There will be a few months where it doesn't get above 15 degrees F. At what point is it to cold to run the carb stock? Anything different I need to do to be able to use it daily? Battery tinder I'm guessing. Bike will be stored in unheated garages. It stays dry here but will need to go on dirt/gravel road occasionally wondering if I need something more aggressive. 1200 elevation.

What are some key things that are different (visually) between the newer post 1996 models and the older ones? I know the post 1996 models are more desired and would like to know some easy differences that can spot them apart. Thanks.

I’m looking to buy a dr 650.

I wanted to buy one used but the closest bike is 600 miles away where it’s initial value is worth also paying shipping for. The total still comes out to a price similar to me just buying a new bike between $6.5 ~ 7.5 grand.

What are some good resources I can use to shop around for a bike if this is my first bike buying experience and what should I expect to pay for a bike around initial sale value or msrp?

I’m pretty sold on the dr650. Looked into the klr, drz, some triumph bikes, and a bunch of alternatives but for a $6.5 ~ $7.5 grand price range with a couple grand for wiggle room and equipment the 650 is feeling like my best option.

I live in Florida. Coldest it gets is 32° F three days out of the year. It’s also the dry season. Hardly rains during this time of year and it’s very predictable / short lived if it does rain. I’m well experienced with the cold and will take necessary precautions.

Anyone done this? Feel like my dr is going to topple over in the breeze.

How much did you cut off?

Just picked up a brand new 2025 ($7860 OTD in case wondering, includes tags) and I went with new because being my first carboreted bike I knew it would be a learning curve and I wanted to start with one that was unmolested. It runs like absolute shit. The dealership is at a higher elevation than where I live so the fact that it runs lean out the door is really messing with performance. My question is: can I change the fuel/air mix? Can the dealership? Does the idle screw adjust the air or the fuel? Will it void warranty if I do it myself? I haven't looked at the carb all that closely and until our garage is finished I'm keeping it in storage ten miles away so I can't just go and look at it. I heard adjusting the carb requires drilling through an anti tamper plug, is that true that I can't adjust the idle? Thanks, and I'm excited to join this community!

EDIT Well, it was a vacuum issue as I had forgot to reattach the petcock vacuum hose *smacks forehead.

So, sparkplug replacement and/or using heat shrink wrap over duct tape on the tank vent line has got me back to speed!

Thanks for the help everyone!

So far:

I’ve changed the sparkplugs. Dual electrode (wasn’t sure how to gap them but most things I read said dual electrode is fine out of the box)

I adjusted the valves and put new fuel lines and new plastic disc filter (got rid of the really small one last year) a few weeks ago, and bike felt amazing.

It was a few days after valve adjustment that I noticed the gas tank vacuum hose was disconnected from the tank. Maybe it fell off, maybe I didn’t put it back on. Anyways, there had been some damage to the line. I duct taped it, and things seemed fine till a few days ago. Today, I shrink wrapped the vacuum line.

I know there are lots of other variables, but to keep things simple and procedural, I want to eliminate this hose as an issue.

Everything is stock.

Is it true one can take the gas cap of while running to see if it improves? What about pulling the vaccum line off while running and covering with thumb to feel suction?

I am pretty sure it’s fuel deliver related as when idling it will die if “ON” but idles much longer in “Prime”.

I am going to clean air filter in the mean time.

I had a DR650 a few years back my uncle bought for me, unfortunately I ended up needing to sell it to pay off some bills. I'm looking at getting another one, however I'm 23 and my credit score isn't fantastic. I make a decent amount and work 40hrs a week, and I'll be saving up over this winter.

I live in NY so riding is limited to half the year, but I'm curious how much I should save up to put down/what I can expect for a monthly payment.

Any advice is much appreciated!

I don't want to jet my carburetor but I'd like to stop the slight poping when downshifting. Anyone know if opening the idle screw a little will help?

As the title states, there is a DR for sale near me with a blown top end for $1k. Everything else about the bike appears to be in great shape for just under 30k miles. It has me thinking about the ProCycle big bore kit for $750. What needs to be upgraded if I were to go with the big bore kit? Valves, cams, transmission? What else should I know about this kit? I have never rebuilt an engine so any info is greatly appreciated.

Anyone buy the shocks directly from cogent dynamics?

They do not respond to emails. I’m trying to cancel my order now but they’re ghosting.

I know this is an issue that has been answered before but mine has a specific set of circumstances.

I ride a 30km round trip everyday for work and go for weekend cruises.

