I have Ni-Mh battery pack 2200mAh 4.8 volts, the charger is able to provide up to 300mA of current. How do i calculate approximately it's charging time? I looked online and it's all nonsense, 8 hours 10 hours 15, 20 and whatnot based on all different sources and opinions. Help please, my head hurts.

Of these three which is best ?

Outside of amps, what are the differences? Should I just go with the cheapest?

I am looking at the following.

1. CTEK - 40-206 MXS 5.0!

2. NOCO GENIUS10!

3. XS Power HF1208!

I just had a XS Power D5100 Die on me (bad wiring, led to a unknown parasitic draw for an extended time)

so now I have to get a new battery. I already have a the XS Power HF1208, I am wondering if I should buy a new charger along with the battery.

​I am going to get an Oddyssey ODX-AGM65 (65-PC1750)

Happened first thing in the morning.

Lead acid was everywhere. The big blue batteries were the reason.

Anyone have a crazy experience happen to them at work while dealing with batteries?

I know this topic has been talked about before so it might be like beating a dead horse. I am alittle stuck between 3 diffrent Battery jump starters. The Gooloo Gt4000, the NOCO Boost X GBX155 and the CLORE jump n carry JNC345. I travel all over the country for work and driving almost 6 days a week. I wanted piece of mind having one with me since onstar usually takes so long to get to me in some places. I have a chevy 1500 v8 not sure of it makes a diffrence but i do have a AGM battery so it's not like I need anything overkill but if I have a compleatly dead battery which has happened more than id care to admit. I wanted to be able to aleast get the truck started. I'm just not sure which ones better than the other or of it's like the typical oil and oil filter conversations where everyone has their own thing. I was leaning tward clore just because at our shop we have the jnc770. Hopefully yall have some experience with these ones so I can get a better idea.

well the title but i need the cost to be less than 14k INR

I am not an expert but I am quite interested in learning more about battery recycling. I am trying to deep dive and underdtand better. Why lithium batteries are not simply dissembled by robotics in components and re use it, instead of destroying or applying heat and chemistry through a process with black mass. Should it be more efficient, right?

Do you have to connect a charger for two 12v batteries with + of one of the batteries and - of the other or is it possible to connect the +/- of the charger to one of the batteries and still charge both? I understand the best practice is to the the first of the two methods but in my head I can get away with the other option as long as the cable is the appropriate gauge between everything. In my head I can't figure out a reason why not.

I have the BQ-CC17 charger and went to charge three AA batteries. It keeps giving me that slow blinking green light, which according to the website indicates invalid battery or battery connection. I tried every possible configuration; different slots, just trying two batteries, etc. The only way I get a solid green light is if I put in only a single battery.

It's really annoying only being able to charge a single battery at a time, but I dunno what's up. Anyone else run into this?

I'm trying to replace a battery pack for an old electric drill I have.

The drill is a Black & Decker Pivot plus. It's listed as 6V.

This is what the battery pack looks like. Any ideas for a modern equivalent?

https://preview.redd.it/3sy1omgeipzd1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eb91c877406a73d27ba1a67aac95b50bd15f9569

My battery charger is a La Crosse Technology RS 720, which has given me full satisfaction for roughly ten years (it has the date April 2013 printed on it, together with "V330", which I assume is the version).

It's only meant for NiMH batteries. I have been charging 6 to 8 of them weekly (more or less) during all the time I have owned it.

Lately however, it has begun to misbehave. It sometimes stops charging too early.

I first assumed this might be caused by the batteries nearing their end of life, and indeed, one set of 4 Eneloops I use has significantly reduced capacity, despite going through the "Refresh" function of the charger (roughly 1 500 mAh, instead of the nominal 1 900 mAh).

So I have taken to often using a 700 mAh charging current, instead of the 500 mAh I had been using most of the time with AA Eneloops (which are rated for 1 900 mAh, and provided significantly more according to the charger). This seemed to overcome the early cut-off of the charging process.

However, I just bought 3 sets of 4 Ikea Ladda batteries of the 2 450 mAh variant, and when I ran them first through the charger to top them up and measure their actual capacity ("Test" cycle of the La Crosse Technology), one of the sets displayed an abnormally low level (around 1 900 mAh).

