I have an old Kano kit usb motion sensor. It's been discontinued, and I have long since lost the book for it.

Rather than be locked into their app, how would I go about reading data from it? On an old computer I remember I would wave at it and launch games.

Hi! I've got a Redmi note 7 and I wanted to do something with it, it works fine, the battery is pretty normal too it lasts a day, and the phone looks new with the exception of a crack at the back, I was thinking of making some sort of usefull gadget with it but I have no idea what, i dont have anything smart home related so that's out of the question..

I'm opened to suggestions on ideas on what to do with an old phone.

https://preview.redd.it/ozf5eom4l2md1.jpg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b94585519dfba805f1dee278b51209a95337e430

https://preview.redd.it/dfm8k34bl2md1.jpg?width=3472&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d416baa320e939e3cb97578f7e252a684926559c

i tried this

i have checked the schematics of the battery (nokia BL-5J) to check which pin is positive and negative i also checked the polarity of the wires

i plugged into the wall to try to make it work but it didnt power on so i checked it with multimeter, it had power but the phone didnt turn on

is there a chance the phone might be dead? (the phone got a little hot near the cameras when i touched it)

do i need to solder the pins and the wires to try to make them work? (i have not soldered them cause i dont have a soldering iron i have tried to wrap them around the pins)

(the power button is broken so like i tried a sharp object to press it in to try to power it on)

https://preview.redd.it/4hoqxykor3bd1.png?width=396&format=png&auto=webp&s=ec7b60f440c0a8e4ff716245ae224efd67951f06

This image above is of the pin layout of a RJ12 socket. The full drawing can be found here: https://www.assmann-wsw.com/uploads/datasheets/ASS_7320_CO.PDF

The rows are separated by 0.1" (2.54mm) and so are the pins within each row. But the rows are staggered by 0.05" (1.27mm), so it doesn't fit into a normal 0.1" pitch perfboard. Every socket that I found on digikey has the same layout. How do I attach this to a perfboard? Do I have to use a 0.05" pitch perfboard and deal with it or is there some kind of adapter that I can use?

Might be the wrong subreddit. If so please delete.

I have zero electrical engineering experience (or any engineering experience in general) but I want to learn the basics. Specifically I would like to understand the basic functions of various electronic components and how they function. I would also like to learn how to assemble things like a drone from premade parts. Would anyone have any tips on how to get started? Would a commercial build a drone kit be a good place to start? I'm sure my local community college has a course I could take. Would that be something? Any advice would be appreciated 🤙

Also if this is the wrong sub to ask any directions to other subs would be awesome. Thanks!

I'm trying to hack a CPAP machine and this is the UART accessory port for the machine. I'm not sure what the exact kind of port here is but my normal jumper wires wont fit in it. Before I break out the solder, wanted to know what kind of port this was.

https://preview.redd.it/o2nvbf8ab06d1.jpg?width=708&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6b9d0451b37eb752795da5d5ea8ef459705fec77

I hope this is the right sub for this question.

So, this may sound rudimental, but I can't find any helpful answers when I search this on Google. So, my question really is about the low-level process that happens when a generic device is paired with one bluetooth reciever. For most mid to high-end products, like Logitec, the bluetooth is reprogrammable, but not with the generic ones - there is only one transmitter-reciever pair. I am getting into hardware hacking and I'm trying to understand what the low-level processes are of these things. I know I'm probably never going to be able to reprogram a mouse to pair with a different reciever (or anything like that) but if I know how it works, I will feel a lot better about life. I really want to be able to do some cool low-level stuff one day, but for now I'm just tinkering with old keyboards and mouses trying to figure this out.

I have an old portal of power for the wii skylanders game. It's an RFID scanner. How would I go about reading data from it with my pc? Using lsusb, the device name isID 1430:0150 RedOctane wireless receiver for skylanders wii.

I unfortunately do not have any skylanders to test with, although I have an amiibo and some NFC cards (although I don't think they'll be compatible).

I'm looking for a way to control my router from the commandline with ssh. What are my options for doing this?

Hi all, I've brought a second hand EV charger and it's locked to the previous owner so the pin keeps getting sent to them and they're not replying to any of my messages.

Is there a way around this. I paid quite a lot for the charger and its really getting me down

Many thanks Hayley

I have some extra cash left and just got into IoT and embedded systems. I think its really cool and would love to buy cool bluetooth controlled gadgets to kill some time lol, basically. Thats all im looking for. I could try building one but wouldn't anything with esp32s be too big or expensive? So for now i could avoid building if i could just buy one instead.

I am in the process of building a tattoo machine that is barebones and simple to work on. Our industry uses battery packs with an RCA male connector and outputs a variable voltage anywhere from 4v to 12 volts typically. I developed a machine that works using a typical power supply, however when I plug in a battery, the batteries tend to throw beeps or error codes my way. I'm assuming this is some sort of safety feature built into the battery itself. Given this hopelessly small amount of information, would anyone know of a solution?

My machine is simple, a dc toy motor attached to an RCA female adapter by way of small 18g wire leads.

This is the battery I intend to use : Critical Connect Universal Battery Shorty - Critical Tattoo Supply

my portfolio: Jonathan TatroTattoos (@tatsbyjontatro) • Instagram photos and videos

So, a long long time ago I backed a project on indiegogo and received a Nextdrive Plug. It's essentially a network attached usb port. You can plug storage into it, and be able to remotely acess it with an app, use it as a remote webcam, add a usb-a cd player to your smartphone if you really wanted to, etc.

