Are cam stages “real” or are they used for marketing? I need a good explanation.

I have a single rocker with no oil.

Sbc 400. Cleaned the push rod. What can I do before pulling the intake ?

I was recently research the ford cammer, and the lineage of sohc fords and saw the 6.2 boss. I watched a video saying that the crank from the new 7.3 can fit in the block with small modification. Now I come here for advice since my local engine builder, is in contactable email doesn't work, phones goes to voice mail. The 7.3 has a bore and stroke of 4.22 inches with a stroke of 3.98 inches, and the boss has 4.015 in × 3.74 in. In theory putting the crank from the 7.3 and having a new over bore to around ~4.125 should get to 7.0. The plan is then put it in a s197 mustang mated to a 6 speed t56 to replicate the mustangs of old with their 427/428/429 engines and with slight inspiration from the 427 Torino that had the 427 cammer.

Has anyone has worked with the 6.2 boss a-test to the blocks ability to handle a new bore. Or does it need to be sleeved? to account for the new stroke and bore.

Seems to me like at a certain throttle and RPM, the engine would be flowing a fixed amount of air and therefore a fixed amount of vacuum, regardless of cam design. Seems like that isn't the case though, why not?

My friend, who’s very very old is quite the Ford man. He’s got a model T and F10. He’s got an imperial Continental Mark two he has this four-cylinder Ford block in his garage. It’s in a crate. I believe you guys would call that a short block because it has the head on it With the rockers and the valves it’s clean it’s rebuilt. It’s in a crate like a plastic crate in his garage for the life of him. He doesn’t know what it goes to. or where he got it I am a lonely Roofer. I am not a mechanic. Don’t even pretend to be a mechanic but what can you guys tell me from these numbers? I have a 1980 Ford Courier with a 2.3 Pinto engine in it that needs a new engine it’s automatic, will this block fit in there? If not, what the hell this block go to it looks about the size of his model T engine, but I don’t know like I said I’m a roofer. Thank you in advance Mucho gusto party naked boys.

Im about to start my first swap project putting an lm7 into my truck. I bought a used engine out of a 1999 Silverado with 170k miles. I dont want to start pulling the engine out of my truck until I know the lm7 is in good enough condition to at least rebuild. What are some red flags to look for when I tear down the used engine? It has a 90 day warranty so I want to find out any issues quickly in case I need to return a bad engine. My plan is to take spark plugs out and use a boroscope to look into each cylinder. Then drain the oil pan and remove it to look at the crankcase. I'll also look under the valve covers. Will I be able to remove the pushrods and lifters to inspect the cam lobes?

I'm building a 440 that will strictly be used on the street and will never see the track. I have built this motor twice now that has wiped out 2 flat tappet cams, first was a comp cams 21-223-4 and the second was a summit 6401, both using the provided manufactures lifters. I used the springs that came in the comp cams kit for both (summit recommended the same springs as well, the 911-16 part number). The comp cams build had over half the lifters get wiped out during break in. The summit build lasted a few weeks with no issues, then a tick came about. Opened it up and a few lifters were starting to go, although still spinning. 1 looked like it had just stopped spinning, but no major damage on that one yet. The only thing i can contribute to the problem is the spring pressure. I followed the break in procedure to a T.

Now i'm at a crossroads where I am now having to build this motor for a third time, and am leaning towards hydraulic roller lifters to hopefully get away from these flat tappet problems. Howards Cams seems to be the brand to go with based on what people are saying online. I would be purchasing the CL723515-12 kit (Lift: .510 / .500, Duration @ .050: 219 / 225). What spring pressure is safe to run on these? I've read rollers require more pressure than flat tappets, but how much more? I do not want to repeat this process again. I'll be keeping the 1.5 rocker ratio and am running the stock heads for reference.

I'm interested in a little upgrade for my streetcar project.

I want to get closer to 10/1 compression if possible.

I want to send the heads out to get milled and ported at the same time and I have a few questions.

1. What valtrane components will I need to replace when all that metal is shaved off? How should I match the pushrods?
2. Do I need to worry about head gasket thickness as well?
3. If I want to use stock pistons what should I be most worried about and how do I measure clearance?
4. Are there cheap head options for a similar price that get me what I'm looking for in performance?

