothing is labeled anymore so I don’t know which wrist pins fit in which piston. The engine has 260k miles so the wrist pins are definitely going to be different from each other. Any fix for this? Dudes at the machine shop say it’s fine but from everything I know it definitely is not after so much engine wear.

hello,

i am rebuilding a 4-cilinder engine. I wanted to ask is the 60mm external wastegate is too big? Or would the 40mm or 38mm be ideal? i plan to keep the boost between 25-30

This is on a 2.8L 24V VR6. I already lapped the valve and improved the seal. The darker area has not been touched by the valve.

Hey guys, I’m preparing to roll in new bearings to my 1988 Chrysler 318. I’m doing the rear main seal as well as a new oil pump and pressure sensor- everything short of pulling the engine and doing a rebuild (college budget) I’m wondering if there’s a real risk of cracking or ruining the front crankshaft seal while doing the main bearings and rear main seal. Should I just do the inner mains? Is it worth the risk doing the rear main seal over? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!

Hey guys, I rebuild my first engine, and I'm now unsure if I should pull it.

I rebuild a 1.6 Mx-5 engine with bigger pistons, new rods and a new oil pump. It's a boundary oil pump, Wiseco pistons, maxspeedingrods forged rods, ACL racing bearings, ARP Head Studs and a cometic head gasket.
The overbore and honing did a local shop, and I had sadly no way to remeasure what they did.

After the first oil change (just letting it idle for 30 min) I had some sort of silver glitter in my oil.
I didn't worry too much and just drove the car for 300km to break it in (not much throttle and very low boost but pretty rich since I didn't retune it yet) and changed the oil and filter again... still glitter
I drove the car for another 800km and changed the oil and filter again, still some sort of glitter but less. (still very rich under load like 11 afr)
The oil pressure looks fine under load and idle (idle cold~5 bar, idle hot~2 bar) and there was no noticeable oil consumption. I cut up all oil filter but found no noticeable particles.
Today I took a look at the cylinders with an endoscope and the hone looks somewhat scratched on all cylinders, but I'm unsure if that is normal or not.

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I hope you can tell me if I just worry too much and should just get a tune and drive it or if I should pull the engine and do, I don't know, build a new one because this is toast or fix what when wrong?

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https://preview.redd.it/6gvvlwy70wsc1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0abccfdb05e371680b34436f53b3a246f9d849c3

https://preview.redd.it/krcm1xy70wsc1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d85fa97be94b592397622a888c43eaec86777407

Particles after 2nd oil change

https://preview.redd.it/e7ju2zy70wsc1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ce2833d0a161fe4828535d229f4be96ac532d5f5

https://preview.redd.it/ettxfzy70wsc1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dbb750aace114d0b5c8cdb691e1e09e375cec998

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Whats this black stuff. Cant feel it with anything . Completely smooth. This is post hone. Used oil as well. This is a junkyard 5.3

Rebuilding a Sbc 350 and was hoping someone might have some info on this cam Only stamping outside the cam blank stamping from CWC is on the end and is MAP L. The p is pretty light but it’s there

Stock rebuild

I have to order a new damper for my gen2 sbc 385. It makes 530hp and is in a street car. There are 2 available.

7.53" 9.75 lbs steel

or

6.78" 4.5 lbs aluminum

Which would you get?

Whats the little btw the engine bay and firewall called that holds the windshield motor and linkage

It's an alusil block, just looking into possible options