I’ve got a C-code (289 2-Barrel 200 hp) that will be going back into a 1965 with the C4 3-speed auto. The engine is in pieces right now, so if I wanted to make changes, now’s the time right? I’m not aiming to make it a power machine, just a cruiser with a bit more zip and some more appeal under the hood.

Curious what to consider as options for this. I know there are things like exhaust headers that can be changed out, but at the moment I’d like to focus on pre-combustion stuff.

1. My understanding is that adding a quality 4-barrel would add some and is relatively easy at this stage, is that correct?
2. If my goal was to swap in a 4-barrel, i’d need a new intake manifold as well, right?
3. Anything else to make that 4-b work, or is that it?
4. Anything other easy mods I should consider that I might not be aware of?

TIA!

Last show of the year....

Looking to switch from the old points distributor. HEI or MSD? Obviously MSD costs a ton more. Not running any insane kind of power and just want consistency.

Any recommendations on exactly what to buy?

My car was accidentally burned by neighbor lighting carport on fire, which lit my car cover on fire. The car is considered a total loss and I am getting a settlement from insurance. However, because it is totaled it is going to be considered "salvage". In CA I am learning it is process to then have it re-registered after rebuilding Has anyone had this happen where your car was a total loss insurance-wise and you had to rebuild it from "salvage"? Was it difficult to get through DMV or have it insured again? Thank you!

https://preview.redd.it/z6xboao8i74e1.jpg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=36412d0c324e5d3cc7135b2626006b947ab677c9

Hey guys, I have a 65 coupe which I've been building from the ground up. I'm looking for some quality 3 point retractable seat belts.

I'm looking to hear first hand from people who bought a set they really like. I've already done the obvious and searched online and found many options. But all the options seem to be just decent, there always seems to be some quirk about each one.

I often prefer universal parts compared to those built specifically for my car. This is because I have an increasing number of custom stuff and usually the car-specific parts don't work without modification. Universal parts are just built to be more adaptable. ANYWAY love to hear what people have to say.

Anyone ever get anything from seat belts plus? Looking at this universal one they have

Hi all. So i have the chance to purchased a 66 coupe restore project for around 5k. The previous owner has had it in bits for 9 yrs and never touched it. He has the V5 but nothing else. No import /shipping docs or anything. Is this going to cause a problem for me when registering? And do you know if I can trace the history of the car from just the UK doc.?

Hello, hope y’all are having a good day. Wondering if anyone knows what this is and what is it for? It sits on the top of the chassis right under where the steering column and steering box meet.

Hi, this is third year of me ordering various parts to restore my 69 with stock 390FE one day.... I've bought long tube headers and now wondering what exhaust should I get. I'm a total rookie, never had a US car. (I'm in Europe)

I've found online Pypes Performance 2.5" with Race Pro mufflers which seems quite nice. I like they're all stainless steel, the race pro muffler seems to be quieter than their other choices and all costs around $550.

I know the exhaust sound is kinda very subjective but still would love to hear others opinion or just assurance that it's not a terrible choice as I really don't have experience with anything about cars. :) I just don't want to wake up all my neighbours every time I'd start it but a healthy rumble would be nice.

Did anyone else have issues finding a working turn signal after switching to LEDs? I've gone through my 3rd one from Amazon, and still nothing. Either I get nothing, or I might get a solid arrow light on the dash, with nothing on the exterior. The hazards still have the original incandesent relay (for testing), which gives a super slow blink, so I know the lights are working. Am I missing something? I feel like this should be a pretty solved problem...

Ones I've tried so far:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BBWLY8XD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MJGC28B?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097SMP66B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

Hey all! I've always been into mustangs since I was a kid. I've never owned one and considering I already have a money pit project, I won't for a long time. That being said, I come to y'all hoping someone, anyone, has a picture of this pair of monstrosities that used to be in the Phoenix AZ area. Some absolute madlad took a late 90s to early 00s civic and a 1970 fastback, chopped both in half and welded them back to the other cars respective end... I know, crazy! They disappeared about 10-15 years ago and everyone I've ever mentioned these things to look at me like my head is backwards... I'm trying find any evidence of these cars, I want a picture or something to know I'm not just insane... If you have ANY information, no matter how small, please lmk.

I'm in the process of buying a 69 coupe that's been converted to a fastback and it's currently sitting on an Oldsmobile Cutlass chassis and I'm trying to find an original or new 69 chassis to put under it, any advice or places to look are appreciated. Budget id say less than 15k

Edit, it's come to my attention that I know practically nothing lol, which is ok. I'm just a 19 yo looking for a decent price decent condition 69 fastback project car

I’m doing a parts inventory before rebuilding starts and it seems like there’s a frame piece that should be here. Is that correct, or do the valences and number attach directly to what we see here?

