Basicaly the title... I bought this panel and the driver does not work anymore. I looking for a replacement, but do not understand very well the output specs. The panel is advertised as a 45 W and 4500 lm. It works with input voltage from 120 V to 240 V at 60 Hz. Not sure if the miliamps written in the label are input or output, besides it does not say an output voltage. Could you, please, help me to find a driver that will work? Thanks for reading.

(The technical specs are only in Spanish) https://www.truper.com/ficha_tecnica/Luminarios-colgantes-de-LED-ultra-delgados.html?code=48550

I have a cheap LED strip that I bought for $10 dollars. It works basically exactly as I wanted it to. The only thing is it is way too bright, since I am only using it as accent lighting. The LED is turned on from a motion detector and is set to stay on for ~40 seconds.

I was thinking of just applying a strip of masking tape right over it. In normal situations, this probably wouldn't be the best, since it would cause heat to build up around the LED. However, I figure with it only being on 40 seconds at a time, it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

My last resort would be to somehow wire in a dimmer (not even sure if the LED strip is even dimmable), but I would prefer to not do this, just because this is basic project was supposed to just stay simple/cheap.

Should I just buy some good generic strips and make my own WLED controller? I want to use Philips hue but it looks like I cannot do animations on them. I want it to be able to run a beam of light around the house or bounce it all that kind of stuff. Hue strips are expensive but I don’t mind I’d rather have all hue. But this will be the longest run so I can go with something else if it’s better

I have a WT-SPI led controller with Tuya and a WS2812b led strip.

If the led strip is not connected to the module I can connect it to the Tuya app without any problem

If the led strip is connected I can't find the module to connect

If I first connect the module to the app and then connect the led strip it starts to blink so I think in connection mode but with the app I can't find anything to connect…

https://preview.redd.it/9lpj3y5mom0e1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d92d403abe4826aca0186bb854e6a4c15c47e95c

https://reddit.com/link/1gq86hx/video/cqbrz8uuom0e1/player

Hi all,

I’ve got a very simple question, but which with hours of searching and frustration sadly I couldn’t find.

I’ve got a living room with a spot for just a single B22 bulb, so it’s got to light up the whole room. The current 800 lumen bulb isn’t quite bright enough, so looking for 1200-2000 lumens (~100W equivalent), but it’s also a ‘centerpiece’ in the middle of the room, so I wanted it to look a little nice, like those ‘vintage edison’ bulbs or perhaps a spiral bulb, but all those are max 700 lumens.

The closest I could find is the “Philips LED Classic A60 Light Bulb [B22 Bayonet Cap] 10.5W - 100W Equivalent” bulb which is perfect specification-wise, but I want it to be a bit more decorative or 'fancy' looking?

Anyone else had this struggle or got any suggestions? (In or deliverable to UK)

to give background i’ve been sitting here for two hours trying to make it go into pair mode there’s a little button on the wire to the led strip you have to hold for five seconds and no mater how many times i hold for 5 seconds it won’t go into paring mode

I'm working on a project where I'm fitting A LED strip in a 40x40mm T slot aluminum extrusion.

https://preview.redd.it/w8lml9apci0e1.jpg?width=742&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a999942864fe99b6eb0dd1d61b6e72a90a682ba8

At the end, but still inside, of the T slot I'd like to have the controller with tactile buttons.

The smallest controller I can find is "Mini PWM Dimmer" It's about 12.2mm wide.

https://preview.redd.it/zxlje27xbi0e1.jpg?width=800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=80a098b3829a2934409e1d92f6be9ed1660daf4b

I'm looking to keep the controller inside the T slot.

This dimmer fits easily inside the T slot, it's however ugly and has a "Mode" button that I don't. I only want it to be able to control the brightness.

I'm thinking I can glue this controller in the T slot and then buy some nicer buttons that can pretty much just physically push these buttons on the inside. Then I can essentially ignore the "mode" button.

I would much rather have a single rotary to turn on the light and increase the brightness, but I haven't found any rotary controller that seems to fit inside the T slot.

