I recently got a automatic 2018 jeep compass with about 50k miles on it. Noticed it would lurch occasionally, i havent been able to find a consistent trigger. It isnt every time i drive it, and it isnt always at the start or the end of trip. Took it into jeep dealer to get a transmission inspection they said looked good did find a few software updates 1 they claimed would fix it, it did not, happened again on my way home. There are no lights on the dash and no logged messages. The lurches vary in severity from feeling like someone bad at driving a manual to getting rear ended.

A few examples: -happened when maintaing speed at approx 40 mph -happen sometime when i take my foot off the gas and coast in the neighborhood at about 25 mph -when driving slowly around 10 mph -when accelerating hard and then coming off the gas

Any ideas whats wrong? Its cost 400 already to end up where i started and just wanna make sure im chasing the right rabbit.

Help! My driver side vent is blowing cold air when I turn the AC on but the other vents are blowing hot air....... I got the control piece behind the heat/air knobs replaced but it doesnt seem to be helping.

I’ve been getting the abs/traction lights off and on for a while. Code said rear left, replaced it once and no issues for a while. Came back and replaced the harness, no issues for a while. Came back and added a bunch of electrical tape and some of that corrugated plastic sheath stuff, that didn’t help. Lights will turn off on their own when driving straight and no bumps, but the that doesn’t last long on SE PA roads. Turning left seems to be a specific trigger, more so than random bumps, but it’s not the only one. I found a wiring diagram online, and it looks like all the sensors share the same circuit - I don’t know a lot about electronics, but could a bad section of wire/harness somewhere else in the sensor circuit trick the computer into defaulting to left rear? I noticed the front right sensor harness was out of its little wire holder clips (and appears to be missing a few), so I’m wondering if that’s getting pinched and the computer still thinks it’s the rear sensor having an issue.

I plan on trying to get the front harness more secure regardless, but figure I’d ask as I won’t be able to get to it for a while.

Hi all, I’ve got a slow coolant leak from what appears to be my radiator. Pic shows the bottom of the driver’s side of the radiator. Anyone seen anything like this before? Any advice before I start gutting and replacing? It’s a 2009 JK, with the 3.8. Thanks in advance!

I was looking to replace my oem alternator since it is making a loud noise. No it isn't the idlers I have changed those. I have heard that a JL alternator will work in a JK. However there are different amp sizes. Do they all fit or only certain ones?

My jeep is a 2014 JKU

Follow up to this post https://www.reddit.com/r/jeeptechnical/s/qZDw55zCdV

Long story short for the above, the heater core was 100% leaking, replaced it and now I have heat again, but the fan started to rev up while idling and I knew that the issue wasn’t over, and now I have a p0480 code. My coolant isn’t milky, and I’m not getting white exhaust smoke so I’m not sure it’s a head gasket issue.

I’ve read the fusible link can make things wonky, so as yet another last ditch Hail Mary I figure I’d just replace it and see what happens, but I’m clueless with electrical. From what I can tell it should just be swapping out the correct gauge wire, but I haven’t found any detailed instructions. So my questions are this:

1. can I just go to an auto/home depot store and get any wire as long as it’s the correct gauge? Or does it have to be the correct gauge and specific type of wire? Does anyone know what guage wire that is?

2. Assuming I can’t find a wire with the connectors pre attached, is it just a crimp thing where I take the old ones and put it on the new wire? Or do I need to dig out the soldering iron I got back in high school?

3. assuming I either find an exact replacement or can get the correct guage/connectors, it’s just a simple screw in the new one process, right?

4. lastly, can a bad battery cause the fan to act crazy? I’d assume no but I’m grasping at straws at this point.

Cross posting from wrangler for visibility:

After the thermostat opens, is coolant always flowing through the heater core, regardless of the heat being on? The most recent mechanic I’ve taken it to swears there’s a “bypass” but I don’t see it.

Some background if you’re interested: jeep will occasionally start to run hot but never redline or throw a overheat warning light; the temp gauge starts to spike and the fan will kick into jet engine speed until you turn off the car and let it sit for a while.

