I have too many cameras. (I know, it's possible). Some of them were discount purchase ride-alongs (I buy a lens, it comes with a body attached; I buy a camera, it has three buddies in the lot). Some I don't use as much as I thought I might (looking at you Pentax Auto 110). Some are redundant (do I need both an Olympus XA and an XA2? Do I need four mid-range AF zoom lenses?). I think of myself more as a photographer than a collector, and don't really want to have gear just to have it.

So I'm curious, do you periodically weed out your camera collection? How do you decide what to keep and what to let go? How do you deal with the replacement cost worries, or the "but it was a bargain" stubbornness? How do you actually get rid of gear?

Hi everyone,

I’m using a Fujifilm X-T3 (APS-C) with a Canon FD 50mm f3.5 Macro lens to scan 35mm film. I read that this lens only reaches 1:1 magnification with an FD 25 extension tube.

My question is: How does this work on an APS-C sensor?

What magnification do I get with and without the tube, and how would it affect the way 35mm film is scanned?

Also, could someone explain how to calculate the reproduction ratio on APS-C?

Thanks for any help!

I try to usually avoid having to make posts like this but I think in this case I'm kinda at a loss. The effect is obvious in the scans, and possible to see on the negatives (hard to see on the attached shots)

I've developed 5 rolls recently. I'm using a Paterson tank and the Bellini C41 kit. I'm on my second "cycle" with this kit (so refreshed developer but the same fix, bleach, stabilizer)

Gold 200 x2 (+1 push) (35mm) - Frames with severely underexposed areas came out with a strange "wavy" effect. In well exposed or over-exposed frames the effect is not noticeable. I tried looking this up at the time, and the closest I could find was is was possibly a light leak. I was very tired and forgot to lock the funnel before dev so it came loose for a quick moment. I chalked it up to that even though it was very strange and carried on. One roll seemed to have it worse than the other, so this made sense.

Vision3 250D x2 (no push) (35mm) (Kodak prebath and c41) - These came out fine, these had very few underexposed frames but the ones that did didn't have the same effect or at least it wasn't noticeable

Portra 800 (no push) (120) - Same as the rolls of Gold, severely underexposed areas have the strange "Wavy" effect. I took a lot of this roll at night so the effects were definitely emphasized.

My guess is that it's a light leak in my tank or my chemistry. The way the "waves" all "run" the same way and the fact that it didn't happen on all rolls seems to support the light leak issue

https://preview.redd.it/novgs5vd4iyd1.jpg?width=5184&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=265a3304f26245bfa26fd725a59f636d30fc5a49

https://preview.redd.it/qzyio5vd4iyd1.jpg?width=5184&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a407377e48f6f8a65a370db4734617b335b17f68

Gold 200 35mm

Gold 200 35mm

Portra 800 120

Portra 800 120

Hello, I'm currently looking to buy a Reflecta RPS 10M to scan at home, and wondering about which version of silverfast would suit me best. (No version comes with the scanner)

I almost exclusively shoot Black and white film, mainly Tmax and Tri-X, and I'm wondering about the value gained by the AI version of silverfast vs the SE plus version. It seems that the main upgrade is the IT8 calibration for more accurate colors, do you know how different the files are straight out of Silverfast for B&W ?

150€ more for the AI version needs to come with some value for me to consider it. Is the upgrade more of a color upgrade or is the SE plus version good enough for my B&W work ?

Are there differences/limitations to the depth of TIFF files coming out of both versions ?

I'm also open to Vuescan, tho less knowledgeable on it, could I get the same results as Silverfast Se plus or AI ? (Without having to use Negative lab pro in Lightroom after) What's your experience vs Silverfast ?

Thanks for your time.

Hello! I’m really excited to get my first SLR as a beginner photographer, and after a lot of research, I’ve decided on the Olympus OM-2n. I absolutely love the mechanical feel and design of this camera. I had the chance to hold one last week, and I fell in love with the viewfinder and how tactile everything is. However, I’m facing a bit of a dilemma with the available listings I found online within my budget and region.

Both cameras I found are on Kamerastore’s website. They’re described as “fully functional manual cameras,” but their Auto modes don’t work (for unknown reasons). The fully functional "certified" units cost twice as much,

So, I have two questions:

1. Since I have a basic understanding of how the manual controls will work, I feel like taking a good picture in Manual mode might just add around ~5s for me to select the right shutter speed, which would be aided by the viewfinder’s needle meter, as far as I understand. Am I likely to regret not having access to Auto mode? Are there any other things I might miss out on with a Manual-only model?
2. I assume this Auto mode issue might be fixable. If anyone has experience with this, I’d love to know if it’s something that could be repaired at a reasonable cost. The camera itself would cost me around $160 (converted from EUR).