1965 coupe.

Worth noting that the black pieces are not yet installed / loose, but go roughly where they are sitting.

Hey lads - Happy Thanksgiving for the Americas.

Any tips for unf**king wiring that's been cut over over the years? Under the dash is a mess of electrical tape, wriring nuts, and loose/cut wire.

I spent a bit of time glazed over at a wiring diagram and was able to sort out what's going on with my radio (Pic related) then labeled it so i would not forget.

Is that the best path forward for everything? Wire by wire?

Pics for attention but related.

Just wanted to post feedback, installed the front coilover kit a few weeks ago with the sport valving. TLDR: it's amazing and I highly recommend it.

My background: I've been car obsessed for decades. I've done drag racing, autocross, and endurance road racing. I have podium finishes in amateur endurance road races (14hr or more, CMP, Sebring, Daytona) in a Miata, 350z, and FC RX7. My standard for good handling is very high.

My fastback had the full global West front and rear setup, rollerized perches, del alum shackles in leaf springs, Koni shocks, etc. It also had a TCP rack and pinion conversion.

I HATED driving the car. It felt awful. Twitchy, numb, unpredictable. The car sat for 20 years before I bought it so I assume some of the bushings or rollers or something were binding in the spot they sat forever. I wasted years just spiraling on what decision to make. I did not want to cut the car up. I couldn't find any real in depth reviews on the SoT kit besides people saying it was "good".

Before I did the coilover kit up front, I went with bilstein shocks from SoT in the rear as well as replica performance package leaf springs. This helped the rear a lot, it went from skipping/bouncing over every obstacle to feeling okay. But the front end was still very sketchy.

The install is pretty well documented online, it went on easily and the instructions are very thorough. The worst part was drilling the holes for the strut tower brace/load spreaders. Things didn't want to align perfectly and the holes overlapped the existing factory carriage bolt grooves.

Driving feedback: I've got about 50 miles on the new setup. It completely transformed the car. It soaks up bumps amazingly well, you barely feel them. I can slalom at 40-50mph with confidence. Hands down I would recommend it if you're on the fence. It is a bit pricey, but if you look at a good rollerized setup with springs/shocks it's only about 40% more for the coilover setup. Ride height adjustment is easy, motion ratio is improved, and handling is definitely great. The car feels like a modern car now, even with the leaf springs out back. Getting this done gave me the motivation to tackle a bunch of other projects I had put off because I just wasn't enjoying driving the car. It's also totally reversible, so if you regret it the only permanent mod is a few holes in the strut tower that can be through bolted.

Does anyone know a reputable mechanic in the Portland metro area? I have inherited my dad’s mustang but it’s been sitting for over 13 years. Trying to see how much work I have ahead of me to get it back on the road.

I’m wanting to sell my 1969 Fastback, but am unsure where to list it. I’m in Southern California (San Diego county)

BaT seems to go over the top (which is great!) but I don’t have time or experience to take all those photos and upload that narrative.

Autotrader is pretty popular, but I don’t know how many folks look at that

Marketplace is a nightmare with scammers

Who are you using, where did you buy yours from, and would you pay $45k for this?

—

1969 Ford Mustang · Coupe · Driven 5,000 miles

Known issues up front: Rattle in the driver side window (on track, worn spacer), no AC, heater removed, no headliner. Otherwise, very clean, and very straight.

California car, no rust. Full restore, stripped down to the metal, painted in Audi’s “Nardo Grey.”

Interior and undercarriage have also been stripped, sealed and coated.

Blueprint crate engine (BP3060CTC), with a sniper EFI, Doug’s long tube headers, and custom exhaust all the way back. Engine is coupled to a T5 with Tilton hydraulic T/O bearing, wilwood 3 pedal setup, custom driveshaft, and a professionally built (shortened, straightened) 8.8” rear end with a 3.73 locker rear end, and 31spline shafts.

All new fuel lines and fuel system, brakes lines, American Autowire harness. Window seals are all new as the glass was removed for paint.

I have a binder full of receipts

Google photos of the build along the way - https://photos.app.goo.gl/nMEzcdqRty9zEQoSA

Imgur of her current status - https://imgur.com/a/LB2BXNm (the last 2 pictures should be videos with audio)

I was gave a 1970 mustang and was wondering how to repair rust in these areas. The vinyl top really screwed up underneath right there near the window. I doubt they make any weld in panels for ? Any ideas ?