power supply model : ATDY100ML

Power supply voltage : AC220V

led model : SMD5050

led voltage : 24v 12v

it was working all good for few years , now after my nephew spammed the controller buttons for few mins it inversed the red and green , tried the (red , off , smooth , on) it doesnt work , it doesnt flash at all , so it may be another combination image of the controller and every is attached

https://preview.redd.it/dn52hmcql18e1.png?width=808&format=png&auto=webp&s=eae5cbf5da0caa4579e521de6d28dcbe02737439

https://preview.redd.it/l7qf0hdql18e1.jpg?width=2048&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6edca6663502a1d0575cab66ca55cf5c12417ee6

https://preview.redd.it/tjnywgdql18e1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b162a6f0dc02472b8056b9bcb5d8e694c22d2ec2

https://preview.redd.it/siunrgdql18e1.jpg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=053dcca00b5709163897ded6add7017694ebf384

I bought a strip of 12V BTF-Lighting FCOB lights, and they came prewired with a male barrel connector on one end and a female barrel connector on the other end. These can be directly plugged into a 12V power supply with a barrel connector.

From the specs, it seems that daisy chaining wouldn't give you good results due to the voltage drop, so why do they include both male and female connectors?

https://www.btf-lighting.com/collections/fcob-led-strip/products/fcob-led-strip-light-black-pcb-5m-336-480-528-cob-fob-light-high-density-ra90-cool-nature-warm-white-yellow-dimmable-ip30-ip66?variant=46046691885282

Looking to purchase this strip: "FCOB COB LED Strip UL Listed 480LEDs/m 9W/m 16.4FT (3 meters) DC12V Natural White 4000K CRI 90+ 8mm Width Dimmable LED Ribbon".

As I read online to understand the power supply needed, most sources looking at this description would say "9W/m x 5m = 45W / 80% = 56.25, or, 60W power supply needed.

Yet, further in the description of the product the manufacturer says "The actual power of 16.4FT FCOB COB LED Strip will be affected by the voltage drop. For example, the power of DC12V 16.4FT 480LEDs /m is 18W, not 9W/m x 5m= 45W .The calculation method of 45W is wrong, and the voltage drop should be considered."

Can someone help me understand this last statement, because it seems to go against everything else I'm reading. Thanks!

Moved into this house about 4 years ago, and now the kitchen led lights are starting to fail. Can't seem to find this model online and wondered if the led light comes away from the body? Any knowledge would be helpful 👍

I'm doing some research on building a rgbw video/stage light (something like an amaran 150c).

I'm having trouble finding a suitably high power array that is rgbw (lots of white arrays).

The bridgelux BXRV-D54-TRI6000-099-A3 (50w vesta array) looks acceptable (though higher power would be better), but I can't find it in stock anywhere.

It looks like luminus devices used to make some chips that would work, but no longer.

Can someone recommend another single chip, rgbw array that is at least 50w, reputable manufacturer, is in stock, and has decent (>=70) CRI?

Thank you

Help setting up tv led synch lights.

So my wife bought me 2 boxes of vivitar led synch lights off clearance at Walmart. We have a larger tv and 1 8’ strand wouldn’t work. When I go to connect the 2nd strand using any of their provided connectors only 4 more leds light up.

Ive tried different sections of lights connected at this spot and still only get 4 of the lights to light up.

I’ve tried unplugging and draining power but still didn’t work.

Any ideas? Is the vivitar set just not strong enough to handle more than an 8’ section of lights?

Recently bought this led strip/kit to make a sign. I’ve made one before with a non addressable LED strip. My question is, can I cut this strip? And if so where? There are no markings on it.

I’m looking for a replacement rgb led strip. I’m at the point where I need to figure out the original rgb led strip W/m. If the controller I use only outputs 4 possible colours (blue,orange,green, red), how should I proceed to figure this parameter out?

The easiest I can do is measure current deaw when the strip is in blue, but how would I figure out the power of the rest from there. I can’t turn on all colours at the same time with my system.

Thanks!

Hi all -

I recently purchased an LED light fixture (LED chandelier) that just doesn't work out of the box. Unfortunately, I am unable to get warranty support and the store won't allow returns as I am out of the window.

We believe we have a faulty GMIMA LED Driver - model JSDKVC30WCS-A and I'd love to be able to replace this with a working one on my own. Is this doable, and if someone could point me to an identical (or equivalent) transformer, that would be greatly appreciated.

Additionally, could someone confirm if this is or isn't dimmable? It is allegedly, but from the posts here I understand that the driver may or may not allow this.

The fixture in question looks like this:

Fixture

The original LED driver went bust and a capacitor exploded, So im looking for a replacement. This one has rhe correct outputs as the original for warm and cool control etc. I think the voltage and everything is fine ? The output seems to be lower but i guess it will just drive the light slightly less bright? I appreciate any help thanks

Hello, I managed to broke diffuser that is supposed to go inside the housing (need a little bit of bending to get in that's how I broke it). Store is not selling replacements so I thought of making my own, which material would be best suited for it?

https://i.imgur.com/0wHzwRl.jpeg

Thank you for the help

I have an LED strip attached to the back of my TV, whenever I move my eyes I can see the color change to green or blue, it’s weird. Seems like I can see it, my family doesn’t see a thing.