I wanted to post this here in case some has an idea for a better execution of this project or even if there is a better controller than these cheap ugly ones.

Thanks!

Hi Reddit!

I am building a cabinet/shelving media center with a TV mounted in the middle. I want it to be accented nicely so it’s time to get the LED out. I’ve done quit a bit of reading on this sub and some web resources. I do feel I’ve got a dedent understanding but I want to be sure the parts I’m buying are all compatible. Do you mind double checking this will work? I’m going to provide the links with small bits of info on each piece.

Goal:

Three runs going in different directions from one power source (hidden by trim). 10’ of led tape behind the TV with 4’ of wire needed to get to it. Then two equal runs of 7’ LED tape supported by 7’ of wire to run between the strips. So that’s 24’ of LED tape and 18’ of wire connecting them.

Parts:

• Power Supply (24v, 5a, 120w max)

• Touch Dimmer Control (24v, 5a)

• 1 to 3 f2m splitter cable (didn’t see any power specs, but does feel like I’m daisy chaining a little now)

• Power adapters (female to wire). 12v though. Cant find 24v.

• 18 Gauge, 2 pin wire

• 2 pin solderless strip connectors (wire to tape)

• FCOB LED Strip. 2700K warm white only. 24v, 8w/m. 336 LED/m, 90CRI. Maybe I need 12v if I had 12v adapters before?

• Channel Diffusers

I'm hoping you all are able to assist. Mom has a flush mounted ceiling light in kitchen that 2 of the strips of LEDs have failed. I'm capable enough to replace these and solder the connectors but am having difficulty identifying replacements. There are two sets of lights in the lamp, and album is here: https://imgur.com/a/mqIJI9Z

I'll paste the info I was able to pull from the driver and LEDs in case it helps:

Type 1 - (two strips, 18 LEDs each, spacing is approx every 1.25") Various numbers from strip:

* 94V-0 E309772 HY-2 1916 11900788 VER:A1 LDM-18-22-F4-S 2P9S 2017-10-11

Type 2 - (one strip, 38 LEDS, spacing is approx every 0.75") Various numbers from strip:

* 94V-0 E309772 HY-2 1916 11900789 VER:A1 LDM-36-27-F4-S 4P9S 2017-10-11

Finally the driver is Keystone (North Wales, PA) KTLD-36-1-1100-FDIIM-AF6 /C. Class 2 LED Driver Constant Driver E338319

Think the driver is okay, just the center and one of the two side strips are bad. Thanks for your help!

Edit to add this is one of three identical lights flush mounted in her kitchen which is approximately 10’ x 10’. Thanks.

I have just installed my SK6812 LED strip by BTF lighting along with a Candeo WLED driver.

However whenever my lights are turned off or the controller is not sending any programs, there is one LED on my 5 metre strip that just glows green.

How do I fix this and what is the potential reason for this to happen?

These are the LEDs I’m using:

https://amzn.eu/d/7fi9EpE

This is the WLED CONTROLLER:

WLED Smart LED Strip Controller... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0D4Z1S3DK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Power supply:

inShareplus 12V 5A 60W, DC... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QRYTDTT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Connector cables for led strip to driver:

Taikuwu 10Pair 3 pin JST SM Male... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B095MR6P24?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hi folks,

Trying to get some LED strips working using an induction circuit.

The induction circuit is 5v/2amp. It comes with micro-LEDs that have ‘54w’ in their product code (regardless of colour) but other than that, no information. I’m assuming this might be some reference to wattage? The induction circuit is https://www.amahalo.com/product-page/ca-102-inductive-display-base

The supplied LEDs are https://www.amahalo.com/product-page/lm-54-inductive-led-module

I’m trying to get these 3V LED strips to work on the same induction coils (cut off the LED and solder on the strip)

https://www.zoomonmodel.com/product-page/zt066-led-underglow-strip-light

Again, I have nearly zero information on the LED strips other than they are 3v. I’ve got some .25w/100ohm resistors which should step the coil down from 5v to 3v but the LED strip still doesn’t illuminate. All I can put it down to is the coil doesn’t draw enough amps to light the LED Strip.

