Hi y'all, I've notmally just kept them at factory settings on previous bike on goofy nonsense type tire setups but now on my 650 I've got it pretty properly setup on 80/20 road-oriented tires and Im riding year round into freezing temps but a coworker told me they run their sport bike at higher psi in the winter. All I've done is top them off to factory spec since winter weather has arrived.. should I increase them to around 30psi? What do y'all suggest?

Is there no black friday sale on procycle this year? I signed up for the mailing list but didn't seem to get any notifications about this. Wondering if i was just an idiot and messed up the mailer subscription.

These are expensive upgrades so I’m eyeing them up for Procycles Black Friday sale. I currently have aftermarket springs for my weight, proper sag set on the rear and I ride 99% asphalt. Will I really see a big difference with these upgrades?

Edit: Pulled the trigger. Doing Cogent DDCs, Cogent stock revalve shock and fork rebuild.

Hi guys, planning to change my stock handlebar. I'm doing a lot of research since I didn't know there's so many things involved into handlebars difference... I came across there's basically two major things to decide. Flatbar or Crossbar and 7/8 or 1/8 (Correct me if I'm wrong).

I dont want a Crossbar and that's the only thing I know right now.

First question is, is DR650 stock mount 7/8 or 1/8? I did a research about the difference between those, but honestly I'm more lost, some people say 7/8 is better some others the opposite.

Right , main reason I want to change it is because I feel the stock is to low not only the bar itself, the grips too. I'm 5'10, not very tall, but still, I want to replicate as much as possible the riding position from my DRZ which btw I found on internet the DRZ I sold had the: Pro Taper Evo CR High Fat.

For some reason the bar from my DRZ is quite cheap but I can see everyone recommeding Pro Taper CR High Bend and I just can't find it by that name.. found the "Countour CR High" and "SE CR High" but I just can't see any handlebar called with the name "Pro Taper CR High Bend". Anybody can tell me what's going on? I'm feeling really lost on this.

I'm really trying to learn about handlebars but holly molly, there's like thousands out there but so many details to have in consideration.

I did also see the Pro Taper Evo Adventure Handlebar but feels like the bend is to much and looks ugly as hell, not sure if I really want that on my bike.

I was always very happy with the one my DRZ400SM had, but at the same time by default is a higher bike and you felt further from the ground, something I'm missing on the DR650.

Already boughted lowering kit for footpegs and planning to buy a tall seat, but those are easy to buy with no mistake. Handlebars however seems very hard to nail it with all the knowledge you need, and not being able to try them makes veen harder.

Hey guy’s recently I got a dr650 and I mostly want to use it for trails, I want a true dirtbike tire for it and idc about it being dot approved, I just want to make this thing capable of going through hell and back 😂 , which tire should I go with and what gearing should I go with?

Haven’t ridden at night until recently and noticed my I can’t see my speedo on my 2001 when it’s dark out. My girlfriend has a 2020 dr200 and her speedo has a backlight so I was wondering if mine has a backlight and it’s out or if there never was one on the 01 650s?

Hello fellow DRs,

I’ve pulled my tank a few times, even just two weeks ago, but there is a ridiculous amount of fuel coming out, with pressure when I took the fuel line off…

Does the order of two vacuum lines and fuel line matter? I filled my tank as full as I could (winter storage) just before, would this matter?

Anything else that would cause this other than the fuel petcock failing within the last two weeks?

Thanks

Hi guys, I finally got a DR and I'm in love with it, is exactly what I expected and most important what I wanted but, as soon as I started riding I felt 3 major things that I would like to change and specially one annoys me so much.

Keep in mind I come from a DRZ, as much as I think the DR is like a DRZ on esteroids, way more comfortable and estable, I would like to have as similar a possible the riding position that I had with my DRZ but with all the benefits the DR has over the DRZ.

1. Handlebar: By far the worse thing of the bike, I need to change it ASAP, is to freaking low and the shape is horrible, but I never changed any handlebar or used bar risers I just know risers can affect the direction? I readed something like that but not sure.

I believe I need a minimum of 2 inches/5cm up if not more. Is any good handlebar recommendation and bar risers you guys can tell me? My DRZ didn't had the stock one too but I boughted already like this back then and felt perfect.

2. Clutch travel functionality: I'm used to having the entire clutch travel of my DRZ being functional and I don't know if you'll understand what I'm trying to explain, but the DR's clutch is only functional at the end of its travel, thats is, at the point furthest from the grip and I hate it, I hate it a lot.

