/r/s550mustangs
If you love the new s550 Ford Mustangs, this is the place for you. Share images, news stories, project builds or just your experience with your new s550 Mustang here!
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/r/s550mustangs
Im asking if any one knows where i can or if i can purchase real vents to replace the quarter windows on my mustang. By real vents i mean like what was equipt on mustangs in the 60s. Not just some autozone quality stick on plastic.
Hey guys I have a 2017 mustang GT manual. So I recently started to noticed that my clutch pedal was crooked and sometimes it would make a weird noise when pushing it in. But recently it stops half way now and won’t let me change my gears unless I push it to the side. I’m pretty sure it’s because of the crack on there and I was seeing if there was anyway to fix that. But with that my car also stopped turning on all the way when that started. I’m able to power on the car and use all the electric stuff but it won’t crank the car at all and if it does turn on it has to be like hours apart until I turn it off once and I can’t turn start it again. It says push in the clutch pedal to start but I’ve been doing that to whole time and nothing. I just wanted to see if everyone else had that problem and how they were able to fix there car thank you.
So I came outside a few months ago to a Mustang that wouldn’t start. I ended up replacing the battery. Fast-forward to a few days ago , I come outside in the car won’t start. I have a little jump box and I was able to hook it up and turn the car on immediately. I ran the car for about 30 minutes and once I shut it off, the car won’t turn on. I jumped the car again and took it to AutoZone. They tested my battery alternator and starter and said they are all fine. Has anyone ever encountered anything like this? My car has an interstate battery. The original battery that I replaced was an interstate battery. Every time I turn the car off a screen pop up that says “ system off to save battery” So last night, I was trying to mess with the car and figure out the problem and all of a sudden the headlights and tail lights would not turn off. I had to switch in the auto position so I tried to turn it off like that and it still didn’t work. Also, my car is a GT premium so it has the ED horse logo that shows up on the ground from the door.. that kept on flashing as well as the dome lights inside the car. The car was freaking out and flashing all kinds of light inside. Another thing to know is that there’s an alarm inside the car that keeps making a dinging noise . Eventually, I got tired of all so again and turned it on. I shut off the car, locked the garage and went inside. I haven’t been out there yet to see what’s going on, but I’m sure that alarm is still going inside the car. The car will stay on just until I shut it off. I would also like to note that, that while the car is on, the battery is at 14 V, but once I turn it off, it immediately goes to 12 V, and within seconds, it drops down to under 9 V. The battery is six months old. Now I only drive the car once or twice a week but when I do drive it it’s for at least 30 minutes to an hour. Please help.
All I need to get is a booster pump and confirm on the injectors. Can anyone confirm if I need to replace the roush injectors for bigger E85 injectors?
I bought this aftermarket steering wheel for my 2020 mustang GT it has heating which i retained on the aftermarket one. It doesn’t have any connector just these wires. If anyone knows about how to connect these wires please help Thank you in advance.
I had recently installed a boss 302 in my 2018 mustang and my stock hood bends when trying to fit… before I venture out and buy a new one does anyone know if the gt500 hood will fit? If not then what should I do.
So I bought an bill spoiler from amazing for my S550 and the bolt holes from the stock spoiler do not line up any other ideas of how to install the spoiler with have to drill new hole in the trunk
The dealer has had my car twice (two separate weeks) and says they don’t hear any dash rattle. The plastic behind the glass rattles like there’s a piece of plastic or something lose back there. Anyone else experience this?
My neighbor just bought this car. I’m her “car guy,” but Mustangs, and newer cars in general, are not my area of expertise. She’s had it maybe two weeks, and it has worked perfectly every day until now.
The car has an unknown list of aftermarket modifications. At a minimum, there’s an Airraid intake, a catback exhaust, and a blowoff valve. There may be some kind of aftermarket security system, but I don’t see any evidence of one anywhere. No aftermarket-looking wiring under the dash or under the hood, and it has the original Ford keyfobs. A bunch of hopefully irrelevant cosmetic stuff, too. She was provided no documentation of any modifications; I don’t know what else might be involved.
When you get in and press the clutch pedal, it flashes the headlights and tail lights several times quickly. The light on the start button also flashes. That’s all you get; the car won’t start. It doesn’t even try. You should definitely watch the video to get the full experience.
For as long as you hold the clutch pedal, it will keep flashing. Every few seconds, you hear the electronic throttle actuate under the hood, followed by a “thuckathuckathuckathucka” sound that seems to be coming from below the driver seat (you can feel it). When you release the clutch, it plays the first two notes of the standard Ford chime.
The rearmost, passenger-most relay under the hood clicks on and off once with each cycle of sounds. No other relay activity I can hear or feel.
The battery is tagged March 2024 and reads 12.4v. While all this is happening, it never drops below 12.3v. I don’t have a load tester, but I’m not inclined to think it’s the problem.
Newer cars are wild, and I don’t even know where to begin. I’m really hoping someone recognizes this behavior and can suggest something.
Thanks in advance!
Oh, also: can you bump-start these cars? How do I get it into an ignition-on state? If it comes to this, that’d save her a towing bill.
So I got my car back from the shop and I guess they did a bad job putting the exhuast back on if it just fell off. I have twin turbos under the car will it be bad to not have anything connected after the turbos?
Car is new to me, drives great other than a blown out shock that I swapped today. Im just getting into the car scene and I want to know what the stages mean and what I can do to add more hp on somewhat of a budget for now. I keep hearing stage 1, stage 2, etc. It’s a manual and when I try to get the rear to eat out of 1st, it just won’t spin how I want even after turning off adv trac off. It has aftermarket exhaust and clearly it’s dropped but that’s it. First on my list is a cold air intake, a bigger throttle body with a spacer and longer headers. Help me build my list. Cams? Lifters? Driveshaft? Intake manifold?
So my 2016 gt started making a terrible grinding noise today and after further inspection I believe the ac compressor is the culprit. I'm wondering if anyone else has seen or had this issue and if the fix was just the clutch or the whole compressor. Thanks in advance! (Also seems to be a flyid possibly seeping out will report back after on a lift)
2017 GT Cali Spec
BBK long tube headers Full Borla exhaust PMAS intake
Bought it like this, not too sure if there are any other mods hidden. Not sure of the current tune.
Right driver side I believe
Father and son ready to stretch their legs
So I have a 2017 mustang GT and have a roush H pipe and a C&L sport axle back exhaust on right now it’s pretty nice but I wish it was just louder and way deeper or throatier honestly just as loud but I don’t know exactly what to do to get it louder anything would help.
My mechanic told me I need to get o2 spacers because of my exhaust setup so I was wondering if these from JCarPart will fit my long tube headers