Another consideration: the cameras come without lenses or accessories, but I’ve found some inexpensive used lenses on the same website. Most of these lenses are marked as dirty and/or a bit beat up, so I’d probably just pick up a couple of “untested” ones. If you think this would be a mistake, please let me know.

Finally, any additional advice, things to keep in mind, suggestions, or alternative camera recommendations you might have would be very, very appreciated. Thank you!

recently bought this camera and lens together and noticed this haze/dust type stuff in the lens, the photos seem fine so far but my subconscious need for it to be fully clear is driving me crazy so wanna know if anyone knows what it is. Btw this can be seen in the lens even when it’s detached so I know it’s not like a viewfinder thing and I can’t make it go away with a dust blower

[Help] Hey, I shot 6 photos and my camera broke. I managed to take out the film safely. Is it possible to load the film into Zenit ES and not expose photose I've taken?

Hey all,

I will shortly be leaving for a 3 week trip through Vietnam. Im looking forward to capturing the beauty of the country on film. I am however debating a few things that I need help with:

-Camera(s) I am currently packing my Minolta X700 with a prime 50mm and an Olympus XA (small camera that I can put in my pockets for hikes and what not). Im still debating on also bringing a 135mm lens for landscape photography. I cant yet say how much I will use it, any advice on this would be nice because it does take quite some space in the camera bag.

-Film Currently sitting a stock of portra 400, fuji 200 and HP5. Going to take a variety of those with me. I am however debating on taking a roll of cinestill 800T and portra 800 with me for Hanoi's and Saigon's nightlife. For the people who did this; is it worth it or should I stick to iso400 film and leave valueable cinestill/portra800 at home.

-Developing Because Im only there for 3 weeks I am not staying at certain places for long. I am considering to get my colour film developed in Saigon. Does anyone have any recommendations and turn around rates? I will probably be there for 2.5 days so I would be in need of a fast turn around.

Thanks in advance!

I've noticed an issue specifically with Kodak 120 film (Portra 160/400 and Gold 200) when rewinding or unloading in my Pentax 67. The paper seal either ends up inside the film, requiring me to unroll part of the film to retrieve it (not at all lot of course), or wraps around the silver spring intended for film tension. Three out of the five rolls these issues happens. These problems only occurs with my Pentax 67 and not with other 120 cameras I own.

The first issue is that when I rewind the film the paper strip goes inside the film, I have to unroll it slightly to remove the seal, which makes the film sometimes a bit bulkier (1-2 frames with light leaks).

The second and the biggest issue occurs when the seal wraps around the film tension spring, which prevents the film lever from advancing to finish the roll. To fix this, I have to open the camera in the dark, and break the paper seal in the dark and secure the 120 film with kitchen tape.

Any idea why this might be happening? Thanks!

I’m facing an issue with my recently purchased Ricoh KR-10 Super. It was working perfectly; I shot two rolls without any issues. But yesterday, I accidentally pressed the shutter release while the shutter was cocked, with a lens and the lens cap on, and I was shooting on A (auto shutter speed). The mirror went up, the shutter opened, and now it’s been stuck like this for over 12 hours.

I researched possible causes but haven’t been able to find a solution. Here’s what I’ve tried so far:

• Opened the bottom and manually released the lever to advance the frame. This briefly closed the shutter, but as soon as I let go, it reverted to the same issue.
• Inserted fresh batteries.
• Switched to Bulb and 1/125, then pressed the shutter release.

None of these steps have resolved the problem. Any suggestions on what to try next?

I just wanted to hear different opinions on thus two scanning methods.

Since i shoot manly 35mm I decided to go back to DSLR scanning. My v850 needed repair after only one year of using it, it was very time consuming and the quality was not great. The only thing that was convenient was the iSRD functionality.

My main concern about DSLR scanning is getting good 120 results. My last set up was fairly cheap: Old Fujifilm X-T100, vintage Minolta 1:2 macro lens and Lomography digitalyza +.

This time I will use my Fuji X-S10, probably a 7artisans macro and valoi masks.

For those who scan 120 on DSLR on a regular basis, what would be your recommendation in terms of gear and workflow to beat the results that you get from epson flatbeds in this two categories:

120 quality (the results I got with the v850 were very good). Dust and scratches.

Thanks for your help, happy to hear your opinion.

I have been scanning with an epson v850 and was not happy with the results.

This year I shot 35mm regularly and barely no 120 so I decided to go back to DSLR scanning.

I have encountered different options for the scanning masks and the ones that seem to work best for me are the valoi 360.

I did not consider the easy35 since I read many negative reviews, seems overpriced and I might shoot 120 every now and then.

I just read that they are releasing an easy120 next month but its still seems very overpriced.

I wanted to know your opinion on the 360 kit (the complete version), it still seems a bit overpriced but way better build quality and kind of reasonable compared to some competitors.

There are some other newer options, like the lobster film holder, that I have not been able ti find many reviews.

