/r/FixMyPrint
The community of r/FixMyPrint will help you fix your 3D printer settings for the most optimal prints.
FixMyPrint will help serve the 3D printing community by providing tips based on uploaded bad print images and settings.
Posting Guide:
First check the links in the wiki to calibrate your printer. Try searching the relevant subreddits for how other people solved your same print issue.
Please provide as much information about your printer and its settings as you can. Here is a quick checklist:
Provide clear images and/or video if you can.
When you do figure out the solution that works, please let us know to help those in the future!
Be cool!
Resources:
Related subreddits:
/r/FixMyPrint
Have no idea what went wrong Printed with PETG with 240C on Bambu A1 mini
I sliced in OrcaSlicer with tree support, now I cannot remove it. Printer Bambulab A1 mini
Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro .4 nozzle
ORCA Slicer
PLA @ 210 Bed at 65
0.20mm layer height (default)
Recently updated to a all metal hot end but still need to updater the thermistor for higher temp printing
Top layer keeps acting like the nozzle is being drag across but feel like the z offset is pretty good based off a single layer print.
Also prints keeps keep getting a few layers where its like it skips the outerwall, tried doing some round nuts that had one seem and seems to get worse as it was coming back to the seem itself.
thanks for any help and advice in advance
Adventure 3 Pro .4 nozzle Overture TPU @ 220c; Bed at 60c 40mm/s print speed 1mm retraction at 25mm/s. (default 5mm) 45% fill density (default 15%) .18mm layer height (default)
I’ve tried temps as high as 235 and print speeds as low as 20mm/s all with VERY SLIGHT improvements on the above.
Any hints would be much appreciated. I’ve already done 10 prints and and can’t seem to figure this out.
I have a Creality Max Neo. It’s been incredibly reliable with ABS but since I’m doing more prints for outdoor applications I wanted to switch to PETG. I got a Garolite sheet since I heard it cleans easily and prints with PETG beautifully. I had a magnetic sheet from an old PEI bundle I never used and attached to the underside. I knew I’d have to recalibrate. Used a digital level and auto-leveled, I’m perfect in terms of bed leveling. My first print was seriously warped. Bed temp was 60. Increased bed temp to 75 and Tried again with a calibration cube watching the first layer. My Z calibration when I was printing ABS and PLA was -2.09. First layer at -2.09 was ragged. Tried again setting the Z to -2.25. Seemed okay but as it got closer to the middle it started getting rougher and rougher.
I’m out of ideas. I’m also new to fine tuning my machine as I’ve been lucky in the past and had to do only minor tweaks to get it where I wanted.
So I don’t necessarily know what’s going on… I have a Anycubic Kobra 2 max I just got and noticed the fan won’t spin. I mean in the settings it’s at 100%. I figured it’s a bad fan so I ordered some new ones and installed one. Still won’t spin. I tested to make sure power is coming to the fan with a meter and it is, don’t necessarily know if I need to check if it’s the right amount of power but power is coming to the fan and the fan should definitely be good.
i am using a stealth burner CW2 and i keep on having this problem im printing PLA at 220 with a revo HF 0.4 nozzle and its been a few days where it just stops extruding and most of the time when i pull out the filament has that bunchup, im running 0.8mm retraction slicer is orcaslicer i have taken the extruder apart aswell but i cant find the cause
I'm using an Ender 3, using Cura slicer. Grey Overture PLA. Nozzle temp is 208°C and bed is 50°C. Print speed is at 50mm/s. My retraction distance is 2mm and the speed is at 45mm/s. Any help would be greatly appreciated 👍
I printed one with a different filiment that had a few overhangs but they came right off and the print looked great. What happened here?
Hi, I was wondering what could be causing this. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated!
PRINTER STUFF:
Qidi Tech x-plus 1
Silk PLA 1.75 mika3d
Retraction 5
Retraction Speed 45mms
Nozzle Temp 220
Bed Temp 56
Slicer Cura
I have strange printing problem with my Zebra printer, for some reason it leaves greyed out marks. Does anyone know how to fix this?
The board is the Creality Ender 5+ silent board (2208 drivers). Recently it "turns off" the X-axis motor after the first faster movement. More specifically, it speeds up, does it's job and then turns off after stopping. The rest of the motors keeps working. It usually happens during homing when it rushes to the center of the plate.
I swapped the cables of two motors on the board, and it's still the same driver that does this. I tried a print with very slow (50mm/s @ 3mm^2/s) and it does work as intended.
I suspect the driver does the funny when it receives a larger kick (back EMF?) when it decelerates and then jerk-stops the motor.
Machine ..was.. an ender 5 plus but at this point it's more of a custom build.
Printing on normal settings(besides not using raft and only brim) this is what the top layer looks like. Now I know that ironing should help but I wonder if it’s only a game of temperatures changing that could help it without adding 10% of print time