This was despite my using a 700 mAh charging current. First, I thought that the batteries were defective and needed to be returned. However, I partially discharged the seemingly faulty set, then ran it through a second "Test" cycle. This time, the measured capacity was normal, on par with the other sets.

At some point in the past, the charger suffered a shock, when I stumbled into its cord and I sent it flying through the room. However, this did not affect the charging level detection at the time. I only broke two of the channel selection buttons, but otherwise it went on operating normally for years.

What do you think ? Are the batteries at fault, or the charger ? Do such appliances have components with a limited life, such as condensers or others ?

I am collecting batteries from disposable Vapes to use them to power things at a later date (not sure what yet I've just started)

They have wires coming off them and I don't own a soldering iron to take them off of the ends of the batteries like I've seen in some videos online of people doing the same thing as me, I've just been cutting the wires so that I can remove the battery from the rest of the vape

Are they likely to explode if I leave them near each other or if the wires touch? Do I need to take the wires off?

Sorry if I sound absolutely insane I am very paranoid and I don't want to burn my house down if I do something wrong

Edit: I know basically nothing about batteries, sorry if I struggle to understand some of the concepts or anything

Anyone who can recommend good battery replacement for iPhone 12 pro max?

So I had a powerbank that is rechargable, but it dies instantly when unplugged from its cable. And I cannot even charge with it. The prove is that the usual blue lights do not light up when I was charging my cables. Are there problems with that?

(Well, I dropped in several times on accident, and there were a few scratches on the exterior, but I have no idea about the interior.)

I have one of these chargers. It's around 15 years old, but the model is 20. Supposedly it's controlled by a microchip. It still works and works with NiMH cells.

Newer chargers are faster, but this one is paid for. Is there any other benefit to getting a new one?

https://web.archive.org/web/20150824055043/https://www.efi.org/specs/rayovac_ps3.pdf

i'm currently working on a small esp8266-powered project that won't draw too much power, but i want it to last off of battery for 6-7 hours on a single charge. i've got some spare 3.7v 1200mah batteries from a previous project, and i'd like to use those to power this. i'm planning to use a tp4056 charge control module as i have some of those spare too, but idk if those would work.

i've been searching for a suitable BMS for around 45 minutes now, and haven't been able to find one that i think would work. i found this sub and hoped that some of the experienced people here would be willing to assist.

TLDR: is there any good way to connect 4 3.7v 1200mah lipo batteries in parallel to create a larger capacity battery while including a proper BMS to keep them from overheating?

Anyone have experience with...
APC XS1300
APC NS1080
APC (Smart-UPS 1000/older model without a screen)
CyberPower 1500
and a Belkin 550VA :-) I guess I like older tech...KISS

I use these, and the first 2 APC models batteries are dead.
The others are soon on their way to die.
I am wondering what BMS charge kick in I would want for these. Would each be different?

I am considering a 24V so I dont have to link them (I forget, since I have not worked with power for some time...in series? or is it parallel?) So if my original unit was designed for

I read a few reviews on AMazon for:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQRBM5BG/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?s=electronics&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM

https://www.amazon.com/LiFePO4-Rechargeable-Maintenance-Free-Lighting-Scooters/dp/B09HQ927H6/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

https://www.amazon.com/Casil-Lithium-Battery-Back-ups-bk500blk/dp/B0BHBD4YY4

The last one even claims the UPS model XS1300 compatible.
What BMS or voltage do I need to look for to get most time up, and most cycle life?

Many of the reviews are negative, not holding a charge, or dead after 6 months....etc.
Even the SLA batteries do not live up to the claims, but thought I would see if anyone has DATA I can look for with each of these units, as they might differ in how they charge, or read a discharge.

Thank you!

XS 1300

NS 1080

Smart UPS 1000

CyberPower 1500VA

https://preview.redd.it/zvl8073zolzd1.png?width=597&format=png&auto=webp&s=dd446d7856a3e9ce092819c3577753539f7090fc

Belkin 550VA

Belkin 550VA

Looking to buy a set of two of these Liter 3540116 batteries, ideally just without the $60 shipping, or 2+ months delivery with cheaper shipping. Wondering if anyone here might know a US based retailer (or even just someone shipping to conus with more reasonable rates/timeframes) for these slightly more niche batteries.

Not sure if this is the perfect subreddit for this Q, but happy to be pointed in a better direction, thanks!