I bought two of these LED TV strips that are automatically synchronized with the picture on the screen.

They come with LED2023-24KEY remote, to which the LED strip does not react in any way.
Installed a brand-new battery and tried to pair it with the strip in various ways without luck:

- Pressing and holding the lock button while turning on the strip
- Pressing and holding the lock button with the strip turned on/off
- Pressing and holding the on button
- Pressing 5 times in rows the LOCK button
- Holding both speed + / speed -

Nothing works. After continuous holding the ON button or Lock button, the remote starts lighting continuously red (the small control red LED on the top of the remote).

Any idea how to make it work? Any ideas are appreciated.

This is the same printed manual I have in the box of the device:

https://manuals.plus/tecphile/led2023-24key-wireless-controller-manual

And yes, I tried pressing the lock button for 5 seconds after 20 seconds of powering on.

https://preview.redd.it/ku656cu88k7e1.jpg?width=1920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be64554b835193ccc0362d56b864ba9c682659b0

I'm using COB LED strips, each one is 16 inches long, and there's twelve strips. Three of the strips aren't working. I replaced one and the new one isn't working either. Two of the non working strips are on the same shelf, one is on a different shelf.

I got the strips and PSU from AliExpress (I know), but I'm really hoping that I can make these work.

LED strip: https://imgur.com/a/cob-RMH3mVv

PSU: https://imgur.com/a/psu-kiO6hL0 (300w 24v)

Any suggestions? I've triple checked the wiring on everything and it's all good

Hello, I'm a bit of a LED scrub and need help with a question. I intend to run smart LED strips with WLED atop a series of bookcases stacked against my wall. I want to power the strips from the corner of the room in between two of the bookcases, or in other words, not at the start of the series of strips, in the middle. To do this I will use a splitter at the power source to power both sides of the wall.
My question is will this cause a break in continuity and treat each side of the wall as a separate strip, or will it recognize the two sides as one because they are going through the same chip?

I apologize if I'm doing a poor job explaining my situation. Here is a mock up image to hopefully clarify my question.

https://preview.redd.it/4ppk76fblj7e1.png?width=467&format=png&auto=webp&s=5b7ebb684a4efca870ba0f4af0aae3f391e71b59

I'd like to install some under-cabinet LED lights for my kitchen, but I'm not really sure how to go about doing this.

Ideally I would like to install them in my kitchen here with a thin continuous strip of LEDs attached to the bottom of the upper cabinets, all the way against the back wall (red line), getting power from an outlet that I will change to be a switch or switch/out combo (blue box), and hardwired in, probably with some kind of cord cover going over the wires (yellow line).

(When I lived someplace else I had used a plug-in type, but that had the standard config with the refrigerator at the end of the counter so I could run the cords beyond the edge and plug into a hidden Outlet behind it. That's not really an option here because of the cabinet configuration and I don't want to have a lot of extra wires and power bricks hanging in the kitchen)

My off the cuff thinking was getting some kind of fixed metal diffuser strip like this to attach to the bottom of the cabinets, using something like this or this for the actual lighting, hardwiring it into a switch like this or this and covering the dangling cord with something like this

Only small issue it the space under the microwave, where I would either need to have an inset a little higher up and turn the corner or just try to find some of those diffuser strips in a slightly longer size so I can completely bridge the gap (red line) and have it screwed in on the cabinet's either side.

(I'm not looking for anything with unusual colors or modes, just be able to dim the lights, but is there any way to do this while still preserving at least one plug in the outlet?)

But I have no experience with this kind of thing so what are your recommendations in terms of parts/procedure?

• Is this everything I need or is there something else and aniliary?

• Is it possible to have the strip lights wired directly into the outlet, or do I need some kind of additional power supply box that I would have to find a way to also mount under the cabinets?

• Can I just swap the outlet with one of the selected dimmer switches, or do I need to modify it in some way to be able to safely run the lights?

• Etc

I need one that when both grounds are applied it causes all the LEDs to illuminate. The bulb is designed typically for high/low beam usage so that when one is activated the other is off. I need to be able to burn the low or the high and low at the same time. Any one knows of a bulb that will allow this?

Here's the site the QR goes to

Sorry if this is really basic I feel like I should be able to understand it but I'm very tired and would like to know if I should be concerned about anything, especially for safety.

(If contexts helps: I plan to fasten this along the back rungs of a PVC pipe shelf, facing a UV tapestry. I did order this off Temu for a couple bucks, since I was told it was safer to use UV LED strips facing away from your eyes than UV light bulbs.)

I installed 5 pendant lights and each has one of these drivers. 3 of them are now flashing and these drivers appear to be the cause. I think part of the problem is these are on a dimmer and they are not dimmable as claimed. Can I find a dimmable replacement driver? Also can I replace all 5 with one dimmable driver?

Hi, So recently my LEDs havent been working at all and i didnt know why. My dad changed the remote battery but now the only colors that show are red, green and blue. The flash and fade buttons also work so i know the other colors still exist, but their buttons wont work. Is something wrong with my remote? How do i fix this?

(BTW i dont have a link since i bought it like 3 years ago from a random store.)