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Hi all. I am trying to make an led UV enlarger.
I had it all set up, all soldered together, did two 20 minute exposures just fine, determined the heatsink was getting too hot. I then replaced the heatsink with a bigger one. This time I turned on the led with the new heatsink, it turned on but immediately flickered and then turned off. Sometimes one column lights up super dim, but overwhelmingly the led won't turn on. I only know as much about this as youtubers trying to do this same project have explained to me. I only have one of each of these things, so I can't switch out pieces to troubleshoot each piece individually.

I can't tell whether it's the cob, the driver, or something else that is causing the problem. I was hoping for some ideas for troubleshooting and/or if it is obvious to anyone what part has stopped working. TIA!

These are the parts I have:
100w uv cob.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBZIK84

driver
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NBXZUS3

too weak heatsink
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1LD68C

new heatsink
https://www.microcenter.com/product/640534/be-quiet-pure-rock-slim-2-cpu-cooler

Hello everyone, I was looking to build myself a RGB LED matrix (16x16) and wanted to use the WS2812b LEDs for it. Assuming each LED may use upto 50mA @ 5V, so a total of 12.8A current would be drawn by the matrix, almost 65w of power.

While searching for some prebuilt options I came across this 64x32 matrix by Adafruit which seemingly only draws 4A @ 5V. Can anyone tell me the LEDs used inside this matrix which uses considerably so less power?

Thank you.

https://www.adafruit.com/product/2279

(Pictured is an extension strip, I didn't save the packaging from the original kit)

I have this color chasing led strip installed with the included power supply and controller and they are working fine. I would like to upgrade the controller to something wifi or Bluetooth enabled that offers more functions that are more easily accessible than the generic little remote they came with.

If I'm understanding correctly, there are 4 tabs on the strip but only 3 are used. 24+, gnd and DO which is the data pin... I tried searching but I'm not sure I'm finding the correct controllers for my application.

Any guidance in the right direction is appreciated.

I’ve been making these light flowers using string lights that I’ve pulled from this outdoor curtain light. I will cut the strings and wind them around the wire, then connect them all together and power them with USB. I found them by accident but they’ve worked out great because if I reverse the polarity they change from color to warm white

ZAIYW Curtain Lights 600 LED 20Ftx10Ft, Dual Color Changing Curtain Fairy Light

I got a different version that was warm white only and was hoping would work better for what I’m doing because the LED spacing is closer. The problem with this particular version is that when I wire them with USB power (regular 5v 1amp) every other LED will light up. If I reverse the polarity the others will light up but I only ever get half the LEDs lit. The version I’m trying to use now is this one

ZAIYW 1200 LED Curtain Lights 10x10Ft

Is it possible to power these using USB in a way that will get every single LED lit?

i have bought a dual white LED strip at 24V and 19W per meter. and i wanted to use a gledopto GL-C-006P dimmer and connected it through various PSU's (1) (2), but i get a high pitched whine when i dim or have mixed color temperature.

now from what i understand it's because of the PWM frequency of the controller and the PSU not switching fast enough, and i did not expect this to happen since i have a similar length 12V single color LED strip on a 20W dehner PSU and didn't have any of those problems. so the real question is is there a PSU that actually works well with this controller or do i need another controller and which one?

Overwhelmed with the options on the market and probably overthinking it. Have a set of winder stairs (do a 180 turn) that is incredibly dark. No overhead light. We are getting ready to re do the stairs so perfect time to fix the darkness. The wife wants a simple solution that is controlled by a light switch or wall panel. We will be selling this house in the next 5 years. The home automation stuff is great but would be difficult to transition to new owners. Basically it needs to act as much like a plug and play as possible , knowing a strip will occasionally go bad.

I like the look of this remote/ switch https://www.btf-lighting.com/products/touch-rf-2-4g-remote-control-works-with-wb5-lm052-lm053-mi-boxer-wl5-dim-rgbw-rgbcct-controller-powered-by-2pcs-aaa-batteries-3v?variant=45934443135202 but having troubles finding out a few things.

1. Is there a controller that would accept two remotes (bottom of stairs and top)

2. which controller is simple enough to do this?

Thanks so much

As my title says, I’m looking for a replacement of the HT-2014 flashing LED IC. The HT is discontinued, and I’m having a hard time finding a proper replacement. Attempted to post elsewhere and was redirected here. The included image is the original setup that I want to follow, this is intended for flashing navigation lights on an RC plane. Thank you for any help or input.

