I just bought a 2017 DR with 10k on it. When I first got it I had it inspected for running issues and while it pops due to a gsxr exhaust that has been put on it they said it runs great and is not too lean or rich.

Generally, I agree however, one time I downshifted from 3rd to 2nd and it stalled as I was slowing down to take a left turn (I just hit the start switch and it came back easy peezy). I do have a habbit of downshifting early and it doesn't seem to like that very much.

Two other times it has also stalled when I was at a light with one time I could hear the engine getting weaker and weaker until it stalled out and the other I was starting to creep forward.

To an extent I am wondering if these are all user error with the clutch and throttle as I'm still adjusting to having a single cylinder motorcycle. I do notice compared to other motorcycles I've ridden that it's power in the friction zone seems very weak with almost no forward movement just a sort of 'pull' but that could be normal for the DR.

So can anyone pipe in and either confirm that I need to practice or suggest what might be going on?

My 2018 only has 790 miles on it, and as the title says, there is an intermittent interruption/“catch” in the idle when stopped while out riding (engine warm). No problems starting the bike or it idling after startup (no stumbling, etc.). I have not done the initial valve clearance inspection. I would suspect this to be carb related.. vacuum mechanism? debris in carb? My Dad purchased the bike in 2018 and never rode it, so it sat for a few years with stabilizer and run infrequently. I have run several tanks of fresh gas through it (non-ethanol when possible). I imagine I should start with cleaning carb, but wanted to make sure this isn’t likely associated with valve clearance (which is to be inspected shortly, before 1k miles). Also, is there any risk or harm in delaying valve inspection to 1k? What I mean to ask is, how many have found the valves needing adjustment at first interval? Any experienced minds are appreciated.

Need some quick help here if possible. I was replacing the clutch and the new gasket is leaking. I took it off and noticed that one part of the gasket is warped. This is my only mode of transportation so it will be alot better if I can fix it right away while waiting for the new gasket.

My question is would it be a bad idea to cut the warp out and replace it with yamabond leaving the rest of the gasket?

Just curiosity of what people would choose in case DR650 couldn't be an option.

I had front and rear sprockets changed along with thr chain recently. Front sprocket was replaced with another 14 tooth and the rear was dropped from 45 to 44. With thr new chain fitted the tension adjustment was at 4 before any stretch.

Does this sound correct to you as I was expecting the tension setting to be lower to allow for stretching. And I habe a little under half the adjustment space left.

I had to scrape and replace the gasket. Some said to use gasket sealer others said not too. I opted not too. Hoping reapplying with gasket sealer will fix it but I’m calling it for today

Have a 2006 DR with 11k miles. Tore the whole thing apart and rebuilt it, including the carb. Used a mikuni rebuild kit, bike is stock except for exhaust, bike has an FMF Q4. It has a terrifying pop/backfire on acceleration that causes the whole bike to buck pretty hard. Im guessing the carb isnt jetted for the exhaust, so I'm looking for advice on re-jetting the carb for the exhaust. That is one option, the other is swapping the can. Does the gsrx can require re-jetting? Thank you

Hello, I recently switched out my stock handlebars for the protaper evo adventure with warp9 mounts. I dislike the new position of the bars now as they feel too high and close to my body, making it harder to handle the bike. I like the bars because of the additional space they give me but would like to have them lower. Does anybody have any good recommendations for fatbar mounts with little or no rise compared to the stock ones?

Thank you!

Bikes always been knotchy as hell to shift. I have a 2024. It's always happened but lately a lot more. I'll be in second gear for about 2-5 seconds then it'll slip to neutral. Sketchy as hell to lose power when accelerating quickly. At about 7k miles. It's this something to be worried about before my warranty is up? Is it normal to get a grind feeling trying to go to first? Not everytime but feels like what ever needs to mesh struggles. Oil change usually helps but I'm only at 600 miles on this change.

When installing an aftermarket exhaust, did you guys keep the OEM gasket that was in there or did you only use gasket maker?

Or a combination of both?

I’ve got a small exhaust leak coming from my Lexx Mxe install, maybe I didn’t use enough gasket maker.

Thanks!

Does anyone have a 3D model of a DR650 available. I thought it would be fun to try and print a small model of the bike. I dont see any diecast toys on the market. Looking online, I see sites that have models but charge $100+ for download. Just curious if anyone has something or attempted to print one before.

Hello everyone!

As the title suggests, I'm looking for your opinions on the use of a fork brace.

I just installed one on mine but haven't had the chance to try it, but as i was installing, it started to raise more questions than answers.

One thing is for sure, when locking the wheel with my legs and trying to move the steering, it's a lot more solid than before.

As I ride mainly off road, I can see it becoming a problem when riding on thick mud, or getting a branch stuck there os something like that.

So I ask for the opinion of all of you fellow DR riders: Have you used a fork brace? Is it worth it for mainly off road use? Have you had any troubles with one?

Thank you!

p.s: if you briefly saw this post made by another accont it was me by mistake.

Edit: I know the suspension is shit and I’m not expecting miracles. I’m just curious so I got one and wanted to know opinions as I haven’t asked before 😅

First dr650. Just had it shipped up from LA & i’m in the Sierras where it’s pretty cold (and 3000’+ higher in elevation) Put a new battery in it and it cranked fine but would not fire. Only way to get the bike running is with starting fluid and holding the throttle open until the bike warms up. Then it will ride and continue to start.
Every time I come back to the bike it won’t start again on its own.
PO said it ran fine the same day it shipped. Also claimed he fully rebuilt and cleaned the carb just couple months prior. I tried backing out the pilot screw to richen up the mix, idle screw is adjusted. Using my jump pack to keep cranking amps Upgraded air intake Procycle jet kit

Hi! I'm from Argentina, and the new DR650 2025 has just arrived here. I've only owned one bike before, a KTM Duke 200, and I'm really excited about getting a dual sport. Do you think it's a significant upgrade? (Must update my license for the Suzuki)

https://motoblog.com/finalmente-suzuki-lanza-su-legendaria-dr650-para-el-mercado-argentino-con-un-precio-de-usd-13-900/

Hi,

I have a 1992 DR650 looking for a rear shock replacement. I believe the 1996 rear shock onwards don't fit. Are there any recommendations for one that's not going to cost 700€? I'm based in Ireland so Europe based sellers would be preferred.

Thanks!