I’ve been trying to track this down for about a year on my own and between a few mechanics. I’ve replaced essentially the entire cooling system besides the heater core at this point so I figure I’ll give that a shot or else I’m throwing in the towel and selling it as a project or get around town car. Does fine doing that but driving more than 20ish miles going above 40mph and the overheating (kinda) issue comes back. Rad is relatively new, along with rad hoses, been through two thermostats, water pump, coolant temp sensor, new fan after the last one blew from running too fast for too long, multiple coolant flushes, can’t find any bad grounds and power to fan is confirmed normal. Hell, even replaced the tipm on a suggestion. Only reason I haven’t done the heater core already is because I’ve heard it’s a giant pain doing it the correct way. And Ive been holding off on the hacky cut the pipe method in case I do want to sell. I don’t have any dependents and have a decent work from home job, allowing me to throw parts at it, otherwise I’d be up a creek.

Anyways, I’m going to try to swap the core this weekend regardless, just wanted to ask because my google skills aren’t producing. My current theory is either the core is clogged just enough that its slowing down coolant return to trip the fan, or theres pinhole leaks in it allowing air to get in and build up enough to cause a similar issue.

OK! I have a 2016 jeep Cherokee Trailhawk. It does not have Apple CarPlay. My question is can I take later model radios from like 2018 or 2017 that I find in a junkyard or something and put that in my jeep ? what options do I have outside of a third-party aftermarket radio to upgrade to have What options do I have outside of a third-party aftermarket radio to upgrade to have CarPlay Apple CarPlay?

I’ve searched and have seen this issue reported many times but no actual solution confirmed.

2015 JK left in a couple thunderstorms without top. Now the steering wheel and column controls are dead. Nothing on the sticks or wheel work. Compass is reporting fine.

From what I gather, clock spring will only affect wheel. Multi switch won’t affect wheel. All fuses report fine, and I’ve had the battery disconnected for a few days and still having the issue.

I’m about ready to take it to the dealer and get them to figure it out.

Any ideas?

My dad has been trying to figure out why my front turn signal works intermittently. He's an electrical engineer and can't solve it. So he suggested wiring it to the rear.

We've had a falling out and I'm wondering if I can do that myself. How hard is it? Aren't I just looking for one colour of wire, running my new one from it, through the firewall, along the floor, to the rear light?

Had a no crank/no start recently and my alarm light would not go off. I pulled the M13 fuse for siren out hearing that it worked as a reset. I put it back in and now my alarm is constant, even if I pull the fuse out.

I don’t have a key fob to just press a button. I have chip keys, but currently can’t find where I secured my spares.

Any quick fix on this? I didn’t even know my Jeep went into a siren alarm mode.

My driver side seat has a small tear in the fabric… should I get it fixed or just cover it in a seat cover to protect it? You cannot see the foam pad underneath really.

I had my flywheel replaced 5 years ago and just started having crank/no starts again. I took off the starter, rotated the crankshaft and saw my flywheel is missing dozens of teeth.

How long is a flywheel lifecycle? What could be doing his kind of significant damage?

Upon purchasing a jeep wrangler TJ 1997, the halo LED RGB headlights won't stop flashing different colors. I assumed that it was in discovery mode or that it was a prior setting the headlights jumped to for some reason.

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> If anyone has had experience connecting and regaining control over their Bluetooth headlights or if there is a remote out there to buy, any help would be greatly appreciated. Losing my mind over this the last few days.

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Can't stand the idea of looking like a party bus driving on by flashing red blue and green. Would be great to not get pulled over either lol thank you

First I love and plan on keeping my Rubicon for a loonngg time...

I (3rd owner) just put a new engine in it at 170k miles because of issues and I need it to be as close to 100% reliable.

The transmission seems ok, but it's got 170k miles on it. My guess is that it will die well before a new engine will.

