I didn’t realize these didn’t come with a power supply. I wanted to see what I would need in order to rectify that before just returning them.

Hi guys

I'm looking to create a lighting solution for my work centre / hutch on my toolbox - I've never done anything like this before so all the different options are confusing as I was hoping to find a kit that would just work !

The light length will need to be about 1.8m long and provide a white light. I have mains power there so will need a driver etc too 🙈

I'm planning on mounting the strip light with double sided tape on the top of the work centre so won't need a diffuser as it won't be shining directly at my eyes.

Can anyone recommend a spec of the parts I may need or a supplier to get them from in the UK ?

Many thanks

It’s stopped working. I can’t find it online just others that won’t work for the lights. Also don’t remember where the lights were from, no information on wires.

Or is it just a marketing gimmick?

I saw that on this page

https://truslermedical.com/medx-home-therapy

Hi there, I bought this neon sign for outside but thought about it and want to make sure I can. Link below. It doesn't come with a cube but I purchased regular multipack for other things online. I looked everywhere in the description and can't find any specific information on the use and if it's just indoors or can be used outdoors too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CQFVS8RC?ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_mwn_dp_XATNM6EV24AC1PFK0X5Y&starsLeft=1

I had someone with knowledge in wiring up LEDs scheduled to help with this, but he unfortunately flaked on me. The lights are Hanley Peregrine Series RGB-2072, and the controller is Principal Sloan (the Hanley was not waterproof and this is for an outdoor sign). There are 5 wires on the controller and 4 on the lights. The black wire on the controller is V+, and it says the yellow is B-. I’m just unsure what to do the V+. Anyone experienced with this who could possibly lend some guidance?

So I bought a 15w cob panel that I’d like to run off a lithium leisure battery that normally has a voltage of 13ish. Do I need to use a resistor? How do I calculate what size? All the leds I’ve used in the past have had them built in already. When I wired it up to do a demo it got very hot and was extremely bright. If this works well I’d be curious to try the 70w led panels I’ve seen.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126329678550?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iyc3lxhctbi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=bzLYciv1SsC&var=427368261973&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I'm looking for a v-channel system that has outward facing / quoin connectors as well as the inside corner connectors.

Basically the opposite of this photo.

Hi guys, l'm tryna get rid of my blueghozt v2 controller as I no longer continuing my custom headlight project. If anyone wants it or about to start a custom headlight project, pm me an offer. It's already potted and wired up. It includes a battery saver from next level neo. I also have led strips.

Mods delete if not allowed

I gave wired up some leds to shelving units using Wled on an esp32 using 3 data pins as a controller. I used resistors on the data lines as the lights were flickering. Resistors solved the problem. I currently have the resistors secured with waygo clip but it looks so untidy as well as needing 2 clips on each data line. If I solder the resistors inline can I cover them with shrink tube or will this cause them to heat up? Also can I trim the wire coming off the resistors?

I have some SK6812 and want to setup one run through all three of my detolfs the red lines being the LEDs and the green representing wire. I have some 20 AWG wire will that work for this or will a single run with that many spacers work? I am using a 5V 60A 300W Power Supply. I am also using a Dig-Uno for the controller.

https://preview.redd.it/skeuw4fe5yxc1.jpg?width=704&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d2750cfc24f3abe5ba3aec58050d9b822f306112

Hello! I’ve bought small led strips from amazon twice and they did not work both times.

Anyone know of a reliable manufacturer?

Thank you.

I am running LEDs into the front and back of an outdoor tiki. I need to span about 20 ft but my 4 pin wires are 12 a piece. Is there a way to connect the two four pin wires. I can only find the wire to led strip connector. Do they make a clip where you can slide the wires into the connector on both sides. I really don't want to but more wire or use a piece of LED strip as a jump. I also tried stripping some wire but they are simply too thin to twist together.

Hoping to get some advice on power. I have been reading up on this tech all winter and excited to get rolling with my own setup, but my knowledge of power is limited. I have a DigQuad controller and measured out my runs. I plan doing the roof line to start this year, and possibly expand the project by adding more around windows/doors next season.

To start...

ROOFLINE: 157 feet, 4inches = 1,888 inches (630 pixels @ 3" spacing on centre)

Future Expansion...