Any help on how I can get these two to play nicely would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance

I want to add 3 strips of LED to my home. 1 under the roof lip facing down on my house. Another over the garage doing the same. And a last one where I have an overhang on my first floor over my second floor. I want individual controls for each strip so I can do holiday themes and I never want to take them down as they’ll be hidden anyway. I would wire them into my garage and plug them into a standard outlet. Problem is that I know less than jack shit about this and really don’t want to learn a whole lot. Are there any kits or companies that can sell me exactly what I need if I get measurements?

I have seen those LED kits for staircases where a movement sensor at the top and bottom of the staircase triggers a "wave" of lights (up or down). That's what I don't want :)

I'm looking for a version where each light (each step) has its own movement sensor. Is there such a kit to buy, or just DIY?

Pretty new to this, so apologies if this is a stupid one. For my first project I'm putting up some strips on the underside of my basement bar and plan to control them with WLED. I bought 5m (300 LEDs) of 12V WS2814 from BTF. I have a 12V 5A power supply (Alitove) that will power both the LEDs and an ESP32 using a buck convertor. I'll only need close to 3m of those lights (~180 LEDs) for the bar. I have 18 AWG wire that I'm going to run from the power supply about 2ft to the start of the strip. I have a 45 degree turn in the bar so I need to cut and re-connect the two pieces within the track. I've tried to do this with the 18 AWG wire and it's just not going to happen, it's not flexible enough. I think I can make it work using the wire from the original leads that came with the WS2814s but I've read in a couple places online that it's recommended to replace that with 18 AWG as it's thicker. Would there be any issue using a couple inches of the higher gauge wire to connect the two strips or should I keep fighting with the 18 AWG?

We use a Loxone smart home system, so our dimmable circuits are 24v. We currently use minalox 24v 8w bulbs, these are around 700lm in the specs. We have tall ceilings however and they seem not bright enough… Do stronger ones exist? I cannot seem to find them.

Edit: link to led driver here

I have a liquor cabinet with 10 40-inch shelves. I'm using a Maxonar Lightstrip Pro (now apparently discontinued). Frustratingly, one of the shelves has gone out of sync, always displaying a somewhat different shade from the other shelves. I'm not sure there is any fixing this. I've isolated the wiring aspect -- I've tried running a line directly from the control unit to this shelf and it still displays the same color. I located what I thought was a supplier in China still carrying Maxonar and they just sent me a no-name LED that displays an even more different color when connected to power.

First, any suggestions for an actual fix? I figure this is a long shot; I think this shelf's run of lights has just gone bad?

Second, any suggestions for replacement system here? I like being able to change colors. As the above measurements suggest, I need 10 40-inch runs, separated by 8-12 inches of no color (i.e., the wiring running between shelves). I'm willing to spend more money this time in the hopes that I don't have to redesign this system again a year from now.

https://preview.redd.it/um9mfldv270e1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=509793cce63a37ff6294b1da44643d908f42b76d

Looking at this diagram, you can see how blue overlaps with yellow to make white,

https://www.teachengineering.org/content/spfun_/maker_challenges/spfun_rgbcolor_maker1_image1.png

and you can also see how green overlaps with pink to make white

The typical way white light is created with LEDs, is by using a blue LED and a yellow phosphor. But if you look at the rgb overlap colorwheel, you can see that white light can be created also by using a green LED and a pink phosphor.

Has anyone ever heard of this method? AI tells me it would be inefficient, but I was just interested in it because I would prefer green peaking out of my "white" lights instead of blue. (or just less blue in the 2 part recipe for white is what im trying to say)

Update: I found this, looks like GE has been experimenting with green phosphors + KSF * lately, to make an LED package, check out the blue light elimination at 32 minutes. They are using a blue LED for reliability he states, I only wonder what that KSF + a green LED would produce.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3i1AI8e6Q8