That was several years ago. I did a little searching and they don't seem to exist anymore. But I have one. And I want to use it with a phone that while is still old by today's standards, is much younger that the drive. So, the app was made for a previous version of android.

I'm using android 10 on my galaxy S9. I was able to find the Nextdrive Connect app and install it, but it can't see the plug while searching. Neither from the app itself nor scanning bluetooth devices.

I get a flashing light on the plug before it goes solid, so it looks like it's finishing it's boot process, but I can't connect to it.

I have a raspberry pi 3b+ that I might be able to test with, but I just don't even know where to begin.

Ok so, I have a g3100 model verizon router, and an ubuntu laptop. How can I make a script that will toggle the internet access for a specific mac address connected to that router? I have admin rights to the network.

Currently, I need to use the web interface to login to the router, and manually select which device to turn off, and manually turn it back on, or set a rule in the router to do it automatically.

I want to be able to just push a single button and toggle the connection for that specific device.

the case has adt on the outside, the inner circuit board has 200-0939v3 revC resideo 2019. i remember in older electronics you could press a reset button and viola start from scratch, but this thing is pretty much useless or bricked to me since the previous owner of the house locked it with their codes and didn't leave anything with the realtor. Anyways, can I hack this open to default? I don't see a internal battery anywhere, so I'm guessing the memory is holding the configurations. I can't get it to respond to anything. Do I need to call ADT and pay their ridiculous fee to open this thing up again? I'd really hate to get a short term subscription for a few months only to cancel it. right now, i just don't have money like that. Is this the right sub to post this, can anyone recommend another sub of where I can get help on this. Has anyone done this before, it seems like it's possible but my electronic skills aren't that great on this device, seems more like a programming side thing. It's in pieces right now, I've taken all the boards out - wifi, antenna, searching for a reset button. if anyone can help, please do. thanks.

I was recently gifted an old oscilloscope, missing the power cable, I cant locate the exact part to buy, and Ive seen several options online from cutting the plastic down, to soldering a cable onto the pins, I have soldering experience and plenty of shrink wrap, is there anything I would need to keep in mind that Im not thinking of? Can update with pics if needed

I know this is a little lite on the hacking, but just trying to get this tach to work with a different sensor, and might be missing out on some theory as far as why what I'm trying to do might not work.

I recently purchased one of these Tachometers from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Digital-Tachometer-Proximity-Switch/dp/B00VKATA9G/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1LSZ8KE7TU2WT&keywords=led+tachometer+12vdc+7+segment+blue&qid=1675358040&sprefix=led+tachometer+12vdc+7+segment+blu%2Caps%2C125&sr=8-8

I can get it to work fine with the 3 wire (NPN) hall effect sensor and magnet that comes with it. This works fine for my purposes for now. However, I was trying to get it to work with a 3 wire NPN photoeye (sensor can handle same voltage, 12VDC circuit) and a piece of reflective tape on the rotating component (as opposed to a magnet) instead.

I have verified that the sensor is wired correctly, (power, signal, and ground are wired to same connections for Photoeye as they were with hall effect), but cannot get any RPM reading in this configuration and I think even if they are different in terms of NO vs NC should still get something on a on-off (repeating) cycle. Any reason the photoeye doesnt work in place of the hall effect? Like maybe the voltage drop across the sensor to the signal? Anything easy I can do about it? Also apologies if this isn't the right place to ask this kind of question.

Photoeye Im trying to use (datasheet pdf on page) FB6-DN-0E:

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/sensors_-z-_encoders/photoelectric_sensors/general_purpose_photoelectric_sensors/fb6-dn-0e

Hall Effect that comes with Tach (click Description Tab) CHE12-10NB-H710:

https://www.yoycart.com/Product/45635619338/

I'm looking to build a motorized appliance lift into a kitchen island. It needs to raise ~55 lbs two feet. It will be contained in a box with a track on either side to keep it straight and steady.

I've never built anything like this before. I'm looking for advice all the way across: motor power and speed; screw or scissor or something else for the mechanism; controls and switching for up and down.

Feel free to explain it like I'm five. :)

I just bought myself a 1500 $ treadmill for personal use in my basement (almost broke carrying it down!).

The mill itself is very nice and exactly what I wanted and was looking for! I have already spent hours walking on it during work meetings!

Unfortunately, it requires you to log in via a Chinese fitness app (fitshow) in order to save training data and such. This wouldn't have been an issue if the process was smooth and fast. But it is far from it as I power off the treadmill after every use.

So my thought it that I built a better app myself. As it looks like the current installation is just some android phone with a bigger screen and such.

However im afraid that i destroy the functionality of the threadmill and wont be able to control its features. Has anyone on here tried anything similar? Is there anything i have to check before i even consider it?

Any help is much appreciated.

It’s starting to be held up at borders cause of its potential. It requires customization for it to be used unethically. So what about the pi? Pi zero? Is that not the same?

I have cable TV and internet from Cox included with my rent. I have a "dumb" TV. I am curious if it is possible to use an Amazon Firestick, raspberry pi, or any other device to recognize commercial vs feature by sound (or other approach), then reduce volume by some amount. then restore volume when commercial has concluded.

Has anyone tried this? if so, successfully?