So, this was a fuesuit I had gotten a while back, and while I was brushing him, part of his mask came off and these little pins were removed. Now his face won't turn on/if I do put them in, the whole thing just lights up... I figure they need to go in a specific order to make his original programmed face appear again, but I don't know which one! I don't know much about LED's, so anything would help. Does his programming get reset if those pins are removed?? I really hope not, but it they do, is there a way for me to fix that? Please help!!! There is one purple wire, one blue, one black, and two white. There are also little abbreviations on the (board?) Labeled Ucc, And, Din, Cs, and Clk. I'm not sure what products it's using, but I believe it's these; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088LWLHP5?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_D7Z2EB9NSWAQ1CWB6814&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_D7Z2EB9NSWAQ1CWB6814&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_D7Z2EB9NSWAQ1CWB6814&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1&titleSource=avft-a&newOGT=1

I’m trying to find the little vibration activated LED balls. It’s just those plain/clear little light battery balls. Usually they are used in toys that you shake/hit and then they light up and turn off after a second. I want to use them inside of some Kandi crafts I’m making(beads). I have only found one site that sells them in bulk but I don’t need that many. Anybody have a clue on where I could buy some?

These are the ones I found but I do not need 500 which is the minimum…

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/LED-Vibration-Flashing-Colorful-Ball-Red_1600831694419.html?spm=a2706.7843667.0.0.1fd33dccUelXeq

Greetings guys,

I did a full LED conversion of my car over a year ago (Alfa Romeo MiTo) and until recently the lights have worked perfectly without issues. However, recently i noticed that my DRL lights are flickering when the short beam (lights) are turned on. If i turn off the short beam lights, both DRL and short lights stop working and after a second brighter DRL lights turn on.

I made a short video showing the issue, i would like to add that the guy who installed the DRL also installed load capacitors and an additional contraption which i ain't sure what is in order to make sure that Canbus doesn't throw error codes on the dashboard.

Any help is appreciated!

Cheers

https://reddit.com/link/1idvea3/video/rvygsh1jo6ge1/player

i first bought a constant current mean well PSU but that one was even worse. i don't have this problem with my 12V PSU, and this problem also doesn't occur when i set the color of the LED strip to either fully warm or cold. this is the current PSU i have, and this is the dimmer i use

Hey, newbie here. Doing my research for a first very simple project of a led strip in my home windows.

I've decided I'm going with a 24v FCOB CCT strip from BTF with a C02W controler (Google Home).

My doubt is about the different power supplies. About watts or amperage I already did the math for all the instalations I need (2x 50w and 1x 80w considering a 30% theoretical safety margin), but the model itself I don't get the difference.

Can anyone explain the difference between all available types of power supplies (focusing on BTF since I'm using probably all materials from them):

https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/24v-power-supply/products/ac110v-220v-to-dc24v-switch-power-supply-voltage-converter-for-cctv-fcob-led-strip-transformers-adapter-1-2-3-5-10-15-20a
These type I'm familiar with from a commercial project.

https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/24v-power-supply/products/ultra-thin-led-light-power-supply-ac190v-240v-driver-fcob-ws2815-led-strip-dc12v-24v-transformer-adapter

https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/24v-power-supply/products/ac-100v-240v-to-dc-12v-24v-driver-transformer-power-supply-for-led-strip-lights-constant-voltage-led-projects-dimmable?variant=45648022896866
This 48w model is very interesting for 2 of the instalations because of the size but I'm not sure it will work.

https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/24v-power-supply/products/triac-led-driver-constant-voltage-dimmer-ac200v-ac240v-to-dc24v-40w-75w-transformer-adapter?variant=44989229727970
This 75w 24v seems also interesting because of the size.

What should I use? What are the differences?

Thank you in advance.

So where is the receiver for LEDs strips? I can't understand where to aim with the remote. Any help would be very useful

If I solder some 14 gauge AWG to this strip light, can I just wire nut it to romex coming out of a light box? https://www.amazon.com/Enersystec-Dimmable-Waterproof-Converter-Lighting/dp/B07PMJYWHS

Hi folks.

i noticed my power supply when running at full brightness makes a faint "buzzing" "humming" sound when running lights at full brightness. If i turn the brightness down then the sound decreases. Is this an issue?

I'm buying parts for 5v RGBW kitchen accent lights. I plan on doing undercabinet and above cabinet lights, but I'm stumped on what channel shape I should get. It appears that straight U channels and angled V channels are most popular. What do people generally prefer for kitchen accent lighting? Should it be different above and below the cabinet?

Here's a U channel I'm considering: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FRFQVZ?ref=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_SZ6G27ECW73GEGFP99ZH_1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_SZ6G27ECW73GEGFP99ZH_1&social_share=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_SZ6G27ECW73GEGFP99ZH_1&starsLeft=1&skipTwisterOG=1&titleSource=avft-a&newOGT=1

LED replacement?

In Croatia, a "feral" or high-beam light is used for catching fish in shallow water with a long spear. Currently, I am using a gas light, like in picture. I want to modernize an old "feral" to use 12V LEDs. I want to use two COB LEDs, one 50W and one 100W. I would use a switch to select 50W, 100W, or 150W of LED light. Does anyone know where I can find affordable 50W and 100W 12V LEDs?