/r/EngineBuilding
Engine Building and Swaps - V8 and all the rest!
Engine Building - V8, V6, I4, I6, and all other vehicle engines you have, older or newer!!
Share builds, future build plans, progress pics, anything
Swapping in a modern engine? Share
Rebuilding a tired engine? Share
Race Engine rebuild? Share
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No Size Hate
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/r/EngineBuilding
In a 69 chevelle if it matters, driven very little over the last 20 years, still runs well with a couple leaks now and then
So what's the big difference between them?
Reading a lot on here, a lot of the "old heads" prefer the black.
It looks like both grey and black have the same coolant resistance (both mention coolant resistance), but black has "maximum oil resistance".
Black seems to be more flexible, and grey more ridged.
But just how chemically different is the black and grey RTV's, or is it just marketing "illusion of choice"?
I’m tearing down and rebuilding a 302 V8 - all but one of the walls seem to be in okay condition. One of the walls has a deep scratch, I can just about catch my nail on it.
I was planning on stone or ball honing all cylinders anyway, and replacing piston rings. Is this scratch workable?
I guess I know the answer already but I just want to double check before I actually split the cases and buy a new crank. It's a low powered cheap honda scooter, so if I could technically slide in a new pin and send it I would. I can't get the old pin back in since it's catching on the scratches. Any way I can work away the sharp edges in there and get a new pin to slide in smoothly? Still new to engine (re)building as you may be able to tell. Any help is appreciated.
I returned my 35-522-8 cam and looking for a replacement. I did the comp cam can't find it?grind it!form to help me find a cam. Here's the form (pictures). Sorry for the reupload I had to correct post
I don't know why I put no for Mass Air Sensor. This was also before I realized connecting rods aren't 6.200 like the website I ordered them from says they are. Connecting Rod (6.250). Head runner volume is 195cc (AFR 195cc). Still unsure if I should've said yes for more low speed torque. Reason for wanting to run 3.55 is because when I do boost the car I want a longer gear ratio. This will be a street car. CR is 10.05:1
Comp Cams options
If you stay with the 3.55 gears, I would look at part number 35-872-13. Here is a link to the specs: https://www.compcams.com/street-strip-efi-237-247-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-ford-50l-cpg.html
If you want to run shorter(higher numerically) gears, I would look at part number 35-870-13. Here is a link to the specs: https://www.compcams.com/street-strip-efi-243-253-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-ford-50l-cpg.html
I am looking for a company that makes high quality alternators. Ideally looking to shed weight without losing output
Hi guys. Can we get a basic write up or sticky on the basics on how and where everything needs to be measured while building an engine, including the tools required? I know a lot of the information is in this reddit piecemeal and spread across many posts, but it would be really helpful to have a basic how to guide sticked. I have done quite a bit of wrenching but most of the engines I have worked on I have had the shortblock built by the machine shop. I have taken stuff apart and put it back together but I am basically operating on faith that the machine shop I used knew what they were doing and everything is just right.
Brand new lq9 with no oil pressure with gauge in side of oil pump. Am I stupid, screwed, or both?
I have a 2014 jag motor that needs a new sleeve. Can the sleeve on these be pressed out or is a bore necessary? It’s a v6 open deck aluminum block. Any ideas on what could save this motor? The piston heads are all being replaced.
Journal is completely smooth to the touch, no dips, no pitting, just doesn’t look the best.
It’s a simple engine rebuild, stock, no boost or anything like that.
A buddy says I shouldn’t use it but I disagree so looking for internet people to confirm or deny lol
So this is a fairly new to me Ratrod with a 350 sbc and 1984 thm 400 auto trans. Pro street blower, Edelbrock 4011 carb. My question/problem is that there is no provision or parts that I can find to drop down a gear when you stomp on the skinny pedal. Could someone point me in the right direction I don't want to go the B&M slapstick shifter route
Was building my 4.7 dakota (for the second time) and was assembling the timing and happened to look inside my cam when I took the sprocket off and there was rust inside the cam and I submerged it in vinegar for a few days as I was working in another city and when I returned it looked like the beating material started disintegrating.
Anyways I need a new cam and I’ve found a bunch ranging from a hundred to a few hundred and am wondering if it matter too much where I get a cam from and if I should be replaying both of my cams. Thank you for your time I’ve been following this page here and there for some time and dreamed of getting this far with my project and I’m almost there.