Here's a pick of the test fit for funzies!

Thanks guys it was good to get the advice on my timing concerns. I ended up drilling a hole in my distributor cap and walking it to get a nice lil window to see my rotor phasing and it's right where I expected it would be. Fired up the car and by the time it was warmed I checked all my critical items such as timing/fuel leaks/fuel pressure/wiring.

I set the idle for 1000 rpms and locked timing to 20 degrees roughly and maxed timing to 26 or so.

Now here we are: I was underhood so I left the key on and cranked it by touching starter lead to the positive batt terminal. The general "sound of starter" is not pleasant but I can tell there is no kickback. All good news.

But my question is whether I should go to a starting strategy that engages the starter and then I "flip on" ignition. This would be easy enough to do and if it saves wear and tear on my new starter gear/fancy flexplate I think it may be worthwhile. Right now got the original 67 ignition switch doing the work.

Maybe it won't make a dang bit off difference?

What do you think? It's a 408w with all the goodies and it seems like it's not the easiest engine to spin over.

I’m working on my LS and I had all my rods labeled but the machine shop removed the labels when they put the new pistons on.

I know the chamfer goes towards the fillet and the flats go to the other rod but which one is chamfer and which is the flat? They look mostly the same to me? If I had to guess the flat is on the left?

Not really a repair question.. Who remembers the "Dumbell " you would find in the transmission pans ? It used to seal the dip stick hole during manufacturing to keep the fluid at the right level without spilling. I would like to post one and see how many wrong answers there would be lol.

Is there any significant difference between the two? My 78 is worn out badly but I have a 30k miles 93-94 in the shop that I took in trade. I am aware that the top end is all different. I need to know if crank, pistons, seals, etc are the same minus the freeze plug or two that have sensors stuck in them.

https://preview.redd.it/4yyigtcgaixd1.png?width=1221&format=png&auto=webp&s=2076f190c24929f28314c09f49ef09e5765cb445

https://preview.redd.it/x5yhov1iaixd1.png?width=1221&format=png&auto=webp&s=0c2741565e35c19ab13b81c8bebedf44324fc7ef

https://preview.redd.it/09lbh0gjaixd1.png?width=1221&format=png&auto=webp&s=deea35cd66b83c3ac5ce160708b7e31992ea6940

https://preview.redd.it/2n8u30xkaixd1.png?width=692&format=png&auto=webp&s=abd3d32ba078344e0afe5952b8127901c32daf46

This was pulled from a tired engine (every bearing was shot). I think it's an old comp cams grind. I've got a new cam going in, but wanted to know if this could be used for anything, or is it just toast?

I have a lc9 5.3 with SBE just new bearings and OE pistons ( flat with no valve relief) from 2007 that came with 799 heads it’s going in my 2002 trans am.

Can I mill the 799s 0.20” and throw on a 0.40” head gasket and not have any clearance issues.

Not sure if I'm just panicking or I've really fucked this one up, but I put a bit of anti seize on main cap bolts. This might have resulted in much more stretch which means I should get new ones, but I cannot as they don't sell them (Jaguar). However, it's torque + angle: M10 - 25nm, 57nm + 70°, M8 - 15nm, 33nm + 75°. Nothing snapped and they hold everything in place and the crank moves freely. Is there a possibility that the bolts snap later on? Would you leave them there or would you try to loose them, clean them, check them and reuse if possible?

I'm currently building a Mitsubishi 6G74 and 6G75 hybrid for my Pajero (Montero) - 6G74 block bored 1mm oversize, 75 pistons & crank, 74 rods, 75 heads. The non-MIVEC 75 is out of a Mitsubishi 380 and it isn't straightforward to simply use that complete engine in the Gen 3 Pajero, although it's easier in the Gen 2 I believe.

Question is - are there any potential issues fitting the heads and timing belt components and then setting the valve timing without the rocker assemblies bolted on? The factory manual shows the heads fully built up before fitting and timing, but I'm still waiting on some parts so was thinking get the heads on and setup and then bolt the rocker shafts down later.

I can't see what the difference would be be, other than the tension on the cams would be keeping the belt tight on the driven side if the rockers were fitted. From experience though the tension from the valve springs being compressed can be a PITA as the RH cam always wants to turn when on TDC.