The fact that it is hard to find info on an 8 speed swap in a JK should be a sign that there is not much value added for the cost. However, if this NAG1 dies, the value of the 8 speed swap goes up significantly since I will need a transmission anyway. I don't want to throw money away but at 20k miles per year, gaining gas mileage starts to make $$$ sense.

The question I have is: does any know of where this was done and what are the quantifiable gains if any?

Thank you in advance!

I have a new to me 97 TJ with the 4L motor. I am about to replace the exhaust manifold due to the usual cracking problems. It was recommended in a video that you check motor mounts while in there because excess vibration can cause the manifold to fail again. I am still new to suspension geometry and lift kits so I still don’t know what all is on this jeep but it is sitting on 33s. I can currently slide my finger between the metal strap on motor mount and bushing(so I am replacing it) do I need to pick up a motor mount designed for a lift or a spacer to fix this problem. I’ve seen some spacer blocks as well to fix this. Any advice from the collective

My 2010 Jeep axles / frame / control arms are starting to get surface rust and I want to make a plan to remediate as permanently as possible. I want to start with stuff that is easy to take off and fix and then put back on such as axles / control arms. My question is, what is the most salt resistant paint system to apply possible? I can have stuff sand blasted, but then I went through this all ~5 years ago and everything looks just as bad now as if I hadn't done it at all before. Previously I did sand blast, acid etch spray primer, 3 coats of black shiny rustoleum spray paint. Is there some boat paint I can use that will last 100 years?

Primer? # of coats? Type?

Paint? # of coats? Type?

Coats on top of paint of something else?

I’m looking to sell my wrangler, it likely needs quite a bit of work due to poor maintenance from the previous owner and I just don’t have the bandwidth or resources to do it myself.

Is anyone aware of a forum or place where folks looking to buy/work on these type of projects might be? Any info would be helpful!

Just bought a 2004 jeep wrangler

So my husband went and bought a 2004 jeep wrangler rubicon Tuesday. 125,000 miles and in great condition. He looked over all the important mechanical stuff and it all looked great! He looked inside as well and everything looked great that he could tell. They said he couldn’t bring it home until it went through the service department and got its inspection (hey that was totally fine to us anyway) well it was finally ready to pick u Saturday at lunch time. He brings it home and we went to install our kids car seats and there were NO BUCKLES! There were seatbelts but nothing to hook them into. And yes,we checked everywhere and even went as far as to take the whole seat out to look for them. On the inspection paper we got,it checked off the seatbelts. Which means either they lied on purpose and just checked it off or they just didn’t even really check it. We called the dealership and they told us to bring it back Monday morning and they would look at it. Are these hard to put in?

I have a 2001 Jeep TJ with a 4.0l and an interesting issue. When I first got it I had no heat so I went to replace the blend door actuator motor. After I put the new motor I still had the same problem. Long story short I found that the blend door that the actuator turns has something jammed in it and will not turn past halfway. I can get a little bit of heat but not enough to warm the interior with a soft top.

Anything I can find on youtube is all about the actuator motor replacement. I have tried manually turning the blend door a few hundred times to get whatever is blocking it out with no luck. So at this point I think I need to disassemble the vent system and get to the door physically.

Anyone have any guides or youtube links showing how to get to this part? I'm assuming that I have to pull the dash. I'm about to jump in for an 8 hour drive and it'll be nice and cold outside. I'd love to fix this next week.

Thanks in advance and happy new year!

I'm at a loss here. My 2013 Jeep Wrangler stalls the first few times I put it in reverse when it is less than 40 degrees.

This is only on cold starts though. My wrangler is an automatic with 160k miles.

Thanks in advance for any help here.

I’m looking to upgrade my 03 TJ with Dana 60’s. My budget sends me to the used market. I’m looking for tips on how to tell if used axles are in good shape. Thanks.

P0018 Jeep Jk 2013

Currently getting a p0018 crankshaft camshaft Bank 2 Sensor A code. Car runs smooth, no rough idle or jerking, but is going into limp mode after about 15 seconds of starting.

Most likely a sensor issue? Any tips would be appreciated.