Would going to a junkyard be an option to or would it be risky using a cam I know nothing about and could I be wasting my time trying to go find something everyone might’ve already been after. If spending more money to get better chances that this thing runs a long time I’m all for it I’d even been thinking about aftermarket cams but I was really planning on making this thing stock although it’s overboard so would I need anything to like help compensate the extra displacement or would it be too minute to matter.
Wanted to already start this month, but gotta do something else first. But eh, delays happen.
It wont be anything Special. Its for my motorcycle, a Honda Grom. Out with the old 125ccm SOHC 2v and in with the new 181ccm SOHC 2v.
Pretty much everything except the casings will be replaced. Forged crank shaft, piston rod, piston, new cylindre, new cylindre head, hot cam, new valves, new timing chain, new throttle body with a new air intake system and a new ECU + mapping, which ill have to program. Ill also install some support mods like a additional crankshaft bearing, a vented cam cover or a reinforced timing chain adjuster.
Also the engine is currently only air cooled. Ill also build a whole oil cooling system with a upgraded oil pump, a oil cooler and a oil catch can.
Its my first project like that. Ive replaced my clutch and many other parts on my motorcycles. Ive fixed things when they broke. Sometimes also not in my garage, but on the road when I only had limited tools with me. I think im ready fur such a big step forward. Splitting the case and replacing 90% of an engines internal, even if its only one of the simplest modern designs possible.
I have the garage manual for my bike and i am blessed with working eyes and ears to watch and understand youtube and the internet as a whole if i cant figure things out.
What else would you experienced engine builders advise a 19 year old, that is about to void his warranty?
Did you know that a lifter set at let's say .050" preload doesn't mean that's where it operates and the operational amount varies depending?
I’ve been thinking about this for a while, because higher revving didn’t just come with engine size or the amount of cylinders. There’s super car v8s that rev to 9k, so how do they handle it? If I wanted to build an inline 4 to rev to 10k how would I go about that? Any good websites?
Planning to replace the 602 2.5 na in my rhd W126 with an 662.925 from an rexton 2.9.i was planning to fit it together with the turbocharger but from what I see the turbo charger could interfer with steering box. So could if just fit the 602na intake and exhaust manifold on the 662 and just continue using the engine?
Many times people will look for answers to a problem, but overlook valuable diagnostic tools. Oil analysis is at it's best when done as part of a regular maintenance program. But there are instances where an analysis can present a clear picture of a problem.
A very good friend owns a 2003 Tahoe with a 5.3. He is rather obsessive about maintenance. This particular Tahoe has had regular oil changes with Mobil 1 since it had 6,000 miles. Currently it has about 162,000 miles. Completely stock, and runs perfect. A few months ago my friend noticed he was down on coolant, which is changed every 3 years. Topped it off, looked but didn't find leaks. Started out with a pressure test on the cooling system, and nothing. Holds pressure no leaks to be found.
People start telling him he needs a radiator, a throttle body, head gaskets, heads, an intake. You name it, someone told him he should change it. Admittedly, as familiar as I am with bad 5.3 heads(this has 862s), I thought that wasn't likely. They should have been bad sooner. But I pulled off a valve cover with him, and nothing to be found. He keeps driving, and it's slowly losing coolant. Nothing visible in the oil. Checked heater cores, checked every hose, and nothing.
Other people are insisting it needs an intake manifold gasket. Uh.. there is no coolant in the intake flange.. Another person swears it's the trans cooler. But, the trans fluid is perfect. I suggested doing an oil analysis after the first pressure test (it's been pressure test 4 times now). I explained if coolant was getting into the crankcase in small amounts that would show it. My friend was skeptical, but came around to the idea. The results are pictured here.
Not only is there sodium and potassium (coolant), there is a critical amount of bearing material. As far as I know, the only lead in bearings in this engine are the cam bearings. The oil analysis answered the coolant loss question and more. Also worth noting, the strong base number and additive strength of the oil with over 6000 miles. My friend has decided to buy a LQ9 core, we will rebuild it for the Tahoe.
New lifters, cam, pushrods, and rockers yet it still makes sound from what seems to be the top end. Maybe we wiped the cam?
I'm rebuilding a 61 chevy pickup that already has a 350 sbc in it. I'm installing a TH 350 as well and so I'm looking for a Carburetor recommendation.
Got an 01 Sierra with the 5.3 now and it’s nearing 220k, once I can get a trans for it I wanna slowly piece together a built motor for it. Would it be worth spending the extra time and money and building a 6.0? Or should I stick with a 5.3? I plan on higher compression N/a