WINDOWS/DOOR: ~183 feet = 2,196 inches (732 pixels @ 3" spacing on centre)

The specific pixel strings I plan on using are these ones, suggested by QuinLED:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003623381496.html?aff_fcid=dd14fb8c77a04dfb834a2e490944e092-1714490196873-03834-_De5hdnh&tt=CPS_NORMAL&aff_fsk=_De5hdnh&aff_platform=portals-tool&sk=_De5hdnh&aff_trace_key=dd14fb8c77a04dfb834a2e490944e092-1714490196873-03834-_De5hdnh&terminal_id=76eeea3e68e64f789944265f4357ab44&afSmartRedirect=y

1. What power supply should I go with? QuinLED's site advises a 350w/29Amps power supply for up to 1000 pixels, which is fine for phase 1 (630 pixels for the roofline), but what if I want to add my 732 pixels for windows/doors later which would bring me to a total of 1,362 pixels? Is there any benefit to going with a 600w/50Amp power supply, or is that a bad idea?

2. I realize I will need to inject power every ~200 pixels. Is 18AWG suitable for this? Also, will I require any power injection blocks to go with those injections?

3. The roofline is basically one big rectangle. I plan on running all wiring within the same channeling (either J-trim or custom aluminum flashing (I know a guy). Is there any issue with the length of runs for power injection?

I'm a bit worried about all those wires getting crowded in the channeling and not having enough room in there, especially if I need injection blocks in there too.

Thanks in advance, everyone!

Hi, I've been having trouble acquiring IP68 LED strips, I need 10 meters addressable LED strips (WS2812B/WS2815). It's hard to find vendors for those!

Best I found was to make a custom order on https://www.btf-lighting.com/ , however it appears they have a 25 meter minimum order quantity and that's way too much.

I'm on a bit of a time crunch, my second best option is to buy IP67 strips, and inject silicone into them myself .

Question is: what silicone sealant to use?

This one looks good, but it does not ship to Canada. Basically, it just needs to dry clear and not damage the electronics. It's for an art project, any help is greatly appreciated!

Hi,

I'm the Tech Savvy guy but has no knowledge about the LED (types, assembling, drivers and etc) .

Can you point me to the best source to learn about it ?

Any help appreciated

I would like to have some sort of background screen since the TV is not wall mounted, it's a little far to reflect the LEDs and also the window right above the TV interferes. Ideally, I'd like a motorized ceiling mount. Problem is, to go from ceiling to top of TV stand, the height needs to be at least 75". Width, minimum ~46". I can't just hang the ceiling mount lower with chains/hooks/etc because there are pictures that would be blocked. I'm open to any suggestions! I did look at floor rising screens and they are way too expensive. I obviously do not need fancy HD picture quality, it's just to enhance the LED strips.

I need to drive some 24V LED strips (these 2-channel CCT-tunable ones, and these 5-channel RGBWW ones).

For the PWM dimming, I was hoping to go with a Shelly RGBW2 (4-channel), or a H801 (5-channel), or possibly the Quinled Penta when that is released.

I need to get some Meanwell DIN-mountable 24V power supplies - and I"m a bit confused by all the options... (link to PDF DIN range overview)

I've narrowed it down to the 24V 10A options (since the Shelly RGBW2 goes up to 10A)

• Meanwell NDR-240-24 spec sheet
• Meanwell SDR-240-24 spec sheet

The NDR is quite a bit cheaper than the SDR. ($90 vs $145)

However, the NDR has lower efficiency (88.5%) versus the SDR (94% - it says after 30 minutes burn in - not sure if that's each time you turn it on?)

Also, the NDR has higher r&n (ripple and noise) at 150mV p-to-p (peak to peak - which is all I remember from EE...lol). versus 50mV p-to-p for the SDR.

My question is - how important are the efficiency and R&N for this use case?

And is my choice of PWM dimmers acceptable?

So my son is in the final stages of his 5th grade science project (comparing the voltage outputs of various fruits/veggies - a variation of the potato battery) and I was thinking of taking the display portion to the next level by having a rotary switch hooked up to an LED that anyone can switch to see how the different 'batteries' affect the light intensity. Trying to make it hands on and visible which is the strongest battery.

​

So I have a couple different LEDs laying around from various projects that I'd like to use (nice low 5v, 3 pin variety), but the issue is they're all individually addressable, and I really don't want to try to try to hide a real battery to run a controller of any sort.

​

So my question is, is there any way to get an addressable LED to light up without a controller?

For a case lighting project (3D printer enclosure) I need to bend a 8mm COB led strip with a 90 degree angle. How to do that best?

And where: At the soldering locations where I can cut the strip or somewhere in-between?