I know it's a matter of getting used to it so that it gradually becomes easier for me, but I don't want to get used to it, it's very uncomfortable every time I'm stopped to release the clutch a little and the bike doesn't start to ride, as my DRZ did.

Is there any way to solve this?

Apart from this, I want to change the levers, both clutch and brake. I have small hands and I need smaller levers and something closer to the grips. Any recommendations?

3. As long as the bike is bigger than a DRZ, just a little more, but bigger, feels smaller cause is lower and the feeling when sitting is like "I'm to close of the ground" and I don't feel that nice sensation of being "above" that I usually felt with the DRZ. Maybe is also because my arms are lower cause the handlebar but I wonder if there's any way to lift the bike a bit. I think 1 inch should be enough.

I was thinking maybe just changing the seat to another more comfy and more "thick" to create that extra distance between the floor and me? Please give your advice on what should be the best solution.

I want to change as less as possible the behaviour of the bike on road while making these changes, but any suggestion is more than welcome.

Thanks so much in advance for your help!

Objectively, would you buy this or a new DR650?

I normally use fifth gear at 60mph+. If there’s strong wind blowing against me I stay in 4th at 60mph. Not sure if I’m doing it right or wrong but anything under 55mph and it feels like I’m lugging the engine.

Edit: I’ve got a procycle needle and 50 jet with factory exhaust if that means anything here

Hey guys, as the title states, I'm soon to be a proud owner of a 2012 model DR. it's pretty much untouched except for the addition of a frame for pannier bags.

I am looking to use the bike as a commuter in the city (Melbourne) during the week, and then on the weekends take it out on forestry/fire trails, do some motorbike camping, and general enduro kinda offroading.

What mods would you guys recommend for greater quality of life in the city, but also performance off-road?

I am already thinking to buy a knobbly tyre for weekend adventures but asides from that, I'm not sure where to start!

Just read this, I don’t think we need more justification for all the DR love but…https://www.advrider.com/why-the-dr650-still-makes-sense-for-2025/

I’ve noticed the idle will slowly climb in traffic and when engine braking or accelerating at higher rpm’s it feels strange. Like the power delivery is inconsistent and it’s kind of lurching back and forth; not a lot but enough to feel it in the handlebars. I’m thinking it’s time for a carb clean and maybe some adjusting. Only 5k miles. Thoughts?

Hey all, I have a 2013 DR with ~20,000 miles, and I've been running into some issues after recently doing carb work. Here's a bit of background: A couple of weeks ago, I cracked open the carb, cleaned and rebuilt it using a Mikuni rebuild kit from Procycle, new float assembly installed as well. While I had the carb apart, I also drilled out the fuel screw plug and adjusted the screw to 2 turns out (up from the factory ~1 turns out). After reassembling everything, the bike ran smoother than before.

Fast forward to recently, I installed a 6F19 needle with the clip in the 4th groove, added a Mikuni extended fuel screw (set at 2 turns out), and removed the snorkel. From what i've seen, This seems to be a proven setup for a decent tune, without going jet kit + cut airbox.

I took the bike for a long ride today, making sure it was for sure warmed up, and pulled over to fine-tune the idle and fuel screw. When I started adjusting the fuel screw, I noticed something odd: as I turned the screw in, the rpm actually kept rising instead of sputtering like I expected. By the time the screw was fully seated, the idle was very high. I turned the screw back out 1.5 turns, the idle settled back down.

The bike seems to be running pretty well overall, but this behavior with the fuel screw is puzzling. Also, I’m starting to smell more gas fumes while idling at lights. I'm getting some decel pop, about the same as before (I know this is expected, just throwing that info out there).

Do you think I’m running too rich? Could this be a sign that my new float assembly isn't set up correctly? Anything else I could have screwed up while rebuilding the carb? First timer doing any carb work, so this wouldn't shock me. Any advice or insights would be greatly appreciated!

I'm hoping a DR650 owner can help me out with a quick measurement. I got a used set of supermoto wheels that are supposed to go on my drz, but the rear brake rotor pattern only has 4 bolt holes. I'm guessing it may be a DR650 rotor, but it's impossible to find practical information on the internet now. Can someone verify if the rear brake rotor bolts are roughly 5 5/8" center to center?

Thanks