Its kind of annoying the amount of reviews that you seem of some product from certain brands because they gifted it to different content creators and almost no reviews from other products that seem pretty legit and waaaay less overpriced.

Hello, any advice on cleaning a Enlarger Lens, and also is this fungus and can i clean this? thanks in advance

Hey, I build mobile apps and I’m looking to build a passion project. I’m trying to gather ideas for an app which will help us analog photographers whilst developing film/prints, so if you have any ideas for features please feel free to send them over, much appreciated! I’ll keep those interested updated on progress, I’d love to help the community.

I’m not looking to make any profit from this and the app would be free

Hey, I build mobile apps and I’m looking to build a passion project. I’m trying to gather ideas for an app which will help us analog photographers whilst developing film/prints, so if you have any ideas for features please feel free to send them over, much appreciated!

I’m not looking to make any profit from this and the app would be free

I just acquired this camera and have read somewhere that the el variant uses an electronic shutter but it still seems to fire without a battery in it was curious as if it was a requirement or not and if the wrong battery could mess with the shutter speeds

I recently bought a used Plustec 7200i. as it is supposed to be superior to my flatbed, a Canon 9000F II.
I used the testversion of Vuescan to test it out. I did not find it a huge step up.
I have posted a side by side comparison of two crops of a 100 iso film from each scanner. The cropped part is not in perfect focus and I know I could work some with the exposure on the right one, but apart from that, which is the best scan?

https://preview.redd.it/pp5qyy181gyd1.png?width=1917&format=png&auto=webp&s=980415a444abbeaf35096689db5bf1fee07866c7

Hi everyone so I just bought my first 35mm ( canon ftb-ql) and I am going on vacation so. I have two question I have allways been fascinating with the dream film and warm hue of certain photos what would be film option. Second I am going to a tropical/humid/low altitude area would my film be ok

TLDR:question 1: what film should I use for a warm and dramatic like feeing

Question 2 : tropic/humid/low altitude area good for film and how long do it stay safe

Hey guys just wondering if any of you have experienced anything similar to this. I'm trying to scan 35mm negatives using the Canon 9000f flatbed scanner and SilverFast 8.8 Ai Studio. The prescan shows these ugly lines over the image, and when I scan the frames the lines appear in thinner colorband strips. I have tried reinstalling both the program and the scanner with various different drivers and nothing has helped. I'm not having any issues using VueScan so I doubt it's a hardware issue. I do prefer the SilverFast UI because I'm familiar with it already so would be amazing if anybody knows what's wrong here.

https://preview.redd.it/0rstfls9nfyd1.png?width=551&format=png&auto=webp&s=e6a6899b3f818f6832a5db18b9800887a91b3fd0

https://preview.redd.it/6rfbiks9nfyd1.png?width=819&format=png&auto=webp&s=0e11200feb7a8677288da2784affa535713d378b

A Pentax Me Super. So excited to shoot more with it. I used an entire 24 exposure iso 200 kodak gold in about an hour it works great,and i love it. Also excited to see how that roll comes out.

Hi everyone,

I want to shoot some expired film over the weekend. I have 2 rolls each of Agfa Vista 200(Exp 2005) and Kodak Gold 100(Exp 2007).

While I have an Olympus Trip35 as my regular P&S camera, I want to try Pentax Espio 135M this time.

Can anyone suggest how to over expose by 2 stops with this camera. Any tips or workaround tricks would be appreciated.

Read somewhere online that if the DX code is disabled on the canister, the Espio 135M defaults to 25 ISO. Can anyone confirm this? If this is true, I am set for the Kodak Gold 100. Still need to figure out for the Agfa Vista 200. Is there any way I can over expose by 2 by adjusting any camera settings?

After months of development, we’ve launched the Zebra Silver Sensitising Tank—designed with wet plate photographers in mind. It’s built to offer the reliability and durability that analog enthusiasts need in both studio and field settings.

If you’re into wet plate or alternative processes, you might find this an interesting tool for your kit. Early Bird spots are limited, so check out the campaign if you're curious, and feel free to share with anyone who might be interested!

Thanks for supporting analog creativity! 🦓

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/zebradryplates/zebra-sensitising-tank-built-for-wet-plate-photographe

https://preview.redd.it/w16b8kyhk8yd1.jpg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0ea61239273c59c4be4f5770eb639baad78e18fc

I currently have neither a confocal microscope, or actually any old color film using an outdated process, something like Kodachrome. But, in theory, maybe this is something doable. The 3 color channels are isolated into 3 different physical layers, which is preserved in black and white processing, just without any dyes forming.

I suspect that a normal microscope would be unable to attain sufficient separation between the layers, but confocal microscopes are basically built for this kinda stuff, it should be feasible to separate the layers with one. If anyone happens to have one of those(or maybe you know someone in a university who can access one), maybe go try it out, idk. Just thought of this idea randomly and figured I would implant it into your brains too.