Here’s the order of events

- Bought the bike (2015 DR650SE 19,8xxkm) running horribly but I didn’t know it was running horrible.. likely bad valve clearance, bad idle and air fuel mixture was the cause of the rough cruising. Spark plugs, new air filter, oil filter and oil change significantly improved things however and I was satisfied with it how it was.

- Saw people saying “cut a hole in the air box and remove the snorkel so it can breathe better!” Misinterpreted that by a long shot and went and cut a circle out without getting a jet kit thinking the bike would benefit. Turns out it results in horrible bogging, so I went over and taped it back up and put the snorkel back in, problem solved. No issues and runs as expected again.

- After a few weeks of riding no problems I honestly was not convinced that the way it was running was normal, so I took it into a mechanics for a service and it came out running beautifully. After the service I could see in hindsight how the bike hated revving high. It was horrible, but I gained a significant amount of power after the service and it revs smoothly along the entire rev range and didn’t lug so much in low Revs anymore.

- All was good for about a week until it began bogging again in the exact same way as when I cut the hole, something must have happened to the tape. Lo and behold the tape has caved in. Not to worry, I'll just replace the tape and it will perform properly again. Wrong. It made no difference to the performance. I lie, maybe a little bit but it was still boggy with significantly less power. I ensured about 3-4 times that the tape had properly air sealed the hole just like the first time I did it and it is definitely sealing that hole.

- Yeah I don't know whats going on maybe I'll just take the snorkel out again since I've had the service I'll see if it could potentially improve the situation a bit (In hindsight that was stupid). So I go for a cruise around the block to feel out the rev range and unsurprisingly it was even more boggy than before as I expected so I went to ride it back home when it stalled after going to speed up out of a turn. That was the last time it ran properly. That was the point in time it began instantly dying from any amount of throttle twist. It started and idled perfectly fine and I found I could switch the choke all the way on and ride the clutch to roll all the way home without using the throttle.

- I get home and chuck the snorkel back in and started her back up to see if it would restore ability to throttle. The issue still persists. The bike is dying instantly upon applying any amount of throttle. I have done nothing to troubleshoot the problem apart from clean out the inline fuel filter in the fuel inlet neck as I have no clue why this is happening and don't know where to start. I'm stuck on whether something is up with the carby or something to do with the airbox is causing this issue. Currently, the bike is in exactly the same state that it was out of the mechanics. Therefore I'm under the impression that it should behave the same way.'

Thanks for anyones help

Replace the foam (stuff) or replace the seat all together? If you stuffed it what foam did you use? If you replaced it what seat did you buy?

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Hello everyone! I had a request from a user a while back that loves the purple retro graphics from the older Dr's. He upgraded his tank to an oversized Acerbic tank and wanted to recreate the retro graphics. I thought this was an awesome way to keep the aesthetic alive so I made the files and wanted to post them here in case anyone else ran into this scenario.

Couple of notes, I haven't printed the files, so depending on the printer, the colors may be slightly off but should be very close, I did my best to color match but don't have the decals in hand so going off of pics can be difficult. I can always make edits and update the files as needed. I included files with the cut line already added (for Roland printers but should be able to change easily for any printer) around the outside, same as the original graphics. I also added a couple files with no cut lines in case that's helpful for anyone. I have an IMS tank on my Dr so I sized the graphics according to that, the Acerbic tank might be different. Again, if the files need tweaked just let me know and I'll do my best to update them asap

Here is a Google Drive link: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1NZsGA9UUETgY4s8g0nkJlRv_R4Vnw7eD?usp=sharing

And a backup DropBox link: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/4pkvc5gk5epn08swqxg6g/AGQFb627IEw4rWmLPHRBvJo?rlkey=7b9fs5rujt8sxb0njqz3rnj0c&st=k4hd6isn&dl=0

After trying to get it to idle for days now I finally got it to roughly idle after warming up. It’ll occasionally die in second with the clutch pulled in. Ran it a couple miles and it’s not running great. Got home and sprayed some starter around the intake boot and the revs jumped a little so I’m thinking I’ve got a leak. I’ve taken the carb off a lot lately and I guess I damaged it during that. Was gonna pull it off tomorrow and have a better look. I recently put the warp 9 choke nut on it and am wondering if that could also be the culprit. I can’t really tell since I can barely get under the acerbis gas tank to spray the boot. Either way. Would I be able to repair the boot with some red gasket sealer once I take it off? Or put a ring around it and then let it set so that I can get a better seal?