Hey! So I'm building a Honda motor and I finally have all the parts I need and everything back from the machine shop.

I have done lots of reading on how to clean everything before I assemble. Seems like hot water, dish soap, and a hose/pressure washer are important parts of the process. However... my garage doesn't have a hose, or even running water. I live in Brooklyn and don't have hose access at all, not even at my apartment.

Any suggestions?

I'm a long ways off from doing any build but I a was trying to make sure that I wasn't planning anything that is not possible. The idea is a C3 Vette with the standard 350 on it. The main question is could I do my standard top end upgardes like Heads, Carb, Intake and also an exhaust. Then eventually have a seperate 350 block that I get machined and get the 383 low end stuff installed on. Could I use all the top end stuff I had already used on the 350 on the new 383 block. Everything I read doesn't say anything against it but I just haven't read anything diffinitive. Please let me know if what I am saying makes sense.

I was wondering is that for the skirt clearance for the pistons? I’m trying to measure the piston to wall clearance since I’m using brand new block.

I'm currently running 252/256 duration camshafts in my engine, intake and exhaust respectively. I'm about to make the switch to bigger 272/272 duration camshafts. I'm also running shim under bucket solid lifters, so to clearance camshafts properly, I'd have to shave the shims until it's the desired clearance.

However, I was looking up the specifications between the 252/256 cams I have and the 272/272 cams I'm interested in purchasing- both are from the same company.

Both camshafts have the same specifications of 10.0 mm lift and a base circle diameter of 33.0 mm.

As far as I understand, you're supposed to get the clearance measurement through the distance of the foot of the lobe to the surface of the lifter. However, it got me thinking that since both camshafts have the same base circle diameter of 33.0 mm, do I even have to shim the lifters? Wouldn't both cams be the same dimensionally from the ramp and below? From what I figured, the only difference dimensionally would be from the ramp to the tip of the lobe.

So, theoretically, would I just be able to unbolt the old cams and throw in the new cams without, necessarily, having to shim the lifter clearance? Or would I still have to shim regardless? Would having a higher degree of duration somehow mean the base circle is somehow dimensionally bigger? Is there something I'm missing?

I bought a 06 mustang gt with cams and with all the info I got none of it was on the cams in it all I can assume is the brand because of the comp cam sticker. Could anyone tell by sound or does anyone know how easy it is to pull out the cam to get to the part number a 4.6 3v motor. Thanks

So I recently bought a 98 GMC Suburban for parts for my 99 Chevy Tahoe. The previous owner said the head gasket failed on the passenger side and hydro locked. I'm a tow truck driver not a mechanic. So my question is if the engine is able to spin does that mean it's still good and I am just able to change the gaskets, do a oil change and it will be okay or do I call it junk and do an engine swap?

My head is already assembled and I'm using hydraulic lifters. Would it be possible to check valve clearance without changing anything? If I do have to buy a set of solid lifters, how do I determine which ones I need?

Short story long, in the market for a new work truck, have a chance to buy a c3500 with the 454 in it. Southern truck with high milage.

Are these master rebuild kits from (an example) enginetech worth it?

Hello,

Can anyone tell me where the block heater is supposed to be installed and a part number for the block heater for a Gen2 LT1?

I ordered the Zerostart 3100059 and tried to install it in the passenger and driver side core/freeze plug locations and it won't fit. The heating element won't let the heater sit in the hole.

Thanks!

I finished rebuilding my Engine and noticed this crack while I was putting it together. Low-key I went to the denial stage and just kept putting it together. Think I could be fine with this or should I rebuild another engine?

Hi. I was honing out my SBC 350 last night and noticed these odd vertical lines in the cylinder walls which kind of resemble cracks. Images attached. I'm not too experienced so I'm throwing up this post to be safe. Should I be concerned?

Thanks

https://preview.redd.it/u2wxbz5848ge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6aa583f8d31009e9d22af03f107c8cd46520edca

https://preview.redd.it/0g18cx4848ge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e985f536e9d87a921f59016882f2996b67f28524

https://preview.redd.it/a2qreo5848ge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=17577b87211b729639e15ad545457ccf0087ba60

https://preview.redd.it/geo6rz5848ge1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b836175e1a44da017e26b5434550b98b3f692e73

hey guys i’m fairly new to this community and everyone here seems very knowledgeable so im basically asking for advice. I have this 2017 Ram 1500 with the 5.7 Hemi and it just hit 60k miles, previously i was going with a pre-runner build but i decided to go for a street truck build so i went from the 6’ lift to a 2/4 drop recently.

I am aware that the 5.7 hemi isn’t an engine as efficient as a 5.0 when it comes to boosting since everything inside the engine block can’t handle such pressure and it’s basically made out of glass. I am not aiming for an extreme amount of power but just fair enough to win races here and there.

My question for y’all is what modifications do you guys recommend for me to do on this to get the most amount of power out of the engine without spending a crazy amount of money or risking the engine to blow up?

Sorry, I reposted this on my phone to get the picture to show up correctly.

I got tired of the cheap motor stand, I made a bit more sturdy one using leftover materials from the workshop, pieces of square pipe and used bearing units, the rollers are from a tool trolley that is permanently under the table. I ordered some parts, such as the mounting plate, laser cut at the same time I ordered parts for customer work.

Hi all, I am in a though spot. Long story short I resealed whole 289 from '66 Mustang. Heads were machined in the shop. When torquing down heads I reused old bolts (and lately it came to me that they were already reused at least once before), didn't used any oil or sealer on threads. Couple of days ago when I filled the system with coolant it started to leak like crazy in +- the same distance from outer 3rd bolt so It was dropping coolant between 2 & 3 and 3 & 4 bolt. I emptied most of the coolant front the system, cleared the hole with compressor and reinstalled bolt but using washer, as I though that bolt got longer because of overtightening/too much stress and now reaches bottom of it seat before fully squizzing head with the block. It helped. I filled the system with 30% more of coolant and it started to slowly leak on the other side (initial problematic spot remain dry)so I suspect the same issue. Nonetheless I decided to change all the bolts to ARP. Engine is in the car, everything is connected and plugged so I am planning to go with bolts install sequence and swap bolts but torque new ones only to 1step torque (50 ft lbs) untill all of the will be exchanged. Once done, continue like normal.

Here is the thing though - ARP recommends to use thread sealer for bolts going into water jacket which are these in Ford's 289? I can't find clear answer... Only outer, shorter ones? All of them?

Other thing is torque sequence - does anyone have correct pattern? Alf's Mustang garage and one found online are different...

You guys helped me a lot already and bless you for that but I hope you will be able to help me a little bit more 🙏🏻

Doing some preventative maintenance on a Cat 3600 compressor package

I’ve always been interested in engine building and plan to one day start and always wondered what’s a good go to motor. I’ve heard most people say junkyard truck motors but I don’t know.

COMP Cams High Energy Cam and Lifter Kits K66-248-4

If I put larger valves in an engine and leave the fuel injectors at stock size, will the engine run lean because of the added air from the larger valves? and then in order to make it run at the proper afr, install bigger injectors ?

I have a small block 305 for my 1972 chevy c10 step side but i need help identifying what year it is and what it came out of it had numbers on the back of the block by the fly wheel (460777) and then a stamped pad in the front if the block that had TI006c4J and then 38r16038 new to engine building so help would be great